Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [TheCostumersManifesto] Pattern Drafting from Historical Sources

Expand Messages
  • Sylvia Rognstad
    ... am well versed in it, having studied it at school and having done it now for theatres for a number of years. So I can take an image of a historical
    Message 1 of 6 , Jun 7, 2003
    • 0 Attachment
      >
      > How much do you know about pattern drafting? That's your first step. I
      am well versed in it, having studied it at school and having done it now
      for theatres for a number of years. So I can take an image of a
      historical garment and make my own pattern fairly easily. Of course, it
      helps to have good historical research at hand too. But I think you
      have to know a lot about patterning first.

      Sylrog
      >
      >
      > Hello,
      >
      > After tiring of the combination of not-quite-right/overly-expensive
      > historical patterns available commercially, as well as looking to add
      > some challenge to the entire design process, I am looking to embark
      > into most likely highly frustrating world of pattern
      > draft/draping. 
      >
      > This is where you come in.  I was hoping that someone in this
      > glorious resource of a newsgroup, would be able to give me a bit of a
      > push in the right direction. 
      >
      > What I am really looking to be able to eventually do is to take my
      > various historical source images and turn them into real-life, honest-
      > to-goodness costumes.  While historical accuracy of construction is
      > lovely, my main concern is that the general appearance is
      > correct.  I am, however, looking to construct costumes that would
      > be made
      > strongly enough to withstand actual wear (ex. for an entire wedding
      > reception, including dancing, etc., or walking around a city). 
      > Also, there is no specific time period that I want to limit myself to
      > right now (i.e. before I begin this adventure), though I am interested
      > in historical periods from the Mid-Middle Ages to the Mid 20th century
      > (i know, that is ridiculously broad...).  I would love, any and all
      > information that might be available.
      >
      > So, where do I start?  What books should I look at? What websites?
      > Should I be simply modifying the cheaper commercial patterns or do I
      > just wing it?  And while I am not interested in any of the pattern
      > programs out there, I do adore Adobe Photoshop and its layering
      > features...mmm...so...
      >
      > All I know is that I see a lot of muslin in my future...
      >
      > Thanks for any help!
      >
      > Michelle
      >
      > P.S.
      > I did succeed in my one attempt at making an entire costume from
      > scratch.  However, it was a gauzy drapy thing that did not require
      > too much in the way of tailoring...
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
      >
      >
      > ADVERTISEMENT
      >
      > var lrec_target="_blank";
      > var lrec_URL = new Array();
      > lrec_URL[1] =
      > "http://rd.yahoo.com/M=253924.3419659.4700922.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1707300337:HM/A=1380983/R=0/id=flashurl/*http://companion.yahoo.com/config/features5";
      > var link="javascript:LRECopenWindow(1)";
      > var lrec_flashfile =
      > 'http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/ya/yahoo_companion/pop_lrec_comp.swf?clickTAG='+link+'';
      > var lrec_altURL =
      > "http://rd.yahoo.com/M=253924.3419659.4700922.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1707300337:HM/A=1380983/R=1/id=altimgurl/*http://companion.yahoo.com/config/features5";
      > var lrec_altimg =
      > "http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/ya/yahoo_companion/pop_lrec_back.gif";
      > var lrec_width = 300;
      > var lrec_height = 250;
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
      > TheCostumersManifesto-unsubscribe@egroups.com
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
    • Beverly Bullock
      Hi Michelle! If you re near a city or a school that has a good draping course, take that! I took draping (and pattern making) at FIT in New York, and it was a
      Message 2 of 6 , Jun 7, 2003
      • 0 Attachment
        Hi Michelle!
        If you're near a city or a school that has a good draping course, take that!
        I took draping (and pattern making) at FIT in New York, and it was a
        tremendous help to me!
        Good Luck-- Bev Bullock in NYC

        _________________________________________________________________
        STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
        http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
      • Ana's Accoutremonts
        For a book on Draping, try Fashion Draping from Fairchild Publishing. It is a very useful textbook. For tips on drafting patterns of period costumes, try
        Message 3 of 6 , Jun 8, 2003
        • 0 Attachment
          For a book on Draping, try Fashion Draping from Fairchild Publishing.
          It is a very useful textbook. For tips on drafting patterns of period
          costumes, try Patterns for Theatrical Costumes by Katherine Holkeboer,
          and The Evolution of Fashion 1066 to 1930, by Hill & Buchnell.

          The real trick is learning to analyze an historical design and break it
          into constituent parts: sleeves, bodice, skirts, neckline. Then,
          because my clients are usually more concerned with comfort and
          appearance than authentic construction, I find modern patterns that
          contribute the general design, and make changes as appropriate (lengthen
          hems, shorten sleeves, etc.).

          Of course the mother lode of historical construction information is in
          Janet Arnold's three books: Patterns of Fashion. But don't take even
          these as gospel truth--there are errors even in them. Use your sense
          about what a good seamstress might have done, in a time when materials
          were far dearer than labor.

          Feel free to email me about specific techniques, although I'm better at
          "faking" and "shortcutting" than authentic.

          Ana
          ana@...

          Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

          > >
          > > How much do you know about pattern drafting? That's your first step. I
          > am well versed in it, having studied it at school and having done it now
          > for theatres for a number of years. So I can take an image of a
          > historical garment and make my own pattern fairly easily. Of course, it
          > helps to have good historical research at hand too. But I think you
          > have to know a lot about patterning first.
          >
          > Sylrog
          > >
          > >
          > > Hello,
          > >
          > > After tiring of the combination of not-quite-right/overly-expensive
          > > historical patterns available commercially, as well as looking to add
          > > some challenge to the entire design process, I am looking to embark
          > > into most likely highly frustrating world of pattern
          > > draft/draping. 
          > >
          > > This is where you come in.  I was hoping that someone in this
          > > glorious resource of a newsgroup, would be able to give me a bit of a
          > > push in the right direction. 
          > >
          > > What I am really looking to be able to eventually do is to take my
          > > various historical source images and turn them into real-life, honest-
          > > to-goodness costumes.  While historical accuracy of construction is
          > > lovely, my main concern is that the general appearance is
          > > correct.  I am, however, looking to construct costumes that would
          > > be made
          > > strongly enough to withstand actual wear (ex. for an entire wedding
          > > reception, including dancing, etc., or walking around a city). 
          > > Also, there is no specific time period that I want to limit myself to
          > > right now (i.e. before I begin this adventure), though I am interested
          > > in historical periods from the Mid-Middle Ages to the Mid 20th century
          > > (i know, that is ridiculously broad...).  I would love, any and all
          > > information that might be available.
          > >
          > > So, where do I start?  What books should I look at? What websites?
          > > Should I be simply modifying the cheaper commercial patterns or do I
          > > just wing it?  And while I am not interested in any of the pattern
          > > programs out there, I do adore Adobe Photoshop and its layering
          > > features...mmm...so...
          > >
          > > All I know is that I see a lot of muslin in my future...
          > >
          > > Thanks for any help!
          > >
          > > Michelle
          > >
          > > P.S.
          > > I did succeed in my one attempt at making an entire costume from
          > > scratch.  However, it was a gauzy drapy thing that did not require
          > > too much in the way of tailoring...
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
          > >
          > >
          > > ADVERTISEMENT
          > >
          > > var lrec_target="_blank";
          > > var lrec_URL = new Array();
          > > lrec_URL[1] =
          > >
          > "http://rd.yahoo.com/M=253924.3419659.4700922.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1707300337:HM/A=1380983/R=0/id=flashurl/*http://companion.yahoo.com/config/features5";
          > > var link="javascript:LRECopenWindow(1)";
          > > var lrec_flashfile =
          > >
          > 'http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/ya/yahoo_companion/pop_lrec_comp.swf?clickTAG='+link+'';
          > <http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/ya/yahoo_companion/pop_lrec_comp.swf?clickTAG=%27+link+%27%27;>
          > > var lrec_altURL =
          > >
          > "http://rd.yahoo.com/M=253924.3419659.4700922.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1707300337:HM/A=1380983/R=1/id=altimgurl/*http://companion.yahoo.com/config/features5";
          > > var lrec_altimg =
          > >
          > "http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/ya/yahoo_companion/pop_lrec_back.gif";
          > > var lrec_width = 300;
          > > var lrec_height = 250;
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
          > > TheCostumersManifesto-unsubscribe@egroups.com
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
          >
          > <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=247865.3355058.4641699.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1707300337:HM/A=1482387/R=0/SIG=16nlmfdr3/*http://ads.x10.com/?bHlhaG9vaG0xLmRhd=1055062556%3eM=247865.3355058.4641699.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1707300337:HM/A=1482387/R=1=1055062556%3eM=247865.3355058.4641699.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1707300337:HM/A=1482387/R=2>
          >
          >
          >
          > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
          > TheCostumersManifesto-unsubscribe@egroups.com
          >
          >
          >
          > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
          > <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.


          --
          Ana Foscari
          Ana's Accoutremonts
          "We Fit EVERY Body!"
          http://www.sewfits.com
          (toll free) 1-888-SEW-FITS

          "Anger never ceases with anger,
          Anger is healed by love alone.
          Open your heart to love.
          Pray for Peace."





          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • AF Murphy
          I d recommend _The Costume Technician s Handbook_ by Elizabeth Covey and Rosemary Ingraham. It gives very good basic instructions for pattern drafting. Once
          Message 4 of 6 , Jun 8, 2003
          • 0 Attachment
            I'd recommend _The Costume Technician's Handbook_ by Elizabeth Covey
            and Rosemary Ingraham. It gives very good basic instructions for pattern
            drafting. Once you understand the basic concept, you can adapt it for
            most styles. Since they are writing for theatrical costumers, they take
            it for granted that you will be working with costumes from many
            different periods. You might want to try to get it from a library,
            first, as a new edition, including information about computer drafting,
            is in the works, though I have no idea when they expect it to be
            available. They also wrote _The Costume Designer's Handbook_

            If you care most about general appearance and durability, books for
            theatre costume will give you what you need. In theatre, no matter how
            we try, sometimes precise accuracy must be sacrificed for the sake of
            quick changes, the ability to read design from the back of the house,
            etc. And everything must be durable!

            You will also want to look at books such as Janet Arnold's Patterns of
            Fashions series. She gives the actual patterns for extant pieces. Now,
            you can't just copy them exactly - these were made to fit specific
            people, whose measurements we don't have - but it is a wonderful guide
            to the shape of the pieces that produced a certain effect. There are
            other similar books. (Nancy Bradfield and Nora Waugh are other authors
            to look for.)

            Draping is also wonderful, and there are some styles you can only really
            make with it. Depending on who you are sewing for, however, it has
            limitations. You must drape on either the person who will wear the
            garment, or an extremely exact dress form. If measurements or
            proportions are off, the garment will be, too. One thing to remember in
            historic clothing is that RTW is pretty much a 20th century concept, and
            it influenced our notions of fit. When most things were custom made,
            they could, and did, fit much more closely, because the design did not
            have to accommodate a wide range of body types.

            Anne

            watermac wrote:
            > Hello,
            >
            > After tiring of the combination of not-quite-right/overly-expensive
            > historical patterns available commercially, as well as looking to add
            > some challenge to the entire design process, I am looking to embark
            > into most likely highly frustrating world of pattern draft/draping.
            >
            > This is where you come in. I was hoping that someone in this
            > glorious resource of a newsgroup, would be able to give me a bit of a
            > push in the right direction.
            >
            > What I am really looking to be able to eventually do is to take my
            > various historical source images and turn them into real-life, honest-
            > to-goodness costumes. While historical accuracy of construction is
            > lovely, my main concern is that the general appearance is correct. I
            > am, however, looking to construct costumes that would be made
            > strongly enough to withstand actual wear (ex. for an entire wedding
            > reception, including dancing, etc., or walking around a city). Also,
            > there is no specific time period that I want to limit myself to right
            > now (i.e. before I begin this adventure), though I am interested in
            > historical periods from the Mid-Middle Ages to the Mid 20th century
            > (i know, that is ridiculously broad...). I would love, any and all
            > information that might be available.
            >
            > So, where do I start? What books should I look at? What websites?
            > Should I be simply modifying the cheaper commercial patterns or do I
            > just wing it? And while I am not interested in any of the pattern
            > programs out there, I do adore Adobe Photoshop and its layering
            > features...mmm...so...
            >
            > All I know is that I see a lot of muslin in my future...
            >
            > Thanks for any help!
            >
            > Michelle
            >
            > P.S.
            > I did succeed in my one attempt at making an entire costume from
            > scratch. However, it was a gauzy drapy thing that did not require
            > too much in the way of tailoring...
            >
            >
            >
          • watermac
            ... Actually, I don t really have much experience with pattern drafting (or draping), just pattern tweaking. I suppose my real question is, based on my goals,
            Message 5 of 6 , Jun 9, 2003
            • 0 Attachment
              > > How much do you know about pattern drafting?
              > That's your first step.

              Actually, I don't really have much experience with pattern drafting
              (or draping), just pattern tweaking. I suppose my real question is,
              based on my goals, where is a good place to start? At the moment, I
              cannot take any classes, at least until next semester (trying to
              focus on the masters degree...). In the meantime, do you have any
              suggestions of how to start teaching myself?

              Thanks

              Michelle
            Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.