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Re: Cheap draping material & lino sewing

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  • geneiak
    that is a really good tip- retshopbuyer ... might ... of ... is ... just ... harnesses. ... its ... need ... would
    Message 1 of 7 , May 3, 2008
      that is a really good tip-

      retshopbuyer

      --- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, "Curtis" <gckidd@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > --- In TheCostumersManifesto@yahoogroups.com, "Mandy"
      > <mandythepcgirl@> wrote:
      > >
      > > I've just bought myself a coverstitch industrial machine, so I
      might
      > be able
      > > to do a top stitch to give the slits a brake point.
      >
      > When you're doing a long slit in leather (even heavy-grade harness
      > leather), it's generally advisable to punch a round hole at the end
      of
      > the slit...it's harder to start a rip from inside a circle than it
      is
      > from a single point.
      >
      > > Anyway, the problem with top stitching, is that I might end up
      just
      > doing a
      > > perforation and have the whole thing fall apart like a zipper!
      >
      > Exactly the reason why they don't stitch brake points into
      harnesses.
      > If you put a 1200 lb horse on one end and a 2000 lb wagon on the
      > other, extra perforations in the leather can seriously compromise
      its
      > durability.
      >
      > The gaffer's tape is a good idea, though it could peel off...it'd
      need
      > to be checked daily, which wouldn't be a bad idea anyway. Another
      > option, and one that can be used if you notice rips developing,
      would
      > be to take some muslin strips and glue across the ends (or over the
      > rips) with contact cement. Then use some paint to make it match,
      > colorwise. If you're patching rips in the linoleum, I'd do this on
      > both front and back...
      >
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