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1601Re: [TopHive] Top Bar Hives and the State of Florida

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  • OOWONBS@Netscape.net
    Apr 10 7:12 PM
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      Posted by: "jeff hartman
      John Missing wrote:
      >> 1) Can I use the Langs, but use top bars instead of frames?
      ****
      >i don't think just using top bars would work in such a wide box, but
      they do sell foundationless frames
      ***********************
      It has been done...!
      And you could turn the TB's, short way. Or not. I would.

      >>2) If I am doing that, can I manage them like a Warre hive,
      >>adding boxes to the bottom rather than the top?
      ****
      >yes you could, but why not just build some warre hives. they can be
      made
      legal in the united states by use of frames, or just do what i am doing
      and not register them. they really are the most natural and bee
      friendly
      hive there is

      Some Langoliers <lol> ARE subbering Langs.

      And... some subber, normal with a Warre' (nadir, opposite of super,)
      But some Ware's, super, or do so to a degree, and/or midder.

      It seems timing is important in a super or midder issue, as this is
      thought to incraese disease strtesses, except when the space is
      in great need, so flows need to be accounted for with this
      "advanced-type" action.

      ****
      4) How can I
      > strengthen the comb on a top bar in order that they can be handled
      for
      > inspection?

      No need at all. You merely hold comb vertically, upside right or down,
      and not out flat like a full dinner plate. Non-issue.

      ****
      >snippet...with warres you can use half frames or stainless
      steel wire like in roger delons warre hives
      -http://warre.biobees.com/delon.htm-

      > Posted by: "Michael Vanecek"
      TTBH hives are often made wide and deep enough to take a deep frame.
      They'll work fine with just top-bars. BUT, they're too short. 10 frames
      will fill up in no time and suddenly you've got swarming and no honey.

      Uh, this I misunderstand, or it is not a lang, "deep." as a Warre is
      about 8" deep, plus 1/2" for frame (top bar) space. One usually starts
      with 2, Warre' boxes. Or gets the 2nd one, soon. A thrid is usually a
      spring thing. A 4th is if you had good luck. Few exceed that. They
      ARE a "small hive type." production is limited a couple ways. Some
      DO use them in production, in Europe.

      >The best way to go with that is a long-hive of about 50 top-bars and a
      follower-board. That way the hive can expand as it needs. <snip>
      Also, give Warre a consideration, especially if further north.
      >Mike

      John, as I, am in it for pollination, ahead of great globs of honey
      production. I very seriously looked at the "common" hTBH.
      I gradually came over to Warre'.

      Different cars for different uses/needs for different folks.
      For the artist or anal, some oif us are looking at Warre's in a hex
      or octagon, closer to a tree cavity. Except for art, or stealth, this
      more benefits those in very cold places, it is felt. However,
      a guy in hungary is basing a whole enterprise on a hex-Warre'
      variant; (a "Gedde," technically.)

      BillSF9c
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