Re: Exterior Teak
--- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "George Williams" <wave_dancer44@...> wrote:
> Hi Guys,
> Another question for you. We have scraped off the finish on "Light
> Waves" exterior teak. I'm planning to use cetol to coat the surface.
> After scraping and then washing the surface, do I need to use one of
> those teak restorers or lighteners? So far, the teak that is exposed
> looks decent. This is my first time refinishing wood and I want to get
> it right.
> BTW, this group has saved my behind a number of times. It's a great
> place to learn about a great boat.
> Sabre 32 #85 "Light Waves"
> New Bern, NC
OK, George, I scraped all the exterior teak on our 362 a few years ago. Here's what I did:
If you scraped it well enough you should have all the discoloration off with a just a few blotches here and there where the scaper doesn't work well. With those and the remainder of the teak, you now sand the rest with 125 paper to get that nice smooth clean surface. There is no need for any post scraping/sanding chemical cleaning if you did the preceeding well. Then, just before you start your first coat, wipe down the surface with solvent (Cetol specifies it) and then tape around the handrails and any other surface where you think your varnishing skills may be wanting.
Now comes the money part. With all the backbreaking work behind you this where the screw up potential gets really high. Read and follow Cetol's direction to the letter. Most are easy to abide by, the direct sun admonition is not. I found that if you waited for overcast days the job could take forever, so I did it in direct sun early in the season (April/May in the North) under temperature conditions that ranged somewhere around 60 -75 deg. Don't do it at less than 50 deg, the stuff won't flow right before it sets if you do.
I first used the Marine Light (we wanted a Varnish-like finish). I put three coats on sanding very lightly with 200+ paper between coats. (I know they say not to do it, but I did. Don't tell them). This gave the basic UV protection you need and the base color. I then followed with two coats of Gloss. I intended another coat or two, but "plop in" time was upon us and ...you know!
The keys to the Cetol job were: do it on warm, dry days; vacuum all sand dust before each coat; use the "blue"tape to protect things; and don't rush it. One more thing, use a good, not great, varnish brush for each coat. Foam brushes are only for touch up. I probably forget a few things but you'll figure those when you do it.
Be sure to check out teak that has had the SEMCO finish applied. It really looks like a "paint job". The good news is that it is also easy to remove after you've decided you hate it!
'83 S 34 MkI
From: john kalinowski <sabre32sailor@...>
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Exterior Teak
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2007 11:58:36 -0700 (PDT)been there.It will do the job if they are really screwed up.But it is not the same as varnishing.Think real rosewood in your car versus that plastic fake stuff in Chevys.
George Williams <wave_dancer44@ yahoo.com> wrote:When "Light Waves" was at the yard (I sailed her back home yesterday
in nice winds), I spoke to a fellow who did his teak with Semco
Natural Teak Sealer. It has no gloss, but her said the prep is minimal
(wash with bleach and detergent) and application is easy(two coats, no
real waiting time). Since I am not a brightwork kinda guy, I'm
seriously considering trying this out. He says you have to do it every
year (here in NC) but what the heck, it seems easy enough. Any of you
folks tried this stuff?
(Happily sailing the Neuse on)
Light Waves, Sabre 32 #85
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