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Re: [TheCostumersManifesto] Pattern Drafting from Historical Sources

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  • Sylvia Rognstad
    ... am well versed in it, having studied it at school and having done it now for theatres for a number of years. So I can take an image of a historical
    Message 1 of 6 , Jun 7 8:31 AM
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      >
      > How much do you know about pattern drafting? That's your first step. I
      am well versed in it, having studied it at school and having done it now
      for theatres for a number of years. So I can take an image of a
      historical garment and make my own pattern fairly easily. Of course, it
      helps to have good historical research at hand too. But I think you
      have to know a lot about patterning first.

      Sylrog
      >
      >
      > Hello,
      >
      > After tiring of the combination of not-quite-right/overly-expensive
      > historical patterns available commercially, as well as looking to add
      > some challenge to the entire design process, I am looking to embark
      > into most likely highly frustrating world of pattern
      > draft/draping. 
      >
      > This is where you come in.  I was hoping that someone in this
      > glorious resource of a newsgroup, would be able to give me a bit of a
      > push in the right direction. 
      >
      > What I am really looking to be able to eventually do is to take my
      > various historical source images and turn them into real-life, honest-
      > to-goodness costumes.  While historical accuracy of construction is
      > lovely, my main concern is that the general appearance is
      > correct.  I am, however, looking to construct costumes that would
      > be made
      > strongly enough to withstand actual wear (ex. for an entire wedding
      > reception, including dancing, etc., or walking around a city). 
      > Also, there is no specific time period that I want to limit myself to
      > right now (i.e. before I begin this adventure), though I am interested
      > in historical periods from the Mid-Middle Ages to the Mid 20th century
      > (i know, that is ridiculously broad...).  I would love, any and all
      > information that might be available.
      >
      > So, where do I start?  What books should I look at? What websites?
      > Should I be simply modifying the cheaper commercial patterns or do I
      > just wing it?  And while I am not interested in any of the pattern
      > programs out there, I do adore Adobe Photoshop and its layering
      > features...mmm...so...
      >
      > All I know is that I see a lot of muslin in my future...
      >
      > Thanks for any help!
      >
      > Michelle
      >
      > P.S.
      > I did succeed in my one attempt at making an entire costume from
      > scratch.  However, it was a gauzy drapy thing that did not require
      > too much in the way of tailoring...
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
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    • Ana's Accoutremonts
      For a book on Draping, try Fashion Draping from Fairchild Publishing. It is a very useful textbook. For tips on drafting patterns of period costumes, try
      Message 2 of 6 , Jun 8 6:36 AM
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        For a book on Draping, try Fashion Draping from Fairchild Publishing.
        It is a very useful textbook. For tips on drafting patterns of period
        costumes, try Patterns for Theatrical Costumes by Katherine Holkeboer,
        and The Evolution of Fashion 1066 to 1930, by Hill & Buchnell.

        The real trick is learning to analyze an historical design and break it
        into constituent parts: sleeves, bodice, skirts, neckline. Then,
        because my clients are usually more concerned with comfort and
        appearance than authentic construction, I find modern patterns that
        contribute the general design, and make changes as appropriate (lengthen
        hems, shorten sleeves, etc.).

        Of course the mother lode of historical construction information is in
        Janet Arnold's three books: Patterns of Fashion. But don't take even
        these as gospel truth--there are errors even in them. Use your sense
        about what a good seamstress might have done, in a time when materials
        were far dearer than labor.

        Feel free to email me about specific techniques, although I'm better at
        "faking" and "shortcutting" than authentic.

        Ana
        ana@...

        Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

        > >
        > > How much do you know about pattern drafting? That's your first step. I
        > am well versed in it, having studied it at school and having done it now
        > for theatres for a number of years. So I can take an image of a
        > historical garment and make my own pattern fairly easily. Of course, it
        > helps to have good historical research at hand too. But I think you
        > have to know a lot about patterning first.
        >
        > Sylrog
        > >
        > >
        > > Hello,
        > >
        > > After tiring of the combination of not-quite-right/overly-expensive
        > > historical patterns available commercially, as well as looking to add
        > > some challenge to the entire design process, I am looking to embark
        > > into most likely highly frustrating world of pattern
        > > draft/draping. 
        > >
        > > This is where you come in.  I was hoping that someone in this
        > > glorious resource of a newsgroup, would be able to give me a bit of a
        > > push in the right direction. 
        > >
        > > What I am really looking to be able to eventually do is to take my
        > > various historical source images and turn them into real-life, honest-
        > > to-goodness costumes.  While historical accuracy of construction is
        > > lovely, my main concern is that the general appearance is
        > > correct.  I am, however, looking to construct costumes that would
        > > be made
        > > strongly enough to withstand actual wear (ex. for an entire wedding
        > > reception, including dancing, etc., or walking around a city). 
        > > Also, there is no specific time period that I want to limit myself to
        > > right now (i.e. before I begin this adventure), though I am interested
        > > in historical periods from the Mid-Middle Ages to the Mid 20th century
        > > (i know, that is ridiculously broad...).  I would love, any and all
        > > information that might be available.
        > >
        > > So, where do I start?  What books should I look at? What websites?
        > > Should I be simply modifying the cheaper commercial patterns or do I
        > > just wing it?  And while I am not interested in any of the pattern
        > > programs out there, I do adore Adobe Photoshop and its layering
        > > features...mmm...so...
        > >
        > > All I know is that I see a lot of muslin in my future...
        > >
        > > Thanks for any help!
        > >
        > > Michelle
        > >
        > > P.S.
        > > I did succeed in my one attempt at making an entire costume from
        > > scratch.  However, it was a gauzy drapy thing that did not require
        > > too much in the way of tailoring...
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
        > >
        > >
        > > ADVERTISEMENT
        > >
        > > var lrec_target="_blank";
        > > var lrec_URL = new Array();
        > > lrec_URL[1] =
        > >
        > "http://rd.yahoo.com/M=253924.3419659.4700922.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1707300337:HM/A=1380983/R=0/id=flashurl/*http://companion.yahoo.com/config/features5";
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        > >
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        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
        > > TheCostumersManifesto-unsubscribe@egroups.com
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
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        --
        Ana Foscari
        Ana's Accoutremonts
        "We Fit EVERY Body!"
        http://www.sewfits.com
        (toll free) 1-888-SEW-FITS

        "Anger never ceases with anger,
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        Open your heart to love.
        Pray for Peace."





        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • AF Murphy
        I d recommend _The Costume Technician s Handbook_ by Elizabeth Covey and Rosemary Ingraham. It gives very good basic instructions for pattern drafting. Once
        Message 3 of 6 , Jun 8 7:11 AM
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          I'd recommend _The Costume Technician's Handbook_ by Elizabeth Covey
          and Rosemary Ingraham. It gives very good basic instructions for pattern
          drafting. Once you understand the basic concept, you can adapt it for
          most styles. Since they are writing for theatrical costumers, they take
          it for granted that you will be working with costumes from many
          different periods. You might want to try to get it from a library,
          first, as a new edition, including information about computer drafting,
          is in the works, though I have no idea when they expect it to be
          available. They also wrote _The Costume Designer's Handbook_

          If you care most about general appearance and durability, books for
          theatre costume will give you what you need. In theatre, no matter how
          we try, sometimes precise accuracy must be sacrificed for the sake of
          quick changes, the ability to read design from the back of the house,
          etc. And everything must be durable!

          You will also want to look at books such as Janet Arnold's Patterns of
          Fashions series. She gives the actual patterns for extant pieces. Now,
          you can't just copy them exactly - these were made to fit specific
          people, whose measurements we don't have - but it is a wonderful guide
          to the shape of the pieces that produced a certain effect. There are
          other similar books. (Nancy Bradfield and Nora Waugh are other authors
          to look for.)

          Draping is also wonderful, and there are some styles you can only really
          make with it. Depending on who you are sewing for, however, it has
          limitations. You must drape on either the person who will wear the
          garment, or an extremely exact dress form. If measurements or
          proportions are off, the garment will be, too. One thing to remember in
          historic clothing is that RTW is pretty much a 20th century concept, and
          it influenced our notions of fit. When most things were custom made,
          they could, and did, fit much more closely, because the design did not
          have to accommodate a wide range of body types.

          Anne

          watermac wrote:
          > Hello,
          >
          > After tiring of the combination of not-quite-right/overly-expensive
          > historical patterns available commercially, as well as looking to add
          > some challenge to the entire design process, I am looking to embark
          > into most likely highly frustrating world of pattern draft/draping.
          >
          > This is where you come in. I was hoping that someone in this
          > glorious resource of a newsgroup, would be able to give me a bit of a
          > push in the right direction.
          >
          > What I am really looking to be able to eventually do is to take my
          > various historical source images and turn them into real-life, honest-
          > to-goodness costumes. While historical accuracy of construction is
          > lovely, my main concern is that the general appearance is correct. I
          > am, however, looking to construct costumes that would be made
          > strongly enough to withstand actual wear (ex. for an entire wedding
          > reception, including dancing, etc., or walking around a city). Also,
          > there is no specific time period that I want to limit myself to right
          > now (i.e. before I begin this adventure), though I am interested in
          > historical periods from the Mid-Middle Ages to the Mid 20th century
          > (i know, that is ridiculously broad...). I would love, any and all
          > information that might be available.
          >
          > So, where do I start? What books should I look at? What websites?
          > Should I be simply modifying the cheaper commercial patterns or do I
          > just wing it? And while I am not interested in any of the pattern
          > programs out there, I do adore Adobe Photoshop and its layering
          > features...mmm...so...
          >
          > All I know is that I see a lot of muslin in my future...
          >
          > Thanks for any help!
          >
          > Michelle
          >
          > P.S.
          > I did succeed in my one attempt at making an entire costume from
          > scratch. However, it was a gauzy drapy thing that did not require
          > too much in the way of tailoring...
          >
          >
          >
        • watermac
          ... Actually, I don t really have much experience with pattern drafting (or draping), just pattern tweaking. I suppose my real question is, based on my goals,
          Message 4 of 6 , Jun 9 5:40 AM
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            > > How much do you know about pattern drafting?
            > That's your first step.

            Actually, I don't really have much experience with pattern drafting
            (or draping), just pattern tweaking. I suppose my real question is,
            based on my goals, where is a good place to start? At the moment, I
            cannot take any classes, at least until next semester (trying to
            focus on the masters degree...). In the meantime, do you have any
            suggestions of how to start teaching myself?

            Thanks

            Michelle
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