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RE: [TheCostumersManifesto] Underlinings

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  • Fionna O'Leary
    I concur with Patricia. I use natural fibers, (ie cotton, silk or wool) whenever possible, especially around the body. I d rather have more or heavier layers
    Message 1 of 5 , May 1 7:26 AM
      I concur with Patricia. I use natural fibers, (ie cotton, silk or wool) whenever possible, especially around the body. I'd rather have more or heavier layers of a natural fiber that breath and wick than a thin layer of manmade that looks pretty and acts like a plastic bag in the heat and humidity.

      Fionna

      Ken & Patricia <krich2@...> wrote:
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: tjchatham [mailto:tjchatham@...]
      > Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 3:23 PM
      > To: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
      > Subject: [TheCostumersManifesto] Underlinings
      >
      > I have a question about underlining for a couple of >brocade bustiers. Ordinarily, I'd underline using a >woven medium weight iron-on interfacing on all seven of >the pieces, but I'm hesitant to use an iron-on with a >"raised" fabric like brocade. These bustiers are going >to be very "fitted" and lined with a lightweight >polyester lining. There is also boning in every one of >the six seams of the "princess" styled bustiers that >goes into the lining. They are to be worn in and out of >doors in July heat and humidity, so I'd like to keep >things as lightweight as possible, but give them
      > a good "well constructed" look. Any suggestions for an >interlining that would work well here? The brocade is a >silver and black rayon fabric with a "raised" scroll >pattern. Tess


      I use cotton duck or heavy weight linen. I make corsets though. Patricia


      Fionna O'Leary... the Wayward Wench
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    • K Murphy
      Hi: I tend to avoid fused underlinings when at all possible, because although they stabilize your fabric, they also can cause huge problems if/when they
      Message 2 of 5 , May 1 7:43 AM
        Hi:

        I tend to avoid fused underlinings when at all possible, because although they stabilize your fabric, they also can cause huge problems if/when they seperate (usually from continued wear and/or cleaning/pressing).

        If this was my project, I would flatline each bodice piece with a medium weight, plain weave, 100% cotton fabric (prewashed, dryer-dried, and pressed with steam) in a similiar shade to the face fabric. I usually make the flatline stitching 1/8" inside the stitching line so that it won't show. Sometimes (depending on the face fabric) I roll the pieces of a fitted bodice over a tailors ham to "build in" the natural curve of the body and eliminate puckering on the inside of the curve.

        If you haven't already bought the poly lining, I'd switch it to a lightweight cotton or cotton/poly blend, just for comfort against the skin in July's heat!

        Best of luck whatever you decide to do --

        Kate Murphy

        tjchatham <tjchatham@...> wrote:
        I have a question about underlining for a couple of brocade bustiers.
        Ordinarily, I'd underline using a woven medium weight iron-on
        interfacing on all seven of the pieces, but I'm hesitant to use an
        iron-on with a "raised" fabric like brocade. These bustiers are going
        to be very "fitted" and lined with a lightweight polyester lining.
        There is also boning in every one of the six seams of the "princess"
        styled bustiers that goes into the lining. They are to be worn in and
        out of doors in July heat and humidity, so I'd like to keep things as
        lightweight as possible, but give them a good "well constructed"
        look. Any suggestions for an interlining that would work well here?
        The brocade is a silver and black rayon fabric with a "raised" scroll
        pattern.
        Tess


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      • tjchatham
        ... although they stabilize your fabric, they also can cause huge problems if/when they seperate (usually from continued wear and/or cleaning/pressing). ...
        Message 3 of 5 , May 3 9:25 AM
          --- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, K Murphy
          <costumerkate@y...> wrote:
          > Hi:
          >
          > I tend to avoid fused underlinings when at all possible, because
          although they stabilize your fabric, they also can cause huge
          problems if/when they seperate (usually from continued wear and/or
          cleaning/pressing).
          >
          > If this was my project, I would flatline each bodice piece with a
          medium weight, plain weave, 100% cotton fabric (prewashed, dryer-
          dried, and pressed with steam) in a similiar shade to the face
          fabric. I usually make the flatline stitching 1/8" inside the
          stitching line so that it won't show. Sometimes (depending on the
          face fabric) I roll the pieces of a fitted bodice over a tailors ham
          to "build in" the natural curve of the body and eliminate puckering
          on the inside of the curve.
          >
          > If you haven't already bought the poly lining, I'd switch it to a
          lightweight cotton or cotton/poly blend, just for comfort against the
          skin in July's heat!
          >
          > Best of luck whatever you decide to do --
          >
          > Kate Murphy
          >
          Thanks, Kate (and Patricia and Fiona too),
          I think I will go with a soft lightweight cotton lining for the
          bustiers and look for some kind of cotton for the interlining also. I
          also do have my pressing ham ready to round out the front/side front
          seams of the "princess" bodice as I sew these seams together. These
          are bridesmaids bustiers and the poly lining has already been
          purchased for these and their "silver" satin skirts, but I think I'll
          use it in the skirts and line the bustiers in a soft black or dk grey
          batiste. The bride's satin gown (a Mori Lee) is lined with a poly
          taffeta and interlined with a cotton fabric that looks just like
          buckram and it has some "body," but without the stiff starchiness of
          buckram. Don't know what it is and can't locate anything like it in
          the stores, but I can locate all sorts of 100% quilting type
          cottons... in greys or black that would do, I guess. My favorite 100%
          cotton is called Kona cotton.... soft and with LOTs of body. Now, if
          I could only get those girls to get their butts over here to try on
          their "muslins" for a fitting so I can "tweek" the pattern pieces and
          start cutting out the brocades and satins!!! Weddings are always a
          BITCH to sew for.... ever the worst when it's your own daughter's!!!
          Tess
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