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Johnson jolt - :Voltage Drop was Carb balancing.

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  • a2
    Now its the Johnson Jolt....allegedly... A2
    Message 1 of 32 , Mar 18, 2013
      Now its the Johnson Jolt....allegedly...
      A2

      --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, Ed Johnson <edljohnson2@...> wrote:
      >
      > Thanks Joan;
      > Time to change the subject line or it will be hard to find this
      > thread in the future.:-[
      > I am indeed using a digital multimeter but I am getting and 1v drop to
      > the coils before I ever touch the starter button. I am measuring the
      > voltage with the coils unhooked at the positive side and reading from
      > there to ground. All I know for sure is that I'm getting the same
      > reading on both sides of all the fuses as I do from the battery. Testing
      > a plug for spark while turning the bike over produces no "visible" spark
      > in a normal garage. Unhooking the positive wires to the coils and
      > jumping them direct to the battery produces a big fat spark that is
      > visible in the sunlight. Hooked up in this manner the bike will start in
      > less than three seconds cold and idle perfectly immediately. A little
      > choke is necessary to get the engine to rev a little. [Not surprising]
      > Hence the so called "Katana Mod" which uses one of the original coil
      > wires to key a relay that sends full battery voltage to the coils.
      > Visualizing a grounded spark plug this fat spark is pulsing as the
      > engine turns over. [BTW:The engine will run quite easily in this mode on
      > the remaining three cylinders.]
      > I understand what you are saying about an oscilloscope however the
      > coil voltage drops to 7-9 v during cranking and does NOT produce a fat
      > enough spark to start the engine. With the "Mod" there is no problem.
      > All I have to do is LOOK at the bike and she starts now! It also pulls
      > harder at low speeds than before. It would be interesting to know what
      > would happen if one could turn over the starter from an auxiliary source
      > and leave the on board battery to power everything else. I KNOW I have
      > an anomaly some where as my bike will not turn over in neutral with the
      > clutch released and according to the schematic and other Trophy's it
      > should. I clean all connectors and moved all wires and something I
      > moved, under the nose cone, caused it to suddenly turn over with the
      > clutch released. By the time I got the nose cone back on it would no
      > longer do it so I never got a chance to measure voltages. That to me is
      > simply an intermittent bad connection to ground somewhere. Bad
      > connections cause low voltages in my mind. I just haven't found it yet.
      > But I HAVE found a Band-Aid! What else would a Johnson use? :-[
      >
      > *Ed J. *2001Triumph Trophy BBBB**
      > On 3/17/2013 6:57 PM, joan tabberer wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > > Hi Ed,
      > > I suspect you are testing the voltage using a test meter, this is
      > > unlikely to give you the instantaneous voltage under starting
      > > conditions, where you would probably be better served by an
      > > ossiloscope...
      > > test meters especially digital ones have quite a slow response time.
      > > chances are if you have sufficient resistance to cause a
      > > noticeable static voltage drop, then the dynamic voltage drop is
      > > going to be worsened by at least two factors,
      > > 1, under cranking load, the source voltage from the Battery WILL
      > > Reduce, causing the Coil voltage to reduce comparably, and
      > > 2, when the Igniter is working the coils, it will also draw current on
      > > the power feed to the coils, further reducing the voltage.
      > > it is very likely that you will see a reduction on the test meter, due
      > > to cranking, but unlikely that you will see a reduction due to the
      > > igniter firing the coils as there pulses are likely to be too short
      > > for the meter response time!
      > > regards Joan!
      > >
      > > *From:* Ed Johnson edljohnson2@... <mailto:edljohnson2@...>
      > > Now I'm sitting here still staring at the schematic trying to figure
      > > out how to trouble shoot the problem and find the REAL fix so that the
      > > mod is not even necessary.
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
      > --
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    • ian.peart
      Hi Some good help here. I have a problem, though. When sync ing I cannot get vacuum anywhere near 152mmHg. The best I can get is around 300mmHg! That is to
      Message 32 of 32 , May 10 5:14 AM
        Hi

        Some good help here. I have a problem, though.

        When sync'ing I cannot get vacuum anywhere near 152mmHg. The best I can get is around 300mmHg! That is to much vacuum - clogged air filter perhaps? Also she's stood over the winter and now pops on idle and over-run which would suggest it's lean which contradicts a clogged filter. Did a 300 mile run last weekend and got 47mpg - suggesting she's running very lean.

        Any ideas?

        Ian

        --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "gordon2xbbb" <gordon.smith29@...> wrote:
        >

        >
        > 5) Vacuum at IDLE SPEED should be between 5.00 and 6.00 inches HG (127 to 152mmHg) - Yes, these measurements are do-able on good quality Gauges, not so using lolly-pop sticks or a wobbly eyeball..
        >
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