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Re: 16th Century German Garb

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  • michaela de bruce
    I can t seem to get a straight answer about the shape of the ... That s because they weren t cartridge pleated, sorry. There is a myth out there with very
    Message 1 of 6 , Aug 30, 2001
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      I can't seem to get a straight answer about the shape of the
      > skirts on the cartridge pleated dresses.

      That's because they weren't cartridge pleated, sorry. There is a myth
      out there with very strong roots, but latest theories have abandonned
      it. The pleats simply don't give you the right shape. Organ pleating
      or rolled pleating work to give that very full wide pleated look.
      I'll just dig up my email so you can see:)
      I've just realised... dope that I am, I can link you to my emails on
      the h-cost list;)
      Those are my emails on the german gowns:). you'll hopefully be able
      to read the various replies too.

      The circle skirt dresses
      > like the one you link to is a different area of Germany than the
      > pleated dresses. It seems to me it would be a plain rectangle
      > pleated to the bodice but no one seems to know for sure. I've even
      > asked on the German costuming discussion group and keep getting
      > references to the non-pleated circle skirt dresses. grrrrrrrrr.

      The dress is actually the wedding dress of Mary of Hungary, who was
      Austrian... now the whole political thing at the time means it's hard
      to really get around just what country was what;).
      However it is the only only extant dress of the time, that we know
      about, and is an invaluable resourse for seeing just what the
      construction methods were.
      Taken with the dresses in patterns of Fashion, and that Tailors hand
      book, we can see skirts were not cut in straight pieces, but cut so
      there was less fullness at the waist than the hem.
      Usually this is acheived by gores rather than a full circle.

      Believe me, the difficulty in pleating a circular skirt is more than
      made up for in the sumptuousness and luxury. Of course the difficulty
      in making it was part of what made it so fashionable...
      Lower class women wear less full skirts, but they are definatly cut
      in a circular fashion, gored etc.
      I'll also see it I can find the archives whee this has been discusses
      in recent months...
      Click next ten, not next five to see the next lot of entries, you'll
      see there are 332 emails on the subjetc, including mine;)
      Probably the specific style you are after are the dresses painted by
      Lucas Cranach, so these will probably be more spcifically useful.
      And the mary of Hungary dress discussed with its relevance to the

      Hope these help:), it's quite overwhelming I know.

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