Tailcoat tailoring issue
- Hi, there! I'm working on a coat which is an adaptation of an 1830's tailcoat (above the waist in the front and calf-length in the back).
The skirt is quite full, with gores for extra drape, and it's pulling the entire piece backwards. The fabric is medium-weight, and the lining (which I haven't put in, yet) is tissue-weight, so that's not going to affect the hang, particularly. The body, but not the skirt, is lined with heavy-weight interfacing. I'm going to be adding some rather heavy decoration to the lapels, but also to the shoulders, so I don't know, yet, if that will make a difference. There is some stiffening in the shoulders, but no shoulder pads, so maybe I should add some... The coat will be danced in, so it needs to sit properly without being constantly adjusted, which is what it currently requires.
Any suggestions on how to balance this coat?
- It could be that the grainlines of the skirt are out. If you observe an 1890's skirt pattern, the grainline are all on the straight at the front edge of each panel. this has the effect of pushing the drape of the skirt towards the back and the bustle. If you set the grainline mid-panel, the hang of the skirt is completely different.
So check your grainlines. If it is in the center of each panel, it will hang like a circular skirt, in even folds.
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