If you hate the elbow seam, there are 2 period routes that I know of.
Start with a period width - 28 inches. This puts the seam at the bicep, and that's a documented place to have a seam.
Second method - put the seam in the center, with a seam across the chest. Triangle piecing is period, especially supported when you start with a rectangle of fabric and include all the cut odd triangles as part of the garment elsewhere. So for this method, you taper the sleeves to the armpit, and add the cut off triangles to the sides of the garment. If you are using the period width of 28", that usually means you have 4 triangles about 18-20 inches long and 7 to 8 inches wide at the bottom. Even with seam allowances, that means you have fairly large gussets that can be added to accommodate your pear shaped person.
--- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, "redbrocade" <ladytangwystyl@...> wrote:
> Hi all,
> I'm trying to make SCA T-tunics that are authentic to square construction but the body I'm fitting is extremely pear shaped--super narrow shoulders & a big middle & upper arms. So the standard squared parts aren't working. If I cut the front and back to the width of the shoulders I have to inset the sleeves almost to where princess lines would be and make a really wide side panel. The person I'm fitting doesn't like the way her other tunics have a shoulder seam that is at her elbow. Does anyone know an example that would prove inset sleeves a period method? Or is there a different way to fit it? It's almost like I need to do raglan sleeves.