Johnson jolt - :Voltage Drop was Carb balancing.
- Now its the Johnson Jolt....allegedly...
--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, Ed Johnson <edljohnson2@...> wrote:
> Thanks Joan;
> Time to change the subject line or it will be hard to find this
> thread in the future.:-[
> I am indeed using a digital multimeter but I am getting and 1v drop to
> the coils before I ever touch the starter button. I am measuring the
> voltage with the coils unhooked at the positive side and reading from
> there to ground. All I know for sure is that I'm getting the same
> reading on both sides of all the fuses as I do from the battery. Testing
> a plug for spark while turning the bike over produces no "visible" spark
> in a normal garage. Unhooking the positive wires to the coils and
> jumping them direct to the battery produces a big fat spark that is
> visible in the sunlight. Hooked up in this manner the bike will start in
> less than three seconds cold and idle perfectly immediately. A little
> choke is necessary to get the engine to rev a little. [Not surprising]
> Hence the so called "Katana Mod" which uses one of the original coil
> wires to key a relay that sends full battery voltage to the coils.
> Visualizing a grounded spark plug this fat spark is pulsing as the
> engine turns over. [BTW:The engine will run quite easily in this mode on
> the remaining three cylinders.]
> I understand what you are saying about an oscilloscope however the
> coil voltage drops to 7-9 v during cranking and does NOT produce a fat
> enough spark to start the engine. With the "Mod" there is no problem.
> All I have to do is LOOK at the bike and she starts now! It also pulls
> harder at low speeds than before. It would be interesting to know what
> would happen if one could turn over the starter from an auxiliary source
> and leave the on board battery to power everything else. I KNOW I have
> an anomaly some where as my bike will not turn over in neutral with the
> clutch released and according to the schematic and other Trophy's it
> should. I clean all connectors and moved all wires and something I
> moved, under the nose cone, caused it to suddenly turn over with the
> clutch released. By the time I got the nose cone back on it would no
> longer do it so I never got a chance to measure voltages. That to me is
> simply an intermittent bad connection to ground somewhere. Bad
> connections cause low voltages in my mind. I just haven't found it yet.
> But I HAVE found a Band-Aid! What else would a Johnson use? :-[
> *Ed J. *2001Triumph Trophy BBBB**
> On 3/17/2013 6:57 PM, joan tabberer wrote:
> > Hi Ed,
> > I suspect you are testing the voltage using a test meter, this is
> > unlikely to give you the instantaneous voltage under starting
> > conditions, where you would probably be better served by an
> > ossiloscope...
> > test meters especially digital ones have quite a slow response time.
> > chances are if you have sufficient resistance to cause a
> > noticeable static voltage drop, then the dynamic voltage drop is
> > going to be worsened by at least two factors,
> > 1, under cranking load, the source voltage from the Battery WILL
> > Reduce, causing the Coil voltage to reduce comparably, and
> > 2, when the Igniter is working the coils, it will also draw current on
> > the power feed to the coils, further reducing the voltage.
> > it is very likely that you will see a reduction on the test meter, due
> > to cranking, but unlikely that you will see a reduction due to the
> > igniter firing the coils as there pulses are likely to be too short
> > for the meter response time!
> > regards Joan!
> > *From:* Ed Johnson edljohnson2@... <mailto:edljohnson2@...>
> > Now I'm sitting here still staring at the schematic trying to figure
> > out how to trouble shoot the problem and find the REAL fix so that the
> > mod is not even necessary.
> I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
> SPAMfighter has removed 6179 of my spam emails to date.
> Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
> Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan
Some good help here. I have a problem, though.
When sync'ing I cannot get vacuum anywhere near 152mmHg. The best I can get is around 300mmHg! That is to much vacuum - clogged air filter perhaps? Also she's stood over the winter and now pops on idle and over-run which would suggest it's lean which contradicts a clogged filter. Did a 300 mile run last weekend and got 47mpg - suggesting she's running very lean.
--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "gordon2xbbb" <gordon.smith29@...> wrote:
> 5) Vacuum at IDLE SPEED should be between 5.00 and 6.00 inches HG (127 to 152mmHg) - Yes, these measurements are do-able on good quality Gauges, not so using lolly-pop sticks or a wobbly eyeball..