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Re: Bike quit under acceleration (coil, ignitor, something else...)

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  • a2
    There is a whole lockout system that affects the ignitor that you have to rule out first - going through the sidestand, clutch, kill switch and relay, neutral
    Message 1 of 18 , Mar 4, 2013
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      There is a whole lockout system that affects the ignitor that you have to rule out first - going through the sidestand, clutch, kill switch and relay, neutral light.

      You could check the ignitor for a cracked board but if it is fried then it wont start AT ALL. (was was cooked by an over-voltage)

      A2



      --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Scott" <groups@...> wrote:
      >
      > Ok, so back to this from last fall.
      > (life got in the way and I'm a bit behind).
      >
      > I feel pretty good that I can rule out anything related to fuel, I've pulled the tank and inspected everything and fuel flows fine. No signs of water, rust, etc. Tap isn't blocked/plugged. Lines are fine. For good measure I ran the bike with the tank actually rigged above so I could reach all the lines.
      >
      > I tested the kill switch and that measures fine.
      >
      > I checked every wire connection and ground I could find. I replaced the battery (because my tender failed and boiled all the water out of the old one).
      >
      > Bike fired right up and ran about as long as it did last time, then refused to restart warm.
      >
      > Attempting to re-start resulted in fouled plugs, so, pretty sure fuel is flowing ok.
      >
      > The crank/ignition sensor measures resistance fine - even hot.
      >
      > There's a fellow on the rat forum who describes exactly what my bike is doing, and he ended up at ignitor.
      >
      > http://www.triumphrat.net/hinckley-classic-triples/163464-new-bike-with-starting-issue.html
      >
      > I've ordered a sensor anyway. Worse case I'll sell it for not much money lost.
      >
      > Scott
      >
      > --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Scott" <groups@> wrote:
      > > kill switch (disassemble, Clean)
      > > Water/Rust in Tank (look in tank, check fuel coming out of tank; check float bowls if signs of water)
      > > Fuel Tap Diaphram (check if fuel only flows in Prime)
      > > Fuel tap filter, vacuum line, fuel line (disassemble, visually inspect.)
      > > Ignition Pickup aka Pickup COil aka Crank Trigger aka Crank Position Sensor (warm with a heat gun or hair dryer while bike running to see if quits)
      >
    • Samuel Crider
      Hi Scott, A years or so ago while I happened to have the side panels off. I decided to clean all the electrical headers. This led to the discovery of water in
      Message 2 of 18 , Mar 4, 2013
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        Hi Scott,

        A years or so ago while I happened to have the side panels off. I decided to clean all the electrical headers. This led to the discovery of water in my ignitor case. Luckily, mine has the split case. As I believe that the newer models are sealed. What I found was that the lower circuit board trace was standing in water. And had almost completely desolved away the lower trace. I ended up bypassing it with a small wire and resoldering multiple questionable solder joints. Recently, I cut up a pair of gore tex boots. Which produced lots of usable fabric. So the plan is next time I pull the panels. To drill vent holes in the gauges along with the ignitor case. And then glue in gore tex inside over the holes. Hopefully, this will stop my gauge fogging issues and eliminate the condensation buildup. Anyway, to make a long story short you might want to check your ignitor for water intrusion.

        Best of luck!

        Samuel
        96 BBBB PB
        New Orleans

        On Mar 4, 2013 1:42 PM, "a2" <adeux60@...> wrote:
        There is a whole lockout system that affects the ignitor that you have to rule out first - going through the sidestand, clutch, kill switch and relay, neutral light.

        You could check the ignitor for a cracked board but if it is fried then it wont start AT ALL. (was was cooked by an over-voltage)

        A2



        --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Scott" <groups@...> wrote:
        >
        > Ok, so back to this from last fall.
        > (life got in the way and I'm a bit behind).
        >
        > I feel pretty good that I can rule out anything related to fuel, I've pulled the tank and inspected everything and fuel flows fine.  No signs of water, rust, etc.  Tap isn't blocked/plugged.  Lines are fine.  For good measure I ran the bike with the tank actually rigged above so I could reach all the lines.
        >
        > I tested the kill switch and that measures fine.
        >
        > I checked every wire connection and ground I could find.  I replaced the battery (because my tender failed and boiled all the water out of the old one).
        >
        > Bike fired right up and ran about as long as it did last time, then refused to restart warm.
        >
        > Attempting to re-start resulted in fouled plugs, so, pretty sure fuel is flowing ok.
        >
        > The crank/ignition sensor measures resistance fine - even hot.
        >
        > There's a fellow on the rat forum who describes exactly what my bike is doing, and he ended up at ignitor.
        >
        > http://www.triumphrat.net/hinckley-classic-triples/163464-new-bike-with-starting-issue.html
        >
        > I've ordered a sensor anyway.  Worse case I'll sell it for not much money lost.
        >
        > Scott
        >
        > --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Scott" <groups@> wrote:
        > > kill switch (disassemble, Clean)
        > > Water/Rust in Tank (look in tank, check fuel coming out of tank; check float bowls if signs of water)
        > > Fuel Tap Diaphram (check if fuel only flows in Prime)
        > > Fuel tap filter, vacuum line, fuel line (disassemble, visually inspect.)
        > > Ignition Pickup aka Pickup COil aka Crank Trigger aka Crank Position Sensor (warm with a heat gun or hair dryer while bike running to see if quits)
        >




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      • Nick Baker private
        Hi Scott, That sounds like the bike is getting too much fuel. So it starts OK from cold and runs but when warm it basically won t start because it is flooding.
        Message 3 of 18 , Mar 5, 2013
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          Hi Scott,

           

          That sounds like the bike is getting too much fuel. So it starts OK from cold and runs but when warm it basically won’t start because it is flooding. Have you had the carbs off/cleaned out? If the bike has some mileage I would strongly recommend a carb strip and check, including removing the float assemblies and replacing the two O rings that seal the float assembly to the carb body. They harden over time and if they leak the bike will be getting way too much fuel, hence the fouling. Another tell-tale sign would be if you have to use very little or no choke to start it from cold – this would also point to rich mixture.

           

          Cheers, Nick

           

           

        • Ed Johnson
          I don t think anyone has had more rare crap happen to a bike than I have but if Nick is correct there could be some little brass jets rolling around in your
          Message 4 of 18 , Mar 5, 2013
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                I don't think anyone has had more rare crap happen to a bike than I have but if Nick is correct there could be some little brass jets rolling around in your float bowls. If so, they belong in the float assembly at the entrance to the [choke] enrichment tube which is the smallest of the two tubes with the O rings on them. It took me two years to find out where they came from and belonged. It is a rare case that they come out but since ethanol "enhancement" fuel injection is the way to go on your next bike. The other thing that happened to mine was the engine covers were missing from mine and the coils overheated. Bike would start and run fine when it was cold but crap out when the coils got too hot. They were brand new Nology coils too BTW which if yours aren't MIGHT be another place to look. Just make sure you have the engine [Triumph calls them "cowl covers"] are still in place. I guess some mechanic that had worked on my bike decided they weren't needed because the previous owner bought the bike new and never touched a wrench in the 90,000 miles he rode it. Everything was done in one of two shops in Orlando.
            HTH
            Ed J. 2001Triumph Trophy BBBB
            On 3/5/2013 6:05 AM, Nick Baker private wrote:

            Hi Scott,

             

            That sounds like the bike is getting too much fuel. So it starts OK from cold and runs but when warm it basically won’t start because it is flooding. Have you had the carbs off/cleaned out? If the bike has some mileage I would strongly recommend a carb strip and check, including removing the float assemblies and replacing the two O rings that seal the float assembly to the carb body. They harden over time and if they leak the bike will be getting way too much fuel, hence the fouling. Another tell-tale sign would be if you have to use very little or no choke to start it from cold – this would also point to rich mixture.

             

            Cheers, Nick

             

             


             
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