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Re: Ongoing starting problems

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  • scotia whiskers
    Carb icing is when ice (from moisture in the air or fuel) forms in the inlet tract. It is more affected by humidity than temperature. As fuel sprays in a fine
    Message 1 of 25 , Mar 3, 2013
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      Carb icing is when ice (from moisture in the air or fuel) forms in the inlet tract. It is more affected by humidity than temperature.

      As fuel sprays in a fine mist out of the jet into the airflow, the effective change from liquid to gas takes energy from the fuel, dropping the temperature. It is one reason why cars tend to have a warm and cold air feed with a balancer mechanism in the airbox. 

      Ice can build up on the walls, but also actually on the slides / air / fuel passageways. My GT550 Kawasaki is prone to icing up after it has been running for a while in cold moist conditions - I have homemade winter baffles to trap warm air around the carb bodies and airbox intake which helps.

      Piston aircraft engines are particularly prone to it and it can be very dangerous for them - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carburetor_icing gives basic info and a link to a downloadable chart.
    • scotia whiskers
      Sounds like a wire with an internal break. I had that on an old Kawasaki which would randomly cut out when turning the bars. The insulation looked fine but the
      Message 2 of 25 , Mar 3, 2013
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        Sounds like a wire with an internal break. I had that on an old Kawasaki which would randomly cut out when turning the bars. The insulation looked fine but the main power feed wire from the ignition switch to the black box had fragmented inside leading to poor running and the occasional failure.

        If you've got something similar on either the main feed to the ignition switch or from the ignition switch back to the ignition you'll get a weak feed. If it is also the sensor line for the alternator then it will be charging to battery voltage or barely over. Had that on my old Guzzi - regulating to battery voltage +0.2V as long as the lights were off. With the lights on it was about 0.7V under battery at best!

        Hope that helps or gives more places to look.

        Scotia

      • gluman3
        Obviously I am a better mechanic than speller! Thanks for pointing out my fowl error (that spell checker missed) Ed. I got a good laugh out of that one!:)
        Message 3 of 25 , Mar 4, 2013
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          Obviously I am a better mechanic than speller! Thanks for pointing out my "fowl" error (that spell checker missed) Ed. I got a good laugh out of that one!:)

          --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, Ed Johnson <edljohnson2@...> wrote:
          >
          > Does "Fowling" the plugs mean that that they are full of bird feathers
          > or does that equate to "Fouling" the plugs? [A smart ass is better than
          > no ass at all!:-) ]

          2/2013 11:59 AM, gluman3 wrote:
          > > I have four carburetor type Hinkley Triumphs. Starting any of them has not been an issue, however, I have noticed, that they can load up and fowl the plugs easily if you are not careful to do it properly. If the bike has been sitting for a while, putting the petcock in Pri (Prime) wi> *Ed J. *2001Triumph Trophy BBBB**
          > On 3/ll make sure the carburetors are full. Be sure to take out of prime position as soon as it starts. Use full choke but do not touch the throttle. If it does not start in three seconds of cranking (assuming your battery is in good condition, I use a battery tender on all my bikes) turn the choke off and try again. In most cases, it will start. At this point, you may want to give it a little gas to keep the rpm up but not to much. Excessive use of the choke will fowl the plugs and make it hard to start in the future.
          > >
          > > Cheers, Steve
        • Ed Johnson
          Well Steve, I have to apologize to the group for using the Fowl language in the forum :-[ but to get back on topic you might just be the person to answer my
          Message 4 of 25 , Mar 4, 2013
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                Well Steve, I have to apologize to the group for using the "Fowl" language in the forum :-[ but to get back on topic you might just be the person to answer my question the best.
            I think one of you may have posted this link; http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=116991
             
            Does anyone see a problem with doing this to my 2001 Trophy 1200 and then using the current + voltage connections to the coils to power the lights on a temp gauge on the left and the lights on a voltmeter on the the right? I've studied the schematics until I'm cross eyed and can't seem to find a flaw in this plan. Am I missing anything? I hear you guys talking about easy starts in cold weather and I'm here in Florida and my bike won't start if it gets down into the 40's F without a jump from the car unless she's been started every day.

            Ed J. 2001Triumph Trophy BBBB
            On 3/4/2013 11:26 AM, gluman3 wrote:
            Obviously I am a better mechanic than speller!  Thanks for pointing out my "fowl" error (that spell checker missed) Ed.  I got a good laugh out of that one!:)
            
            
            
             
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