7845Re: [Weta-Trimarans] Standing rigging, shrouds, side stays
- Aug 23, 2014Bob Shirley and Robert S
I can not thank you enough for the huge help! I spent the day changing the mast cleats, using that occasion to add a new velcro with a belt on the mast as the previous one had been entirely eaten by salt (I know I am so luxurious, a belt!) found a new saddle at west marine, and ordered a new set of shrouds from my local rigger with a slightly larger diameter than the original. I also removed the two eyes at the bow (which were heavily rusted), and replaced it with a dyneema line with 8 knots going directly through the hull with nylon+metal washers. I should receive the shrouds middle of the week, and followed your advice of contacting Weta: Robert answered right away with the PDF. If anyone wants it and don't feel like bothering the weta guys, just mail me directly. Planning on doing the painful padeye transition over the next few days.
I could not sail because of my damaged shrouds (despite a perfect weather), but I used all the energy to make my next experience better! Would have been painful without you guy's knowledge.
My leeward stay is always super loose and I read it is the case for all trimarans, but in the big waves, it made the leeward ama move quite a bit. Is that normal? Should I tighten the stays one notch or will that rake the mast back too much?
Last question I promise, apologies everyone for the newbie spam, but I could not find a specific resource on the threads despite a word/photo search.
Saturday, August 23, 2014 2:31 PMI emailed Roger Kitchen and he sent me photos and directions. I recommend you do the same thing, but I will try to describe the process anyway.I was able to unscrew my old bolts and the nuts fell off. But if the nuts spin one will have to hack off the old bolt heads and punch the bolt through.Basically, one gets much longer bolts, say 3.5 or 4 inches. I used my skill saw with a steel cutting blade to square off the end of the bolt and below that narrow it significantly. Be sure you already have the nut on the bolt so it will clean up the threads when you back it off. Don't use the nylon locking nut you intend to finish the project with because the nylon can be damaged. Use a regular nut for cleaning up the threads. I then used fishing line that i put down through the hole and snagged with an unbent wire coat hangar through the transom port. Actually, I had to tape the coat hanger to a yard stick to make it long enough.Then one ties the fishing line around the narrowed part at the end of the bolt in such a manner that it will pull the bolt (w/ washer) through the hole. It is tricky getting the fishing line tied just right so the bolt will come up through the hole. I ended up using some tape to get it just right.Once one has the bolt up through the hole tighten a nylon locking nut down using pliers to hold the squared off bolt end. Once it is good and tight, hack off the bolt close to the nut, file and smooth.So one ends up with the bolt upside down with the head down inside the boat and the nut on top.It took me about 45 minutes to replace the 1st bolt, about 2 hrs to replace the 2nd one (grumble, grumble, grumble....) but I finally surmounted the learning curve and was able to replace the 3rd and 4th bolts in about 15 minutes.Good luck,Bob Shirley
Weta #147, Empress
Ventura CA.Saturday, August 23, 2014 1:51 PM
How to get the washers and nuts in there, Bob?