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Steve's new Tanzanial and CalKeyan 4 underway - Copy to the group

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  • Leonard and Anita at AT&T BI
    Note to list - see Steve s new hive at http://www.xscd.com/tbh/ I don t think I can eliminate the longitudinal elements as proposed below, at least for this
    Message 1 of 1 , Apr 14, 2002
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      Note to list - see Steve's new hive at "http://www.xscd.com/tbh/"

      I don't think I can eliminate the longitudinal elements as proposed below,
      at least for this go-around.

      Greetings Steve:

      I am posting this to the list also as we are getting into areas of potential
      general interest.

      Concerning your concerns about honey flow:

      If you have the exotic "star thisle" rangeland pest plant you may find a
      substantial flow of green colored honey in late Summer - I have heard that
      it is quite tasty. We have that here as an invasive pest from central asia
      and we are attempting to control it with an imported wapsp that is specific
      to it.

      Concerning your hive:

      Another thought - the "attic" could contain some kind of shallow western
      super with standard frames if you wanted to extract honey. This can be a
      very efficient way of producing honey if you use a centrufugal extractor and
      reuse the extracted comb. You will need a queen excluder, of course.

      My CalKeyan Four:

      CK4 is underway (Sat Afternoon) and will be a 22.5 degree (from vertical)
      Kenyan with the advanced features. I am hoping that this angle will reduce
      or eliminate adhesions. This will incude polystyrene hanging bars
      (anti-swarm bars) from lighting fixture grid and the ends will be made from
      1x12 pine board, legs from 2x4, inner and outer sides from corugated
      polyethylene, and box cardboard insulation. I am attempting to eliminate
      longitudinal wood elements at these appear to cause buckling of the
      polyethylene when it gets hot, so this next hive will be a stressed skin
      design. CK5 will likely include some of your ideas for the attic while
      continuing the Tazanian theme and current materials.

      For the list:

      there is no standard for bar length - I propose a 22 inch interior span on a
      24 inch nominal bar (four bars out of an 8 foot piece of stock) - this so
      bars can be moved between hives. Any thoughts on this? The Langsroth frames
      are sized to fit a 19th century wood soap box (the kind that park and street
      orators could stand on).

      Following communication with Steve is included for background to the group:

      _________

      NOTE NEW ISP AND RETURN ADDRESS (elgeebee@...) - earthlink dies on Apr
      18th.

      Greetings:

      This looks good. I'll link to your site.

      What changes would you make on the next one?

      I requeened last Saturday with a non-virgin Russian (a black bee) from Tabor
      (honeybeegenetics.com). Suposedly resistant to varroa due to grooming
      behavior. PETA is right - honey is not vegan! (My neighbor crushed the old
      queen on the new queen cage.)

      I'll start CK4 on Sunday. My bees are running out of room!

      Leonard.

      _________ ALSO

      Greetings Steve:

      A couple of things I noticed while looking at the pictures.

      It appears that you have no partition to regulate the volume of the hive.
      Reducing the volume can help a small number of bees keep warm, important
      when starting from a small swarm or pakaged bees (which will loose
      population initially). (I assume that even in this season it will get quite
      cold at night in your locale.) Also, you will need enough working space when
      opening the hive to cut adhesions and some free space to place inspecded
      bars, so it is a good idea to have some partitioned free space, even with a
      full hive.

      Although the queen is suposed to keep brood near the entrance mine layed
      brood far to the back (probably due to lack of free comb in the brood
      region). To prevent this I included an excluder partition and add empty bars
      on each side of the brood region. In your case, the exclusion would also
      have to extend above the bar into the top gallery.

      Good luck with your bees!

      Leonard.

      _________

      Leonard.

      > From: Steve Doonan <xscd@...>
      > Reply-To: xscd@...
      > Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 12:36:19 -0600
      > To: Leonard and Anita at AT&T BI <landabee@...>
      > Subject: Re: TBH
      >
      > On Friday 12 April 2002 07:58 pm, Leonard and Anita at AT&T BI wrote:
      >> Greetings Steve:
      >>
      >> Another way to keep them warm would be to add an inner top cover over the
      >> upper screen. The partition could extend above the top line of bars to
      >> extend to the screen.
      >>
      >
      > ---
      >
      > Hello Leonard--
      >
      > Thank you for your suggestion. I had planned for variable
      > ventilation by placing a piece of plywood inside the
      > "attic" (ventilation chamber) of the hive, directly
      > on top of the divider board. That way I could cover or
      > uncover as much of the ventilation screen as I wanted,
      > depending on the weather. When it's cold I'll probably
      > close it down almost all the way to limit heat loss
      > from the bee cluster.
      >
      > We're going to make a movable false wall, as you suggested,
      > to place in the hive to increase or decrease the
      > living space of the bees, and to give me some room to
      > work (removing attached comb, etc.). My only fear now
      > is that the hive body may not be big enough for a good
      > sized colony of bees. However, there is not much honey
      > flow in this region I don't think (because it is hot
      > and dry--usually less than 13 inches of rain per year),
      > so the bees may not need any more space than the hive
      > provides.
      >
      > Best wishes,
      >
      > Steve
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