Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: Tom Janstrom' vacuum chamber

Expand Messages
  • arcstarter
    ... of ... I just spent about 5 hrs trying to get a reliable silver soldered joint between steel and steel, using Harris Safety-Silv-45 and their generic
    Message 1 of 11 , Apr 4, 2005
    • 0 Attachment
      --- In VacuumX@yahoogroups.com, "jrrymiller" <gandamiller@v...> wrote:
      >
      > Tom,
      > I fought pin holes in my bell chamber. (was the case for a swimming
      > pool filter). Silver solder works well if you can identify the hole
      > location. I finally achieved success by applying a coat of self
      > etching primer to the whole thing. This may not help you because
      of
      > the heat.
      >
      > Jerry

      I just spent about 5 hrs trying to get a reliable silver soldered
      joint between steel and steel, using Harris Safety-Silv-45 and their
      generic "white" flux paste. Seems the flux goes all black -n- nasty
      about 5 degrees lower than the melting point of the solder...

      Do you have any hints? I am new to this 'white' flux - and usually
      use Peterson's Blue #1 for cast-iron brazing. Might try that type of
      flux next...

      -Bill
    • James Lerch
      ... From: arcstarter ... I tried silver soldering my cold rolled steel plate, for the same problem, pinholes. I used a white powdered
      Message 2 of 11 , Apr 4, 2005
      • 0 Attachment
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: "arcstarter" <arcstarter@...>
        >
        > I just spent about 5 hrs trying to get a reliable silver soldered
        > joint between steel and steel, using Harris Safety-Silv-45 and their
        > generic "white" flux paste. Seems the flux goes all black -n- nasty
        > about 5 degrees lower than the melting point of the solder...
        >
        > Do you have any hints? I am new to this 'white' flux - and usually
        > use Peterson's Blue #1 for cast-iron brazing. Might try that type of
        > flux next...

        I tried silver soldering my cold rolled steel plate, for the same problem,
        pinholes. I used a white powdered flux, and while the joint looked good, and
        flowed nicely. Once it cooled you could peel the silver soldier out with a pair
        of needle nose pliers. I thing the silver soldier I was using was called
        "SilvFlow", normally used on HVAC copper freon lines.

        In the end, I found "My" silver soldier to be worthless on steel, and have had
        great results with regular old brass rod, and or Epoxy, or Super Glue (depending
        on the size of the hole, or how uncertain I am in where the hole might actually
        be)


        Take Care,
        James Lerch
        http://lerch.no-ip.com/atm (My telescope construction,testing, and coating site)

        "Anything that can happen, will happen" -Stephen Pollock from:
        "Particle Physics for Non-Physicists: A Tour of the Microcosmos"

        " Press on: nothing in the world can take the place of perseverance.
        Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent.
        Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb.
        Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts.
        Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. "
        Calvin Coolidge
      • ed ward
        borax works very well I use it all the time-ed ... __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best
        Message 3 of 11 , Apr 5, 2005
        • 0 Attachment
          borax works very well I use it all the time-ed
          --- arcstarter <arcstarter@...> wrote:
          >
          > --- In VacuumX@yahoogroups.com, "jrrymiller"
          > <gandamiller@v...> wrote:
          > >
          > > Tom,
          > > I fought pin holes in my bell chamber. (was the
          > case for a swimming
          > > pool filter). Silver solder works well if you can
          > identify the hole
          > > location. I finally achieved success by applying
          > a coat of self
          > > etching primer to the whole thing. This may not
          > help you because
          > of
          > > the heat.
          > >
          > > Jerry
          >
          > I just spent about 5 hrs trying to get a reliable
          > silver soldered
          > joint between steel and steel, using Harris
          > Safety-Silv-45 and their
          > generic "white" flux paste. Seems the flux goes all
          > black -n- nasty
          > about 5 degrees lower than the melting point of the
          > solder...
          >
          > Do you have any hints? I am new to this 'white'
          > flux - and usually
          > use Peterson's Blue #1 for cast-iron brazing. Might
          > try that type of
          > flux next...
          >
          > -Bill
          >
          >
          >
          >

          __________________________________________________
          Do You Yahoo!?
          Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
          http://mail.yahoo.com
        • jrrymiller
          Bill, I am no expert on welding but I do know that to take any kind of solder the surface must be very clean. I use a rotary wire brush on my drill motor as
          Message 4 of 11 , Apr 6, 2005
          • 0 Attachment
            Bill,
            I am no expert on welding but I do know that to take any kind of
            solder the surface must be very clean. I use a rotary wire brush on
            my drill motor as the start of prep. Borax is good. I even went
            to "nocorode" acid flux and soft solder (60-40) on one area. I have
            never been really satisfied with soldering stainless steel. That is
            why I borrowed a can of self etching primer from my airplane building
            friend. Now that it has worked I am afraid to paint it for fear of
            opening up a pin-hole.

            Jerry


            > I just spent about 5 hrs trying to get a reliable silver soldered
            > joint between steel and steel, using Harris Safety-Silv-45 and their
            > generic "white" flux paste. Seems the flux goes all black -n-
            nasty
            > about 5 degrees lower than the melting point of the solder...
            >
            > Do you have any hints? I am new to this 'white' flux - and usually
            > use Peterson's Blue #1 for cast-iron brazing. Might try that type
            of
            > flux next...
            >
            > -Bill
          • Ken Hunter
            So... Paint the tank while under a vacuum. Any small pin holes will suck the paint into the hole and plug it up. Larger holes will suck the paint all the way
            Message 5 of 11 , Apr 7, 2005
            • 0 Attachment
              So...

              Paint the tank while under a vacuum. Any small pin holes will suck
              the paint into the hole and plug it up. Larger holes will suck the
              paint all the way through and show up easier... Actually you do NOT
              want to do this if you have large leaks as the paint will make it
              difficult to clean the holes out. OK for smaller leaks.

              Also... When using a wire brush on Stainless, make sure it is a
              Stainless steel brush that's never been used on Iron or Steel.
              Regular iron or steel wire brushes will leave impurities on the tank
              making a welded or soldered joint more difficult or impossible.

              Ken Hunter

              --- In VacuumX@yahoogroups.com, "jrrymiller" <gandamiller@v...>
              wrote:
              >
              > Bill,
              > I am no expert on welding but I do know that to take any kind of
              > solder the surface must be very clean. I use a rotary wire brush
              on
              > my drill motor as the start of prep. Borax is good. I even went
              > to "nocorode" acid flux and soft solder (60-40) on one area. I
              have
              > never been really satisfied with soldering stainless steel. That
              is
              > why I borrowed a can of self etching primer from my airplane
              building
              > friend. Now that it has worked I am afraid to paint it for fear of
              > opening up a pin-hole.
              >
              > Jerry
              >
              >
              > > I just spent about 5 hrs trying to get a reliable silver
              soldered
              > > joint between steel and steel, using Harris Safety-Silv-45 and
              their
              > > generic "white" flux paste. Seems the flux goes all black -n-
              > nasty
              > > about 5 degrees lower than the melting point of the solder...
              > >
              > > Do you have any hints? I am new to this 'white' flux - and
              usually
              > > use Peterson's Blue #1 for cast-iron brazing. Might try that
              type
              > of
              > > flux next...
              > >
              > > -Bill
            Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.