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5602Re: [Weta-Trimarans] Questions

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  • Geoffrey Clift
    Sep 4, 2013
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      'Preciate this Bruce.
      My confidence has been restored and as you say: can't wait to fly the kite out on the water.
      Geoff

      On 05/09/2013, at 1:43 PM, Bruce Fleming wrote:

       

      G’day, Geoffrey,

       

      I think you’re on the right track now, but thought I’d tap out some words for a minute and to review the key points.

       

      Just in case you weren’t yet clear what we’ve got here, this furling system is not a top-down system. It’s a traditional bottom furling system, updated with a continuous reel at the bottom.  Many Weta veterans enjoy this enhancement over the original Harken drum system. A few still love the original, and some don’t feel it needs to be changed.

       

      When you’re done with the setup and ready to sail, both the Tack and the Head grommets should be very close to the pins on the furling drum and the swivel.  The lines you refer to as “flying leads” are simply used to lash these corners of the sail to their corresponding furling system components. You’re right—the lashings will stop the luff line from twisting, since the torque caused by the reel at the bottom will transfer to the tack. The original Wetas had plastic shackles connecting the grommets on the sail to the pins on the furling hardware, but many of the veterans will tell you stories of those parts failing. The lashing line is light and strong, and even better, it’s adjustable. Wrap it with rigging tape when you’re done.

       

      Most will agree that the luff line seems very long. If you’re up for it, there’s not much to keep you from cutting it short and re-stitching the thimble into it.  Tying a bunch of figure-8 knots is simple, and since they are covered by the luff sleeve, nobody will see them. Out of sight…out of mind, now get on the water! No need to make a simple boat more complex.

       

      When you’ve shortened the luff line enough, and you’ve fine-tuned the luff tension with the lashing at either the tack or the head (better) you’ll have a screecher with a beautiful luff shape. If the luff line is too tight, you’ll probably see long horizontal wrinkles since the sail cloth is not tensioned enough, like a jib with not enough halyard tension. If the luff line is too loose, the sail cloth is getting too much tension and the wrinkles will run parallel to the luff like a Laser with too much Cunningham pulled on.

       

      Aloha,

       

      Bruce Fleming

      Akahele!, #276

      San Diego, California

       

      From: Weta-Trimarans@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Weta-Trimarans@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Geoffrey Clift
      Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 6:54 PM
      To: Weta-Trimarans@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [Weta-Trimarans] Questions

       

      Thanks everyone for the feedback on mast stepping. I am glad this mast stepping business may just be a question of improving technique. I often get this comment.

      Re length of Genny stay to genny tack.

      See album's photo "Gennaker Rigging" to show the blue and white genny stay and its attachment to the Ronstan top swivel. Also shown is one of the flying leads that comes with the sail and should be attached to the swivel, which I have done but probably very inelegantly. The top & bottom leads isolate the stay and stop it being twisted. (Very important if the stay was stainless steel.) The photo shows the large gap between sail head and top swivel - I believe this should be minimal.

       

      Thanks Tim for your solution.  But wouldn't the best remedy be to have the stay made only slightly longer than the genny tack? Has anyone a more elegant solution than a knotted stay? Is there an upmarket sheepshank trucky's knot that won't undo when not tensioned and that will fit in the genny's tack sleeve out there? 



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