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Shaft bearing and SPI seals

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  • Naegels Patrick
    Hi Ian and Judy, The faster method to pull these out, is to pierce metal circle inside seal thanks to an awl (long sharpened piece of metal ). Use it with a
    Message 1 of 1 , Jun 8, 2004
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      Hi Ian and Judy,

      The faster method to pull these out, is to pierce metal circle
      inside seal thanks to an awl (long sharpened piece of metal ). Use
      it with a hammer and hit the awl firmly one or two time until
      pierced.

      Do it on each side of the shaft. Then screw on long screw into each
      holes (type self-tapping + Phillips is the best). These screws must
      be at least 6' long, but rather thin. Give screws some turns, just
      to make it firm holding.

      Pull on both screw heads with good pliers to extract seals. The
      first one (external) is the hardest. Second and last are easier. By
      this method, it's a 10' job.

      TIP : to put seals back, do not hesitate to fill seals with TEFLON
      grease, inside and outside. Have on board a metal tube with a
      diameter just smaller than seals. Position seal around the shaft,
      lightly pushed in transmission hole. Then put the metal tube on it
      and hit it gently with a hammer. Avoid mainly to push seal twisted,
      only straight. Damaged seal lips could really cut short assembly
      life.

      Harder is propeller extraction. Of cause, use Autoprop extraction
      tools, but this is often not sufficient. Over and above that you
      have to "sound" (hit) propeller gently with a hammer around the
      shaft when extraction tool is under tension. If this is not working,
      you have to use a blowtorch , but a big one. Hobby model is
      unfortunately not powerful enough. Take care, because when propeller
      released, it could promptly fall down, and damage blades. Secure it
      by any way.

      To avoid this blocking problem, I apply a thin film of Teflon grease
      before reassembling propeller.

      To clean propeller of sea concretions, just apply acid with a brush
      (for instance battery acid or hydrochloric acid 20%) and wait … It
      works alone. However avoid to use to much acid on SPURR moorings
      breaker, because there are 2 TEFLON (?) seals which do not like this
      treatment.

      In brief : dismantle propeller, SPURR, change bearing and seals,
      drain transmission oil + reassembling and oil refill takes me
      usually less than 2 hours.

      TIP : buy a metric 36 wrench. Impossible to find out of Europe and
      even not easy to find there. Necessary to remove oil drain bolt.

      If you see emulsion in oil tank in engine room, don't worry too
      much, you can always use your engine, but at 1800 revolutions. Try
      to haul out next call.

      All the best

      Patrick Naegels – Caramel – SM2000 - #329
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