Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

1122Re: Annual Haul Out

Expand Messages
  • Willem J. Kroes
    May 1, 2004
    • 0 Attachment
      Hi Gary,

      Your description of replacing the seals from the prop shaft bushing
      is very clear. Thank you very much!

      One question remains: how to place the seals. Do I have to place 2
      seals in such a manner that these prevent water coming in and the
      third seal turned so it will prevent oil leaking out?


      Willem J. Kroes

      Santorin 69 "Kavanga"
      ---- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@y...>
      > Jan 24, 2004
      > Hi Stephan:
      > Sorry to be so slow to answer: I am a new (and first time boat
      > although I am a FAA certified aircraft mechanic and am used to
      > turning a wrench or two). We have had our Amel SM Hull #335 since
      > July 2003. Our first haul out was at the 1 & 1/2 year mark, having
      > been in Caribbean waters for about 9 months. The bottom was in
      > shape but because I wasn't sure how long to expect it to stay that
      > way we did the bottom paint. Amel recommends a hard bottom paint
      > (thus I believe this is a non-ablative type paint that you must
      > periodically). In checking with multiple sources the concensis was
      > that if you sail alot then an ablative paint works well because the
      > motion stirs things up and provides exposure of new paint. If you
      > don't sail a great deal (me, only about 4 months a year) then the
      > hard paint is better but must be periodically scrubbed. I chose
      > Petit Trinidad SR (a hard Slime Retardant paint) based on
      > with various yards in the Caribbean. It took 5 gallons to put 2
      > coats on everything and a third coat at the water line down about
      > inches (This is reportedly what the Moorings boats do). The paint
      > was about $155 USD in Grenada where I had it done. All they did
      > scuff sand the existing paint to provide tooth adhesion and put the
      > new paint on with a roller. It has held up well for 14 months now
      > and I did one scrubbing using 3M pads and two scuba tanks of air
      > (about a 5 hour job). At our haul out for the hurricane season the
      > bottom looked great. It is evidently imparative not to put a hard
      > paint over an ablative paint. I am told that it will flake off.
      > I have replaced the zincs twice. We are only in marinas hooked to
      > shore power for brief periods and when the zincs are about 50% gone
      > replaced them. Joel tells me that they may go in a few months or
      > last a year or more based on where the boat is and various marina
      > power scenarios etc. I guess I am about average at 15 months per
      > set.
      > I just changed the seals and the bronze prop shaft bushing with
      > 400 hrs on the engine. There was no evidence of oil leakage at the
      > prop shaft. The oil was clean and there was very little wear on the
      > bushing. I suspect they would have easily gone to 1000 hours.
      > The procedure for changing the seals and busing isn't documented
      > anywhere so I thought I might tell you about my experience. I
      > purchased new "O" rings based on the drawing from Amel but my boat
      > has the rope cutter insalled and the "O" rings on the drain plug
      > a different size than depicted on the plain drain plug drawing.
      > chandlery in Nanny Cay had the correct size "O" ring. I don't know
      > what size "O" ring I ended up with but it would be worth checking
      > with Amel for the correct size for you application. The "0" rings
      > the bushing were supplied on mine spare from Amel. Exactly 8.5
      > liters of very clean oil drained from the drive and I used a
      > to get all that I could out of the bottom of the drive as described
      > by Amel. I used some penetrant oil the night before on all the set
      > screws that hold the rope cutter in place and they all cam out
      > easily. The various spacers and cutter came off the shaft and the
      > bushing slid out very nicely. This left the three seals in place.
      > There may be various ways to remove the seals but what we did is
      > drilled two small holes on each side of the seal, screwed a sheet
      > metal screw into the two holes and used a slide hammer connected to
      > the screws to pull the seal out. Then we drilled two more holes in
      > the next seal and repeated this process two more times. The seals
      > came out easily using this method. Prying etc would have been a
      > bigger chore. Some people collapse the seals with a punch but I
      > afraid this might damage the prop shaft. The new seals slid in and
      > were tapped into place using an appropriately size piece of pipe
      > about 14 inches long. I will measure this next time I am on the
      > and post the dimensions because the size must be quite exact to fit
      > the seal and it must be long enough to extend beyond the end of the
      > prop shaft. Anyone doing this job themselves might want to put
      > together a tool kit that included this pipe (seal driver). Once the
      > seals are in place the bushing was inserted and pushed in so that
      > most aft portion is flush with the drive housing. Then all the
      > stuff (cutter and spacers, prop etc) were re-assembled and the
      > was filled with 8.5 liters of 15/40 Diesel Engine Oil. I used
      > Lanicote on the prop shaft becuase I understand it will prevent
      > dissimilar metal corrosion.
      > When I removed the prop originally (which we did for the Autoprop
      > recall) we had a very difficult time. We had the Amel prop puller
      > and actually stretched the bolts to breaking once. All the tapping
      > and pulling we exerted didn't seem to help. Many folks gathered
      > around in the yard to offer a host of suggestions but finally what
      > work almost instantaneously was tapping around the circumference of
      > the prop hub on the forward aspect of the hub. There wasn't a spec
      > of corrosion or anything else holding the prop in place, just a
      > tight tapered shaft and Woodruff key.
      > I just had the fresh water pump fail. Fortunately I had a spare
      > promptly installed it. Upon disassembly of the original pump I
      > the pump housing, bronze impeller and motor shaft all pristine. A
      > plain steel Woodruff key was used by the manufacturer and it was
      > completely corroded away so that the impeller just spun on the
      > shaft. I have tried un-successfully to find stainless steel or
      > bronze Woodruff Keys. I am going to manufature my own from
      > steel. Seems odd though that they would put a mild steel key in a
      > pump like this.
      > I have changed the finger zinc in the Onan genset once and it was
      > about 50% gone. I was able to obtain several more from my local
      > dealer here in the US.
      > I have ordered the water heater zincs from West Marine who had to
      > order them from Plastimo. It has been six weeks and I am still
      > waiting. West Marine/Plastimo wanted about $50.00 each for them.
      > didn't price them from Amel because the one I originally bought
      > Amel was the incorrect size. I only discovered that after the
      > job of opening the water heater.
      > One other job that is important as far as preventive maintenance is
      > winch overhauls. I ordered the book from Lewmar and an overhaul
      > kit. Mostly you need the Lewmar grease, some plastic buckets to
      > to soak and scrub the various parts in some mineral spirits, a soft
      > bristled brush to help wash with and a few small brushes to apply
      > grease with. All of our winches were in great shape after 1.5
      > including a trans-atlantic. Lewmar says they should be overhauled
      > times per season. If you did that with 11 winches you would spend
      > your entire season overhauling winches. It took me about 1 to 2
      > hours per winch to overhaul them based on the size of the winch.
      > is fairly straight forward (just remember for sure how you took
      > apart). The only winches that showed any signs of distress were
      > those on the main mast since they have so much greater sea water
      > exposure. I will plan to do them twice per year from now on. The
      > others will do nicely being done once a year based on my use.
      > I haven't yet tackled the bow thruster work. If there is anybody
      > there that could give details of the process it would be greatly
      > appreciated.
      > Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Sea Cow Bay, Tortola
      > --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Stephan Regulinski"
      > <stephreg@y...> wrote:
      > > We are planning a haul out in the next several months. Can
      > > advise on basic bottom paint stuff?
      > >
      > > 1. How much bottom paint should we plan on buying?
      > >
      > > 2. How many coats are applied?
      > >
      > > 3. Is a prep coat of something required before bottom paint?
      > >
      > > 4. What surface prep is required?
      > >
      > > Since we will not be in an Amel yard, I want to know how it is
      > > done, not what the local guy thinks!
      > >
      > > I also understand that I should service the bow thruster, change
      > the
      > > seals and oil in the sail drive and check/replace the zincs. Am
      > > missing anything important?
      > >
      > > Thanks for your help,
      > >
      > > Stephan G. Regulinski
      > > S/V Delos (SMM #303)
    • Show all 23 messages in this topic