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Re: Using Sherline CNC system to control an external relay? Open to other solutions

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  • brockgroth
    I thought I would let you know of my progress, since a lot of it stems from help from this forum. I received the electronic components I ordered and after
    Message 1 of 22 , Nov 26, 2012
    • 0 Attachment
      I thought I would let you know of my progress, since a lot of it stems from help from this forum.

      I received the electronic components I ordered and after playing with them enough to figure them out I got an external relay running. Wheeha.

      I would be interested in hearing suggestions for powering the "second side" of my optoisolated breakout board. The board came with a USB cable that was stripped on one end, so I have wired that into the input (PC) "side" of the breadboard. I am currently using a digital DC power supply (an Extech 382280) to power the output side of the breakout board, but there has to be an easier and smaller way to do this going forward.

      I could just wire the USB to both sides, using jumpers, but this obviously reduces some if not all of the advantages of having an optoisolated board.

      Would three 1.5 volt batteries wired in do what I need?

      Suggestions for powering the second side?

      Thanks again for your help.

      Brock


      --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, "brockgroth" <brockgroth@...> wrote:
      >
      > The electronic hardware is on order! Including the parallel port interface card you suggested Shannon.
      >
      > I am guessing I'll have more questions when I start playing with my new toys...perhaps about configuring the software...but I am looking forward to trying it out.
      >
      > Thanks again everyone.
      >
      > Brock
      >
      >
      >
      > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@> wrote:
      > >
      > > On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 4:22 PM, brockgroth <brockgroth@> wrote:
      > >
      > > > **
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > Wow, there is a lot of feedback here. Thanks everyone!
      > > >
      > > > Clearly I need to get some equipment and start experimenting with some of
      > > > the suggestions here.
      > > >
      > > > It seems like I would benefit greatly from having a breakout board with
      > > > LEDs on it so I can see if am actually turning on and off the things I am
      > > > trying to turn on and off. (And one with optoisolation for protection.) I
      > > > know there are lots of other options out there, but I want one particular
      > > > one that I can order. Is there a reason why this one wouldn't work for me?
      > > >
      > > > http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?cPath=33&products_id=47
      > > >
      > > That one looks fine.
      > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > Do the commands M7, M8 and M9 work on particular pins? I suppose this will
      > > > be made clear when I get my breakout board. But I'll still ask the question.
      > > >
      > > > If I seem hesitant to change certain things (software, cards inside the
      > > > computer, etc.) that is because I am building a dedicated machine, and
      > > > other than being able to turn on and off this relay what I have works for
      > > > me. This machine will be dedicated to running a particular class of parts,
      > > > and other than having to program changes to the X dimensions where the
      > > > relay turns on and off everything else will stay the same. Things that
      > > > won't help with this specific project, even if they would be good to have
      > > > in general are naturally going to be a lower priority. I know this is a
      > > > little vague, but I tried to write up something with more detail and it got
      > > > longer than I figured anyone cared to read.
      > > >
      > > > This is also why I may be "pushing back" on some things. For example, I
      > > > understood that certain pins are used for the Z axis, but since my machine
      > > > is going to be dedicated to this one class of parts and won't ever need the
      > > > Z axis, if that is the easiest way to turn on/off the relay I want to go
      > > > that way. At least for this project.
      > > >
      > > > Now, if using the Z axis will ruin my computer, I need new software, or I
      > > > have to add a card to my computer, I will do what I have to. I just wanted
      > > > you all to understand the reason I am looking for the direct path, to the
      > > > exclusion of general improvement, is I am working on this dedicated
      > > > machine. My goal is to change as little as I can of what I have and get
      > > > this relay going.
      > > >
      > > The missing piece for you, is that you have not used the EMC2 configuration
      > > software. When you do, you will see how dead simple configuring a new pin
      > > is. Re-using a pin, when the controller box has already allocated that
      > > pin, MAY work. Using a completely un-used output pin, WILL work.
      > >
      > > Let us know how it goes.
      > >
      > > >
      > > > Keep the general suggestions coming though! They are great lessons for me
      > > > to learn…whether they play a role in my current project or not, I'll use
      > > > them down the road.
      > > >
      > > > I will likely have more questions, and more specific questions, when I get
      > > > my breakout board. (Or just the next time someone posts!)
      > > >
      > > > Thanks again for all your help everyone.
      > > >
      > > > Brock
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@>
      > > > wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > Great point! The link that I provided earlier (cnc4pc.com) was for a
      > > > known
      > > > > good 'parallel port cable'. Of course there are other sources, this is
      > > > > just one that I've had success with.
      > > > >
      > > > > Shannon
      > > > >
      > > > > On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 11:41 AM, kungfumachinist <kungfumachinist@
      > > > > > wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > > **
      > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@>
      > > > > > wrote:
      > > > > > > For your purpose pins 1 - 9, 14, or 16 - 17 are suitable. I still
      > > > advise
      > > > > > > you install a second parallel card
      > > > > >
      > > > > > You may not know that there are "parallel port cables" and there are
      > > > > > "printer cables". The former includes the latter. A "printer cable"
      > > > may or
      > > > > > may not have all pins wired through.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > /Daryl
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      >
    • Andy Wander
      Yup, an Extech 382280 is sure a bit of overkill. Just wire up any old regulated 5VDC wall wart to the output side of the BOB Andy Wander _____ From:
      Message 2 of 22 , Nov 26, 2012
      • 0 Attachment
        Yup, an Extech 382280 is sure a bit of overkill.

        Just wire up any old regulated 5VDC wall wart to the output side of the BOB

        Andy Wander

        _____

        From: SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com] On
        Behalf Of brockgroth
        Sent: Monday, November 26, 2012 9:51 PM
        To: SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [SherlineCNC] Re: Using Sherline CNC system to control an external
        relay? Open to other solutions




        I thought I would let you know of my progress, since a lot of it stems from
        help from this forum.

        I received the electronic components I ordered and after playing with them
        enough to figure them out I got an external relay running. Wheeha.

        I would be interested in hearing suggestions for powering the "second side"
        of my optoisolated breakout board. The board came with a USB cable that was
        stripped on one end, so I have wired that into the input (PC) "side" of the
        breadboard. I am currently using a digital DC power supply (an Extech
        382280) to power the output side of the breakout board, but there has to be
        an easier and smaller way to do this going forward.

        I could just wire the USB to both sides, using jumpers, but this obviously
        reduces some if not all of the advantages of having an optoisolated board.

        Would three 1.5 volt batteries wired in do what I need?

        Suggestions for powering the second side?

        Thanks again for your help.

        Brock

        --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:SherlineCNC%40yahoogroups.com> ,
        "brockgroth" <brockgroth@...> wrote:
        >
        > The electronic hardware is on order! Including the parallel port interface
        card you suggested Shannon.
        >
        > I am guessing I'll have more questions when I start playing with my new
        toys...perhaps about configuring the software...but I am looking forward to
        trying it out.
        >
        > Thanks again everyone.
        >
        > Brock
        >
        >
        >
        > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:SherlineCNC%40yahoogroups.com>
        , Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@> wrote:
        > >
        > > On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 4:22 PM, brockgroth <brockgroth@> wrote:
        > >
        > > > **
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > Wow, there is a lot of feedback here. Thanks everyone!
        > > >
        > > > Clearly I need to get some equipment and start experimenting with some
        of
        > > > the suggestions here.
        > > >
        > > > It seems like I would benefit greatly from having a breakout board
        with
        > > > LEDs on it so I can see if am actually turning on and off the things I
        am
        > > > trying to turn on and off. (And one with optoisolation for
        protection.) I
        > > > know there are lots of other options out there, but I want one
        particular
        > > > one that I can order. Is there a reason why this one wouldn't work for
        me?
        > > >
        > > > http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?cPath=33
        <http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?cPath=33&products_id=47>
        &products_id=47
        > > >
        > > That one looks fine.
        > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > Do the commands M7, M8 and M9 work on particular pins? I suppose this
        will
        > > > be made clear when I get my breakout board. But I'll still ask the
        question.
        > > >
        > > > If I seem hesitant to change certain things (software, cards inside
        the
        > > > computer, etc.) that is because I am building a dedicated machine, and
        > > > other than being able to turn on and off this relay what I have works
        for
        > > > me. This machine will be dedicated to running a particular class of
        parts,
        > > > and other than having to program changes to the X dimensions where the
        > > > relay turns on and off everything else will stay the same. Things that
        > > > won't help with this specific project, even if they would be good to
        have
        > > > in general are naturally going to be a lower priority. I know this is
        a
        > > > little vague, but I tried to write up something with more detail and
        it got
        > > > longer than I figured anyone cared to read.
        > > >
        > > > This is also why I may be "pushing back" on some things. For example,
        I
        > > > understood that certain pins are used for the Z axis, but since my
        machine
        > > > is going to be dedicated to this one class of parts and won't ever
        need the
        > > > Z axis, if that is the easiest way to turn on/off the relay I want to
        go
        > > > that way. At least for this project.
        > > >
        > > > Now, if using the Z axis will ruin my computer, I need new software,
        or I
        > > > have to add a card to my computer, I will do what I have to. I just
        wanted
        > > > you all to understand the reason I am looking for the direct path, to
        the
        > > > exclusion of general improvement, is I am working on this dedicated
        > > > machine. My goal is to change as little as I can of what I have and
        get
        > > > this relay going.
        > > >
        > > The missing piece for you, is that you have not used the EMC2
        configuration
        > > software. When you do, you will see how dead simple configuring a new
        pin
        > > is. Re-using a pin, when the controller box has already allocated that
        > > pin, MAY work. Using a completely un-used output pin, WILL work.
        > >
        > > Let us know how it goes.
        > >
        > > >
        > > > Keep the general suggestions coming though! They are great lessons for
        me
        > > > to learn.whether they play a role in my current project or not, I'll
        use
        > > > them down the road.
        > > >
        > > > I will likely have more questions, and more specific questions, when I
        get
        > > > my breakout board. (Or just the next time someone posts!)
        > > >
        > > > Thanks again for all your help everyone.
        > > >
        > > > Brock
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com
        <mailto:SherlineCNC%40yahoogroups.com> , Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@>
        > > > wrote:
        > > > >
        > > > > Great point! The link that I provided earlier (cnc4pc.com) was for a
        > > > known
        > > > > good 'parallel port cable'. Of course there are other sources, this
        is
        > > > > just one that I've had success with.
        > > > >
        > > > > Shannon
        > > > >
        > > > > On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 11:41 AM, kungfumachinist <kungfumachinist@
        > > > > > wrote:
        > > > >
        > > > > > **
        > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com
        <mailto:SherlineCNC%40yahoogroups.com> , Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@>
        > > > > > wrote:
        > > > > > > For your purpose pins 1 - 9, 14, or 16 - 17 are suitable. I
        still
        > > > advise
        > > > > > > you install a second parallel card
        > > > > >
        > > > > > You may not know that there are "parallel port cables" and there
        are
        > > > > > "printer cables". The former includes the latter. A "printer
        cable"
        > > > may or
        > > > > > may not have all pins wired through.
        > > > > >
        > > > > > /Daryl
        > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > >
        > >
        > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > >
        >






        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • brockgroth
        Ha ha…I Googled wall wart and got this… https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8269 Of course! I looked at CNC4PC s power supplies hoping to find something,
        Message 3 of 22 , Nov 26, 2012
        • 0 Attachment
          Ha ha…I Googled "wall wart" and got this…

          https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8269

          Of course!

          I looked at CNC4PC's power supplies hoping to find something, but didn't find anything that looked right. Prior to your post I didn't think to search for "wall wart." Googling "power supplies" just gives too many returns to be very useful.

          If it isn't obvious, I am new to this Sherline CNC stuff. I just happened to have that Extech power supply from something else I do that I actually know a little bit about…but it let me do some testing.

          Thanks,

          Brock






          --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, "Andy Wander" <andywander@...> wrote:
          >
          > Yup, an Extech 382280 is sure a bit of overkill.
          >
          > Just wire up any old regulated 5VDC wall wart to the output side of the BOB
          >
          > Andy Wander
          >
          > _____
          >
          > From: SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com] On
          > Behalf Of brockgroth
          > Sent: Monday, November 26, 2012 9:51 PM
          > To: SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com
          > Subject: [SherlineCNC] Re: Using Sherline CNC system to control an external
          > relay? Open to other solutions
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > I thought I would let you know of my progress, since a lot of it stems from
          > help from this forum.
          >
          > I received the electronic components I ordered and after playing with them
          > enough to figure them out I got an external relay running. Wheeha.
          >
          > I would be interested in hearing suggestions for powering the "second side"
          > of my optoisolated breakout board. The board came with a USB cable that was
          > stripped on one end, so I have wired that into the input (PC) "side" of the
          > breadboard. I am currently using a digital DC power supply (an Extech
          > 382280) to power the output side of the breakout board, but there has to be
          > an easier and smaller way to do this going forward.
          >
          > I could just wire the USB to both sides, using jumpers, but this obviously
          > reduces some if not all of the advantages of having an optoisolated board.
          >
          > Would three 1.5 volt batteries wired in do what I need?
          >
          > Suggestions for powering the second side?
          >
          > Thanks again for your help.
          >
          > Brock
          >
          > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:SherlineCNC%40yahoogroups.com> ,
          > "brockgroth" <brockgroth@> wrote:
          > >
          > > The electronic hardware is on order! Including the parallel port interface
          > card you suggested Shannon.
          > >
          > > I am guessing I'll have more questions when I start playing with my new
          > toys...perhaps about configuring the software...but I am looking forward to
          > trying it out.
          > >
          > > Thanks again everyone.
          > >
          > > Brock
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com <mailto:SherlineCNC%40yahoogroups.com>
          > , Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 4:22 PM, brockgroth <brockgroth@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > > **
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > Wow, there is a lot of feedback here. Thanks everyone!
          > > > >
          > > > > Clearly I need to get some equipment and start experimenting with some
          > of
          > > > > the suggestions here.
          > > > >
          > > > > It seems like I would benefit greatly from having a breakout board
          > with
          > > > > LEDs on it so I can see if am actually turning on and off the things I
          > am
          > > > > trying to turn on and off. (And one with optoisolation for
          > protection.) I
          > > > > know there are lots of other options out there, but I want one
          > particular
          > > > > one that I can order. Is there a reason why this one wouldn't work for
          > me?
          > > > >
          > > > > http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?cPath=33
          > <http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?cPath=33&products_id=47>
          > &products_id=47
          > > > >
          > > > That one looks fine.
          > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > Do the commands M7, M8 and M9 work on particular pins? I suppose this
          > will
          > > > > be made clear when I get my breakout board. But I'll still ask the
          > question.
          > > > >
          > > > > If I seem hesitant to change certain things (software, cards inside
          > the
          > > > > computer, etc.) that is because I am building a dedicated machine, and
          > > > > other than being able to turn on and off this relay what I have works
          > for
          > > > > me. This machine will be dedicated to running a particular class of
          > parts,
          > > > > and other than having to program changes to the X dimensions where the
          > > > > relay turns on and off everything else will stay the same. Things that
          > > > > won't help with this specific project, even if they would be good to
          > have
          > > > > in general are naturally going to be a lower priority. I know this is
          > a
          > > > > little vague, but I tried to write up something with more detail and
          > it got
          > > > > longer than I figured anyone cared to read.
          > > > >
          > > > > This is also why I may be "pushing back" on some things. For example,
          > I
          > > > > understood that certain pins are used for the Z axis, but since my
          > machine
          > > > > is going to be dedicated to this one class of parts and won't ever
          > need the
          > > > > Z axis, if that is the easiest way to turn on/off the relay I want to
          > go
          > > > > that way. At least for this project.
          > > > >
          > > > > Now, if using the Z axis will ruin my computer, I need new software,
          > or I
          > > > > have to add a card to my computer, I will do what I have to. I just
          > wanted
          > > > > you all to understand the reason I am looking for the direct path, to
          > the
          > > > > exclusion of general improvement, is I am working on this dedicated
          > > > > machine. My goal is to change as little as I can of what I have and
          > get
          > > > > this relay going.
          > > > >
          > > > The missing piece for you, is that you have not used the EMC2
          > configuration
          > > > software. When you do, you will see how dead simple configuring a new
          > pin
          > > > is. Re-using a pin, when the controller box has already allocated that
          > > > pin, MAY work. Using a completely un-used output pin, WILL work.
          > > >
          > > > Let us know how it goes.
          > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > Keep the general suggestions coming though! They are great lessons for
          > me
          > > > > to learn.whether they play a role in my current project or not, I'll
          > use
          > > > > them down the road.
          > > > >
          > > > > I will likely have more questions, and more specific questions, when I
          > get
          > > > > my breakout board. (Or just the next time someone posts!)
          > > > >
          > > > > Thanks again for all your help everyone.
          > > > >
          > > > > Brock
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com
          > <mailto:SherlineCNC%40yahoogroups.com> , Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@>
          > > > > wrote:
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Great point! The link that I provided earlier (cnc4pc.com) was for a
          > > > > known
          > > > > > good 'parallel port cable'. Of course there are other sources, this
          > is
          > > > > > just one that I've had success with.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Shannon
          > > > > >
          > > > > > On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 11:41 AM, kungfumachinist <kungfumachinist@
          > > > > > > wrote:
          > > > > >
          > > > > > > **
          > > > >
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com
          > <mailto:SherlineCNC%40yahoogroups.com> , Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@>
          > > > > > > wrote:
          > > > > > > > For your purpose pins 1 - 9, 14, or 16 - 17 are suitable. I
          > still
          > > > > advise
          > > > > > > > you install a second parallel card
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > > You may not know that there are "parallel port cables" and there
          > are
          > > > > > > "printer cables". The former includes the latter. A "printer
          > cable"
          > > > > may or
          > > > > > > may not have all pins wired through.
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > > /Daryl
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > >
          > > > > >
          > > > > >
          > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > > >
          > >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
        • Shannon Haworth
          Great news!!! Do NOT use USB to power the other side of the board, you are asking for trouble. Holy carp, the Extech 382280 is a nice power supply. Send any
          Message 4 of 22 , Nov 26, 2012
          • 0 Attachment
            Great news!!!

            Do NOT use USB to power the other side of the board, you are asking for
            trouble.

            Holy carp, the Extech 382280 is a nice power supply. Send any spares my
            way :)

            Given what a monster that power supply is, it actually makes recommending a
            smaller supply more difficult. We have no idea how many amps you need
            since you could start a small combustion engine with that thing.

            What the heck are we turning on and off (send a private PM if you are wary
            of splashing the details on a public forum). We need to determine the
            voltage and amperage requirements.

            Sight unseen, I would bet a wall wart like this would work (in 5v mode):
            https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11296

            Grab the recommended connectors while you are there. If you don't want to
            risk a guess, let us know what you are turning on and off.

            Shannon

            On Mon, Nov 26, 2012 at 9:51 PM, brockgroth <brockgroth@...> wrote:

            > **
            >
            >
            > I thought I would let you know of my progress, since a lot of it stems
            > from help from this forum.
            >
            > I received the electronic components I ordered and after playing with them
            > enough to figure them out I got an external relay running. Wheeha.
            >
            > I would be interested in hearing suggestions for powering the "second
            > side" of my optoisolated breakout board. The board came with a USB cable
            > that was stripped on one end, so I have wired that into the input (PC)
            > "side" of the breadboard. I am currently using a digital DC power supply
            > (an Extech 382280) to power the output side of the breakout board, but
            > there has to be an easier and smaller way to do this going forward.
            >
            > I could just wire the USB to both sides, using jumpers, but this obviously
            > reduces some if not all of the advantages of having an optoisolated board.
            >
            > Would three 1.5 volt batteries wired in do what I need?
            >
            > Suggestions for powering the second side?
            >
            > Thanks again for your help.
            >
            > Brock
            >
            >
            > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, "brockgroth" <brockgroth@...> wrote:
            > >
            > > The electronic hardware is on order! Including the parallel port
            > interface card you suggested Shannon.
            > >
            > > I am guessing I'll have more questions when I start playing with my new
            > toys...perhaps about configuring the software...but I am looking forward to
            > trying it out.
            > >
            > > Thanks again everyone.
            > >
            > > Brock
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@>
            > wrote:
            >
            > > >
            > > > On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 4:22 PM, brockgroth <brockgroth@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > > **
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > > Wow, there is a lot of feedback here. Thanks everyone!
            > > > >
            > > > > Clearly I need to get some equipment and start experimenting with
            > some of
            > > > > the suggestions here.
            > > > >
            > > > > It seems like I would benefit greatly from having a breakout board
            > with
            > > > > LEDs on it so I can see if am actually turning on and off the things
            > I am
            > > > > trying to turn on and off. (And one with optoisolation for
            > protection.) I
            > > > > know there are lots of other options out there, but I want one
            > particular
            > > > > one that I can order. Is there a reason why this one wouldn't work
            > for me?
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?cPath=33&products_id=47
            > > > >
            > > > That one looks fine.
            > > >
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > > Do the commands M7, M8 and M9 work on particular pins? I suppose
            > this will
            > > > > be made clear when I get my breakout board. But I'll still ask the
            > question.
            > > > >
            > > > > If I seem hesitant to change certain things (software, cards inside
            > the
            > > > > computer, etc.) that is because I am building a dedicated machine,
            > and
            > > > > other than being able to turn on and off this relay what I have
            > works for
            > > > > me. This machine will be dedicated to running a particular class of
            > parts,
            > > > > and other than having to program changes to the X dimensions where
            > the
            > > > > relay turns on and off everything else will stay the same. Things
            > that
            > > > > won't help with this specific project, even if they would be good to
            > have
            > > > > in general are naturally going to be a lower priority. I know this
            > is a
            > > > > little vague, but I tried to write up something with more detail and
            > it got
            > > > > longer than I figured anyone cared to read.
            > > > >
            > > > > This is also why I may be "pushing back" on some things. For
            > example, I
            > > > > understood that certain pins are used for the Z axis, but since my
            > machine
            > > > > is going to be dedicated to this one class of parts and won't ever
            > need the
            > > > > Z axis, if that is the easiest way to turn on/off the relay I want
            > to go
            > > > > that way. At least for this project.
            > > > >
            > > > > Now, if using the Z axis will ruin my computer, I need new software,
            > or I
            > > > > have to add a card to my computer, I will do what I have to. I just
            > wanted
            > > > > you all to understand the reason I am looking for the direct path,
            > to the
            > > > > exclusion of general improvement, is I am working on this dedicated
            > > > > machine. My goal is to change as little as I can of what I have and
            > get
            > > > > this relay going.
            > > > >
            > > > The missing piece for you, is that you have not used the EMC2
            > configuration
            > > > software. When you do, you will see how dead simple configuring a new
            > pin
            > > > is. Re-using a pin, when the controller box has already allocated that
            > > > pin, MAY work. Using a completely un-used output pin, WILL work.
            > > >
            > > > Let us know how it goes.
            > > >
            > > > >
            > > > > Keep the general suggestions coming though! They are great lessons
            > for me
            > > > > to learn�whether they play a role in my current project or not, I'll
            > use
            > > > > them down the road.
            > > > >
            > > > > I will likely have more questions, and more specific questions, when
            > I get
            > > > > my breakout board. (Or just the next time someone posts!)
            > > > >
            > > > > Thanks again for all your help everyone.
            > > > >
            > > > > Brock
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Haworth
            > <shannon.haworth@>
            > > > > wrote:
            > > > > >
            > > > > > Great point! The link that I provided earlier (cnc4pc.com) was
            > for a
            > > > > known
            > > > > > good 'parallel port cable'. Of course there are other sources,
            > this is
            > > > > > just one that I've had success with.
            > > > > >
            > > > > > Shannon
            > > > > >
            > > > > > On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 11:41 AM, kungfumachinist <kungfumachinist@
            > > > > > > wrote:
            > > > > >
            > > > > > > **
            > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Haworth
            > <shannon.haworth@>
            > > > > > > wrote:
            > > > > > > > For your purpose pins 1 - 9, 14, or 16 - 17 are suitable. I
            > still
            > > > > advise
            > > > > > > > you install a second parallel card
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > You may not know that there are "parallel port cables" and there
            > are
            > > > > > > "printer cables". The former includes the latter. A "printer
            > cable"
            > > > > may or
            > > > > > > may not have all pins wired through.
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > /Daryl
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > > >
            > >
            >
            >
            >


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • brockgroth
            Ha ha, yeah, I don t need a power supply anywhere near as big as the Extech I currently have hooked up! I just had that available (to temporarily remove) from
            Message 5 of 22 , Nov 28, 2012
            • 0 Attachment
              Ha ha, yeah, I don't need a power supply anywhere near as big as the Extech I currently have hooked up! I just had that available (to temporarily remove) from another project.

              For this project, I only need enough power to throw the relay I am using to replace the standard on/off footswitch. The piece of equipment I am controlling has it's own power supply and can take it from there.

              I ordered a 5vdc "wall wart" and some barrel jacks. I figure down the line I am going to have to put the breakout board, relay, etc. into an enclosure and panel mount barrel jacks seemed as good as anything to wire through the enclosure.

              Brock


              --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@...> wrote:
              >
              > Great news!!!
              >
              > Do NOT use USB to power the other side of the board, you are asking for
              > trouble.
              >
              > Holy carp, the Extech 382280 is a nice power supply. Send any spares my
              > way :)
              >
              > Given what a monster that power supply is, it actually makes recommending a
              > smaller supply more difficult. We have no idea how many amps you need
              > since you could start a small combustion engine with that thing.
              >
              > What the heck are we turning on and off (send a private PM if you are wary
              > of splashing the details on a public forum). We need to determine the
              > voltage and amperage requirements.
              >
              > Sight unseen, I would bet a wall wart like this would work (in 5v mode):
              > https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11296
              >
              > Grab the recommended connectors while you are there. If you don't want to
              > risk a guess, let us know what you are turning on and off.
              >
              > Shannon
              >
              > On Mon, Nov 26, 2012 at 9:51 PM, brockgroth <brockgroth@...> wrote:
              >
              > > **
              > >
              > >
              > > I thought I would let you know of my progress, since a lot of it stems
              > > from help from this forum.
              > >
              > > I received the electronic components I ordered and after playing with them
              > > enough to figure them out I got an external relay running. Wheeha.
              > >
              > > I would be interested in hearing suggestions for powering the "second
              > > side" of my optoisolated breakout board. The board came with a USB cable
              > > that was stripped on one end, so I have wired that into the input (PC)
              > > "side" of the breadboard. I am currently using a digital DC power supply
              > > (an Extech 382280) to power the output side of the breakout board, but
              > > there has to be an easier and smaller way to do this going forward.
              > >
              > > I could just wire the USB to both sides, using jumpers, but this obviously
              > > reduces some if not all of the advantages of having an optoisolated board.
              > >
              > > Would three 1.5 volt batteries wired in do what I need?
              > >
              > > Suggestions for powering the second side?
              > >
              > > Thanks again for your help.
              > >
              > > Brock
              > >
              > >
              > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, "brockgroth" <brockgroth@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > The electronic hardware is on order! Including the parallel port
              > > interface card you suggested Shannon.
              > > >
              > > > I am guessing I'll have more questions when I start playing with my new
              > > toys...perhaps about configuring the software...but I am looking forward to
              > > trying it out.
              > > >
              > > > Thanks again everyone.
              > > >
              > > > Brock
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Haworth <shannon.haworth@>
              > > wrote:
              > >
              > > > >
              > > > > On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 4:22 PM, brockgroth <brockgroth@> wrote:
              > > > >
              > > > > > **
              > > > > >
              > > > > >
              > > > > > Wow, there is a lot of feedback here. Thanks everyone!
              > > > > >
              > > > > > Clearly I need to get some equipment and start experimenting with
              > > some of
              > > > > > the suggestions here.
              > > > > >
              > > > > > It seems like I would benefit greatly from having a breakout board
              > > with
              > > > > > LEDs on it so I can see if am actually turning on and off the things
              > > I am
              > > > > > trying to turn on and off. (And one with optoisolation for
              > > protection.) I
              > > > > > know there are lots of other options out there, but I want one
              > > particular
              > > > > > one that I can order. Is there a reason why this one wouldn't work
              > > for me?
              > > > > >
              > > > > >
              > > http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?cPath=33&products_id=47
              > > > > >
              > > > > That one looks fine.
              > > > >
              > > > > >
              > > > > >
              > > > > > Do the commands M7, M8 and M9 work on particular pins? I suppose
              > > this will
              > > > > > be made clear when I get my breakout board. But I'll still ask the
              > > question.
              > > > > >
              > > > > > If I seem hesitant to change certain things (software, cards inside
              > > the
              > > > > > computer, etc.) that is because I am building a dedicated machine,
              > > and
              > > > > > other than being able to turn on and off this relay what I have
              > > works for
              > > > > > me. This machine will be dedicated to running a particular class of
              > > parts,
              > > > > > and other than having to program changes to the X dimensions where
              > > the
              > > > > > relay turns on and off everything else will stay the same. Things
              > > that
              > > > > > won't help with this specific project, even if they would be good to
              > > have
              > > > > > in general are naturally going to be a lower priority. I know this
              > > is a
              > > > > > little vague, but I tried to write up something with more detail and
              > > it got
              > > > > > longer than I figured anyone cared to read.
              > > > > >
              > > > > > This is also why I may be "pushing back" on some things. For
              > > example, I
              > > > > > understood that certain pins are used for the Z axis, but since my
              > > machine
              > > > > > is going to be dedicated to this one class of parts and won't ever
              > > need the
              > > > > > Z axis, if that is the easiest way to turn on/off the relay I want
              > > to go
              > > > > > that way. At least for this project.
              > > > > >
              > > > > > Now, if using the Z axis will ruin my computer, I need new software,
              > > or I
              > > > > > have to add a card to my computer, I will do what I have to. I just
              > > wanted
              > > > > > you all to understand the reason I am looking for the direct path,
              > > to the
              > > > > > exclusion of general improvement, is I am working on this dedicated
              > > > > > machine. My goal is to change as little as I can of what I have and
              > > get
              > > > > > this relay going.
              > > > > >
              > > > > The missing piece for you, is that you have not used the EMC2
              > > configuration
              > > > > software. When you do, you will see how dead simple configuring a new
              > > pin
              > > > > is. Re-using a pin, when the controller box has already allocated that
              > > > > pin, MAY work. Using a completely un-used output pin, WILL work.
              > > > >
              > > > > Let us know how it goes.
              > > > >
              > > > > >
              > > > > > Keep the general suggestions coming though! They are great lessons
              > > for me
              > > > > > to learn…whether they play a role in my current project or not, I'll
              > > use
              > > > > > them down the road.
              > > > > >
              > > > > > I will likely have more questions, and more specific questions, when
              > > I get
              > > > > > my breakout board. (Or just the next time someone posts!)
              > > > > >
              > > > > > Thanks again for all your help everyone.
              > > > > >
              > > > > > Brock
              > > > > >
              > > > > >
              > > > > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Haworth
              > > <shannon.haworth@>
              > > > > > wrote:
              > > > > > >
              > > > > > > Great point! The link that I provided earlier (cnc4pc.com) was
              > > for a
              > > > > > known
              > > > > > > good 'parallel port cable'. Of course there are other sources,
              > > this is
              > > > > > > just one that I've had success with.
              > > > > > >
              > > > > > > Shannon
              > > > > > >
              > > > > > > On Thu, Nov 15, 2012 at 11:41 AM, kungfumachinist <kungfumachinist@
              > > > > > > > wrote:
              > > > > > >
              > > > > > > > **
              > > > > >
              > > > > > > >
              > > > > > > >
              > > > > > > >
              > > > > > > >
              > > > > > > > --- In SherlineCNC@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Haworth
              > > <shannon.haworth@>
              > > > > > > > wrote:
              > > > > > > > > For your purpose pins 1 - 9, 14, or 16 - 17 are suitable. I
              > > still
              > > > > > advise
              > > > > > > > > you install a second parallel card
              > > > > > > >
              > > > > > > > You may not know that there are "parallel port cables" and there
              > > are
              > > > > > > > "printer cables". The former includes the latter. A "printer
              > > cable"
              > > > > > may or
              > > > > > > > may not have all pins wired through.
              > > > > > > >
              > > > > > > > /Daryl
              > > > > > > >
              > > > > > > >
              > > > > > > >
              > > > > > >
              > > > > > >
              > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > > > > > >
              > > > > >
              > > > > >
              > > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > > > >
              > > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              >
              >
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
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