>Based out of the UK I believe.http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/warrebeekeeping/
True. Many US types tho; several far far away as well.
Spawned a small Canadian list, recently....
> Other than that I wear a man's longsleeve white shirt with the cuffs
over the glove ends.
I like the orange long Home Depot $3 "stripper" gloves over my sleeves.
Can grab & pull easier if I get stung. Though of late, no stings so
no gloves, etc.
>I'm surprised to note that no one remarked on the question of whether a
top bar hive should be level...
>No experience with the issue, I've only ever set mine as level as I
could, but I have read many warnings to set a top bar hive quite level,
and have been musing over the whys of those warnings.
-- Christy Hemenway
>The comb needs to be plum to the topbar and vertical to gravity so the combs can
be spun 180 degrees if need be and still maintain bee space.
Bob Benson, SMA Bee Wranglers
- OR -
What is: "Violates Housel Positioning..."
Why disturb what they have done?
If the floor is sloped, it needn't be forwards, it can be a steeper
slope if to one side. And the whole hive can be tilted and the comb
still plumb with the TB, or, you can merely cut 1/4" off 1 side
and slope the floor to one side.
I will keep my Warré plumb, and make a floor below that is shimmed
to slope a bit. Side walk spec is 1/4" per foot. Easy for 1 ft. For
a long hTBH, that's a whole inch. Side to
side if a hTBH has a 1 ft
wide floor (and many are a mere 4-6") that is a mere 1/4" or less.
And TBs remain plumb to the top bar, for those who turn TBs around.
You do force the beespace to lessen a minor amount, when you tilt
an entire hTBH rear to front. Or, comb must become thinner. It's
hardly very much though. But turn a TB around ?!?
Each to their own. I figure, the bees to their own, too. So did
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