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Re: [TheCostumersManifesto] Don't bother with the neck gussets?,,,

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  • Brad Gould
    Hi all, I m currently working on period garments worn by the Acadian settlers of Nova Scotia, in the 1600s-1700s. I have been making these shirts with the
    Message 1 of 3 , Apr 27, 2004
      Hi all,

      I'm currently working on period garments worn by the Acadian settlers of Nova Scotia, in the 1600s-1700s. I have been making these shirts with the neck gussets, but I hate to put the aggravating things in! Does anyone have any easy methods? I have to agree that they just don't fit as well without the gusset, I have tried.
      What I usually do is start with a small square. I stitch one side so that my seam allowance is in the gusset. Fold the square into a triange, and then topstitch the thing closed, with all the raw edges enclosed in the triangle. This is finicky and unreliable. Help!

      Joannah Hansen <Joannah@...> wrote:
      Hi, David.
      I was helping Nicola make the shirt/chemise, following the new shirt page on The Renaissance Tailor ( http://www.vertetsable.com/demo_shirt.htm ).
      It was the first time I had ever made a period shirt/chemise using an authentic pattern and I was using Nic as a guinea pig. Once she had gathered the neck into the collar, it didn't fit well, just about anywhere on the shoulders, neck, and underarms ( I didn't actually see the result, as she asked advice of another member of our group, and adjusted her chemise accordingly - now it fits better, but has no gussets at the neck).
      I think the problem stemmed from the fact that I cut a curved neckline, as illustrated on the page. When I think about the purpose of a gusset, it seems to me that they would have been used if the neck was cut just as a slit and not otherwise shaped in any way. Can you tell me (us), is that why the pattern didn't work with a curved neckline and gussets? I have been meaning to contact Tammie about this question, but this post came up before I got around to it.
      Nicola and I belong to an English Civil War re-enactment group, so we're costuming for our own interest and amusement, but our groups' aim is to be as accurate as we can, with everything to do with the period.
      Any help would be gratefully received.

      --- "David" <djuby@...> wrote:
      I know that we are all forced as professional costumers to take some
      short cuts from time to time, but regarding the neck gussets in a
      period shirt, I have to disagree. While it may be easier to ignore
      them, they are, in fact, a defining feature of the period, and always
      worth the trouble.

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