My friend with the lathe helped me turn a shaft with Corian. What a
difference a lathe makes! Everything is so smooth now. I'm not going to
rivet the disks, but I am going to super glue washers near the perimeter.
I'll cut the washers out of CDs. Thanks for the tips on cutting holes in
stacks of CDs. I have to cut the exhaust ports. I'm likely to try laser
cutting at a local store, in the future, when I have cash. Until then, I'll
use a CAD drawn paper template and a plate for bit control. I have many
friends who can't wait for this TT to be running. They all pretty much have
a wait and see attitude.
Eventually I'll have to calculate work in and work out (P.E. in and K.E.
out). Has anyone used an electric motor from radio control race cars as a
generator? I figure on TT - geared down - drive electric generator -
current to light bulbs in parallel. Can control load by how many light
bulbs in parallel, then find a load where the TT can maximize power output
without slowing too much.
Anyone have the formula for the amount of stored energy (P.E.) in compressed
Has anyone created a disk setup on the TT that is the generator? Tesla
invented a flat disk generator having the magnets at the edge of the disk.
I believe he had in mind useing the TT make electricity directly saving
energy on gear reductions to drive a generator. I couldn't find any reading
material on the use of his flat disk generator. He has a patent though.
From: neil mackay [mailto:wyzed@...
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 1988 1:38 AM
Subject: Re: [TeslaTurbine] Digest Number 227
The CD'S will be hard to drill accurately as the drill bit will garb
on the plastic plus also the height of the angle on the drill will greater
than the thickness of the CD. If you clamp all of them to gether real firm
[ watch out they crack] between two plates ie 2-3mm thick aluminium and
use the plates as a drill guide. Try "backing off the drill" so as to stop
Tesla mentioned that the rivets will give additional "lift " on start up
and this is my experience so far as well. They will also support the discs.
On my stack I used 3mm nylon washers fro spacers. Nylon because they are
cheap [ about $1 per 50] but also very light, metal washers would have
added more weight than the actual stack it self [ my power source is low]
If you are using compressed air for motivation, try brass or bronze bushing
drill it and ream it for accuracy, you will have to drill a small hole on
top of the bush to for oil, something light weight like sowing machine oil.
If you make the bush with a thick wall you can counter bore the oil slightly
larger to act as a reservoir.
Also consider plastic, glass fibre filled teflon would be excellent,
although I have achieved reasonable results with PVC and water as the
lubricant. It will work fine you just have to keep the water up to the
bearing to reduce any heat build up, other wise stand back , the melt down
can be spectacular but only from a distance.
PVC and brass, bronze not very expensive and very easy to work with. The
catch is they are long term ideas but they will get you up and running for a
very reasonable price.
I also found the discs are thin/flexible, then bring the air inlet closer to
90 degrees to the centre, mine is about 100 degrees at present and to seems
to work ok. My stack is made from 2mm aluminium end plates and 1mm PVC discs
with perimeter rivets. On air testing the sudden burst of air would push
the PVC all over but settled down as the TT got going, still though I needed
the rivets, very few in the centre and the majority on the perimeter.
Hope this is of some help.
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