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RE: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Shimming the Valves.

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  • Kevin W. Dix
    Well, after getting the body damage repaired I found the rear mono shock had been badly damaged from the roof. The nitrogen and oil charge was gone from the
    Message 1 of 17 , Jun 4, 2007
      Well, after getting the body damage repaired I found the rear mono shock had
      been badly damaged from the roof. The nitrogen and oil charge was gone from
      the speed and weight of the impact of the roof, I guess.

      I've sent the shock back to Dave Quinn to be ret'd to England for repair or
      replacement. And I'm going to put the old shock back on for the time being.

      I have to get it back together to get to Americade.

      Kevin



      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Greg Andrews
      Hi Joe, The last two times I ve checked the valves, I didn t need to do any adjustments. The exhaust were all .007 and the intakes were all .005 . Maybe
      Message 2 of 17 , Jun 4, 2007
        Hi Joe,
        The last two times I've checked the valves, I didn't need to do any
        adjustments. The exhaust were all .007" and the intakes were all .005".
        Maybe you'll get lucky and no adjustment needed. When I do the job I
        take the cams out. The biggest PITA was getting the cam cover off and
        on without damaging the gasket.
        Greg Andrews

        "blorf100" wrote:
        Is it possible to do the valves without a tool? Or is it just too much
        of a PITA without it?
        > Joe
      • Smokymtngrl
        Hello all, Thanks for the help so far! I don t know what I d do without you all! I have anew problem for you; I have been having some trouble with the ignition
        Message 3 of 17 , Jun 4, 2007
          Hello all,
          Thanks for the help so far! I don't know what I'd do
          without you all!
          I have anew problem for you; I have been having some
          trouble with the ignition key not wanting to turn in
          the switch. I would just take it out, turn it over and
          reinsert and it would always work. Now my luck has run
          out and the key will go in the switch but will not
          budge. I have tried wd-40 but that is all. Any
          suggestions?

          Thanks,
          Renae



          ____________________________________________________________________________________
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        • bendoccounty
          ... any ... all .005 . ... I ... and ... Greg, Craig from OZ here. If you remove the cams, do you unbolt the cam sprockets and leave them in situ or secure the
          Message 4 of 17 , Jun 4, 2007
            --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Greg Andrews"
            <gandrews2@...> wrote:
            >
            > Hi Joe,
            > The last two times I've checked the valves, I didn't need to do
            any
            > adjustments. The exhaust were all .007" and the intakes were
            all .005".
            > Maybe you'll get lucky and no adjustment needed. When I do the job
            I
            > take the cams out. The biggest PITA was getting the cam cover off
            and
            > on without damaging the gasket.
            > Greg Andrews

            Greg, Craig from OZ here. If you remove the cams, do you unbolt the
            cam sprockets and leave them in situ or secure the chain and remove
            the lot? How hard is it to refit against the valve springs? You're
            right about the cam cover. The other nightmare was trying to get
            the timing cover off. It was glued on very bloody well!
            >
            >
            >
          • bendoccounty
            ... had become worn and wasn t actuating the mechanism in the lock enough. I went to a locksmith and he cut another key more like the original should be and it
            Message 5 of 17 , Jun 4, 2007
              --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, Smokymtngrl <smokymtngrl@...>
              wrote:
              >
              >
              > Hello all,
              > Thanks for the help so far! I don't know what I'd do
              > without you all!
              > I have anew problem for you; I have been having some
              > trouble with the ignition key not wanting to turn in
              > the switch. I would just take it out, turn it over and
              > reinsert and it would always work. Now my luck has run
              > out and the key will go in the switch but will not
              > budge. I have tried wd-40 but that is all. Any
              > suggestions?
              >
              > Thanks,
              > Renae
              >
              > Renae, I had the same problem. I found that the pattern on the key
              had become worn and wasn't actuating the mechanism in the lock
              enough. I went to a locksmith and he cut another key more like the
              original should be and it worked. I now keep an original separate
              and run the bike with a spare so I have one to cut from should the
              need arise. How many did the bike come with? Cheers, Craig from OZ.
              >
              >
              _____________________________________________________________________
              _______________
              > Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your
              story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
              > http://sims.yahoo.com/
              >
            • Smokymtngrl
              ... How many did the bike come with? Cheers, ... I only have the one ignition key and the key for the luggage. I am still relieved as this gives me hope that I
              Message 6 of 17 , Jun 4, 2007
                --- bendoccounty <bendoccounty@...> wrote:
                How many did the bike come with? Cheers,
                > Craig from OZ.


                I only have the one ignition key and the key for the
                luggage. I am still relieved as this gives me hope
                that I may not have to shell out the $200.00 for a new
                switch. I'll call a locksmith tomorrow! Thanks so
                much!
                Renae



                ____________________________________________________________________________________
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              • Ross
                The luggage, seat, and ignition should be the same key unless someone has replaced one of the locks.
                Message 7 of 17 , Jun 5, 2007
                  The luggage, seat, and ignition should be the same key unless someone
                  has replaced one of the locks.
                • Greg Boss
                  No, no on WD-40 an otherwise very useful compound. On locks always use graphite. Why? WD-40 and other liquids tend to attract and keep grit, dirt etc.
                  Message 8 of 17 , Jun 5, 2007
                    No, no on WD-40 an otherwise very useful compound.
                    On locks always use graphite.
                    Why?
                    WD-40 and other liquids tend to attract and keep grit, dirt etc.
                    Graphite, being dry, does not have that tendency.



                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Greg Andrews
                    Hi Craig, It s been a few days, have you completed the job yet? Keep the cam and sprocket attached. You do have a Haynes manual don t you? When you put it back
                    Message 9 of 17 , Jun 6, 2007
                      Hi Craig,
                      It's been a few days, have you completed the job yet? Keep the cam and
                      sprocket attached. You do have a Haynes manual don't you? When you put
                      it back together have the lines the the cam sprockets lined up right,
                      and the cam chain with no slack no the front of the block. How off were
                      the valve clearances? Not that it matters, I'm just curious.
                      Greg Andrews


                      "bendoccounty" wrote:
                      If you remove the cams, do you unbolt the cam sprockets and leave them
                      in situ or secure the chain and remove the lot? How hard is it to refit
                      against the valve springs?
                    • bendoccounty
                      ... and ... put ... right, ... were ... Greg, I haven t got to it yet. Just for your info, I have two inlets at.08mm(003inch), spec, 0.10-.15 and one exhaust
                      Message 10 of 17 , Jun 6, 2007
                        --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Greg Andrews"
                        <gandrews2@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > Hi Craig,
                        > It's been a few days, have you completed the job yet? Keep the cam
                        and
                        > sprocket attached. You do have a Haynes manual don't you? When you
                        put
                        > it back together have the lines the the cam sprockets lined up
                        right,
                        > and the cam chain with no slack no the front of the block. How off
                        were
                        > the valve clearances? Not that it matters, I'm just curious.
                        > Greg Andrews
                        >
                        Greg, I haven't got to it yet. Just for your info, I have two
                        inlets at.08mm(003inch), spec, 0.10-.15 and one exhaust at .13
                        (005inch), spec, .15-.20. I know they give specs for a reason but
                        I'm wondering whether I should pursue the job with those
                        measurements. I'm interested in your and anyone else's opinion. I
                        initially ordered the shim tool and am still waiting 3 weeks later.
                        I think the dealer wants me to drive three hours there. I have told
                        them the thing is apart so that won't happen. No absolute urgency as
                        I'm still awaiting the return of the fairing(s) after the accident.
                        If you suggest that it is easy enough and should be done anyway with
                        the readings I've provided, I'll go ahead. Cheers, Craig from OZ.
                        >
                        >
                      • Ross
                        What range of feeler gauges do you have? My sets all jumped from .005 to .008 , so the best I could do was a go or no-go . One of my exhaust valves was
                        Message 11 of 17 , Jun 7, 2007
                          What range of feeler gauges do you have? My sets all jumped from .005"
                          to .008", so the best I could do was a "go" or "no-go". One of my
                          exhaust valves was "go" at .005" but "no-go" with the .008". I decided
                          to let it be. It was running fine.
                        • bendoccounty
                          ... from .005 ... decided ... would think with good quality oil and liquid cooling it wouldn t be an issue. They would, I suppose, design these things for the
                          Message 12 of 17 , Jun 8, 2007
                            --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Ross" <rcollord@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > What range of feeler gauges do you have? My sets all jumped
                            from .005"
                            > to .008", so the best I could do was a "go" or "no-go". One of my
                            > exhaust valves was "go" at .005" but "no-go" with the .008". I
                            decided
                            > to let it be. It was running fine.
                            >Ross, I would think the tolerance is to allow for heat expansion. One
                            would think with good quality oil and liquid cooling it wouldn't be an
                            issue. They would, I suppose, design these things for the guy that
                            rings its neck all the time and doesn't change the oil often enough.
                            I'm leaning towards leaving it alone also, but as I've got the cover
                            off and have read up on removing the cams, now's the time to do or not
                            do. Cheers, Craig from OZ.
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