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Hitting 2 Birds with 1 Stone!

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  • td02460
    After 2 years of hard to impossible cold-weather (
    Message 1 of 6 , Dec 5, 2013
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      After 2 years of hard to impossible cold-weather (<40F) starting, and a bouncing, sometimes erratic tachometer needle I finally fixed them both for $7! I got the motivation and idea from list member Tom Donovan who forwarded me an earlier post from Larry Wolfe who got it from stevec1200brg, another list member who got it from http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=116991 (whew!)   It’s simply hot-wiring the ignition coils directly from the battery the thru a fused relay switch. Results: WOW!  Easy cold starts (stronger spark with full battery voltage to coils - I measured 1.25 volts less to the coils with original the wiring), nice & smooth tachometer needle & much smoother running engine from idle to red-line!.  I uploaded a file to called “Trophy Coil Relay Upgrade” showing the basic wiring configuration I chose.  Background: I’ve been running with Nology coils and wires for the last 5 years, 50K miles with good luck until the temperature dropped.  I believe the root cause of the cold-weather voltage loss to the coils resulting with the impossible cold-weather starts and erratic tachometer needle has something to do with resistance lurking about in the starter/engine cut-out system.  Either a bad connection, switch or relay somewhere. 2 clues were a finicky clutch lever and side stand switch.  While cranking the engine in neutral I sometimes got the “fire to light” by flipping the side stand up or pulling-in the clutch.  Both switches ohmed-out fine so me thinks it’s a short in the wiring loom, a bad connection or a bad side stand relay switch buried in the cockpit fairing.  Speaking of the starter/engine cut-out system, should you decide to re-configure the coils as I did, you’ll want to use the green leads to the positive side of the ignition coils to switch-on the relay.  This way you will retain the engine/starter cut-out safety system features and not get caught riding down the road with side stand deployed!

      Ride Safe!

      Tony D. ’01 1200, 102K miles

    • adeux60@ymail.com
      there is probably a voltage leak from the ignitor or possibly the alarm if fitted. this has been named a katana/suzuki boost or johnson jolt if you wish to
      Message 2 of 6 , Dec 5, 2013
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        there is probably a voltage leak from the ignitor or possibly the alarm if fitted.


        this has been named a katana/suzuki boost or johnson jolt if you wish to look up other variants on it. generally a signal taken from the old coil wires can be used to fire a relay taking a new supply from the battery to the coils


        another alternative is to take a signal off the starter - for a starting boost.


        When I replaced the ignitor with a later model I found the voltage boost unnecessary


        good luck



        ---In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, <tony.dagostino@...> wrote:

         

        After 2 years of hard to impossible cold-weather (<40F) starting, and a bouncing, sometimes erratic tachometer needle I finally fixed them both for $7! I got the motivation and idea from list member Tom Donovan who forwarded me an earlier post from Larry Wolfe who got it from stevec1200brg, another list member who got it from http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=116991 (whew!)   It’s simply hot-wiring the ignition coils directly from the battery the thru a fused relay switch. Results: WOW!  Easy cold starts (stronger spark with full battery voltage to coils - I measured 1.25 volts less to the coils with original the wiring), nice & smooth tachometer needle & much smoother running engine from idle to red-line!.  I uploaded a file to called “Trophy Coil Relay Upgrade” showing the basic wiring configuration I chose.  Background: I’ve been running with Nology coils and wires for the last 5 years, 50K miles with good luck until the temperature dropped.  I believe the root cause of the cold-weather voltage loss to the coils resulting with the impossible cold-weather starts and erratic tachometer needle has something to do with resistance lurking about in the starter/engine cut-out system.  Either a bad connection, switch or relay somewhere. 2 clues were a finicky clutch lever and side stand switch.  While cranking the engine in neutral I sometimes got the “fire to light” by flipping the side stand up or pulling-in the clutch.  Both switches ohmed-out fine so me thinks it’s a short in the wiring loom, a bad connection or a bad side stand relay switch buried in the cockpit fairing.  Speaking of the starter/engine cut-out system, should you decide to re-configure the coils as I did, you’ll want to use the green leads to the positive side of the ignition coils to switch-on the relay.  This way you will retain the engine/starter cut-out safety system features and not get caught riding down the road with side stand deployed!

        Ride Safe!

        Tony D. ’01 1200, 102K miles

      • adeux60@ymail.com
        Is that essex Tony?
        Message 3 of 6 , Dec 5, 2013
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          Is that essex Tony?

        • adeux60@ymail.com
          that ll teach me to read the post - works well doesnt it - also if I deleted my first post you can update the ignitor for a later one and the voltage loss will
          Message 4 of 6 , Dec 5, 2013
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            that'll teach me to read the post - works well doesnt it - also if I deleted my first post you can update the ignitor for a later one and the voltage loss will disappear


          • djacarr@sky.com
            I m a bit puzzled, the igniter unit on my bike (94 Trophy 1200) is orange. Looking on eBay I see that there are a few second-hand units which are black. Does
            Message 5 of 6 , Dec 6, 2013
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              I'm a bit puzzled, the igniter unit on my bike (94 Trophy 1200) is orange. Looking on eBay I see that there are a few second-hand units which are black. Does this mean I have a later unit? Or early?


              From: "adeux60@..." <adeux60@...>
              To: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Thursday, 5 December 2013, 23:39
              Subject: [TriumphTrophy] RE: Hitting 2 Birds with 1 Stone!

               
              that'll teach me to read the post - works well doesnt it - also if I deleted my first post you can update the ignitor for a later one and the voltage loss will disappear



            • adeux60@ymail.com
              in my limited experience the older units are bulkier and can be opened and are boxy (deinately black) the younger unit is smaller, sealed and has fully
              Message 6 of 6 , Dec 6, 2013
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                in my limited experience the older units are bulkier and can be opened and are boxy (deinately black)  the younger unit is smaller, sealed and has fully rounded sides with a flat end (maybe blue from memory)


                Not seen orange ones


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