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Re: Brake Pads

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  • Beardg@xxx.xxx
    In a message dated 1/5/2000 3:26:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, ken.hastie@elfab.co.uk writes:
    Message 1 of 24 , Jan 5, 2000
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      In a message dated 1/5/2000 3:26:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
      ken.hastie@... writes:

      << Believe me, when you ride BSAs as well, you brake with both brakes,
      and your heels are also often digging into the tarmac as well 8=>) >>

      I know the feeling,owning a 1969 TR6R with "great" brakes for it`s time, the
      rear is a must. Even on my new bike I often use the rear for all parking lot
      maneuvers, and also drag the rear during slow speed turns giving me MUCH more
      stability. If the roads are sandy or very wet, the rear is my main man.
      Dave
    • Tony Angco
      ... From: Ken Hastie ... Just for the record it s good to remember that 80% or more of the stopping power is from the front brakes. The rear will only
      Message 2 of 24 , Jan 6, 2000
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        ----- Original Message -----
        From: "Ken Hastie"
        > This is an interesting comment, because I too was somewhat surprised
        > at the number of references on this list to front brake only usage.
        > Perhaps I have spent too many years riding bikes with inadequate (or
        > rather dated) brakes, but I can't think of a time when I use the
        > front brake only (except when pushing off the centre stand).

        Just for the record it's good to remember that 80% or more of the stopping
        power is from the front brakes. The rear will only contribute it's 20% if
        used without locking up the wheel. I use both brakes when hauling the bike
        down from high speeds but for most real life use the front is my choice.

        And Dave states:
        > Even on my new bike I often use the rear for all parking lot
        > maneuvers, and also drag the rear during slow speed turns
        >giving me MUCH more stability. If the roads are sandy or
        >very wet, the rear is my main man.
        This is the rear brakes place in life. Dragging the rear in slow corners
        will give a much more controlled feel to the bike. And in poor traction
        situations using the front is inviting disaster. At speed the rear adds so
        little that using it is almost a waste of foot movement. :^)
        Tony Angco
        <ynotfix@...>
        I never met a motorcycle I didn't like
        I have met a few I wouldn't own.....
        <http://www.wgn.net/~ynotfix/a.htm>
        <http://www.homestead.com/ynotfix/Tonys.html>
      • Ian Taylor
        Just about to launch into new brake pads and want some advice. My dealer/service wizzard puts SBS brake pads on but some folk on the list suggest EBC. Is
        Message 3 of 24 , May 30, 2000
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          Just about to launch into new brake pads and want some advice.

          My dealer/service wizzard puts SBS brake pads on but some folk on the
          list suggest EBC. Is there any difference? Also a dealer in Oz said
          that the EBC Sintered, sinted or however it's spelt, pad was best for
          the front.

          Does the Sintered, sinted or however it's spelt, wear out the rotor
          more quickly as it is harded?

          HELP! please.

          Thanks Ian
        • Keith Ley
          ... I believe my 98 OEM pads said Nissan on the back. Keith _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with
          Message 4 of 24 , May 11, 2003
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            >I wonder which pad company is in their pocket? Nissin? I dont think so
            >their pads are crap. (Although the Hondas find them OK?)


            I believe my '98 OEM pads said "Nissan" on the back.

            Keith

            _________________________________________________________________
            Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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          • taylorguk
            ... I believe my 98 OEM pads said Nissan on the back. I think I ve found a clue to this rapid wear issue: Had my seat off at the weekend, and there on the
            Message 5 of 24 , May 12, 2003
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              --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Ley" <keith_ley@h...> >
              I believe my '98 OEM pads said "Nissan" on the back.


              I think I've found a clue to this rapid wear issue:
              Had my seat off at the weekend, and there on the frame behind the
              radiator expansion tank is an Asbestos warning sticker. This would
              indicate that my "'97 good as new at 10k" pads are the traditional
              asbestos-bearing type.
              In later years - did Triumph change to a non-asbestos pad grade?
              My experience with non-asbestos pads on ABS-braked Fords is they wear
              the discs rapidly, typically 1 set of discs to each 2-3 sets of pads?
              Triumphs obviously don't have ABS, but did they choose a too-soft
              grade to avoid disc problems? I'd rather change pads than discs any
              day!

              Richard T.
            • Dennis Anderson
              I recently ordered pads ( FA236HH for the fronts ) from MAW and someone called me from there telling me they thought I had the wrong ones. She proceeded to ask
              Message 6 of 24 , Jul 6 8:15 PM
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                I recently ordered pads ( FA236HH for the fronts ) from MAW and
                someone called me from there telling me they thought I had the wrong
                ones. She proceeded to ask for my Vin number(SMT361CEX1J120586)and I
                gave it to her. So she shipped FA214HH (left) and FA215HH(right)saying
                that was what I needed because my VIN was pre 4902. Can anyone tell me
                how to determine the 4 digit number she was looking for and do I have
                the right pads. It all seems wrong to me since my bike is a 2001. Help!!!
              • Wal_THO
                The last four numbers are what they are referring to in the VIN. ____________________________________________________ Sell on Yahoo! Auctions – no fees. Bid
                Message 7 of 24 , Jul 6 10:37 PM
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                  The last four numbers are what they are referring to
                  in the VIN.



                  ____________________________________________________
                  Sell on Yahoo! Auctions – no fees. Bid on great items.
                  http://auctions.yahoo.com/
                • Colin Watkins
                  Hi Dennis! Have a look at http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Assets/ebc2005ukmccat.pdf - It s 4Mb so give it time. But it shows practically every brake pad for every
                  Message 8 of 24 , Jul 7 1:43 AM
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                    Hi Dennis!
                    Have a look at http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Assets/ebc2005ukmccat.pdf - It's
                    4Mb so give it time. But it shows practically every brake pad for every
                    bike - ever! Compare your current pads against the description for
                    FA214HH and FA215HH to check if you've got the right ones! (Page 93
                    shows the Triumph configurations! Pages 171 & 172 show the shape and
                    size of FA214 and FA215)
                    Colin

                    '92 Trophy 1200

                    -----Original Message-----
                    From: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
                    [mailto:TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dennis Anderson
                    Sent: 07 July 2005 04:15
                    To: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Brake Pads


                    I recently ordered pads ( FA236HH for the fronts ) from MAW and someone
                    called me from there telling me they thought I had the wrong ones. She
                    proceeded to ask for my Vin number(SMT361CEX1J120586)and I gave it to
                    her. So she shipped FA214HH (left) and FA215HH(right)saying that was
                    what I needed because my VIN was pre 4902. Can anyone tell me how to
                    determine the 4 digit number she was looking for and do I have the right
                    pads. It all seems wrong to me since my bike is a 2001. Help!!!




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                  • Don Johnson
                    Yeah MAW are A**HOLES. When I ordered a set for my 96 I looked on their site but it isn t very clear on the sizes. So I called them and had them look it up.
                    Message 9 of 24 , Jul 7 8:33 AM
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                      Yeah MAW are A**HOLES. When I ordered a set for my 96 I looked on
                      their site but it isn't very clear on the sizes. So I called them and had
                      them look it up. They sent me the two diferent ones which are for early
                      96 and earlier. When I called to tell them they sent the wrong ones.
                      They said it was my falt for not giving them the VIN #. Even though
                      they didn't ask for it. They said " We just take orders."
                      But the right ones are the ones you ordered the FA236's.
                      Now they will charge you a restocking fee and you have to pay
                      shipping back to them. So now those cheep pads just cost you double.
                      And those morons are laughing at you.
                      Sorry for the rant but they really P***ED me off with their attitude.

                      Don
                      Late model 96 1200

                      Subject: Brake Pads

                      I recently ordered pads ( FA236HH for the fronts ) from MAW and
                      someone called me from there telling me they thought I had the wrong
                      ones. She proceeded to ask for my Vin number(SMT361CEX1J120586)and I
                      gave it to her. So she shipped FA214HH (left) and FA215HH(right)saying
                      that was what I needed because my VIN was pre 4902. Can anyone tell me
                      how to determine the 4 digit number she was looking for and do I have
                      the right pads. It all seems wrong to me since my bike is a 2001. Help!!!
                    • Ed Johnson
                      My mechanic has informed me that after only 90,000+ miles my front brake rotors need replacing. [ Of course they do! They cost over $400 so one can only
                      Message 10 of 24 , Jul 1 6:07 AM
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                        My mechanic has informed me that after only 90,000+ miles my front brake
                        rotors need replacing. [ Of course they do! They cost over $400 so one
                        can only imagine the profit margin involved in that and he obviously has
                        rent to pay just like my Dr. has a Mercedes Convertible to pay for! (;-)
                        I have found some replacements on Flea Bay from a low mileage Trophy
                        that I can only hope are in better condition than the ones I have! They
                        only have 30,000 miles on them and cost me only $50!
                        Now the question becomes what are the best brake pads to use? See
                        all kinds of different brands and materials that have me totally baffled
                        as to what they are made of and why they are made of it! What's
                        "sintered"? mean anyway? So far I've come from 80 mph to O in as short
                        of time as I think is feasible for an old geezer like me but being a
                        safety issue I certainly don't want to ignore it.
                        Ed J.
                      • apsllp@bellsouth.net
                        I used EBC pads....have also looked at EBC Rotors for the next time I replace mine Bob ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        Message 11 of 24 , Jul 1 6:18 AM
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                          I used EBC pads....have also looked at EBC Rotors for the next time I
                          replace mine

                          Bob

                          On 7/1/2012 9:07 AM, Ed Johnson wrote:
                          >
                          > My mechanic has informed me that after only 90,000+ miles my front brake
                          > rotors need replacing. [ Of course they do! They cost over $400 so one
                          > can only imagine the profit margin involved in that and he obviously has
                          > rent to pay just like my Dr. has a Mercedes Convertible to pay for! (;-)
                          > I have found some replacements on Flea Bay from a low mileage Trophy
                          > that I can only hope are in better condition than the ones I have! They
                          > only have 30,000 miles on them and cost me only $50!
                          > Now the question becomes what are the best brake pads to use? See
                          > all kinds of different brands and materials that have me totally baffled
                          > as to what they are made of and why they are made of it! What's
                          > "sintered"? mean anyway? So far I've come from 80 mph to O in as short
                          > of time as I think is feasible for an old geezer like me but being a
                          > safety issue I certainly don't want to ignore it.
                          > Ed J.
                          >
                          >



                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        • Mike Stephenson
                          Ed - I have almost exclusively used sintered pads on street or dirt bikes for years now. Basically, they have bits of metal imbedded in them - I think the EBC
                          Message 12 of 24 , Jul 1 7:29 AM
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                            Ed - I have almost exclusively used sintered pads on street or dirt bikes
                            for years now. Basically, they have bits of metal imbedded in them - I
                            think the EBC web site explains the difference. Sintered supposedly last
                            longer, provide solid braking in all conditions. I recently accidently got
                            a set of carbon pads on my dirt bike (screwed up my order!) - only seemed
                            to work when very hot - and forget about them when wet! But, when dry and
                            pads are nice and hot - super powerful. On my Trophy I currently have EBC
                            HH sintered on the rear - front have not had to replace yet. I will most
                            likely do front with EBC HH as well.

                            As to rotors - ask the seller to measure the thickness of the rotors and
                            compare to specs for minimum thickness. And get a clear statement from
                            them about not being warped etc. If from a salvage yard they often have no
                            clue if warped or not. You need someone that has ridden the bike that can
                            attest to that.

                            Another Triumph recently appeared in my garage - actually my son's bike -
                            a 2002 Sprint ST - something of a project bike - that needed front rotors.
                            I bought a used set on Ebay very recently (they shoudl arrive next week).
                            Got them for $49 plus $10 on shipping. Seller measured them - came in at
                            4mm which is a new spec - had 19,000 miles on them. I saw many other pairs
                            selling for much more - a couple others actually showed the measurements in
                            the listing.


                            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          • Mike Stephenson
                            Ed - I have almost exclusively used sintered pads on street or dirt bikes for years now. Basically, they have bits of metal imbedded in them - I think the EBC
                            Message 13 of 24 , Jul 1 7:30 AM
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                              Ed - I have almost exclusively used sintered pads on street or dirt bikes
                              for years now. Basically, they have bits of metal imbedded in them - I
                              think the EBC web site explains the difference. Sintered supposedly last
                              longer, provide solid braking in all conditions. I recently accidently got
                              a set of carbon pads on my dirt bike (screwed up my order!) - only seemed
                              to work when very hot - and forget about them when wet! But, when dry and
                              pads are nice and hot - super powerful. On my Trophy I currently have EBC
                              HH sintered on the rear - front have not had to replace yet. I will most
                              likely do front with EBC HH as well.

                              As to rotors - ask the seller to measure the thickness of the rotors and
                              compare to specs for minimum thickness. And get a clear statement from
                              them about not being warped etc. If from a salvage yard they often have no
                              clue if warped or not. You need someone that has ridden the bike that can
                              attest to that.

                              Another Triumph recently appeared in my garage - actually my son's bike -
                              a 2002 Sprint ST - something of a project bike - that needed front rotors.
                              I bought a used set on Ebay very recently (they shoudl arrive next week).
                              Got them for $49 plus $10 on shipping. Seller measured them - came in at
                              4mm which is a new spec - had 19,000 miles on them. I saw many other pairs
                              selling for much more - a couple others actually showed the measurements in
                              the listing.


                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            • Ed Johnson
                              Thanks Bob; Are they sintered or organic? While I m on a rant today there two things I see today that really irritate me at times. One is Organic and the
                              Message 14 of 24 , Jul 1 7:34 AM
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                                Thanks Bob; Are they sintered or organic? While I'm on a rant today
                                there two things I see today that really irritate me at times. One is
                                "Organic" and the other is "All Natural"! Both imply that because of
                                this they are not only superior but safe as well. There are a lot of
                                things that are "Organic" that will kill you and Dog Poop is "All
                                Natural" but I wouldn't want to eat it!
                                That end my cynicism for today and I'm sure there are a lot of you that
                                are glad to hear that! (;-)
                                Regards
                                Ed J.

                                On 7/1/2012 9:18 AM, apsllp@... wrote:
                                > I used EBC pads....have also looked at EBC Rotors for the next time I
                                > replace mine
                                >
                                > Bob
                                >
                                >
                              • apsllp@bellsouth.net
                                I m with you on that Ed. Even Petroleum is organic. Not that it is healthy for you to ingest. As for Brake Pads. Semi-metallic pads. IE those with
                                Message 15 of 24 , Jul 1 7:50 AM
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                                  I'm with you on that Ed. Even Petroleum is organic. Not that it is
                                  healthy for you to ingest. As for Brake Pads. Semi-metallic pads. IE
                                  those with metallic particles in them (and also Semi-Ceramic) pads are
                                  sintered. My thoughts are that although they provide superior stopping
                                  ability (Because of their tolerance to heat) and don't "Burn" as fast,
                                  something has to be sacrificed. IE if it isn't the pad, it HAS to be
                                  the rotor. Go figure. The reason companies looked for an alternative
                                  material to put into brake pads was that the Asbestos originally added
                                  to the organic compound was deemed hazardous to people and the
                                  environment when it turned into "Brake Dust".

                                  I'd still rather replace Organic "Poop Pads" more often than Rotors.
                                  The Bike manufactures would rather you replace $400.00 rotors more often
                                  and by them from the Stealers.

                                  Yes I ride Hard, But I know my limits and those of my brakes.

                                  Bob Clark
                                • rick
                                  ... Ed, Do yourself a favor and try the Dunlop HH+ sintered pads. HH+ pads in general work really well on the front of the Trophy, with good immediate feel
                                  Message 16 of 24 , Jul 2 3:23 AM
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                                    --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, Ed Johnson <edljohnson2@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > My mechanic has informed me that after only 90,000+ miles my front brake
                                    > rotors need replacing. ... Now the question becomes what are the best brake pads to use?
                                    > Ed J.
                                    >

                                    Ed,

                                    Do yourself a favor and try the Dunlop HH+ sintered pads. HH+ pads in general work really well on the front of the Trophy, with good immediate feel and power when wet. In my experience, the EBC's are ok, but the Dunlops are absolutely the best I have tried. Save the organics and green pads for the rear.

                                    Rick Hartwick
                                  • Greg
                                    Hi Ed, I was looking at those same rotors, glad I didn t bid against you. I did get the rear rotor for my brother. I ve noticed three types of pads. HH,
                                    Message 17 of 24 , Jul 2 10:54 AM
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                                      Hi Ed, I was looking at those same rotors, glad I didn't bid against you. I did get the rear rotor for my brother. I've noticed three types of pads. HH, sintered, and organic. I buy the soft pads, organic. I'd rather wear out pads than rotors. Triumph wants $300 each for front rotors and $200 for the rear rotor.

                                      A while back you asked about the bushings in the fork tubes. My green bike had 85,000 miles when I had the forks apart. The bushings are getting thin and will need replacing soon.
                                      Greg

                                      Ed Johnson wrote:
                                      > I have found some replacements on Flea Bay from a low mileage Trophy
                                      > that I can only hope are in better condition than the ones I have! They
                                      > only have 30,000 miles on them and cost me only $50!
                                      > Now the question becomes what are the best brake pads to use? See
                                      > all kinds of different brands and materials that have me totally baffled
                                      > as to what they are made of and why they are made of it!
                                      > Ed J.
                                      >
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