Re: Carb balancing.
- We are getting a couple volts additional drop at the coils using a digital multimeter
--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, joan tabberer <rebullet@...> wrote:
> Hi Ed,
> I suspect you are testing the voltage using a test meter, this is unlikely to give you the instantaneous voltage under starting conditions, where you would probably be better served by an ossiloscope...
> test meters especially digital ones have quite a slow response time.
> chances are if you have sufficient resistance to cause a noticeable static voltage drop, then the dynamic voltage drop is going to be worsened by at least two factors,
> 1, under cranking load, the source voltage from the Battery WILL Reduce, causing the Coil voltage to reduce comparably, and
> 2, when the Igniter is working the coils, it will also draw current on the power feed to the coils, further reducing the voltage.
> it is very likely that you will see a reduction on the test meter, due to cranking, but unlikely that you will see a reduction due to the igniter firing the coils as there pulses are likely to be too short for the meter response time!
> regards Joan!
> From: Ed Johnson edljohnson2@...
> Now I'm sitting here still staring at the schematic trying to figure out how to trouble shoot the problem and find the REAL fix so that the mod is not even necessary.
Some good help here. I have a problem, though.
When sync'ing I cannot get vacuum anywhere near 152mmHg. The best I can get is around 300mmHg! That is to much vacuum - clogged air filter perhaps? Also she's stood over the winter and now pops on idle and over-run which would suggest it's lean which contradicts a clogged filter. Did a 300 mile run last weekend and got 47mpg - suggesting she's running very lean.
--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "gordon2xbbb" <gordon.smith29@...> wrote:
> 5) Vacuum at IDLE SPEED should be between 5.00 and 6.00 inches HG (127 to 152mmHg) - Yes, these measurements are do-able on good quality Gauges, not so using lolly-pop sticks or a wobbly eyeball..