Ditto. Thank you, vger.
At 22:44 26-09-05 -0700, Shadow of the Redwood wrote:
>I was looking forward to this response. Thank you for sharing.
>vger62003 <stevefts@...> wrote:
>--- In TeslaTurbine@yahoogroups.com, Reese <reeza@f...> wrote:
>> >I'm very curious about modifying an electrical motor that way, can
>> >you provide details and/or pictures?
>> I take it, the answer is no? You cannot (or will not) elaborate?
> Sorry I did not answer, lots of stuff taking up time, laptop
>motherboard failure, vacation, work etc...
> About the vacuum cleaner motor mod, if you have one available you
>should be able to see the brushes and the leads to the field coils.
>These motors will run on AC or DC and turn at high rpm. I have not
>destructivly tested one yet. Most of the better ones have ball
>bearings at both ends. The method of conversion is to disconnect
>the feild windings from the motor circuit leaving as much wire
>length as possible. Connect a volt meter to the brush connections
>and a low voltage power supply (5 volts will do) to one of the field
>coils and spin the motor in the normal direction of rotation with a
>small cordless drill or other means. Observe the polarity of the
>voltage at the brushes and mark the brush leads accordingly as well
>as marking the field leads with the polarity of the applied low
>voltage. Repeat the process with the low voltage applied to the
>other field coil to determine which polarity gives you the same
>output polarity at the brushes and mark that field winding as well.
>At this point you have a choice of putting the field windings in
>series or parallel. Series (negative of one field connected to the
>positive of the other) will let you use higher excitation voltage
>with less current, and parallel (negitive leads connected together
>and positive leads connected together) will let you use lower
>excitation voltage with higher current. These motors are designed to
>run on 120 V or 240 V 60 Hz. Applying DC to the feilds at those
>voltages may cause them to heat up so a little experimentation may
>be needed with a specific motor. The motor (now a generator) need
>not be turning to check for field heating. A hefty variable DC
>supply comes in handy.
> In operation, a battery of appropriate voltage is connected to the
>brushes with a power diode in series to keep the battery from
>feeding back into the generator when not charging. A voltage
>regulator circuit will be needed to supply power to the field coils
>so that the output voltage is as desired.
>Hope this helps. I did this once back in the 60's just using an old
>regulator (relay type) from a car to charge 12 V car batteries. Not
>a real high rate of charge compared to an alternator, but did the