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Re: Alternator upgrade

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  • mainecruising
    Throw a remote thermometer in there and monitor the temps for a while. If it does not exceed 130-140F you should be okay. According to Rick at Balmar the epoxy
    Message 1 of 39 , Jul 28, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      Throw a remote thermometer in there and monitor the temps for a while. If it does not exceed 130-140F you should be okay. According to Rick at Balmar the epoxy does not like temps over 140F... I just try and make it a habit to mount them outside engine bays when I can...

      -RC



      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Jim Starkey <jim@...> wrote:
      >
      > RC, the current installation instructions for the Balmar MC-614 state, "While the regulator is designed to operate safely in conditions typical of a marine engine compartment, the regulator may be better protected, and easier to use and monitor if mounted outside the engine compartment."
      >
      > The failures I had were all with the earlier MC-612, which well may have been fussier about ambient temperature, I'm wondering whether relocation of my MC-614 is called for.
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > On Jul 25, 2013, at 8:30 AM, "mainecruising" <mainecruising@...> wrote:
      >
      > > That MTBF on the 612 is not my experience at all. I saw more failures of the ARS series than the 612, for what ever reason. FWIW nearly every failure of a Balmar reg I have seen has been due to heat/poor location though some just fail like anything else on boats. Even out of warranty, installed incorrectly and outside of what the instructions say Balmar usually helps out and gives a nice discount on a new reg.
      > >
      > > I have had failures of every reg on the market. Just last week it was an old "Alpha" from Cruising Equipment company before it was even Heart Interface (happened to be on a Sabre too, Kurt you out there...?).
      > >
      > > Unfortunately this reg failed in run-away mode and ruined the batteries by pushing them over 16V. I've never had a Balmar reg fail and fail in over voltage mode. I'm not saying this can't happen but Balmar regs tend to fail safely, when or if they do, meaning they just don't work. I would much rather have this than ruing the bank too.
      > >
      > > I do have many Balmar regs out there that are the first or second generation and still going... Again no company is perfect but try dealing with these issues with a company like Cruising Equipment (gone), Heart Interface (gone) or Ample (good luck)...
      > >
      > > I have even had my own share of Balmar reg failures, on my own boats, but this was early on and they were ARS regs and installed in an engine bay.
      > >
      > > An $8.00 Ford style regulator will suffice as a good "get you home" spare and any boat with any external regulator would be wise to have one aboard.
      > >
      > > I measured the regulator below at 172F installed 6" from a generator exhaust manifold with the engine bay open. I imagine it could have crept over 200F quite easily. It still lasted nearly five or six years... The owner was still pissed and continues to dis Balmar to this day despite his installer ignoring the installation instructions, which at the time this was installed were well defined in the manual.. I replaced it with another brand which lasted a year in that location (he refused to move it). He's now finally moved it and is back to a Balmar.
      > >
      > > The epoxy used in these regulators, to seal them, has a working temp range and if you exceed that you can kill the regulator. This is why Balmar suggests not installing them in an engine room. Some regulators don't have this potting and they fail due to corrosion instead. Early on the manuals did not reference "Do not install in engine room" but for at least the last 13-15 years they have...
      > >
      > > Look at the heat caused cracking of the potting epoxy!
      > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/151506000.jpg
      > >
      > > Still for performance and the ability to customize it to match your boat, belt and bank capacity nothing can touch the Balmar regs. Has the perfect external regulator been built yet... No! But Balmar is working on it, which is more than I can say for most companies.
      > >
      > > Also keep in mind that the newer Electromaax alts as well as the Balmar 6 Series alts have a built in regulator. With a double pole switch one can simply toggle between internal and external in the event of a failure.
      > >
      > > -RC
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Jim Starkey wrote:
      > > >
      > > > No disagreement, but the MTBF for the MC-612 was only about three/four years. They used to have a deep discount for failed units. Not only do they not now, but they deny they ever did.
      > > >
      > > > Maybe the MC-614 is better. I certainly hope so. But a spare replacement unit is an absolute requirement is you cruise outside of, say, cell phone reception of your boat yard.
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > On Jul 24, 2013, at 6:09 PM, "mainecruising" mainecruising@ wrote:
      > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > Balmar hands down. I stopped using Ample years ago when they stopped supporting the product except for an on-line forum with snarly, condescending answers. I also moved on when they apparently stopped developing and further improving upon the product.
      > > > >
      > > > > Balmar is in continual development and is continually improving already excellent products. They also have some of the best product support in the industry. You can always get someone on the phone and that is huge. Balmar was the first in the industry to introduce the new "hairpin wound" alts (the AT series). In short they are BEASTS. I've already installed one and they are mean and nasty for banks that need mean and nasty, and some do.
      > > > >
      > > > > As an interesting note the alternator Ample sells and raves about is made by the SAME builder who manufactures my own line of alternators. I sell the identical alternator as my "price point" product at about $100.00 to $150.00 less than Balmar or E-Maax amp for amp.. Not that it is not a good alternator, it is, but it's also a dated case and the new small frame dual internal fan alts really do cool better and fit more engines. Ample would have you believe it is the greatest product since sliced bread.
      > > > >
      > > > > The Balmar regs are fully programmable
      > > > > The Balmar regs have a de-tune mode to match your belt size
      > > > > The Balmar regs allow you to set batt temp compensation limits
      > > > > The Balmar regs allow you to set alt temp compensation limits
      > > > > The Balmar regs allow you to make a custom program
      > > > > The Balmar regs allow you to adjust when float happens
      > > > > The Balmar regs allow you to adjust how long absorption lasts
      > > > > The Balmar regs allow you to adjust all voltage parameters
      > > > > etc. etc..
      > > > >
      > > > > I use and install the Balmar MC-614 almost exclusively. I have tried many others, Ample, Electromaax, Sterling etc. etc.. but always come back to the MC-612 or the newer MC-614. The ability to program them nearly infinitely is a real gem.
      > > > >
      > > > > Balmar also makes the Xantrex regulator for Xantrex but why buy from a company with historically poor tech support vs. one with the best in the industry.
      > > > >
      > > > > I do install a lot of Electromaax too, and my own alts, but E-Maax now sells the Balmar regs too so no matter who I buy from for an alternator I still use Balmar regs. I am a dealer for E-Maax, Balmar and Sterling, and all three make regs, but I use just one....
      > > > >
      > > > > While Balmar is not perfect in every way none of these manufacturers are. The difference is that Balmar tries hard to do right by its customers and dealers. I like to be able to pick up the phone and be talking to the likes of Rick, Rich, Dale within seconds, that says a lot..
      > > > >
      > > > > -RC
      > > > >
      > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Allison Lehman allisonleh@ wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > RC do you have a preference in smart regulators between Balmar and Ample Power?
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Allison
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > > On Jul 19, 2013, at 9:56 AM, mainecruising mainecruising@ wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > > Allison,
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > It is an excellent solution and the up front cost for the bigger alt is minimal. Everything else is the same cost. The alts work less hard but can run at the reduced rate all day long and not shut down on temp limiting. A 100A alt run at wide open (when hot this will be about 80A) will go into temp limiting if run hot at 80A for long periods. A 120A alt run at 80A can do so all day long and not break a sweat. Think of it like driving your car up hill at 30 MPH in fifth gear, the engine is working really hard to do this. A larger alt working less hard is like driving up that same him in second gear....
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > -RC
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Allison Lehman wrote:
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Thanks for chiming in here RC, as usual you are the voice of reason! I was wondering if that could be a solution. Again thanks
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Allison
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > On Jul 18, 2013, at 7:36 PM, mainecruising wrote:
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > Quote: "I also installed a 100A Balmer on my 362, their largest single-belt model. It eats belts, which I replace annually, and scatters belt dust through the engine compartment."
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > Joe,
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > You simply go into the regulator and de-tune it in "belt manager" programing. You probably want level 2 or 3. You can set your alt for any size you deem and it will save your belts and your alt will run cooler and last longer.
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > I regularly install 120A+ alts on single belt engines then de-tune in the regulator. This allows the owner to upgrade to serpentine pulleys in the future and his alt is already ready for it. The alts runs cooler and lasts longer and won't eat belts. Just did a 120A 6 series on a large 6 cyl Yanmar in a Defever trawler. As of yet there is no serpentine kit available for that engine but the owner wanted to be future proof.. Engine has a 1/2" belt and I de-rated it to 78-83A.. Purrs like a kitten and stays nice and cool and can pump out that 80A all day long if need be.
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > -RC
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, mjkassoc@ wrote:
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > I also installed a 100A Balmer on my 362, their largest single-belt model. It eats belts, which I replace annually, and scatters belt dust through the engine compartment. If I had it to do over again I would go down a size. 40 minutes engine time twice a day charges batteries and Seafrost while cruising. No apparent effect on engine power while motoring.
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > Joe Kosheff
      > > > > > > > > > S362-261 Fogs End
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message-----
      > > > > > > > > > From: Neil Russell
      > > > > > > > > > To: Sabresailboat Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
      > > > > > > > > > Sent: Thu, Jul 18, 2013 9:32 pm
      > > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Alternator upgrade
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > Bottom line - if you spend lots of time off the grid on your boat, I would recommend upgrading the charging system.
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > Maybe not entirely applicable but we upgraded our 362 from the stock 50 to a 100 amp balmar plus smart charger a couple of years ago.
      > > > > > > > > > Fully agree with Jim Starkey's comments about this being the first and major step to better battery management.
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > Have not noticed any lack of engine power when motoring, but we tend to keep the engine to about 2/3 max RPM anyway which roughly
      > > > > > > > > > translates to 6 knots for our boat.
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > We find that 30 - 60 minutes of engine time every 18 - 24 hours is sufficient to keep the batteries happy while on the anchor/mooring and the electric fridge cold.
      > > > > > > > > > We also added a low end battery monitor (Xantrex, forget the model number offhand) that gives info on battery voltage and current draw,
      > > > > > > > > > and we now shut down instruments and electrical panel when w e are "resident" on board too.
      > > > > > > > > > Prior to this upgrade we needed to run the engine either several times each day or for more than two hours per day.
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > Just ordered a suite of LED bulbs from MarineBeam site, too. Can highly recommend them for customer service and a 10% "sabre list" discount.
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > neil.e.russell@
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > "Whisper"
      > > > > > > > > > S362-266
      > > > > > > > > > Salem MA
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > On Jul 18, 2013, at 3:47 PM, William Kellett wrote:
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > Have any of you S28 owners upgraded the alternator on our Westerbeke to a model that has external regulation? Ig yes what was the make and model and rated Amp output (50 A, 70 A) and what regulator was used (ie BALMAR 614 etc). If yes do you notice a significant loss of power when the voltage regulator is fully fielding the alternator. When you got done was it worth the cost insofar as shortened engine time for battery changing?
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > Thanks, Bill S28 585
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > >
      >
    • mainecruising
      Throw a remote thermometer in there and monitor the temps for a while. If it does not exceed 130-140F you should be okay. According to Rick at Balmar the epoxy
      Message 39 of 39 , Jul 28, 2013
      • 0 Attachment
        Throw a remote thermometer in there and monitor the temps for a while. If it does not exceed 130-140F you should be okay. According to Rick at Balmar the epoxy does not like temps over 140F... I just try and make it a habit to mount them outside engine bays when I can...

        -RC



        --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Jim Starkey <jim@...> wrote:
        >
        > RC, the current installation instructions for the Balmar MC-614 state, "While the regulator is designed to operate safely in conditions typical of a marine engine compartment, the regulator may be better protected, and easier to use and monitor if mounted outside the engine compartment."
        >
        > The failures I had were all with the earlier MC-612, which well may have been fussier about ambient temperature, I'm wondering whether relocation of my MC-614 is called for.
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > On Jul 25, 2013, at 8:30 AM, "mainecruising" <mainecruising@...> wrote:
        >
        > > That MTBF on the 612 is not my experience at all. I saw more failures of the ARS series than the 612, for what ever reason. FWIW nearly every failure of a Balmar reg I have seen has been due to heat/poor location though some just fail like anything else on boats. Even out of warranty, installed incorrectly and outside of what the instructions say Balmar usually helps out and gives a nice discount on a new reg.
        > >
        > > I have had failures of every reg on the market. Just last week it was an old "Alpha" from Cruising Equipment company before it was even Heart Interface (happened to be on a Sabre too, Kurt you out there...?).
        > >
        > > Unfortunately this reg failed in run-away mode and ruined the batteries by pushing them over 16V. I've never had a Balmar reg fail and fail in over voltage mode. I'm not saying this can't happen but Balmar regs tend to fail safely, when or if they do, meaning they just don't work. I would much rather have this than ruing the bank too.
        > >
        > > I do have many Balmar regs out there that are the first or second generation and still going... Again no company is perfect but try dealing with these issues with a company like Cruising Equipment (gone), Heart Interface (gone) or Ample (good luck)...
        > >
        > > I have even had my own share of Balmar reg failures, on my own boats, but this was early on and they were ARS regs and installed in an engine bay.
        > >
        > > An $8.00 Ford style regulator will suffice as a good "get you home" spare and any boat with any external regulator would be wise to have one aboard.
        > >
        > > I measured the regulator below at 172F installed 6" from a generator exhaust manifold with the engine bay open. I imagine it could have crept over 200F quite easily. It still lasted nearly five or six years... The owner was still pissed and continues to dis Balmar to this day despite his installer ignoring the installation instructions, which at the time this was installed were well defined in the manual.. I replaced it with another brand which lasted a year in that location (he refused to move it). He's now finally moved it and is back to a Balmar.
        > >
        > > The epoxy used in these regulators, to seal them, has a working temp range and if you exceed that you can kill the regulator. This is why Balmar suggests not installing them in an engine room. Some regulators don't have this potting and they fail due to corrosion instead. Early on the manuals did not reference "Do not install in engine room" but for at least the last 13-15 years they have...
        > >
        > > Look at the heat caused cracking of the potting epoxy!
        > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/151506000.jpg
        > >
        > > Still for performance and the ability to customize it to match your boat, belt and bank capacity nothing can touch the Balmar regs. Has the perfect external regulator been built yet... No! But Balmar is working on it, which is more than I can say for most companies.
        > >
        > > Also keep in mind that the newer Electromaax alts as well as the Balmar 6 Series alts have a built in regulator. With a double pole switch one can simply toggle between internal and external in the event of a failure.
        > >
        > > -RC
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Jim Starkey wrote:
        > > >
        > > > No disagreement, but the MTBF for the MC-612 was only about three/four years. They used to have a deep discount for failed units. Not only do they not now, but they deny they ever did.
        > > >
        > > > Maybe the MC-614 is better. I certainly hope so. But a spare replacement unit is an absolute requirement is you cruise outside of, say, cell phone reception of your boat yard.
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > On Jul 24, 2013, at 6:09 PM, "mainecruising" mainecruising@ wrote:
        > > >
        > > > >
        > > > > Balmar hands down. I stopped using Ample years ago when they stopped supporting the product except for an on-line forum with snarly, condescending answers. I also moved on when they apparently stopped developing and further improving upon the product.
        > > > >
        > > > > Balmar is in continual development and is continually improving already excellent products. They also have some of the best product support in the industry. You can always get someone on the phone and that is huge. Balmar was the first in the industry to introduce the new "hairpin wound" alts (the AT series). In short they are BEASTS. I've already installed one and they are mean and nasty for banks that need mean and nasty, and some do.
        > > > >
        > > > > As an interesting note the alternator Ample sells and raves about is made by the SAME builder who manufactures my own line of alternators. I sell the identical alternator as my "price point" product at about $100.00 to $150.00 less than Balmar or E-Maax amp for amp.. Not that it is not a good alternator, it is, but it's also a dated case and the new small frame dual internal fan alts really do cool better and fit more engines. Ample would have you believe it is the greatest product since sliced bread.
        > > > >
        > > > > The Balmar regs are fully programmable
        > > > > The Balmar regs have a de-tune mode to match your belt size
        > > > > The Balmar regs allow you to set batt temp compensation limits
        > > > > The Balmar regs allow you to set alt temp compensation limits
        > > > > The Balmar regs allow you to make a custom program
        > > > > The Balmar regs allow you to adjust when float happens
        > > > > The Balmar regs allow you to adjust how long absorption lasts
        > > > > The Balmar regs allow you to adjust all voltage parameters
        > > > > etc. etc..
        > > > >
        > > > > I use and install the Balmar MC-614 almost exclusively. I have tried many others, Ample, Electromaax, Sterling etc. etc.. but always come back to the MC-612 or the newer MC-614. The ability to program them nearly infinitely is a real gem.
        > > > >
        > > > > Balmar also makes the Xantrex regulator for Xantrex but why buy from a company with historically poor tech support vs. one with the best in the industry.
        > > > >
        > > > > I do install a lot of Electromaax too, and my own alts, but E-Maax now sells the Balmar regs too so no matter who I buy from for an alternator I still use Balmar regs. I am a dealer for E-Maax, Balmar and Sterling, and all three make regs, but I use just one....
        > > > >
        > > > > While Balmar is not perfect in every way none of these manufacturers are. The difference is that Balmar tries hard to do right by its customers and dealers. I like to be able to pick up the phone and be talking to the likes of Rick, Rich, Dale within seconds, that says a lot..
        > > > >
        > > > > -RC
        > > > >
        > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Allison Lehman allisonleh@ wrote:
        > > > > >
        > > > > > RC do you have a preference in smart regulators between Balmar and Ample Power?
        > > > > >
        > > > > > Allison
        > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > > > On Jul 19, 2013, at 9:56 AM, mainecruising mainecruising@ wrote:
        > > > > >
        > > > > > > Allison,
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > It is an excellent solution and the up front cost for the bigger alt is minimal. Everything else is the same cost. The alts work less hard but can run at the reduced rate all day long and not shut down on temp limiting. A 100A alt run at wide open (when hot this will be about 80A) will go into temp limiting if run hot at 80A for long periods. A 120A alt run at 80A can do so all day long and not break a sweat. Think of it like driving your car up hill at 30 MPH in fifth gear, the engine is working really hard to do this. A larger alt working less hard is like driving up that same him in second gear....
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > -RC
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Allison Lehman wrote:
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > Thanks for chiming in here RC, as usual you are the voice of reason! I was wondering if that could be a solution. Again thanks
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > Allison
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > On Jul 18, 2013, at 7:36 PM, mainecruising wrote:
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > Quote: "I also installed a 100A Balmer on my 362, their largest single-belt model. It eats belts, which I replace annually, and scatters belt dust through the engine compartment."
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > Joe,
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > You simply go into the regulator and de-tune it in "belt manager" programing. You probably want level 2 or 3. You can set your alt for any size you deem and it will save your belts and your alt will run cooler and last longer.
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > I regularly install 120A+ alts on single belt engines then de-tune in the regulator. This allows the owner to upgrade to serpentine pulleys in the future and his alt is already ready for it. The alts runs cooler and lasts longer and won't eat belts. Just did a 120A 6 series on a large 6 cyl Yanmar in a Defever trawler. As of yet there is no serpentine kit available for that engine but the owner wanted to be future proof.. Engine has a 1/2" belt and I de-rated it to 78-83A.. Purrs like a kitten and stays nice and cool and can pump out that 80A all day long if need be.
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > -RC
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, mjkassoc@ wrote:
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > I also installed a 100A Balmer on my 362, their largest single-belt model. It eats belts, which I replace annually, and scatters belt dust through the engine compartment. If I had it to do over again I would go down a size. 40 minutes engine time twice a day charges batteries and Seafrost while cruising. No apparent effect on engine power while motoring.
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > Joe Kosheff
        > > > > > > > > > S362-261 Fogs End
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message-----
        > > > > > > > > > From: Neil Russell
        > > > > > > > > > To: Sabresailboat Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
        > > > > > > > > > Sent: Thu, Jul 18, 2013 9:32 pm
        > > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Alternator upgrade
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > Bottom line - if you spend lots of time off the grid on your boat, I would recommend upgrading the charging system.
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > Maybe not entirely applicable but we upgraded our 362 from the stock 50 to a 100 amp balmar plus smart charger a couple of years ago.
        > > > > > > > > > Fully agree with Jim Starkey's comments about this being the first and major step to better battery management.
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > Have not noticed any lack of engine power when motoring, but we tend to keep the engine to about 2/3 max RPM anyway which roughly
        > > > > > > > > > translates to 6 knots for our boat.
        > > > > > > > > >
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        > > > > > > > > > We find that 30 - 60 minutes of engine time every 18 - 24 hours is sufficient to keep the batteries happy while on the anchor/mooring and the electric fridge cold.
        > > > > > > > > > We also added a low end battery monitor (Xantrex, forget the model number offhand) that gives info on battery voltage and current draw,
        > > > > > > > > > and we now shut down instruments and electrical panel when w e are "resident" on board too.
        > > > > > > > > > Prior to this upgrade we needed to run the engine either several times each day or for more than two hours per day.
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > Just ordered a suite of LED bulbs from MarineBeam site, too. Can highly recommend them for customer service and a 10% "sabre list" discount.
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > neil.e.russell@
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > "Whisper"
        > > > > > > > > > S362-266
        > > > > > > > > > Salem MA
        > > > > > > > > >
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        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > On Jul 18, 2013, at 3:47 PM, William Kellett wrote:
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        > > > > > > > > > Have any of you S28 owners upgraded the alternator on our Westerbeke to a model that has external regulation? Ig yes what was the make and model and rated Amp output (50 A, 70 A) and what regulator was used (ie BALMAR 614 etc). If yes do you notice a significant loss of power when the voltage regulator is fully fielding the alternator. When you got done was it worth the cost insofar as shortened engine time for battery changing?
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > Thanks, Bill S28 585
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