[TriumphTrophy] Re: Brake Rotors
- "The 'Busa calipers went on tonight, never mind the
ridge on the rotor. They bolted right on, as
advertised. The pads are the ones that came with
Where did you get your Busa calipers?
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- --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, Steve Wassenich <wassensf@e...>
> 358 for a pair is simply astonishing. When I go backSteve,
> Friday, I'll ask them to double-check it.
> Steve W.
Don't wait to order them at that price; if you are planning to keep the
bike, you will need them eventually!
PS: Try not to perform to many stoppies...
- Randall Rolling asked:
> Where did you get your Busa calipers?eBay. Cost was 85 bucks and change for the pair, including shipping.
There are usually one or two sets available at any given time.
- Wal_THO wrote:
> I have only bought a replacement rear rotor from EBC.Thanks for the warning; I'll probably get the Triumph rotors.
> It cost $50 USD less than triumph, approx. $140 USD,
> however the replacement looks like crap, functions
> fine but looks cheap. However the cost works out buy
> the Triumph replacement.
- My front brake rotors need replacing - according to the service limit
in my Haynes manual. Anyone found a good cheap source?
Also, I just finished a major service but was stymied when it came to
dismantelling the steering head. It has a pair of 39mm locknuts - well
beyond any wrenches I have around - and you need two of them! Has
anybody undertaken this task?? Must be right up there in popularity
with the swing arm lube.
- --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "irbdfx" <Ian_Bardsley@...> wrote:
>>... Also, I just finished a major service but was stymied when itcame to
> dismantelling the steering head. It has a pair of 39mm locknuts - wellIan,
> beyond any wrenches I have around - and you need two of them!
Yup - you need two of them. They are just simple flat steel pieces,
about 1/8" thick. They are more or less standard items, although I
think I purchased my set from Triumph. They are worth having around
the the shop, or you can borrow a pair from someone. You could also
cut your own out of flat steel without too much trouble.
I found that when adjusting the steering head, after you get it just
right, back it off about another 1/8th of a turn or so, then tighten
the 2nd locking nut. When you tighten the top cap nut, you will find
it tightens up the bearings a little bit. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3
tries before the whole assembly ends up with the desired pre-load.
The forks should swing side to side with no resistance, but they
shouldn't be loose either. It's a job well worth doing, and taking
some time with, as it obviously has a real effect on handling.
Anyway, the wrenches are a good investment, I think, and any large
bike shop should stock them.
00 Trophy 900