Re: [VanDeGraaffGenerator] Re: Question for Richard...
- The stretch is minimal so it might be a problem. But, because of that, the opposite sides of the belt cannot pull in toward each other and touch. My more stretchy belts attracted each other due to opposite charge on the up and down side. This really screwed up the charge transfer.Because of this minimal stretch characteristic the roller crowns have to be much less pronounced than with stretchy stuff because it won't wrap around a severe curve. In spite of all this, if you're going to build another VDG I would include belt tension adjustment and even roller camber adjustment so you can have the freedom of a wide choice of belt materials.Take a look at my pictures of the roller assemblies and you can see how I implemented roller adjustment.Dick----- Original Message -----From: questorthSent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 11:17 PMSubject: [VanDeGraaffGenerator] Re: Question for Richard...
Thanks for the information! :) Does this material stretch at all?
I know one of the reasons you selected it was because it didn't
stretch much. For my current project I probably won't have any
tension adjustment ability, so I need at least a LITTLE bit of
flexibility, do you think this will be a problem for me?
--- In VanDeGraaffGenerator@yahoogroups.com, "Richard R. Linder"
> Hi Paul & fellow VDG forum members:
> Info re vinyl/nylon belt material>>>
> Manufactured by Mauritzon Inc., 3939 W. Belden Ave., Chicago, IL,
> I purchased it from McMaster Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/
> McMaster Carr catalog number 8810K21
> You can search on the catalog number to get the latest price or any
keyword to explore other stuff
> They accept credit card orders.
> McMaster shipped the stuff to me in the same container that they
received it from Mauritzon. The Mauritzon part number is MCM FT-
VLN1301-10 I think the MCM stands for McMaster and the rest of
the number is the Mfgs part number.
> Description is white 60" wide 13 oz .0154" thick F.R. Vinyl
> I used Weldon #16 acrylic cement for the splices. I could not find
it locally but managed to locate it at http://www.lifereef.com
Lifereef Filter Systems. Owned by "Jeff" who builds custom
aquariums. I bought my first VDG plexi tube from him plus the
Weldon. He's a nice guy and wants to build a VDG some day.
> Splicing is not too difficult.
> First you want to cut a strip of material the proper width and
several inches longer than your belt length. Thread the strip onto
your VDG so the excess length is draped over the top roller and one
end of the strip is laying over the other. Slide the top strip a bit
to one side exposing the edge of the strip underneath. Make an index
mark on the edge of both strips. When making the splice, these two
marks will be aligned to ensure the belt is the correct length
> Get a clean flat board a bit wider than the belt and a couple of
feet long. You lay the two ends of the strip on top of the board so
the long edges of the strip are lined up straight. I used an aluminum
yardstick to do this or you can use the edge of the board if it is
straight. While doing this, also overlap the ends of the strip such
that the index marks are about 5/16" offset from each other in the
direction to make the belt LONGER Tape the strips to the board to
hold them in line. Using a razor blade cut through both layers of the
belt. The cut should be at about a 30 degree angle. It is not fussy
because the angle will be the same for both ends. Untape one of the
strips and slide it along until you have a 5/16 inch overlap and now
retape the strip.
> Slide a piece of wax paper between the belt strips and the board to
protect the board from excess glue and so you won't glue the belt to
the board! You'll need another piece of wax paper for the top
because....you want to lay a strip of wood along the splice and clamp
it to the board with a couple of C clamps. Clamping the splice will
keep it flat and result in a good weld.
> With the belt in place, wax paper under the belt and wax paper,
wood strip and C clamps ready, lift the top piece of vinyl, apply the
glue with a cotton swab and lower the piece back down onto the glue.
Press down with your fingers to make sure there is good contact, wipe
of excess glue and then clamp the wood strip in place. Don't forget
the 2nd piece of wax paper under the clamping strip.
> I let it sit overnight which is probably more than necessary. I
would practice a bit with short pieces just to get a feel for how
much glue to use, working time etc etc. Depending on the belt width
and length you might want to experiment with different splice
overlaps. The 5/16 inch is arbitrary and is somewhat dependent on the
diameter of your rollers.
> In the case of the big VDG, my belt has three splices due to the
fact it the belt almost fifteen feet long. I called Mauritzon and
asked if they could supply it in 6 inch strips and they said it would
be a "special" and they would have to sell me 10,000 feet to justify
a special run. Therefore three splices...no big deal.
> I am using this material in both VDGs now with great results. In
both VDGs the bottom roller is nylon and the top is teflon in the
small VDG and PVC in the big VDG.
> By the way, the ouside surface of the belt is that which has an
embossing like a checkerboard. You can turn it inside out and try it
but I found that checkerboard facing out was the best.
> Hope this helps
> Best wishes..Dick
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: questorth
> To: VanDeGraaffGenerator@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 1:18 PM
> Subject: [VanDeGraaffGenerator] Question for Richard...
> I am interested in making a belt with the same material you have
> mentioned in the past. Could you give me the exact catalog #, I
> haven't been able to find anything under the name you mentioned.
> would also appreciate it if you could give me instructions
> (pictures?? :) on doing the splice effectively.
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