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Re: [TheCostumersManifesto] Underlinings

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  • K Murphy
    Hi: I tend to avoid fused underlinings when at all possible, because although they stabilize your fabric, they also can cause huge problems if/when they
    Message 1 of 5 , May 1 7:43 AM
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      Hi:

      I tend to avoid fused underlinings when at all possible, because although they stabilize your fabric, they also can cause huge problems if/when they seperate (usually from continued wear and/or cleaning/pressing).

      If this was my project, I would flatline each bodice piece with a medium weight, plain weave, 100% cotton fabric (prewashed, dryer-dried, and pressed with steam) in a similiar shade to the face fabric. I usually make the flatline stitching 1/8" inside the stitching line so that it won't show. Sometimes (depending on the face fabric) I roll the pieces of a fitted bodice over a tailors ham to "build in" the natural curve of the body and eliminate puckering on the inside of the curve.

      If you haven't already bought the poly lining, I'd switch it to a lightweight cotton or cotton/poly blend, just for comfort against the skin in July's heat!

      Best of luck whatever you decide to do --

      Kate Murphy

      tjchatham <tjchatham@...> wrote:
      I have a question about underlining for a couple of brocade bustiers.
      Ordinarily, I'd underline using a woven medium weight iron-on
      interfacing on all seven of the pieces, but I'm hesitant to use an
      iron-on with a "raised" fabric like brocade. These bustiers are going
      to be very "fitted" and lined with a lightweight polyester lining.
      There is also boning in every one of the six seams of the "princess"
      styled bustiers that goes into the lining. They are to be worn in and
      out of doors in July heat and humidity, so I'd like to keep things as
      lightweight as possible, but give them a good "well constructed"
      look. Any suggestions for an interlining that would work well here?
      The brocade is a silver and black rayon fabric with a "raised" scroll
      pattern.
      Tess


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    • tjchatham
      ... although they stabilize your fabric, they also can cause huge problems if/when they seperate (usually from continued wear and/or cleaning/pressing). ...
      Message 2 of 5 , May 3 9:25 AM
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        --- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, K Murphy
        <costumerkate@y...> wrote:
        > Hi:
        >
        > I tend to avoid fused underlinings when at all possible, because
        although they stabilize your fabric, they also can cause huge
        problems if/when they seperate (usually from continued wear and/or
        cleaning/pressing).
        >
        > If this was my project, I would flatline each bodice piece with a
        medium weight, plain weave, 100% cotton fabric (prewashed, dryer-
        dried, and pressed with steam) in a similiar shade to the face
        fabric. I usually make the flatline stitching 1/8" inside the
        stitching line so that it won't show. Sometimes (depending on the
        face fabric) I roll the pieces of a fitted bodice over a tailors ham
        to "build in" the natural curve of the body and eliminate puckering
        on the inside of the curve.
        >
        > If you haven't already bought the poly lining, I'd switch it to a
        lightweight cotton or cotton/poly blend, just for comfort against the
        skin in July's heat!
        >
        > Best of luck whatever you decide to do --
        >
        > Kate Murphy
        >
        Thanks, Kate (and Patricia and Fiona too),
        I think I will go with a soft lightweight cotton lining for the
        bustiers and look for some kind of cotton for the interlining also. I
        also do have my pressing ham ready to round out the front/side front
        seams of the "princess" bodice as I sew these seams together. These
        are bridesmaids bustiers and the poly lining has already been
        purchased for these and their "silver" satin skirts, but I think I'll
        use it in the skirts and line the bustiers in a soft black or dk grey
        batiste. The bride's satin gown (a Mori Lee) is lined with a poly
        taffeta and interlined with a cotton fabric that looks just like
        buckram and it has some "body," but without the stiff starchiness of
        buckram. Don't know what it is and can't locate anything like it in
        the stores, but I can locate all sorts of 100% quilting type
        cottons... in greys or black that would do, I guess. My favorite 100%
        cotton is called Kona cotton.... soft and with LOTs of body. Now, if
        I could only get those girls to get their butts over here to try on
        their "muslins" for a fitting so I can "tweek" the pattern pieces and
        start cutting out the brocades and satins!!! Weddings are always a
        BITCH to sew for.... ever the worst when it's your own daughter's!!!
        Tess
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