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Re: The bustle-building blues...

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  • costumegoddess777
    Yes, I built a bustle one time by cartridge pleating crinoline and it worked beautifully, looked lovely and took FOREVER it seemed like...but maybe if you just
    Message 1 of 3 , Jul 14, 2005
      Yes, I built a bustle one time by cartridge pleating crinoline and
      it worked beautifully, looked lovely and took FOREVER it seemed
      like...but maybe if you just want to bustle up the train at some
      point? Once I did a wedding dress and I put piping at the waist seam
      (well, really it was at the hip area) and under the lip of the
      piping I sewed a row of tiny buttons spaced about an inch or so
      apart. I then sewed small loops, using a buttonhole stitch so that
      they would be strong and secure, along the bottom edge of the train.
      I placed those about every 5-7" apart along the edge of the train
      and they looked like tiny scallops. Then after the wedding and for
      the reception, the loops were buttoned up onto the waist seam and
      viola, a bustle! The spacing of the loops would depend on how wide
      the train was and how gathered up you wanted the end result.

      I hope this helps, or at least gives you some ideas!

      Contessa
      (the Shakespeare one)



      --- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, Curtis Kidd
      <gckidd@y...> wrote:
      > > From: "~lisa.s" <llsturts@g...>
      > > Subject: Wedding dress help
      > >
      > > A colleague has had one of those "wedding dress from
      > > hell" episodes and
      > > I've agreed to bail her out. Can any one offer guidance
      > > as to how to rig
      > > bustling the train?
      >
      > Never built a bustle, myself, and the one costume I've
      > worked with that had one was actually, I thought, quite a
      > simple solution. Basically, the designer built a 'cage'
      > using Rigilene. Relatively quick, relatively easy (the one
      > thing on that outfit that WAS quick and easy). I'd imagine
      > you could probably accomplish the same effect with
      > crinoline (especially if it was cartridge pleated--but that
      > is definitely NOT quick, and I don't consider it
      > particularly easy, either. It does look very cool, though,
      > especially under light-weight fabrics that would show the
      > framework if you used the rigilene option...)
    • Cat Devereaux
      ... piping I sewed a row of tiny buttons spaced about an inch or so apart. I then sewed small loops, using a buttonhole stitch so that they would be strong and
      Message 2 of 3 , Jul 14, 2005
        >> and under the lip of the
        piping I sewed a row of tiny buttons spaced about an inch or so
        apart. I then sewed small loops, using a buttonhole stitch so that
        they would be strong and secure, along the bottom edge of the train.

        I like to "bustle up" the train in a bit of a different way... given I never
        trust the bride to be careful of the fabric and the bottom is often
        decorated heavily.

        Most gowns will have multiple seams in the back. I like to put the small
        loops at the seam about 1/3 of the way down... and yes, I hid the buttons in
        the same way where I can... or under the bow or ribbons or whatever.
        Anyway. I reinforce the seam area where the loop will be even with it at
        the seam. I'd rather have the button loop tear out then the fabric.

        First, I determine how far down by taking pinches of the back of the gown
        and figuring out where to pull up the fabric so that the bottom hem is true
        to the ground all the way around.

        Once the bottom looks good, it then figure out where I need the buttons to
        be place to make the top bustle pretty. A center back(OK, right off center
        of the zipper) button is the first place. It may be at waist line... though
        sometimes it can work lower depending on the shape of the gown and the
        person's shape. You may have to pin in the side seams as well, but the
        button still goes ore towards the back. You just play and drape...
        everything depends on the fabric and style of the dress and how it hangs on
        the bride. There's not one placement.

        -Cat-
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