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Re:Sewing nylon or spandex.

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  • Marnie Bragg
    I sew lycra body suits for our dance studio, but I haven t put a zipper in one. A pattern like Kwik Sew will have all the info you need. I use regular thread
    Message 1 of 7 , Aug 15, 2009
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      I sew lycra body suits for our dance studio, but I haven't put a zipper in
      one. A pattern like Kwik Sew will have all the info you need. I use regular
      thread and serger thread. The serged seams can be three thread or four
      thread. The arm, neck and leg holes get 3/8 inch elastic. I've experimented
      with lighter elastics, but in the end regular braided (not knit) elastic
      gives the best shape and fit. I zig zag the elastic to the edge of the
      fabric, then turn over and use a double-needle seam to finish it (most
      conventional machines that will do a zig zag will accept a double needle, I
      think.).



      The trick with sewing the elastic on is to stretch the elastic to fit the
      armhole, and to never stretch the fabric (or you'll get gaping wonky
      armholes). If you the armhole or leghole comes out fitting too tight you can
      ease the fit by taking half or more of the elastic out and reapplying it
      less stretched (add a piece of elastic in to make up the difference in
      length).



      On the leg holes I stretch the elastic more in the back than in the front
      for a better fit (so it turns out more gathered in the back).

      On the armholes I put a bit more gather in the armpit than on the shoulder.



      For lighter fabrics I line the fabric. To keep everything straight I zigzag
      each lining piece to each outer-fabric piece, just catching the edge of the
      fabric with a long stitch (this will get cut off in the serger).



      Hope that helps.

      Marnie





      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Sterling
      ... Standard seem allowances. Aside from using a zig-zag or a stretch stitch I generally don t do much differently. Which is your decision. Try it on a peice
      Message 2 of 7 , Aug 15, 2009
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        --- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, "zephyrvrym" <zephyrvrym@...> wrote:
        >
        > Hi, just a little info. I want to work with elastic materials for the creation of a body suit. How do I stitch it. Can I do it on a machine or is it hands only. Do I need elastic thread or regular. Do I need to streach it out as I sew and how much do you need to hem to hold a seam. And how is a zipper attached. and where can I get nylon-hose material, is it available in bolts. well any info will help. Love Ya Later.
        >
        Standard seem allowances. Aside from using a zig-zag or a stretch stitch I generally don't do much differently. Which is your decision. Try it on a peice and make sure you like the look. Zig-zag worked great for hems, but gave my project a weird puckerd look on some of the seams. I would not stretch out as I sewed.

        As for zippers, I've made several dive skins with zipper and didn't run into any problems with that either. Just do it like any other. (pssst, Wondertape is your friend.)

        The fabric is a bit slippery so, extra pinning, wonder tape, or a walking foot might be nice. Also, they don't take an iron worth a darn. So, don't count on pressing anything.

        Sterling
        92.5% Pure
      • geneiak
        also lay fabric out flat on cutting table the night b4 you plan to cut to allow it to relax- and do NOT allow fabric to hang off table when cutting as it will
        Message 3 of 7 , Aug 23, 2009
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          also lay fabric out flat on cutting table the night b4 you plan to cut to allow it to relax-
          and do NOT allow fabric to hang off table when cutting as it will stretch and then what is cut will be smaller than you need-



          --- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, "Sterling" <dailylunatic@...> wrote:
          >
          > --- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, "zephyrvrym" <zephyrvrym@> wrote:
          > >
          > > Hi, just a little info. I want to work with elastic materials for the creation of a body suit. How do I stitch it. Can I do it on a machine or is it hands only. Do I need elastic thread or regular. Do I need to streach it out as I sew and how much do you need to hem to hold a seam. And how is a zipper attached. and where can I get nylon-hose material, is it available in bolts. well any info will help. Love Ya Later.
          > >
          > Standard seem allowances. Aside from using a zig-zag or a stretch stitch I generally don't do much differently. Which is your decision. Try it on a peice and make sure you like the look. Zig-zag worked great for hems, but gave my project a weird puckerd look on some of the seams. I would not stretch out as I sewed.
          >
          > As for zippers, I've made several dive skins with zipper and didn't run into any problems with that either. Just do it like any other. (pssst, Wondertape is your friend.)
          >
          > The fabric is a bit slippery so, extra pinning, wonder tape, or a walking foot might be nice. Also, they don't take an iron worth a darn. So, don't count on pressing anything.
          >
          > Sterling
          > 92.5% Pure
          >
        • sonia roman
          sewing stretch fabric can be tricky...if you have a zig zag..make it a very small zig zag...i have found that a serger works best, you can also sew the seam
          Message 4 of 7 , Aug 23, 2009
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            sewing stretch fabric can be tricky...if you have a zig zag..make it a very small zig zag...i have found that a serger works best, you can also sew the seam with a thin elastic, stretching (a little)as you sew....  good luck

            --- On Sun, 8/23/09, geneiak <retshopbuyer@...> wrote:


            From: geneiak <retshopbuyer@...>
            Subject: [TheCostumersManifesto] Re: Sewing nylon or spandex.
            To: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
            Date: Sunday, August 23, 2009, 2:54 PM


             



            also lay fabric out flat on cutting table the night b4 you plan to cut to allow it to relax-
            and do NOT allow fabric to hang off table when cutting as it will stretch and then what is cut will be smaller than you need-

            --- In TheCostumersManifes to@yahoogroups. com, "Sterling" <dailylunatic@ ...> wrote:
            >
            > --- In TheCostumersManifes to@yahoogroups. com, "zephyrvrym" <zephyrvrym@ > wrote:
            > >
            > > Hi, just a little info. I want to work with elastic materials for the creation of a body suit. How do I stitch it. Can I do it on a machine or is it hands only. Do I need elastic thread or regular. Do I need to streach it out as I sew and how much do you need to hem to hold a seam. And how is a zipper attached. and where can I get nylon-hose material, is it available in bolts. well any info will help. Love Ya Later.
            > >
            > Standard seem allowances. Aside from using a zig-zag or a stretch stitch I generally don't do much differently. Which is your decision. Try it on a peice and make sure you like the look. Zig-zag worked great for hems, but gave my project a weird puckerd look on some of the seams. I would not stretch out as I sewed.
            >
            > As for zippers, I've made several dive skins with zipper and didn't run into any problems with that either. Just do it like any other. (pssst, Wondertape is your friend.)
            >
            > The fabric is a bit slippery so, extra pinning, wonder tape, or a walking foot might be nice. Also, they don't take an iron worth a darn. So, don't count on pressing anything.
            >
            > Sterling
            > 92.5% Pure
            >



















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