- Well Quentin - I m pleased that you appreciate my contributions - I hope the info benefits a number of folks - Thank You for your comments. My main reason forMessage 1 of 1 , May 2, 2002View SourceWell Quentin - I'm pleased that you appreciate my contributions - I hope the info benefits a number of folks - Thank You for your comments.
My main reason for submitting the information I've collected and processed into ideas - is I cannot follow up on all aspects. The fine folks on this Adobe discussion group (numbering 100 now) coupled with similar groups give me a wide audience to "spread the word".
RE: AAC and Psyllium - Hopefully among the readership some bright minds will volunteer to assist and check out some of the better ideas - do some testing - get some exact pricing and let us all know what they find. In short, I have the capacity to come up with ideas from my research - but moneywise - timewise and otherwise - I don't have the capacity to check out all the angles myself - something about having to work and pay the bills - I suppose. I am however going to follow up on a few select areas.
RE: AAC - Autoclaved Aerated Concrete.
- AAC is available in many forms direct from the factory here in the U.S. or Mexico - pricing and availability can be determined with a few phone calls. The URLs in my AAC post lead to several AAC manufacturers.
As insulator panels (theoretically) the AAC panels could just be tilted up and screwed directly to the adobe wall with a retaining clip under the screw head (also could use spacers to create an air space between adobe and AAC - (if that were beneficial). The bottom of the AAC panel would need to rest on another material to keep from wicking moisture from the ground. Also, some sort of flashing on the top edge would be necessary - to keep water from pooling.
But, all in all the process for installing AAC panels would seem to be much less complicated and labor intensive - than applying stucco. Finally - just spray paint the AAC panel (could do that first - I suppose). (See next paragraph).
- I have found a product that could eliminate putting stucco on AAC - or other materials. I have used a paint by Valspar - a Masonry / Stucco paint. I believe it could be directly applied to AAC and other surfaces. It is a water based exterior elastomeric latex. The label says it will "withstand a 98 MPH wind driven rain". So - I painted shower walls with it (bathtub - wall area). The walls were a vinyl coating of a tile backer board with painted on texturizing. It doesn't run, fade or do anything bad - "just like water off a ducks back" - works just fine. It has a 20 year warranty when used on Masonry or Stucco. Less than $20.00 a gallon in small quantities. Got it at Lowes.
- I may be incorrect about AAC being 100% closed cell - it may be a mix - if that is possible. The air cells are very small - made by the hydrogen gas produced by the aluminum powder reaction when in the autoclave steam heat / pressure. Some interconnecting cell pathways may go all the way through the material.
Later - Joe Greene
Quentin Wilson wrote:
More wow, Joe.
AAC does have some promise. The million dollars comes from building 2000 homes that save $500 in construction or heating costs. Or 500 homes that save $2000. Or 100 homes that save $10,000. Other combinations work.
I am working on a project currently called the Compressed
Sustainable Insulation Project. One of our sister institutions will be looking at fly ash both as an insulator and as an admixture for concrete so I have some interest in its use.
Right now, rigid, nail-on insulation two inches thick costs us about $.66 per square foot. It is rated at R-11 for the benefit of anyone who thinks there is any significance to that system of measurement. All we do is lean it up against the wall and whack in a couple of 16d nails just to hold it where we want it. When the wire for the stucco goes on we nail thoroughly at 16-inch intervals horizontally and vertically using pole barn nails or very long screws, a process we do for stucco netting whether or not there is insulation underneath. Rigid board in 4' x 8' sheets is scored length wise at 12, 16, 24 and 32-inch intervals so it easy to break over our knees. Other cuts are made with a utility knife. Therefore, the installation cost is almost negligible so overall cost is about .70 to $.75 per square foot. That is what we have to compete with. Homeowners will tolerate a 10- to 20% upcharge for "green items" if they are trained to think righteously.
Right now, in most areas of the state, New Mexico wants to see insulation of the bankrupt systems R-11 rating. To achieve that with AAC we might need 3 to 4-inches. If it weighs 1/5 of concrete we are looking at 750 pounds per 100 square feet of wall.
Fortunately, some places like Texas don't yet have a clue that adobe should be insulated.
On the other hand, AAC could certainly be textured and colored during manufacture thereby saving the cost of stucco which is about $2.50 to $4.00 per sq ft.
In general, I hate working with anything that has Portland cement in it, at least in the raw state because it eats up my hands. Adobe dries them out for a day or two but then my oil production ramps up and I can tolerate working with adobe all the time.
I am going to put my money on the psyllium approach so we can enrich India and use natural materials. But I can see a whole lot of possibilities for AAC. But I am near 59 years. If you are younger, then you have to do the legwork and mental gymnastics to get a system up and running. I have built solar adobe homes for 25 years and love to write big checks.
I do know a man who has made a million or two or three stuffing mud into forms and drying it in the sun. He calls it adobe bricks.
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