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Re: [TheCostumersManifesto] Re: Help Please!! Foam advice......

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  • cleve hall
    Barge cement is good for microcel foams (L200) but 3M 74 (NOT 77!) is an excellent spray adhesive for soft foam. Cleve ... From: geneiak
    Message 1 of 6 , Nov 4, 2008
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      Barge cement is good for microcel foams (L200) but 3M 74 (NOT 77!) is an excellent spray adhesive for soft foam.

      Cleve

      --- On Thu, 10/23/08, geneiak <retshopbuyer@...> wrote:
      From: geneiak <retshopbuyer@...>
      Subject: [TheCostumersManifesto] Re: Help Please!! Foam advice......
      To: TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Thursday, October 23, 2008, 9:28 AM











      a contact cement like Duall 88 is usually used for putting foam

      together-



      retshopbuyer



      --- In TheCostumersManifes to@yahoogroups. com, "nelkiegrl"

      <nelkiegrl@. ..> wrote:

      >

      > So..I am working with foam,in making these 3-D type body encompassing

      > costumes. I'm thinking I will cut the foam, cover with fabric, and

      then

      > somehow put it all together..Will hand stitching hold? Or will it

      just

      > tear the foam? I have never done anything on this scale before. If

      > there is a better way, or you have any advice, I would very much

      > appreciate it. Thanks!

      >





























      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Curtis
      The best technique for joining the foam all depends on what kind of foam it is. Is it closed-cell foam (the kind of stuff often used in the low-profile
      Message 2 of 6 , Nov 8, 2008
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        The best technique for joining the foam all depends on what kind of
        foam it is. Is it closed-cell foam (the kind of stuff often used in
        the low-profile roll-out sleeping pads)? Reticulated foam (often used
        for filters, speaker covers, and puppets)? Open-cell foam (typically
        used for seat pads, etc)?

        Different foams have different properties. Some are quite resilient
        and can be stitched, others don't handle exposure very well and even
        if you glue AND stitch, will start coming apart in relatively short
        order. In general, though, you're better off gluing edges together
        with a good contact cement (some spray adhesives make remarkably good
        contact cement, others do not, you'd have to ask someone else for
        recommendations on that one). If you feel you MUST stitch for your
        own peace of mind, your best bet is to sew a wide band of material
        over the edges, so that the thread is well in from the edge (at least
        an inch). The fabric will hold the thread in place, and make it more
        difficult to rip out (it is important that the material wraps around
        the edge, so that the stitching is reinforced by it, on BOTH sides of
        the foam...otherwise, it will just start cutting into the foam,
        eventually). Then you can hand-stitch edges together through the
        fabric, which won't rip out.

        In my experience, however, when working with the more rigid foam
        varieties (closed cell or reticulated foams), a good solid bond of
        contact cement is more than sufficient, and you can butt the joints
        together so that you don't have any odd bumps from overlapping pieces.
        I try to stay away from softer foams for any sort of structural work,
        as they rip easily and many will start to break down in relatively
        short order. If the costumes are just for one or two shows, that's
        not a major concern, but if you're building them for long-term use,
        somewhere down the line someone will be cursing you for using it (our
        wardrobe crew for Peter Pan was constantly rebuilding bits and pieces
        of the crocodile costume, which was done with foam padding.)

        --- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, "nelkiegrl"
        <nelkiegrl@...> wrote:
        >
        > So..I am working with foam,in making these 3-D type body encompassing
        > costumes. I'm thinking I will cut the foam, cover with fabric, and then
        > somehow put it all together..Will hand stitching hold? Or will it just
        > tear the foam? I have never done anything on this scale before. If
        > there is a better way, or you have any advice, I would very much
        > appreciate it. Thanks!
        >
      • Kael Lampe
        ... I am a mascot costume designer and builder. If you want it to last awhile and if it s going to take any kind of abuse what-so-ever....cement, cement,
        Message 3 of 6 , Nov 9, 2008
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          --- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, "nelkiegrl"
          <nelkiegrl@...> wrote:
          >
          > So..I am working with foam,in making these 3-D type body encompassing
          > costumes. I'm thinking I will cut the foam, cover with fabric, and then
          > somehow put it all together..Will hand stitching hold? Or will it just
          > tear the foam? I have never done anything on this scale before. If
          > there is a better way, or you have any advice, I would very much
          > appreciate it. Thanks!
          >

          I am a mascot costume designer and builder. If you want it to last
          awhile and if it's going to take any kind of abuse
          what-so-ever....cement, cement, cement....no matter what type of foam
          it is. Then 'drape' your pattern draft over the finished shape (using
          muslin or true-grid). If your foam is dense (like L200 series or any
          reticulated), use the contact cement...two coats on each
          gluing/adhering surface (let first coat dry almost completely before
          applying second coat). If any soling is involved, barge cement is the
          way to go. I'm willing to wager you need contact cement.
          Hope this helps.
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