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Re: [TopHive] Bars

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  • coyote@acrec.com
    Pine should be fine, but make the bars thicker. Three quarter stock is really pretty thin stuff for this purpose, and I m not surprised to hear they warped.
    Message 1 of 6 , Sep 18, 2012
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      Pine should be fine, but make the bars thicker. Three quarter stock is
      really pretty thin stuff for this purpose, and I'm not surprised to hear
      they warped. Mine are out of 2-by cedar, and they haven't warped in 2
      years of use.

      If you want to get fancy about it, check the warped bars -- did they
      have honey comb or brood comb on them? Were they "plain sawn" or
      "quarter sawn" stock? Thinner, plain sawn bars with honey are most
      likely to warp, all other things being equal.

      Counting combs is not be an accurate way to gauge honey stores -- comb
      sizes can vary quite a bit, since there's no standardization of TBH
      designs. What did you do for your Langs? If your method worked, apply it
      to your TBHs. I err on the side of caution and harvest in late spring
      through mid summer. In late summer and fall, I let the bees have all the
      honey they can store. If the hive is full, that's great.

      --DeeAnna

      On 9/18/2012 9:01 AM, robbie46 wrote:
      > Good morning folks,
      > I have a question about the top bars. I made mine out of 3/4' pine and have found some that have warped. What is the best wood to make the bars from?
      >
      > I live in NC Arkansas where the temp might get down to 0 F a couple of times during the winter. Most of the time is is in the 30's or 40's. How many combs will the bees need to make it until spring?
      >
      > I am so impressed with the TBH that I sold all my langs this week and will be building three more TBH's this winter.
      >
      > Thanks, Robbie
      >
      >
      >
      > ------------------------------------
      >
      > The group archive and other pages can be accessed at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TopHive
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
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      >
    • Barry Jackson
      Hi Robbie I suggest you make your bars 1 inch deep, don t smooth them (rough sawn is ok) Some folks have them 1 and three eights wide (35mm) and for honey 13/4
      Message 2 of 6 , Sep 18, 2012
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        Hi Robbie
        I suggest you make your bars 1 inch deep, don't smooth them (rough sawn is
        ok) Some folks have them 1 and three eights wide (35mm) and for honey 13/4
        inches (44mm). At your temperatures be careful when handling honey bars,
        because they will be fragile.
        Best Wishes
        Barry



        On 18 September 2012 15:03, Arshad Farooqui <jhangfk@...> wrote:

        > **
        >
        >
        > Please send some pictures of You TBH, Pinewood is ok for making bars.
        >
        > --- On Tue, 18/9/12, robbie46 <robbie46@...> wrote:
        >
        > From: robbie46 <robbie46@...>
        > Subject: [TopHive] Bars
        > To: TopHive@yahoogroups.com
        > Date: Tuesday, 18 September, 2012, 15:01
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > Good morning folks,
        > I have a question about the top bars. I made mine out of 3/4' pine and
        > have found some that have warped. What is the best wood to make the bars
        > from?
        >
        > I live in NC Arkansas where the temp might get down to 0 F a couple of
        > times during the winter. Most of the time is is in the 30's or 40's. How
        > many combs will the bees need to make it until spring?
        >
        > I am so impressed with the TBH that I sold all my langs this week and will
        > be building three more TBH's this winter.
        >
        > Thanks, Robbie
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
        >
        >


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Jim Payne
        Bees sometimes even harvest the pitch. Often hive up in oak trees. . They like fruit tree pollen so fruit tree wood would probably be like. My thinking anyway.
        Message 3 of 6 , Sep 18, 2012
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          Bees sometimes even harvest the pitch. Often hive up in oak trees. . They like fruit tree pollen so fruit tree wood would probably be like. My thinking anyway.

          Jim P


          ----- Original Message -----
          From: Arshad Farooqui
          To: TopHive@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 9:03 AM
          Subject: Re: [TopHive] Bars



          Please send some pictures of You TBH, Pinewood is ok for making bars.

          --- On Tue, 18/9/12, robbie46 <robbie46@...> wrote:

          From: robbie46 <robbie46@...>
          Subject: [TopHive] Bars
          To: TopHive@yahoogroups.com
          Date: Tuesday, 18 September, 2012, 15:01



          Good morning folks,
          I have a question about the top bars. I made mine out of 3/4' pine and have found some that have warped. What is the best wood to make the bars from?

          I live in NC Arkansas where the temp might get down to 0 F a couple of times during the winter. Most of the time is is in the 30's or 40's. How many combs will the bees need to make it until spring?

          I am so impressed with the TBH that I sold all my langs this week and will be building three more TBH's this winter.

          Thanks, Robbie

          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Blaine Nay
          I have 3/4 pine top bars in my three top bar hives and they are working just fine. To avoid warping, twisting, or cupping, it s important to start with
          Message 4 of 6 , Sep 19, 2012
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            I have 3/4" pine top bars in my three top bar hives and they are
            working just fine. To avoid warping, twisting, or cupping, it's
            important to start with well-dried lumber (kiln dried is fine) that
            has very straight grain and no knots. Chose lumber with grain that
            indicates it did not come from near the center of the tree. I like to
            see the tree's growth rings nearly straight.

            If your top-bar hive is long (most seem to be about 40-48" long) I'd
            recommend the same criteria given above for the hive sides and cover.
            Knots, etc. in the ends are not a big deal, but warping and twisting
            in the long sides could result in your top bars and cover not fitting
            properly.

            As for winter stores, a colony here in the mountains of Utah (I'm at
            5,900' elevation) should have around 9-10 deep Langstroth frames full
            of honey at the end of the last nectar flow in mid September (here,
            that's rabbitbrush). A full deep Langstroth frame caries about 7
            pounds of honey, so that's 60-70 pounds of honey. Local *successful*
            beekeepers can give you a better number for your area than can I.
            You'll need a bit less in areas with shorter winters such as Arkansas.
            Since top-par combs vary widely due to no standardization of bar and
            hive size, you'll need to know how much honey your combs carry. My top
            bars are sized to fit in a Langstroth hive, so they're a bit longer
            than most top bars. Because the hive sides are sloped, the combs carry
            less than a Langstroth frame -- about 6 pounds. So, I leave them with
            10-11 combs of honey.

            The most important thing to know is that leaving more stores than they
            need causes no harm whatsoever. Leaving them short on stores results
            in the death of the colony and wastes what honey the consumed before
            they died. If they're short on stores, either plan of feeding them to
            get through the winter or take all the honey, snuff the colony, and
            start over in the spring.

            Most winter-kills are not due to temperature -- but to starvation.
            They can actually starve with adequate stores in the hive. During cold
            spells, the bees won't move around the hive to find scattered spots of
            honey, So, all the honey needs to be located together so that the bees
            don't need to break the cluster to move to where the honey is.

            After nearly 50 years of stewardship up to 40 colonies (currently only
            12), I've lost less than a half-dozen colonies to Old Man Winter.
            Adequate stores, and strong colonies is the key.

            Blaine Nay
            www.ironbee.us



            > Posted by: "robbie46" robbie46@... robbie46
            > Date: Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:01 am ((PDT))
            >
            > Good morning folks,
            > I have a question about the top bars. I made mine out of 3/4' pine and have found some that have warped. What is the best wood to make the bars from?
            >
            > I live in NC Arkansas where the temp might get down to 0 F a couple of times during the winter. Most of the time is is in the 30's or 40's. How many combs will the bees need to make it until spring?
            >
            > I am so impressed with the TBH that I sold all my langs this week and will be building three more TBH's this winter.
            >
            > Thanks, Robbie
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