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Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Sabre 28 Mk-1 Portlight Replacement

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  • Yuriy Matsegora
    This is the glazing I used with 3/16 glass and it fit snug in the frame. I didn t cut external flange as it sealed the edge well.
    Message 1 of 25 , Jul 4, 2013
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      This is the glazing I used with 3/16 glass and it fit snug in the frame. I didn't cut external flange as it sealed the edge well.
       
      On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 12:54 PM, mattcragon <mattcragon@...> wrote:
       



      Thanks, Dave,

      Good info. I am sure this will fit the glass much better, but now I am wondering about the metal opening.

      From CR Laurence specs: "it requires a metal opening of 9/32" (7.1 mm)".

      I am measuring 8.5 mm for my opening. Perhaps there is enough accommodation with the ribs and the silicon to make up that difference. My boat is a Sabre 34 and it might have a bit different frame.

      Great info on Sabre's technique. I will replicate it when I do my windows.

      Thanks again,

      Matt

      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Dave Lochner <davelochner@...> wrote:
      >
      > Matt,
      >
      > CR Laurence sells the glazing. The Model number is D753C and it is available available on Amazon.
      >
      > After the glass is in and the frame assembled, Sabre trimmed the external flange from the glazing and used a silicone caulk to seal the opening.
      >
      >
      > Dave
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > On Jul 4, 2013, at 11:04 AM, mattcragon wrote:
      >
      > >
      > >
      > > Thanks for replying so quickly, Yuriy,
      > >
      > > The old glass was 1/8 inch, so that is what I asked the glass shop to make. It does seem when doing a dry fit, with the old glass, there is way more slop than is needed. I didn't think I could get away without the silicone, looking at it. So to your point I probably have the wrong glazing for the glass I ordered.
      > >
      > > This could have been pretty bad. I have relied on the Catalina kit to obtain the glazing. Do know where I could get the proper glazing for the job with 1/8th inch windows? Conversely I could bite the bullet and have the glass shop make me 3/16 glass. $200 down the toilet and more lost time with the change in the glass, but it might be beefier, and that would be better.
      > >
      > > Thanks again,
      > >
      > > Matt
      > >
      > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Hi Matt,
      > > > I didn't use any sealant on the gray glazing. 3/16" glass lens I installed
      > > > are fit tight in the channel with the glazing. Yes, I used butyl tape to
      > > > seal the port to the frame opening.
      > > > My problem with the ports was that the PO had some one to replace the
      > > > lenses and he installed 1/8" glass with 3/16" glazing (I guess the one was
      > > > there before) and sealed the gap with silicone. It was leaking between lens
      > > > and the glazing.
      > > >
      > > > I have not finished all the ports yet, but the ones I did do not leak so
      > > > far.
      > > > On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 8:28 PM, mattcragon <mattcragon@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > > **
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > I currently have all of my portholes out. The glass shop is making new
      > > > > tempered glass as I write this.
      > > > >
      > > > > Just wondering about your bedding process. Did you use silicon both inside
      > > > > and outside of the grey chanel glazing that goes around the window, like
      > > > > the Catalina instructions indicate?
      > > > >
      > > > > I am guessing you used butyl tape for the frame to gelcoat junction.
      > > > >
      > > > > I see you went with polishing the frames. I think mine are too pitted for
      > > > > that, so I am priming and painting them on the visible surfaces.
      > > > >
      > > > > Lastly were you successful in stopping the leaks?
      > > > >
      > > > > Matt
      > > > >
      > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@>
      > > > > wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > I'm going through rebedding portlights on my S30 and I have used Harry's
      > > > > > advice and used butil tape. You just buld up the thikness you need with
      > > > > > layers of tape. Last weekend I have re-bedded the first portlight. I
      > > > > don't
      > > > > > have detailed pictires except the ones below.
      > > > > > I have also sealed balsa core with west system while I was at it.
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > > On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > > **
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > Harry,
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand"
      > > > > how
      > > > > > > that port is supposed to work...
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so
      > > > > what I
      > > > > > > am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
      > > > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
      > > > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required
      > > > > > > equipment for plastic work.
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and
      > > > > > > thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@>
      > > > > > > wrote:
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones,
      > > > > > > including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be
      > > > > > > very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as
      > > > > it
      > > > > > > bends easily.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts,
      > > > > just a
      > > > > > > remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for
      > > > > > > bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is
      > > > > here
      > > > > > > on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from
      > > > > him
      > > > > > > here:
      > > > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
      > > > > > > > at this link:
      > > > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
      > > > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I
      > > > > ever
      > > > > > > get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with
      > > > > > > "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even
      > > > > > > make them tinted.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96
      > > > > > > \7&ParentCat=380
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > <
      > > > > > >
      > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9
      > > > > > > \67&ParentCat=380>
      > > > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat
      > > > > > > best.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Good luck!
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Harry
      > > > > > > > Analysis
      > > > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
      > > > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull
      > > > > > > #116.
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main
      > > > > > > cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for
      > > > > > > example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the
      > > > > outer
      > > > > > > frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws
      > > > > from
      > > > > > > the inner frame?
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as
      > > > > far
      > > > > > > as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water
      > > > > gets in.
      > > > > > > PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of
      > > > > that
      > > > > > > will be fun.
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the
      > > > > > > Mk-1?
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > Thanks.
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      >


    • mattcragon
      Thanks, Yuriy, The glass I ordered is 1/8, so a bit thinner. What you have here is currently what I have from the Catalina kit. It is unfortunately not a
      Message 2 of 25 , Jul 4, 2013
      • 0 Attachment
        Thanks, Yuriy,

        The glass I ordered is 1/8, so a bit thinner. What you have here is currently what I have from the Catalina kit. It is unfortunately not a good fit. What Dave suggests is glazing made for 1/8, but which has the same gap span of 9/32.

        I went ahead and ordered what Dave suggested. I will let you know how that works out, but I am hopeful because yours was snug at 9/32. So unless my frame is completely different, which I don't think is, I should be good.

        Thanks again for everyone's help. You guys are great!

        Matt




        --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@...> wrote:
        >
        > This is the glazing I used with 3/16 glass and it fit snug in the frame. I
        > didn't cut external flange as it sealed the edge well.
        >
        > http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JFMWZQ
        >
        > On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 12:54 PM, mattcragon <mattcragon@...> wrote:
        >
        > > **
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Thanks, Dave,
        > >
        > > Good info. I am sure this will fit the glass much better, but now I am
        > > wondering about the metal opening.
        > >
        > > From CR Laurence specs: "it requires a metal opening of 9/32" (7.1 mm)".
        > >
        > > I am measuring 8.5 mm for my opening. Perhaps there is enough
        > > accommodation with the ribs and the silicon to make up that difference. My
        > > boat is a Sabre 34 and it might have a bit different frame.
        > >
        > > Great info on Sabre's technique. I will replicate it when I do my windows.
        > >
        > > Thanks again,
        > >
        > > Matt
        > >
        > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Dave Lochner <davelochner@>
        > > wrote:
        > > >
        > > > Matt,
        > > >
        > > > CR Laurence sells the glazing. The Model number is D753C and it is
        > > available available on Amazon.
        > > >
        > > > After the glass is in and the frame assembled, Sabre trimmed the
        > > external flange from the glazing and used a silicone caulk to seal the
        > > opening.
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > Dave
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > On Jul 4, 2013, at 11:04 AM, mattcragon wrote:
        > > >
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > > Thanks for replying so quickly, Yuriy,
        > > > >
        > > > > The old glass was 1/8 inch, so that is what I asked the glass shop to
        > > make. It does seem when doing a dry fit, with the old glass, there is way
        > > more slop than is needed. I didn't think I could get away without the
        > > silicone, looking at it. So to your point I probably have the wrong glazing
        > > for the glass I ordered.
        > > > >
        > > > > This could have been pretty bad. I have relied on the Catalina kit to
        > > obtain the glazing. Do know where I could get the proper glazing for the
        > > job with 1/8th inch windows? Conversely I could bite the bullet and have
        > > the glass shop make me 3/16 glass. $200 down the toilet and more lost time
        > > with the change in the glass, but it might be beefier, and that would be
        > > better.
        > > > >
        > > > > Thanks again,
        > > > >
        > > > > Matt
        > > > >
        > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@>
        > > wrote:
        > > > > >
        > > > > > Hi Matt,
        > > > > > I didn't use any sealant on the gray glazing. 3/16" glass lens I
        > > installed
        > > > > > are fit tight in the channel with the glazing. Yes, I used butyl
        > > tape to
        > > > > > seal the port to the frame opening.
        > > > > > My problem with the ports was that the PO had some one to replace the
        > > > > > lenses and he installed 1/8" glass with 3/16" glazing (I guess the
        > > one was
        > > > > > there before) and sealed the gap with silicone. It was leaking
        > > between lens
        > > > > > and the glazing.
        > > > > >
        > > > > > I have not finished all the ports yet, but the ones I did do not
        > > leak so
        > > > > > far.
        > > > > > On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 8:28 PM, mattcragon <mattcragon@> wrote:
        > > > > >
        > > > > > > **
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > I currently have all of my portholes out. The glass shop is making
        > > new
        > > > > > > tempered glass as I write this.
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > Just wondering about your bedding process. Did you use silicon
        > > both inside
        > > > > > > and outside of the grey chanel glazing that goes around the
        > > window, like
        > > > > > > the Catalina instructions indicate?
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > I am guessing you used butyl tape for the frame to gelcoat
        > > junction.
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > I see you went with polishing the frames. I think mine are too
        > > pitted for
        > > > > > > that, so I am priming and painting them on the visible surfaces.
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > Lastly were you successful in stopping the leaks?
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > Matt
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@
        > > >
        > > > > > > wrote:
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > I'm going through rebedding portlights on my S30 and I have used
        > > Harry's
        > > > > > > > advice and used butil tape. You just buld up the thikness you
        > > need with
        > > > > > > > layers of tape. Last weekend I have re-bedded the first
        > > portlight. I
        > > > > > > don't
        > > > > > > > have detailed pictires except the ones below.
        > > > > > > > I have also sealed balsa core with west system while I was at it.
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > **
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > Harry,
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now
        > > "understand"
        > > > > > > how
        > > > > > > > > that port is supposed to work...
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of
        > > silicone, so
        > > > > > > what I
        > > > > > > > > am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top
        > > reinstall.
        > > > > > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/-
        > > $200.
        > > > > > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the
        > > required
        > > > > > > > > equipment for plastic work.
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different
        > > widths and
        > > > > > > > > thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767"
        > > <sailor11767@>
        > > > > > > > > wrote:
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the
        > > same ones,
        > > > > > > > > including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some
        > > tips. Be
        > > > > > > > > very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim
        > > ring, as
        > > > > > > it
        > > > > > > > > bends easily.
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new
        > > parts,
        > > > > > > just a
        > > > > > > > > remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used
        > > butyl for
        > > > > > > > > bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail
        > > (he is
        > > > > > > here
        > > > > > > > > on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order
        > > it from
        > > > > > > him
        > > > > > > > > here:
        > > > > > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a
        > > while back
        > > > > > > > > > at this link:
        > > > > > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
        > > > > > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150
        > > delivered. If I
        > > > > > > ever
        > > > > > > > > get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go
        > > back with
        > > > > > > > > "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They
        > > can even
        > > > > > > > > make them tinted.
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96
        > > > > > > > > \7&ParentCat=380
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > <
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9
        > > > > > > > > \67&ParentCat=380>
        > > > > > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits
        > > your boat
        > > > > > > > > best.
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > Good luck!
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > Harry
        > > > > > > > > > Analysis
        > > > > > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
        > > > > > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@>
        > > wrote:
        > > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28
        > > Mk-1, Hull
        > > > > > > > > #116.
        > > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the
        > > leaking main
        > > > > > > > > cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames
        > > like for
        > > > > > > > > example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand
        > > how the
        > > > > > > outer
        > > > > > > > > frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little
        > > screws
        > > > > > > from
        > > > > > > > > the inner frame?
        > > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle
        > > but is as
        > > > > > > far
        > > > > > > > > as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the
        > > water
        > > > > > > gets in.
        > > > > > > > > PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames
        > > from all of
        > > > > > > that
        > > > > > > > > will be fun.
        > > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available
        > > for the
        > > > > > > > > Mk-1?
        > > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
        > > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > > > Thanks.
        > > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > > >
        > > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > > > > >
        > > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >
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