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Underlinings

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  • tjchatham
    I have a question about underlining for a couple of brocade bustiers. Ordinarily, I d underline using a woven medium weight iron-on interfacing on all seven of
    Message 1 of 5 , Apr 30, 2004
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      I have a question about underlining for a couple of brocade bustiers.
      Ordinarily, I'd underline using a woven medium weight iron-on
      interfacing on all seven of the pieces, but I'm hesitant to use an
      iron-on with a "raised" fabric like brocade. These bustiers are going
      to be very "fitted" and lined with a lightweight polyester lining.
      There is also boning in every one of the six seams of the "princess"
      styled bustiers that goes into the lining. They are to be worn in and
      out of doors in July heat and humidity, so I'd like to keep things as
      lightweight as possible, but give them a good "well constructed"
      look. Any suggestions for an interlining that would work well here?
      The brocade is a silver and black rayon fabric with a "raised" scroll
      pattern.
      Tess
    • Ken & Patricia
      ... I use cotton duck or heavy weight linen. I make corsets though. Patricia
      Message 2 of 5 , Apr 30, 2004
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        > -----Original Message-----
        > From: tjchatham [mailto:tjchatham@...]
        > Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 3:23 PM
        > To: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
        > Subject: [TheCostumersManifesto] Underlinings
        >
        > I have a question about underlining for a couple of brocade bustiers.
        > Ordinarily, I'd underline using a woven medium weight iron-on
        > interfacing on all seven of the pieces, but I'm hesitant to
        > use an iron-on with a "raised" fabric like brocade. These
        > bustiers are going to be very "fitted" and lined with a
        > lightweight polyester lining.
        > There is also boning in every one of the six seams of the "princess"
        > styled bustiers that goes into the lining. They are to be
        > worn in and out of doors in July heat and humidity, so I'd
        > like to keep things as lightweight as possible, but give them
        > a good "well constructed"
        > look. Any suggestions for an interlining that would work well here?
        > The brocade is a silver and black rayon fabric with a
        > "raised" scroll pattern.
        > Tess


        I use cotton duck or heavy weight linen. I make corsets though.

        Patricia
      • Fionna O'Leary
        I concur with Patricia. I use natural fibers, (ie cotton, silk or wool) whenever possible, especially around the body. I d rather have more or heavier layers
        Message 3 of 5 , May 1, 2004
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          I concur with Patricia. I use natural fibers, (ie cotton, silk or wool) whenever possible, especially around the body. I'd rather have more or heavier layers of a natural fiber that breath and wick than a thin layer of manmade that looks pretty and acts like a plastic bag in the heat and humidity.

          Fionna

          Ken & Patricia <krich2@...> wrote:
          > -----Original Message-----
          > From: tjchatham [mailto:tjchatham@...]
          > Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 3:23 PM
          > To: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
          > Subject: [TheCostumersManifesto] Underlinings
          >
          > I have a question about underlining for a couple of >brocade bustiers. Ordinarily, I'd underline using a >woven medium weight iron-on interfacing on all seven of >the pieces, but I'm hesitant to use an iron-on with a >"raised" fabric like brocade. These bustiers are going >to be very "fitted" and lined with a lightweight >polyester lining. There is also boning in every one of >the six seams of the "princess" styled bustiers that >goes into the lining. They are to be worn in and out of >doors in July heat and humidity, so I'd like to keep >things as lightweight as possible, but give them
          > a good "well constructed" look. Any suggestions for an >interlining that would work well here? The brocade is a >silver and black rayon fabric with a "raised" scroll >pattern. Tess


          I use cotton duck or heavy weight linen. I make corsets though. Patricia


          Fionna O'Leary... the Wayward Wench
          Wench #424, MCL, MI Madame, Local 57, Wenches of All Flavors
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          *I'm not Bad, I'm just drawn that way* Jessica Rabbit

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        • K Murphy
          Hi: I tend to avoid fused underlinings when at all possible, because although they stabilize your fabric, they also can cause huge problems if/when they
          Message 4 of 5 , May 1, 2004
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            Hi:

            I tend to avoid fused underlinings when at all possible, because although they stabilize your fabric, they also can cause huge problems if/when they seperate (usually from continued wear and/or cleaning/pressing).

            If this was my project, I would flatline each bodice piece with a medium weight, plain weave, 100% cotton fabric (prewashed, dryer-dried, and pressed with steam) in a similiar shade to the face fabric. I usually make the flatline stitching 1/8" inside the stitching line so that it won't show. Sometimes (depending on the face fabric) I roll the pieces of a fitted bodice over a tailors ham to "build in" the natural curve of the body and eliminate puckering on the inside of the curve.

            If you haven't already bought the poly lining, I'd switch it to a lightweight cotton or cotton/poly blend, just for comfort against the skin in July's heat!

            Best of luck whatever you decide to do --

            Kate Murphy

            tjchatham <tjchatham@...> wrote:
            I have a question about underlining for a couple of brocade bustiers.
            Ordinarily, I'd underline using a woven medium weight iron-on
            interfacing on all seven of the pieces, but I'm hesitant to use an
            iron-on with a "raised" fabric like brocade. These bustiers are going
            to be very "fitted" and lined with a lightweight polyester lining.
            There is also boning in every one of the six seams of the "princess"
            styled bustiers that goes into the lining. They are to be worn in and
            out of doors in July heat and humidity, so I'd like to keep things as
            lightweight as possible, but give them a good "well constructed"
            look. Any suggestions for an interlining that would work well here?
            The brocade is a silver and black rayon fabric with a "raised" scroll
            pattern.
            Tess


            ---------------------------------
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            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • tjchatham
            ... although they stabilize your fabric, they also can cause huge problems if/when they seperate (usually from continued wear and/or cleaning/pressing). ...
            Message 5 of 5 , May 3, 2004
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              --- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, K Murphy
              <costumerkate@y...> wrote:
              > Hi:
              >
              > I tend to avoid fused underlinings when at all possible, because
              although they stabilize your fabric, they also can cause huge
              problems if/when they seperate (usually from continued wear and/or
              cleaning/pressing).
              >
              > If this was my project, I would flatline each bodice piece with a
              medium weight, plain weave, 100% cotton fabric (prewashed, dryer-
              dried, and pressed with steam) in a similiar shade to the face
              fabric. I usually make the flatline stitching 1/8" inside the
              stitching line so that it won't show. Sometimes (depending on the
              face fabric) I roll the pieces of a fitted bodice over a tailors ham
              to "build in" the natural curve of the body and eliminate puckering
              on the inside of the curve.
              >
              > If you haven't already bought the poly lining, I'd switch it to a
              lightweight cotton or cotton/poly blend, just for comfort against the
              skin in July's heat!
              >
              > Best of luck whatever you decide to do --
              >
              > Kate Murphy
              >
              Thanks, Kate (and Patricia and Fiona too),
              I think I will go with a soft lightweight cotton lining for the
              bustiers and look for some kind of cotton for the interlining also. I
              also do have my pressing ham ready to round out the front/side front
              seams of the "princess" bodice as I sew these seams together. These
              are bridesmaids bustiers and the poly lining has already been
              purchased for these and their "silver" satin skirts, but I think I'll
              use it in the skirts and line the bustiers in a soft black or dk grey
              batiste. The bride's satin gown (a Mori Lee) is lined with a poly
              taffeta and interlined with a cotton fabric that looks just like
              buckram and it has some "body," but without the stiff starchiness of
              buckram. Don't know what it is and can't locate anything like it in
              the stores, but I can locate all sorts of 100% quilting type
              cottons... in greys or black that would do, I guess. My favorite 100%
              cotton is called Kona cotton.... soft and with LOTs of body. Now, if
              I could only get those girls to get their butts over here to try on
              their "muslins" for a fitting so I can "tweek" the pattern pieces and
              start cutting out the brocades and satins!!! Weddings are always a
              BITCH to sew for.... ever the worst when it's your own daughter's!!!
              Tess
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