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Re: Expected Results

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  • eddy_sunnycoast
    Thanks for your response Russel, I ll run one of my batteries flat and see what happens. Regards, Eddy.
    Message 1 of 9 , Jan 30, 2013
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      Thanks for your response Russel, I'll run one of my batteries flat and see what happens.

      Regards,
      Eddy.

      --- In adamsmotor@yahoogroups.com, Russel Prier wrote:
      >
      > Hi Eddy,
      >
      > To answer your question accurately would be near to
      > impossible. One would have to know a lot about the setup and
      > all the parameters pertaining to it. OU is possible and
      > some have gotten 8 x more out than in some much more than
      > that but most less than that. It is not just about voltage
      > but usable power. Start with a flat 7AH batt (12.00 votls
      > is flat) use the output to charge this battery, and a fully
      > charged one driving the motor and run the drive battery
      > until it is down to 12 volts. You should be able to get the
      > battery being charged up to around 14 volts and after
      > resting it for 1/2 an hour it should still show 12.7 or more
      > volts to be fully charged. If you can fully charge several
      > flat batteries in one drive battery charge you are getting
      > more out than you are putting in. This is just one way of
      > measuring COP. I am not sure if it is the best way.
      >
      > All the best
      > Russ P
      >
      > On 30/01/2013 4:14 p.m., eddy_sunnycoast wrote:
      > >
      > > Hi Guys,
      > >
      > > I've been tinkering with an Adams type motor for about 4
      > > months, reading as much as I can, gathering parts, etc and
      > > was wondering what results I should expect from a 4 coil,
      > > 12 neo magnet system, using a 12v 7ah battery, hall sensor
      > > and TIP36C transistor. My motor spins freely, as its a
      > > wooden rotor mounted on an old VCR head assembly. 2 tiny
      > > drive coils spin the rotor at 2000rpm and 2 x 2 piggyback
      > > coils produce 42v DC.
      > >
      > > Looking forward to your comments and suggestions.
      > >
      > > Eddy.
      > >
      > >
      >
    • eddy_sunnycoast
      Hi again Russ and anyone else willing to help, I have to admit from the outset that I m a novice at electronics and pulse motors, all my past working life was
      Message 2 of 9 , Feb 4, 2013
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        Hi again Russ and anyone else willing to help,

        I have to admit from the outset that I'm a novice at electronics and pulse motors, all my past working life was dedicated to designing and developing commercial computer software, but I'm enjoying the electronics challenge. I mentioned this in the hope that you'll be kind to me as I haven't progressed very far in reading/understanding circuit diagrams.

        How many times do you go 2 steps forward and then take a huge leap backwards. During the past week I've seen 5 hall sensor go up in a white puff of smoke. They work well for at least 5-10 minutes, everything runs fine, then I'll restart the motor and puff, another hall sensor bites the dust. They are rated at 24v and I'm still using a 12v 7ah battery. I've gone back to a glass reed switch, while its quite robust, it's about 300rpm slower (no matter how much I try to tune it) and the efficiency has decreased. When I was using a hall sensor the motor was a self starter. Can anyone suggest another way of sending a pulse to the drive coils ? I've been trying to read up on a signal or function generator, would that do the same job ?

        Thanks for your help,
        Eddy.


        --- In adamsmotor@yahoogroups.com, Russel Prier wrote:
        >
        > Hi Eddy,
        >
        > To answer your question accurately would be near to
        > impossible. One would have to know a lot about the setup and
        > all the parameters pertaining to it. OU is possible and
        > some have gotten 8 x more out than in some much more than
        > that but most less than that. It is not just about voltage
        > but usable power. Start with a flat 7AH batt (12.00 votls
        > is flat) use the output to charge this battery, and a fully
        > charged one driving the motor and run the drive battery
        > until it is down to 12 volts. You should be able to get the
        > battery being charged up to around 14 volts and after
        > resting it for 1/2 an hour it should still show 12.7 or more
        > volts to be fully charged. If you can fully charge several
        > flat batteries in one drive battery charge you are getting
        > more out than you are putting in. This is just one way of
        > measuring COP. I am not sure if it is the best way.
        >
        > All the best
        > Russ P
        >
        > On 30/01/2013 4:14 p.m., eddy_sunnycoast wrote:
        > >
        > > Hi Guys,
        > >
        > > I've been tinkering with an Adams type motor for about 4
        > > months, reading as much as I can, gathering parts, etc and
        > > was wondering what results I should expect from a 4 coil,
        > > 12 neo magnet system, using a 12v 7ah battery, hall sensor
        > > and TIP36C transistor. My motor spins freely, as its a
        > > wooden rotor mounted on an old VCR head assembly. 2 tiny
        > > drive coils spin the rotor at 2000rpm and 2 x 2 piggyback
        > > coils produce 42v DC.
        > >
        > > Looking forward to your comments and suggestions.
        > >
        > > Eddy.
        > >
        > >
        >
      • Russel Prier
        Hi Eddy, I am a novice to but I will try to give you some help and others may jump in with better info. Hall sensors area very low current device and will not
        Message 3 of 9 , Feb 5, 2013
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          Hi Eddy,

          I am a novice to but I will try to give you some help and others may jump in with better info.  Hall sensors area very low current device and will not normally handle in inrush current when you switch a coil on.  I have been wanting to set up a rotary encoder with a plc so I can progam switch on and switch off pionts for my drive circuit and te same for the energy recovery circuit.  The output transistors of the plc need to drive bigger transistors or mosfets or IGBTs and preferably through opto isolators so there is no chance of blowing the output stages of the plc.  A signal generator is not a an easy way to drive such a motor because the timing needs to be locked into the position of the rotor in relation to the magnets and coils.  The reason you have a slower running motor with the read switch is because either the on time of time is not correct or the timing itself is wrong in relation to the the magnets and coils but probably both.  Hall sensors are good for timing but need to be used to drive a high current mosfet or transistor.  Mosfets are easier to use but are quite sensitive to static electricity on there gate therefore blow up quite readily to.  Also if you are getting radiant or Aetheric energy they tend to break down over a period of time.  I suspect it is because this form of power is similar to static electricity in some of the way it works and so may build up on the case of a mosfet and break down the gate.  That is just my thoery though.

          All the best
          Russel

          On 5/02/2013 8:45 p.m., eddy_sunnycoast wrote:
           


          Hi again Russ and anyone else willing to help,

          I have to admit from the outset that I'm a novice at electronics and pulse motors, all my past working life was dedicated to designing and developing commercial computer software, but I'm enjoying the electronics challenge. I mentioned this in the hope that you'll be kind to me as I haven't progressed very far in reading/understanding circuit diagrams.

          How many times do you go 2 steps forward and then take a huge leap backwards. During the past week I've seen 5 hall sensor go up in a white puff of smoke. They work well for at least 5-10 minutes, everything runs fine, then I'll restart the motor and puff, another hall sensor bites the dust. They are rated at 24v and I'm still using a 12v 7ah battery. I've gone back to a glass reed switch, while its quite robust, it's about 300rpm slower (no matter how much I try to tune it) and the efficiency has decreased. When I was using a hall sensor the motor was a self starter. Can anyone suggest another way of sending a pulse to the drive coils ? I've been trying to read up on a signal or function generator, would that do the same job ?

          Thanks for your help,
          Eddy.

          --- In adamsmotor@yahoogroups.com, Russel Prier wrote:
          >
          > Hi Eddy,
          >
          > To answer your question accurately would be near to
          > impossible. One would have to know a lot about the setup and
          > all the parameters pertaining to it. OU is possible and
          > some have gotten 8 x more out than in some much more than
          > that but most less than that. It is not just about voltage
          > but usable power. Start with a flat 7AH batt (12.00 votls
          > is flat) use the output to charge this battery, and a fully
          > charged one driving the motor and run the drive battery
          > until it is down to 12 volts. You should be able to get the
          > battery being charged up to around 14 volts and after
          > resting it for 1/2 an hour it should still show 12.7 or more
          > volts to be fully charged. If you can fully charge several
          > flat batteries in one drive battery charge you are getting
          > more out than you are putting in. This is just one way of
          > measuring COP. I am not sure if it is the best way.
          >
          > All the best
          > Russ P
          >
          > On 30/01/2013 4:14 p.m., eddy_sunnycoast wrote:
          > >
          > > Hi Guys,
          > >
          > > I've been tinkering with an Adams type motor for about 4
          > > months, reading as much as I can, gathering parts, etc and
          > > was wondering what results I should expect from a 4 coil,
          > > 12 neo magnet system, using a 12v 7ah battery, hall sensor
          > > and TIP36C transistor. My motor spins freely, as its a
          > > wooden rotor mounted on an old VCR head assembly. 2 tiny
          > > drive coils spin the rotor at 2000rpm and 2 x 2 piggyback
          > > coils produce 42v DC.
          > >
          > > Looking forward to your comments and suggestions.
          > >
          > > Eddy.
          > >
          > >
          >


          -- 
          Russel Prier
          MANAGING DIRECTOR
          TAURANGA PRODUCTION TURNING LTD
          
          Ph:  +64 7 541 1578
          Fax: +64 7 541 3463
          Mob:  027 689 5251
          Email:  russelp@...
        • Colin Jamieson
          Hi Eddy, go to this link http://www.totallyamped.net/adams/  and you will find useful information on designing switching circuit using hall sensors. I use
          Message 4 of 9 , Feb 5, 2013
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            Hi Eddy, go to this link http://www.totallyamped.net/adams/  and you will find useful information on designing switching circuit using hall sensors. I use optical switch and also found that the higher speeds are not always more efficient, cheers Colin

            --- On Tue, 5/2/13, eddy_sunnycoast <t3ddyb34r@...> wrote:

            From: eddy_sunnycoast <t3ddyb34r@...>
            Subject: [adamsmotor] Re: Expected Results
            To: adamsmotor@yahoogroups.com
            Date: Tuesday, 5, February, 2013, 8:45 PM


            Hi again Russ and anyone else willing to help,

            I have to admit from the outset that I'm a novice at electronics and pulse motors, all my past working life was dedicated to designing and developing commercial computer software, but I'm enjoying the electronics challenge. I mentioned this in the hope that you'll be kind to me as I haven't progressed very far in reading/understanding circuit diagrams.

            How many times do you go 2 steps forward and then take a huge leap backwards. During the past week I've seen 5 hall sensor go up in a white puff of smoke. They work well for at least 5-10 minutes, everything runs fine, then I'll restart the motor and puff, another hall sensor bites the dust. They are rated at 24v and I'm still using a 12v 7ah battery. I've gone back to a glass reed switch, while its quite robust, it's about 300rpm slower (no matter how much I try to tune it) and the efficiency has decreased. When I was using a hall sensor the motor was a self starter. Can anyone suggest another way of sending a pulse to the drive coils ? I've been trying to read up on a signal or function generator, would that do the same job ?

            Thanks for your help,
            Eddy.


            --- In adamsmotor@yahoogroups.com, Russel Prier  wrote:
            >
            > Hi Eddy,
            >
            > To answer your question accurately would be near to
            > impossible. One would have to know a lot about the setup and
            > all the parameters pertaining to it.  OU is possible and
            > some have gotten 8 x more out than in some much more than
            > that but most less than that.  It is not just about voltage
            > but usable power..  Start with a flat 7AH batt (12.00 votls
            > is flat) use the output to charge this battery, and a fully
            > charged one driving the motor and run the drive battery
            > until it is down to 12 volts.  You should be able to get the
            > battery being charged up to around 14 volts and after
            > resting it for 1/2 an hour it should still show 12.7 or more
            > volts to be fully charged.  If you can fully charge several
            > flat batteries in one drive battery charge you are getting
            > more out than you are putting in.  This is just one way of
            > measuring COP. I am not sure if it is the best way.
            >
            > All the best
            > Russ P
            >
            > On 30/01/2013 4:14 p.m., eddy_sunnycoast wrote:
            > >
            > > Hi Guys,
            > >
            > > I've been tinkering with an Adams type motor for about 4
            > > months, reading as much as I can, gathering parts, etc and
            > > was wondering what results I should expect from a 4 coil,
            > > 12 neo magnet system, using a 12v 7ah battery, hall sensor
            > > and TIP36C transistor. My motor spins freely, as its a
            > > wooden rotor mounted on an old VCR head assembly. 2 tiny
            > > drive coils spin the rotor at 2000rpm and 2 x 2 piggyback
            > > coils produce 42v DC.
            > >
            > > Looking forward to your comments and suggestions.
            > >
            > > Eddy.
            > >
            > >
            >




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          • eddy_sunnycoast
            Thanks Russel and Colin for your response, The Totally Amped web site has been my guide and fig1 (apart from the separate timing disc) is how my motor is
            Message 5 of 9 , Feb 5, 2013
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              Thanks Russel and Colin for your response,

              The Totally Amped web site has been my guide and fig1 (apart from the separate timing disc) is how my motor is setup. The comment "Fig 1- This first circuit was posted by "Tropes" on the Overunity.com forum. It is a very simple and workable circuit, but it is very prone to instability and component damage.". Yep, that's what I'm getting. I'll keep reading.

              I do have an opto switch and will look at how I can incorporate it into my motor.

              Thanks again,
              Eddy.

              --- In adamsmotor@yahoogroups.com, Russel Prier wrote:
              >
              > Hi Eddy,
              >
              > To answer your question accurately would be near to
              > impossible. One would have to know a lot about the setup and
              > all the parameters pertaining to it. OU is possible and
              > some have gotten 8 x more out than in some much more than
              > that but most less than that. It is not just about voltage
              > but usable power. Start with a flat 7AH batt (12.00 votls
              > is flat) use the output to charge this battery, and a fully
              > charged one driving the motor and run the drive battery
              > until it is down to 12 volts. You should be able to get the
              > battery being charged up to around 14 volts and after
              > resting it for 1/2 an hour it should still show 12.7 or more
              > volts to be fully charged. If you can fully charge several
              > flat batteries in one drive battery charge you are getting
              > more out than you are putting in. This is just one way of
              > measuring COP. I am not sure if it is the best way.
              >
              > All the best
              > Russ P
              >
              > On 30/01/2013 4:14 p.m., eddy_sunnycoast wrote:
              > >
              > > Hi Guys,
              > >
              > > I've been tinkering with an Adams type motor for about 4
              > > months, reading as much as I can, gathering parts, etc and
              > > was wondering what results I should expect from a 4 coil,
              > > 12 neo magnet system, using a 12v 7ah battery, hall sensor
              > > and TIP36C transistor. My motor spins freely, as its a
              > > wooden rotor mounted on an old VCR head assembly. 2 tiny
              > > drive coils spin the rotor at 2000rpm and 2 x 2 piggyback
              > > coils produce 42v DC.
              > >
              > > Looking forward to your comments and suggestions.
              > >
              > > Eddy.
              > >
              > >
              >
            • Colin Jamieson
              Here is this file are some good and useful info on hall circuits, cheers Colin ... From: eddy_sunnycoast Subject: [adamsmotor] Re:
              Message 6 of 9 , Feb 5, 2013
              Here is this file are some good and useful info on hall circuits, cheers Colin

              --- On Wed, 6/2/13, eddy_sunnycoast <t3ddyb34r@...> wrote:

              From: eddy_sunnycoast <t3ddyb34r@...>
              Subject: [adamsmotor] Re: Expected Results
              To: adamsmotor@yahoogroups.com
              Date: Wednesday, 6, February, 2013, 10:52 AM

              Thanks Russel and Colin for your response,

              The Totally Amped web site has been my guide and fig1 (apart from the separate timing disc) is how my motor is setup. The comment "Fig 1- This first circuit was posted by "Tropes" on the Overunity.com forum. It is a very simple and workable circuit, but it is very prone to instability and component damage.". Yep, that's what I'm getting. I'll keep reading.

              I do have an opto switch and will look at how I can incorporate it into my motor.

              Thanks again,
              Eddy.

              --- In adamsmotor@yahoogroups.com, Russel Prier  wrote:
              >
              > Hi Eddy,
              >
              > To answer your question accurately would be near to
              > impossible. One would have to know a lot about the setup and
              > all the parameters pertaining to it.  OU is possible and
              > some have gotten 8 x more out than in some much more than
              > that but most less than that.  It is not just about voltage
              > but usable power.  Start with a flat 7AH batt (12.00 votls
              > is flat) use the output to charge this battery, and a fully
              > charged one driving the motor and run the drive battery
              > until it is down to 12 volts.  You should be able to get the
              > battery being charged up to around 14 volts and after
              > resting it for 1/2 an hour it should still show 12.7 or more
              > volts to be fully charged.  If you can fully charge several
              > flat batteries in one drive battery charge you are getting
              > more out than you are putting in.  This is just one way of
              > measuring COP. I am not sure if it is the best way.
              >
              > All the best
              > Russ P
              >
              > On 30/01/2013 4:14 p.m., eddy_sunnycoast wrote:
              > >
              > > Hi Guys,
              > >
              > > I've been tinkering with an Adams type motor for about 4
              > > months, reading as much as I can, gathering parts, etc and
              > > was wondering what results I should expect from a 4 coil,
              > > 12 neo magnet system, using a 12v 7ah battery, hall sensor
              > > and TIP36C transistor. My motor spins freely, as its a
              > > wooden rotor mounted on an old VCR head assembly. 2 tiny
              > > drive coils spin the rotor at 2000rpm and 2 x 2 piggyback
              > > coils produce 42v DC.
              > >
              > > Looking forward to your comments and suggestions.
              > >
              > > Eddy.
              > >
              > >
              >



              ------------------------------------

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            • eddy_sunnycoast
              Thanks Colin, it s got lots of interesting info, will print it out and digest it. Regards, Eddy.
              Message 7 of 9 , Feb 5, 2013
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                Thanks Colin, it's got lots of interesting info, will print it out and digest it.
                Regards,
                Eddy.


                --- In adamsmotor@yahoogroups.com, Colin Jamieson wrote:
                >
                > Here is this file are some good and useful info on hall circuits, cheers Colin
                >
                > --- On Wed, 6/2/13, eddy_sunnycoast wrote:
                >
                > From: eddy_sunnycoast
                > Subject: [adamsmotor] Re: Expected Results
                > To: adamsmotor@yahoogroups.com
                > Date: Wednesday, 6, February, 2013, 10:52 AM
                >
                > Thanks Russel and Colin for your response,
                >
                > The Totally Amped web site has been my guide and fig1 (apart from the separate timing disc) is how my motor is setup. The comment "Fig 1- This first circuit was posted by "Tropes" on the Overunity.com forum. It is a very simple and workable circuit, but it is very prone to instability and component damage.". Yep, that's what I'm getting. I'll keep reading.
                >
                > I do have an opto switch and will look at how I can incorporate it into my motor.
                >
                > Thanks again,
                > Eddy.
                >
                > --- In adamsmotor@yahoogroups.com, Russel Prier  wrote:
                > >
                > > Hi Eddy,
                > >
                > > To answer your question accurately would be near to
                > > impossible. One would have to know a lot about the setup and
                > > all the parameters pertaining to it.  OU is possible and
                > > some have gotten 8 x more out than in some much more than
                > > that but most less than that.  It is not just about voltage
                > > but usable power.  Start with a flat 7AH batt (12.00 votls
                > > is flat) use the output to charge this battery, and a fully
                > > charged one driving the motor and run the drive battery
                > > until it is down to 12 volts.  You should be able to get the
                > > battery being charged up to around 14 volts and after
                > > resting it for 1/2 an hour it should still show 12.7 or more
                > > volts to be fully charged.  If you can fully charge several
                > > flat batteries in one drive battery charge you are getting
                > > more out than you are putting in.  This is just one way of
                > > measuring COP. I am not sure if it is the best way.
                > >
                > > All the best
                > > Russ P
                > >
                > > On 30/01/2013 4:14 p.m., eddy_sunnycoast wrote:
                > > >
                > > > Hi Guys,
                > > >
                > > > I've been tinkering with an Adams type motor for about 4
                > > > months, reading as much as I can, gathering parts, etc and
                > > > was wondering what results I should expect from a 4 coil,
                > > > 12 neo magnet system, using a 12v 7ah battery, hall sensor
                > > > and TIP36C transistor. My motor spins freely, as its a
                > > > wooden rotor mounted on an old VCR head assembly. 2 tiny
                > > > drive coils spin the rotor at 2000rpm and 2 x 2 piggyback
                > > > coils produce 42v DC.
                > > >
                > > > Looking forward to your comments and suggestions.
                > > >
                > > > Eddy.
                > > >
                > > >
                > >
                >
                >
                >
                > ------------------------------------
                >
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                >
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