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Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement

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  • genkinyc
    Hi Barend, Thanks for the help, that s a great idea to use a basketball. I will try it. The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch. I looked up the
    Message 1 of 18 , May 2, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      Hi Barend,

      Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will try it.

      The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.

      I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.

      Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in match?

      Thanks again


      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@...> wrote:

      > Hi,
      >
      > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos attached. Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked great:
      > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4 bolts h olding a plate to the gearbox)
      > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking them off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the alignment)
      > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down. (I had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
      > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back and forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine mounts back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need and don't drop the engine off the bed.
      > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do it yourself, or let the yard do it.
      >
      > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or use Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a Westerbeke mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm that the specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
      > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it seems. Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
      >
      > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
      > From: dtushingham@...
      > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
      > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
      >
      >
      >
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      >
      > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look original to the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when motoring.
      >
      >
      >
      > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
      >
      >
      >
      > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's the best way to raise the engine.
      >
      >
      >
      > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees, there's a spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's a new shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
      >
      >
      >
      > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put the new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
      >
    • john kalinowski
      Suggest you look at PYI s mounts.   1. they make several models based on weight. 2. they have s/s studs so they take abuse really well. 3 they are cheaper,
      Message 2 of 18 , May 2, 2013
      • 0 Attachment
        Suggest you look at PYI's mounts.
         
        1. they make several models based on weight.
        2. they have s/s studs so they take abuse really well.
        3 they are cheaper, yet are much better quality. They make the Westerbeke units looks like garbage.
        4. many of the units have sheildes to protect the rubbe from stray oil getting on them. This keeps them for rotting out from oil.
         
         
        Have used a set on a w21a for 10 years and they are like new.  No rust on the threads etc.
        john
         
         
        Regards
         
        john

        --- On Thu, 5/2/13, genkinyc <dtushingham@...> wrote:

        From: genkinyc <dtushingham@...>
        Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
        To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Thursday, May 2, 2013, 1:42 PM

         
        Hi Barend,

        Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will try it.

        The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.

        I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.

        Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in match?

        Thanks again

        --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@...> wrote:

        > Hi,
        >
        > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos attached. Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked great:
        > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4 bolts h olding a plate to the gearbox)
        > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking them off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the alignment)
        > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down. (I had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
        > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back and forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine mounts back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need and don't drop the engine off the bed.
        > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do it yourself, or let the yard do it.
        >
        > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or use Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a Westerbeke mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm that the specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
        > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it seems. Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
        >
        > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
        > From: dtushingham@...
        > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
        > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
        >
        >
        >
        >
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        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look original to the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when motoring.
        >
        >
        >
        > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
        >
        >
        >
        > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's the best way to raise the engine.
        >
        >
        >
        > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees, there's a spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's a new shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
        >
        >
        >
        > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put the new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
        >

      • mhrutstein
        Remember, the doubled nuts go underneath the engine mount flange, not on top.
        Message 3 of 18 , May 3, 2013
        • 0 Attachment
          Remember, the doubled nuts go underneath the engine mount flange, not on top.
        • genkinyc
          Thanks I took a look at PYI - their mount selection tool suggests different front and back. Going to give them a call. Looks like this one would do it,
          Message 4 of 18 , May 3, 2013
          • 0 Attachment
            Thanks I took a look at PYI - their mount selection tool suggests different front and back. Going to give them a call.

            Looks like this one would do it,
            http://www.pyiinc.com/?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=800040&sn=1

            Spoke with a guy from go2marine yesterday who said he has a hard time recommending anyone spent the $167 on Westy mounts and sells considerably more Bushing Inc mounts without complaints.


            --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, john kalinowski <sabre32sailor@...> wrote:
            >
            > Suggest you look at PYI's mounts.
            >  
            > 1. they make several models based on weight.
            > 2. they have s/s studs so they take abuse really well.
            > 3 they are cheaper, yet are much better quality. They make the Westerbeke units looks like garbage.
            > 4. many of the units have sheildes to protect the rubbe from stray oil getting on them. This keeps them for rotting out from oil.
            >  
            > http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&action=engine-mounts&sn=1
            >  
            > Have used a set on a w21a for 10 years and they are like new.  No rust on the threads etc.
            > john
            >  
            >  
            > Regards
            >  
            > john
            >
            > --- On Thu, 5/2/13, genkinyc <dtushingham@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > From: genkinyc <dtushingham@...>
            > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
            > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
            > Date: Thursday, May 2, 2013, 1:42 PM
            >
            >
            >
            >  
            >
            >
            >
            > Hi Barend,
            >
            > Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will try it.
            >
            > The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.
            >
            > I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.
            >
            > Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in match?
            >
            > Thanks again
            >
            > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
            >
            > > Hi,
            > >
            > > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos attached. Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked great:
            > > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4 bolts h olding a plate to the gearbox)
            > > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking them off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the alignment)
            > > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down. (I had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
            > > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back and forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine mounts back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need and don't drop the engine off the bed.
            > > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do it yourself, or let the yard do it.
            > >
            > > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or use Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a Westerbeke mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm that the specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
            > > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it seems. Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
            > >
            > > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
            > > From: dtushingham@
            > > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
            > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
            > >
            > >
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            > >
            > > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look original to the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when motoring.
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's the best way to raise the engine.
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees, there's a spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's a new shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put the new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
            > >
            >
          • Barend Brink
            Yes, the Bushings were an exact match. The only close match was the height. The lowest setting on the front (or back, can t remember) were almost too high.
            Message 5 of 18 , May 3, 2013
            • 0 Attachment
              Yes, the Bushings were an exact match.  The only close match was the height.  The lowest setting on the front (or back, can't remember) were almost too high.

              If you want to spend the extra money, PYI makes great products.

              Sent from my Windows Phone

              From: genkinyc
              Sent: ‎5/‎2/‎2013 10:42 AM
              To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement

               

              Hi Barend,

              Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will try it.

              The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.

              I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.

              Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in match?

              Thanks again

              --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@...> wrote:

              > Hi,
              >
              > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos attached. Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked great:
              > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4 bolts h olding a plate to the gearbox)
              > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking them off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the alignment)
              > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down. (I had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
              > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back and forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine mounts back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need and don't drop the engine off the bed.
              > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do it yourself, or let the yard do it.
              >
              > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or use Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a Westerbeke mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm that the specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
              > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it seems. Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
              >
              > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
              > From: dtushingham@...
              > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
              > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
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              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look original to the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when motoring.
              >
              >
              >
              > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
              >
              >
              >
              > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's the best way to raise the engine.
              >
              >
              >
              > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees, there's a spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's a new shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
              >
              >
              >
              > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put the new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
              >

            • Peter Tollini
              I m looking at doing the same project. The mounts are Bushings - $45, PYI - $80, and W - $135. The $140 difference between the bushings and the PYI isn t
              Message 6 of 18 , May 3, 2013
              • 0 Attachment
                I'm looking at doing the same project. The mounts are Bushings - $45, PYI - $80, and W - $135.   The $140 difference between the bushings and the PYI isn't really significant, given the labor and it's a one-time purchase, if there is a clear difference in quality.  The Bushings Inc. mounts have always been considered a better choice than the OEMs, but the PYI throws a new wrinkle in.
                Any thoughts?
                Pete


                On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Barend Brink <barendb@...> wrote:
                 

                Yes, the Bushings were an exact match.  The only close match was the height.  The lowest setting on the front (or back, can't remember) were almost too high.

                If you want to spend the extra money, PYI makes great products.

                Sent from my Windows Phone

                From: genkinyc
                Sent: 5/2/2013 10:42 AM
                To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com

                Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement

                 

                Hi Barend,


                Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will try it.

                The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.

                I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.

                Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in match?

                Thanks again

                --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@...> wrote:

                > Hi,
                >
                > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos attached. Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked great:
                > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4 bolts h olding a plate to the gearbox)
                > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking them off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the alignment)
                > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down. (I had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
                > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back and forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine mounts back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need and don't drop the engine off the bed.
                > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do it yourself, or let the yard do it.
                >
                > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or use Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a Westerbeke mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm that the specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
                > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it seems. Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
                >
                > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                > From: dtushingham@...

                > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
                > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look original to the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when motoring.
                >
                >
                >
                > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
                >
                >
                >
                > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's the best way to raise the engine.
                >
                >
                >
                > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees, there's a spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's a new shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
                >
                >
                >
                > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put the new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
                >


              • genkinyc
                Talked with PYI this morning and they are recommending the following mounts all around for the W18. I m probably going to go with them.
                Message 7 of 18 , May 3, 2013
                • 0 Attachment
                  Talked with PYI this morning and they are recommending the following mounts all around for the W18. I'm probably going to go with them.

                  http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=800041&options=&sn=10

                  Just took a look at the rear mounts on my boat, god only knows how I'm going to get those off, some PB Blaster went on and we will see this weekend.



                  --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > I'm looking at doing the same project. The mounts are Bushings - $45, PYI -
                  > $80, and W - $135. The $140 difference between the bushings and the PYI
                  > isn't really significant, given the labor and it's a one-time purchase, if
                  > there is a clear difference in quality. The Bushings Inc. mounts have
                  > always been considered a better choice than the OEMs, but the PYI throws a
                  > new wrinkle in.
                  > Any thoughts?
                  > Pete
                  >
                  >
                  > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Barend Brink <barendb@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > > **
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > Yes, the Bushings were an exact match. The only close match was the
                  > > height. The lowest setting on the front (or back, can't remember) were
                  > > almost too high.
                  > >
                  > > If you want to spend the extra money, PYI makes great products.
                  > >
                  > > Sent from my Windows Phone
                  > > ------------------------------
                  > > From: genkinyc <dtushingham@...>
                  > > Sent: 5/2/2013 10:42 AM
                  > > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                  > >
                  > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > Hi Barend,
                  > >
                  > > Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will try
                  > > it.
                  > >
                  > > The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.
                  > >
                  > > I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.
                  > >
                  > > Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in match?
                  > >
                  > > Thanks again
                  > >
                  > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > > Hi,
                  > > >
                  > > > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos attached.
                  > > Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked great:
                  > > > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4 bolts
                  > > h olding a plate to the gearbox)
                  > > > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking them
                  > > off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the alignment)
                  > > > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down. (I
                  > > had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
                  > > > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up
                  > > and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back and
                  > > forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine mounts
                  > > back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need and
                  > > don't drop the engine off the bed.
                  > > > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do it
                  > > yourself, or let the yard do it.
                  > > >
                  > > > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or use
                  > > Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a Westerbeke
                  > > mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm that the
                  > > specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
                  > > > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it seems.
                  > > Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
                  > > >
                  > > > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To:
                  > > Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                  > > > From: dtushingham@
                  > >
                  > > > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
                  > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look original to
                  > > the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when
                  > > motoring.
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's the
                  > > best way to raise the engine.
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees, there's a
                  > > spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's a new
                  > > shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put the
                  > > new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
                  > > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  >
                • Peter Tollini
                  If they are too obstinate, a Craftsman nut cracker might be faster and easier. If that fails, a Dremel with a cut off wheel or a Sawzall would be appropriate
                  Message 8 of 18 , May 3, 2013
                  • 0 Attachment
                    If they are too obstinate, a Craftsman nut cracker might be faster and easier. If that fails, a Dremel with a cut off wheel or a Sawzall would be appropriate escalation.

                    Pete


                    On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 3:33 PM, genkinyc <dtushingham@...> wrote:
                     

                    Talked with PYI this morning and they are recommending the following mounts all around for the W18. I'm probably going to go with them.

                    http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=800041&options=&sn=10

                    Just took a look at the rear mounts on my boat, god only knows how I'm going to get those off, some PB Blaster went on and we will see this weekend.



                    --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > I'm looking at doing the same project. The mounts are Bushings - $45, PYI -
                    > $80, and W - $135. The $140 difference between the bushings and the PYI
                    > isn't really significant, given the labor and it's a one-time purchase, if
                    > there is a clear difference in quality. The Bushings Inc. mounts have
                    > always been considered a better choice than the OEMs, but the PYI throws a
                    > new wrinkle in.
                    > Any thoughts?
                    > Pete
                    >
                    >
                    > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Barend Brink <barendb@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > > **

                    > >
                    > >
                    > > Yes, the Bushings were an exact match. The only close match was the
                    > > height. The lowest setting on the front (or back, can't remember) were
                    > > almost too high.
                    > >
                    > > If you want to spend the extra money, PYI makes great products.
                    > >
                    > > Sent from my Windows Phone
                    > > ------------------------------
                    > > From: genkinyc <dtushingham@...>

                    > > Sent: 5/2/2013 10:42 AM
                    > > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                    > >
                    > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > Hi Barend,
                    > >
                    > > Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will try
                    > > it.
                    > >
                    > > The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.
                    > >
                    > > I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.
                    > >
                    > > Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in match?
                    > >
                    > > Thanks again
                    > >
                    > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > > > Hi,
                    > > >
                    > > > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos attached.
                    > > Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked great:
                    > > > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4 bolts
                    > > h olding a plate to the gearbox)
                    > > > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking them
                    > > off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the alignment)
                    > > > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down. (I
                    > > had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
                    > > > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up
                    > > and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back and
                    > > forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine mounts
                    > > back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need and
                    > > don't drop the engine off the bed.
                    > > > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do it
                    > > yourself, or let the yard do it.
                    > > >
                    > > > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or use
                    > > Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a Westerbeke
                    > > mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm that the
                    > > specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
                    > > > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it seems.
                    > > Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
                    > > >
                    > > > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To:
                    > > Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                    > > > From: dtushingham@
                    > >
                    > > > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
                    > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look original to
                    > > the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when
                    > > motoring.
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's the
                    > > best way to raise the engine.
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees, there's a
                    > > spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's a new
                    > > shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put the
                    > > new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
                    > > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    >


                  • Barend Brink
                    I used the sawsall on my back motor mounts. To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com From: pete@tollini.com Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 16:05:48 -0400 Subject: Re:
                    Message 9 of 18 , May 3, 2013
                    • 0 Attachment
                      I used the sawsall on my back motor mounts.
                       

                      To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                      From: pete@...
                      Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 16:05:48 -0400
                      Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement

                       
                      If they are too obstinate, a Craftsman nut cracker might be faster and easier. If that fails, a Dremel with a cut off wheel or a Sawzall would be appropriate escalation.

                      Pete


                      On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 3:33 PM, genkinyc <dtushingham@...> wrote:
                       

                      Talked with PYI this morning and they are recommending the following mounts all around for the W18. I'm probably going to go with them.

                      http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=800041&options=&sn=10

                      Just took a look at the rear mounts on my boat, god only knows how I'm going to get those off, some PB Blaster went on and we will see this weekend.



                      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > I'm looking at doing the same project. The mounts are Bushings - $45, PYI -
                      > $80, and W - $135. The $140 difference between the bushings and the PYI
                      > isn't really significant, given the labor and it's a one-time purchase, if
                      > there is a clear difference in quality. The Bushings Inc. mounts have
                      > always been considered a better choice than the OEMs, but the PYI throws a
                      > new wrinkle in.
                      > Any thoughts?
                      > Pete
                      >
                      >
                      > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Barend Brink <barendb@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > > **

                      > >
                      > >
                      > > Yes, the Bushings were an exact match. The only close match was the
                      > > height. The lowest setting on the front (or back, can't remember) were
                      > > almost too high.
                      > >
                      > > If you want to spend the extra money, PYI makes great products.
                      > >
                      > > Sent from my Windows Phone
                      > > ------------------------------
                      > > From: genkinyc <dtushingham@...>

                      > > Sent: 5/2/2013 10:42 AM
                      > > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                      > >
                      > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > Hi Barend,
                      > >
                      > > Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will try
                      > > it.
                      > >
                      > > The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.
                      > >
                      > > I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.
                      > >
                      > > Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in match?
                      > >
                      > > Thanks again
                      > >
                      > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                      > >
                      > > > Hi,
                      > > >
                      > > > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos attached.
                      > > Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked great:
                      > > > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4 bolts
                      > > h olding a plate to the gearbox)
                      > > > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking them
                      > > off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the alignment)
                      > > > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down. (I
                      > > had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
                      > > > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up
                      > > and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back and
                      > > forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine mounts
                      > > back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need and
                      > > don't drop the engine off the bed.
                      > > > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do it
                      > > yourself, or let the yard do it.
                      > > >
                      > > > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or use
                      > > Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a Westerbeke
                      > > mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm that the
                      > > specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
                      > > > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it seems.
                      > > Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
                      > > >
                      > > > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To:
                      > > Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                      > > > From: dtushingham@
                      > >
                      > > > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
                      > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look original to
                      > > the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when
                      > > motoring.
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's the
                      > > best way to raise the engine.
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees, there's a
                      > > spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's a new
                      > > shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put the
                      > > new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
                      > > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      >




                    • genkinyc
                      Following up. Got all four of the old mounts out and the engine raised and blocked. I had to use a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel on the bolts. To lift the
                      Message 10 of 18 , Jun 8, 2013
                      • 0 Attachment
                        Following up. Got all four of the old mounts out and the engine raised and blocked. I had to use a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel on the bolts. To lift the engine an Audi A4 factory scissor jack worked well. There's not much clearance under there.

                        Problem is that the rear bolt head for the front port side engine mount sheared off leaving the bolt in the engine mount bed.

                        All attempts to drill this out, back it out with ez-outs and reverse drill bits have failed and I'm looking for advice here.

                        There appears to be sufficient room next to the factory hole for me to drill and tap another.

                        Regarding the engine bed, is there metal encased inside the glass or is it glass drilled/tapped and then a heli-coil inserted?

                        I'm wondering if we might get away with drilling/tapping the glass and inserting a heli-coil?

                        Anyone have any ideas or experience with this?

                        Thanks




                        --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > If they are too obstinate, a Craftsman nut cracker might be faster and
                        > easier. If that fails, a Dremel with a cut off wheel or a Sawzall would be
                        > appropriate escalation.
                        > http://www.sears.com/craftsman-nut-cracker/p-00904772000P
                        >
                        > Pete
                        >
                        >
                        > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 3:33 PM, genkinyc <dtushingham@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > > **
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > Talked with PYI this morning and they are recommending the following
                        > > mounts all around for the W18. I'm probably going to go with them.
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=800041&options=&sn=10
                        > >
                        > > Just took a look at the rear mounts on my boat, god only knows how I'm
                        > > going to get those off, some PB Blaster went on and we will see this
                        > > weekend.
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                        > > >
                        > > > I'm looking at doing the same project. The mounts are Bushings - $45,
                        > > PYI -
                        > > > $80, and W - $135. The $140 difference between the bushings and the PYI
                        > > > isn't really significant, given the labor and it's a one-time purchase,
                        > > if
                        > > > there is a clear difference in quality. The Bushings Inc. mounts have
                        > > > always been considered a better choice than the OEMs, but the PYI throws
                        > > a
                        > > > new wrinkle in.
                        > > > Any thoughts?
                        > > > Pete
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                        > > >
                        > > > > **
                        > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Yes, the Bushings were an exact match. The only close match was the
                        > > > > height. The lowest setting on the front (or back, can't remember) were
                        > > > > almost too high.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > If you want to spend the extra money, PYI makes great products.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Sent from my Windows Phone
                        > > > > ------------------------------
                        > > > > From: genkinyc <dtushingham@>
                        > >
                        > > > > Sent: 5/2/2013 10:42 AM
                        > > > > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Hi Barend,
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will
                        > > try
                        > > > > it.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in
                        > > match?
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Thanks again
                        > > > >
                        > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                        > > > >
                        > > > > > Hi,
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos
                        > > attached.
                        > > > > Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked
                        > > great:
                        > > > > > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4
                        > > bolts
                        > > > > h olding a plate to the gearbox)
                        > > > > > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking
                        > > them
                        > > > > off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the
                        > > alignment)
                        > > > > > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down.
                        > > (I
                        > > > > had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
                        > > > > > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up
                        > > > > and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back
                        > > and
                        > > > > forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine
                        > > mounts
                        > > > > back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need
                        > > and
                        > > > > don't drop the engine off the bed.
                        > > > > > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do
                        > > it
                        > > > > yourself, or let the yard do it.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or
                        > > use
                        > > > > Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a
                        > > Westerbeke
                        > > > > mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm
                        > > that the
                        > > > > specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
                        > > > > > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it
                        > > seems.
                        > > > > Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To:
                        > > > > Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                        > > > > > From: dtushingham@
                        > > > >
                        > > > > > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
                        > > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look
                        > > original to
                        > > > > the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when
                        > > > > motoring.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's
                        > > the
                        > > > > best way to raise the engine.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees,
                        > > there's a
                        > > > > spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's
                        > > a new
                        > > > > shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put
                        > > the
                        > > > > new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
                        > > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        >
                      • Dave Lochner
                        No need to drill, tap, and use a helicoil. You can overdrill the hole, fill the hole with thickened epoxy, and put a lubricated bolt into the epoxy. This will
                        Message 11 of 18 , Jun 8, 2013
                        • 0 Attachment
                          No need to drill, tap, and use a helicoil. You can overdrill the hole, fill the hole with thickened epoxy, and put a lubricated bolt into the epoxy. This will put threads into the epoxy.  West System explains it better with drawings.


                          Dave


                          On Jun 8, 2013, at 10:39 PM, genkinyc wrote:

                           

                          Following up. Got all four of the old mounts out and the engine raised and blocked. I had to use a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel on the bolts. To lift the engine an Audi A4 factory scissor jack worked well. There's not much clearance under there.

                          Problem is that the rear bolt head for the front port side engine mount sheared off leaving the bolt in the engine mount bed.

                          All attempts to drill this out, back it out with ez-outs and reverse drill bits have failed and I'm looking for advice here.

                          There appears to be sufficient room next to the factory hole for me to drill and tap another.

                          Regarding the engine bed, is there metal encased inside the glass or is it glass drilled/tapped and then a heli-coil inserted?

                          I'm wondering if we might get away with drilling/tapping the glass and inserting a heli-coil?

                          Anyone have any ideas or experience with this?

                          Thanks

                          --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > If they are too obstinate, a Craftsman nut cracker might be faster and
                          > easier. If that fails, a Dremel with a cut off wheel or a Sawzall would be
                          > appropriate escalation.
                          > http://www.sears.com/craftsman-nut-cracker/p-00904772000P
                          >
                          > Pete
                          >
                          >
                          > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 3:33 PM, genkinyc <dtushingham@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > > **
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > Talked with PYI this morning and they are recommending the following
                          > > mounts all around for the W18. I'm probably going to go with them.
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=800041&options=&sn=10
                          > >
                          > > Just took a look at the rear mounts on my boat, god only knows how I'm
                          > > going to get those off, some PB Blaster went on and we will see this
                          > > weekend.
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > > I'm looking at doing the same project. The mounts are Bushings - $45,
                          > > PYI -
                          > > > $80, and W - $135. The $140 difference between the bushings and the PYI
                          > > > isn't really significant, given the labor and it's a one-time purchase,
                          > > if
                          > > > there is a clear difference in quality. The Bushings Inc. mounts have
                          > > > always been considered a better choice than the OEMs, but the PYI throws
                          > > a
                          > > > new wrinkle in.
                          > > > Any thoughts?
                          > > > Pete
                          > > >
                          > > >
                          > > > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > > > **
                          > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Yes, the Bushings were an exact match. The only close match was the
                          > > > > height. The lowest setting on the front (or back, can't remember) were
                          > > > > almost too high.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > If you want to spend the extra money, PYI makes great products.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Sent from my Windows Phone
                          > > > > ------------------------------
                          > > > > From: genkinyc <dtushingham@>
                          > >
                          > > > > Sent: 5/2/2013 10:42 AM
                          > > > > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                          > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Hi Barend,
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will
                          > > try
                          > > > > it.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in
                          > > match?
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Thanks again
                          > > > >
                          > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                          > > > >
                          > > > > > Hi,
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos
                          > > attached.
                          > > > > Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked
                          > > great:
                          > > > > > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4
                          > > bolts
                          > > > > h olding a plate to the gearbox)
                          > > > > > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking
                          > > them
                          > > > > off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the
                          > > alignment)
                          > > > > > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down.
                          > > (I
                          > > > > had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
                          > > > > > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up
                          > > > > and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back
                          > > and
                          > > > > forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine
                          > > mounts
                          > > > > back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need
                          > > and
                          > > > > don't drop the engine off the bed.
                          > > > > > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do
                          > > it
                          > > > > yourself, or let the yard do it.
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or
                          > > use
                          > > > > Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a
                          > > Westerbeke
                          > > > > mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm
                          > > that the
                          > > > > specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
                          > > > > > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it
                          > > seems.
                          > > > > Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To:
                          > > > > Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                          > > > > > From: dtushingham@
                          > > > >
                          > > > > > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
                          > > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look
                          > > original to
                          > > > > the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when
                          > > > > motoring.
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's
                          > > the
                          > > > > best way to raise the engine.
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees,
                          > > there's a
                          > > > > spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's
                          > > a new
                          > > > > shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put
                          > > the
                          > > > > new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
                          > > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          >


                        • genkinyc
                          Hi Dave, I had problems trying to oversize drill it out because one of the hardened reverse drill bits broke off inside the bolt :-( I could perhaps cut it out
                          Message 12 of 18 , Jun 9, 2013
                          • 0 Attachment
                            Hi Dave,

                            I had problems trying to oversize drill it out because one of the hardened reverse drill bits broke off inside the bolt :-(

                            I could perhaps cut it out with a Dremel or something and then fill with epoxy.

                            Thanks for the tip.

                            --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Dave Lochner <davelochner@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > No need to drill, tap, and use a helicoil. You can overdrill the hole, fill the hole with thickened epoxy, and put a lubricated bolt into the epoxy. This will put threads into the epoxy. West System explains it better with drawings.
                            >
                            > http://www.westsystem.com/ss/bonding-hardware/
                            >
                            > Dave
                            >
                            >
                            > On Jun 8, 2013, at 10:39 PM, genkinyc wrote:
                            >
                            > > Following up. Got all four of the old mounts out and the engine raised and blocked. I had to use a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel on the bolts. To lift the engine an Audi A4 factory scissor jack worked well. There's not much clearance under there.
                            > >
                            > > Problem is that the rear bolt head for the front port side engine mount sheared off leaving the bolt in the engine mount bed.
                            > >
                            > > All attempts to drill this out, back it out with ez-outs and reverse drill bits have failed and I'm looking for advice here.
                            > >
                            > > There appears to be sufficient room next to the factory hole for me to drill and tap another.
                            > >
                            > > Regarding the engine bed, is there metal encased inside the glass or is it glass drilled/tapped and then a heli-coil inserted?
                            > >
                            > > I'm wondering if we might get away with drilling/tapping the glass and inserting a heli-coil?
                            > >
                            > > Anyone have any ideas or experience with this?
                            > >
                            > > Thanks
                            > >
                            > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                            > > >
                            > > > If they are too obstinate, a Craftsman nut cracker might be faster and
                            > > > easier. If that fails, a Dremel with a cut off wheel or a Sawzall would be
                            > > > appropriate escalation.
                            > > > http://www.sears.com/craftsman-nut-cracker/p-00904772000P
                            > > >
                            > > > Pete
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 3:33 PM, genkinyc <dtushingham@> wrote:
                            > > >
                            > > > > **
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Talked with PYI this morning and they are recommending the following
                            > > > > mounts all around for the W18. I'm probably going to go with them.
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > > http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=800041&options=&sn=10
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Just took a look at the rear mounts on my boat, god only knows how I'm
                            > > > > going to get those off, some PB Blaster went on and we will see this
                            > > > > weekend.
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > I'm looking at doing the same project. The mounts are Bushings - $45,
                            > > > > PYI -
                            > > > > > $80, and W - $135. The $140 difference between the bushings and the PYI
                            > > > > > isn't really significant, given the labor and it's a one-time purchase,
                            > > > > if
                            > > > > > there is a clear difference in quality. The Bushings Inc. mounts have
                            > > > > > always been considered a better choice than the OEMs, but the PYI throws
                            > > > > a
                            > > > > > new wrinkle in.
                            > > > > > Any thoughts?
                            > > > > > Pete
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > > **
                            > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > Yes, the Bushings were an exact match. The only close match was the
                            > > > > > > height. The lowest setting on the front (or back, can't remember) were
                            > > > > > > almost too high.
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > If you want to spend the extra money, PYI makes great products.
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > Sent from my Windows Phone
                            > > > > > > ------------------------------
                            > > > > > > From: genkinyc <dtushingham@>
                            > > > >
                            > > > > > > Sent: 5/2/2013 10:42 AM
                            > > > > > > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > Hi Barend,
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will
                            > > > > try
                            > > > > > > it.
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in
                            > > > > match?
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > Thanks again
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > Hi,
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos
                            > > > > attached.
                            > > > > > > Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked
                            > > > > great:
                            > > > > > > > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4
                            > > > > bolts
                            > > > > > > h olding a plate to the gearbox)
                            > > > > > > > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking
                            > > > > them
                            > > > > > > off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the
                            > > > > alignment)
                            > > > > > > > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down.
                            > > > > (I
                            > > > > > > had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
                            > > > > > > > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up
                            > > > > > > and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back
                            > > > > and
                            > > > > > > forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine
                            > > > > mounts
                            > > > > > > back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need
                            > > > > and
                            > > > > > > don't drop the engine off the bed.
                            > > > > > > > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do
                            > > > > it
                            > > > > > > yourself, or let the yard do it.
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or
                            > > > > use
                            > > > > > > Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a
                            > > > > Westerbeke
                            > > > > > > mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm
                            > > > > that the
                            > > > > > > specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
                            > > > > > > > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it
                            > > > > seems.
                            > > > > > > Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To:
                            > > > > > > Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                            > > > > > > > From: dtushingham@
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
                            > > > > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look
                            > > > > original to
                            > > > > > > the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when
                            > > > > > > motoring.
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's
                            > > > > the
                            > > > > > > best way to raise the engine.
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees,
                            > > > > there's a
                            > > > > > > spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's
                            > > > > a new
                            > > > > > > shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put
                            > > > > the
                            > > > > > > new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            >
                          • Dave Lochner
                            You could try a plug cutting drill bit. It might be too much torque for a handheld drill, tho. Cut the hole around the bolt, chip away at the wood and glass
                            Message 13 of 18 , Jun 9, 2013
                            • 0 Attachment
                              You could try a plug cutting drill bit. It might be too much torque for a handheld drill, tho. Cut the hole around the bolt, chip away at the wood and glass and use a vise grip to  unscrew it?

                              Dave


                              On Jun 9, 2013, at 9:08 AM, genkinyc wrote:

                               

                              Hi Dave,

                              I had problems trying to oversize drill it out because one of the hardened reverse drill bits broke off inside the bolt :-(

                              I could perhaps cut it out with a Dremel or something and then fill with epoxy.

                              Thanks for the tip.

                              --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Dave Lochner <davelochner@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > No need to drill, tap, and use a helicoil. You can overdrill the hole, fill the hole with thickened epoxy, and put a lubricated bolt into the epoxy. This will put threads into the epoxy. West System explains it better with drawings.
                              >
                              > http://www.westsystem.com/ss/bonding-hardware/
                              >
                              > Dave
                              >
                              >
                              > On Jun 8, 2013, at 10:39 PM, genkinyc wrote:
                              >
                              > > Following up. Got all four of the old mounts out and the engine raised and blocked. I had to use a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel on the bolts. To lift the engine an Audi A4 factory scissor jack worked well. There's not much clearance under there.
                              > >
                              > > Problem is that the rear bolt head for the front port side engine mount sheared off leaving the bolt in the engine mount bed.
                              > >
                              > > All attempts to drill this out, back it out with ez-outs and reverse drill bits have failed and I'm looking for advice here.
                              > >
                              > > There appears to be sufficient room next to the factory hole for me to drill and tap another.
                              > >
                              > > Regarding the engine bed, is there metal encased inside the glass or is it glass drilled/tapped and then a heli-coil inserted?
                              > >
                              > > I'm wondering if we might get away with drilling/tapping the glass and inserting a heli-coil?
                              > >
                              > > Anyone have any ideas or experience with this?
                              > >
                              > > Thanks
                              > >
                              > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                              > > >
                              > > > If they are too obstinate, a Craftsman nut cracker might be faster and
                              > > > easier. If that fails, a Dremel with a cut off wheel or a Sawzall would be
                              > > > appropriate escalation.
                              > > > http://www.sears.com/craftsman-nut-cracker/p-00904772000P
                              > > >
                              > > > Pete
                              > > >
                              > > >
                              > > > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 3:33 PM, genkinyc <dtushingham@> wrote:
                              > > >
                              > > > > **
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Talked with PYI this morning and they are recommending the following
                              > > > > mounts all around for the W18. I'm probably going to go with them.
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > > http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=800041&options=&sn=10
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Just took a look at the rear mounts on my boat, god only knows how I'm
                              > > > > going to get those off, some PB Blaster went on and we will see this
                              > > > > weekend.
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > > I'm looking at doing the same project. The mounts are Bushings - $45,
                              > > > > PYI -
                              > > > > > $80, and W - $135. The $140 difference between the bushings and the PYI
                              > > > > > isn't really significant, given the labor and it's a one-time purchase,
                              > > > > if
                              > > > > > there is a clear difference in quality. The Bushings Inc. mounts have
                              > > > > > always been considered a better choice than the OEMs, but the PYI throws
                              > > > > a
                              > > > > > new wrinkle in.
                              > > > > > Any thoughts?
                              > > > > > Pete
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > > > **
                              > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > Yes, the Bushings were an exact match. The only close match was the
                              > > > > > > height. The lowest setting on the front (or back, can't remember) were
                              > > > > > > almost too high.
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > If you want to spend the extra money, PYI makes great products.
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > Sent from my Windows Phone
                              > > > > > > ------------------------------
                              > > > > > > From: genkinyc <dtushingham@>
                              > > > >
                              > > > > > > Sent: 5/2/2013 10:42 AM
                              > > > > > > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > Hi Barend,
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will
                              > > > > try
                              > > > > > > it.
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in
                              > > > > match?
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > Thanks again
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > Hi,
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos
                              > > > > attached.
                              > > > > > > Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked
                              > > > > great:
                              > > > > > > > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4
                              > > > > bolts
                              > > > > > > h olding a plate to the gearbox)
                              > > > > > > > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking
                              > > > > them
                              > > > > > > off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the
                              > > > > alignment)
                              > > > > > > > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down.
                              > > > > (I
                              > > > > > > had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
                              > > > > > > > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up
                              > > > > > > and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back
                              > > > > and
                              > > > > > > forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine
                              > > > > mounts
                              > > > > > > back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need
                              > > > > and
                              > > > > > > don't drop the engine off the bed.
                              > > > > > > > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do
                              > > > > it
                              > > > > > > yourself, or let the yard do it.
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or
                              > > > > use
                              > > > > > > Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a
                              > > > > Westerbeke
                              > > > > > > mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm
                              > > > > that the
                              > > > > > > specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
                              > > > > > > > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it
                              > > > > seems.
                              > > > > > > Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To:
                              > > > > > > Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                              > > > > > > > From: dtushingham@
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
                              > > > > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
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                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look
                              > > > > original to
                              > > > > > > the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when
                              > > > > > > motoring.
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's
                              > > > > the
                              > > > > > > best way to raise the engine.
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees,
                              > > > > there's a
                              > > > > > > spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's
                              > > > > a new
                              > > > > > > shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put
                              > > > > the
                              > > > > > > new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > >
                              > >
                              > >
                              >


                            • sailor11767
                              I ve never actually seen or used one, but there is apparently a hollow drill bit, not unlike a plug cutter, designed to drill outside the bolt. This one will
                              Message 14 of 18 , Jun 9, 2013
                              • 0 Attachment
                                I've never actually seen or used one, but there is apparently a hollow drill bit, not unlike a plug cutter, designed to drill outside the bolt.

                                This one will remove a screw up to #12, and is the largest they sell. If it's not large enough, you may be able to make something.

                                http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/124212/38-Screw-Extractor.aspx

                                Harry


                                --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "genkinyc" <dtushingham@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > Hi Dave,
                                >
                                > I had problems trying to oversize drill it out because one of the hardened reverse drill bits broke off inside the bolt :-(
                                >
                                > I could perhaps cut it out with a Dremel or something and then fill with epoxy.
                                >
                                > Thanks for the tip.
                                >
                                > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Dave Lochner <davelochner@> wrote:
                                > >
                                > > No need to drill, tap, and use a helicoil. You can overdrill the hole, fill the hole with thickened epoxy, and put a lubricated bolt into the epoxy. This will put threads into the epoxy. West System explains it better with drawings.
                                > >
                                > > http://www.westsystem.com/ss/bonding-hardware/
                                > >
                                > > Dave
                                > >
                                > >
                                > > On Jun 8, 2013, at 10:39 PM, genkinyc wrote:
                                > >
                                > > > Following up. Got all four of the old mounts out and the engine raised and blocked. I had to use a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel on the bolts. To lift the engine an Audi A4 factory scissor jack worked well. There's not much clearance under there.
                                > > >
                                > > > Problem is that the rear bolt head for the front port side engine mount sheared off leaving the bolt in the engine mount bed.
                                > > >
                                > > > All attempts to drill this out, back it out with ez-outs and reverse drill bits have failed and I'm looking for advice here.
                                > > >
                                > > > There appears to be sufficient room next to the factory hole for me to drill and tap another.
                                > > >
                                > > > Regarding the engine bed, is there metal encased inside the glass or is it glass drilled/tapped and then a heli-coil inserted?
                                > > >
                                > > > I'm wondering if we might get away with drilling/tapping the glass and inserting a heli-coil?
                                > > >
                                > > > Anyone have any ideas or experience with this?
                                > > >
                                > > > Thanks
                                > > >
                                > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                                > > > >
                                > > > > If they are too obstinate, a Craftsman nut cracker might be faster and
                                > > > > easier. If that fails, a Dremel with a cut off wheel or a Sawzall would be
                                > > > > appropriate escalation.
                                > > > > http://www.sears.com/craftsman-nut-cracker/p-00904772000P
                                > > > >
                                > > > > Pete
                                > > > >
                                > > > >
                                > > > > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 3:33 PM, genkinyc <dtushingham@> wrote:
                                > > > >
                                > > > > > **
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > Talked with PYI this morning and they are recommending the following
                                > > > > > mounts all around for the W18. I'm probably going to go with them.
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=800041&options=&sn=10
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > Just took a look at the rear mounts on my boat, god only knows how I'm
                                > > > > > going to get those off, some PB Blaster went on and we will see this
                                > > > > > weekend.
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                                > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > I'm looking at doing the same project. The mounts are Bushings - $45,
                                > > > > > PYI -
                                > > > > > > $80, and W - $135. The $140 difference between the bushings and the PYI
                                > > > > > > isn't really significant, given the labor and it's a one-time purchase,
                                > > > > > if
                                > > > > > > there is a clear difference in quality. The Bushings Inc. mounts have
                                > > > > > > always been considered a better choice than the OEMs, but the PYI throws
                                > > > > > a
                                > > > > > > new wrinkle in.
                                > > > > > > Any thoughts?
                                > > > > > > Pete
                                > > > > > >
                                > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                                > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > **
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > Yes, the Bushings were an exact match. The only close match was the
                                > > > > > > > height. The lowest setting on the front (or back, can't remember) were
                                > > > > > > > almost too high.
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > If you want to spend the extra money, PYI makes great products.
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > Sent from my Windows Phone
                                > > > > > > > ------------------------------
                                > > > > > > > From: genkinyc <dtushingham@>
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > Sent: 5/2/2013 10:42 AM
                                > > > > > > > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > Hi Barend,
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will
                                > > > > > try
                                > > > > > > > it.
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in
                                > > > > > match?
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > Thanks again
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > Hi,
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos
                                > > > > > attached.
                                > > > > > > > Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked
                                > > > > > great:
                                > > > > > > > > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4
                                > > > > > bolts
                                > > > > > > > h olding a plate to the gearbox)
                                > > > > > > > > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking
                                > > > > > them
                                > > > > > > > off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the
                                > > > > > alignment)
                                > > > > > > > > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down.
                                > > > > > (I
                                > > > > > > > had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
                                > > > > > > > > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up
                                > > > > > > > and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back
                                > > > > > and
                                > > > > > > > forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine
                                > > > > > mounts
                                > > > > > > > back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need
                                > > > > > and
                                > > > > > > > don't drop the engine off the bed.
                                > > > > > > > > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do
                                > > > > > it
                                > > > > > > > yourself, or let the yard do it.
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or
                                > > > > > use
                                > > > > > > > Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a
                                > > > > > Westerbeke
                                > > > > > > > mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm
                                > > > > > that the
                                > > > > > > > specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
                                > > > > > > > > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it
                                > > > > > seems.
                                > > > > > > > Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To:
                                > > > > > > > Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                > > > > > > > > From: dtushingham@
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
                                > > > > > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look
                                > > > > > original to
                                > > > > > > > the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when
                                > > > > > > > motoring.
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's
                                > > > > > the
                                > > > > > > > best way to raise the engine.
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees,
                                > > > > > there's a
                                > > > > > > > spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's
                                > > > > > a new
                                > > > > > > > shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put
                                > > > > > the
                                > > > > > > > new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > >
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > >
                                > > > >
                                > > >
                                > > >
                                > >
                                >
                              • sabre32sailor
                                lift the motor 3-4”. Cut that part of the stringer containing the screw out with a oscilating saw.
                                Message 15 of 18 , Jun 10, 2013
                                • 0 Attachment
                                  lift the motor 3-4”.
                                  Cut that part of the stringer containing the screw out with a oscilating saw.
                                  Then rebuild with wood and glass.
                                  I would go long and use screws to give a mechanical fastening.
                                   
                                  Sent from Windows Mail
                                   
                                  From: genkinyc
                                  Sent: ‎Saturday‎, ‎June‎ ‎8‎, ‎2013 ‎10‎:‎39‎ ‎PM
                                  To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                   
                                   

                                  Following up. Got all four of the old mounts out and the engine raised and blocked. I had to use a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel on the bolts. To lift the engine an Audi A4 factory scissor jack worked well. There's not much clearance under there.

                                  Problem is that the rear bolt head for the front port side engine mount sheared off leaving the bolt in the engine mount bed.

                                  All attempts to drill this out, back it out with ez-outs and reverse drill bits have failed and I'm looking for advice here.

                                  There appears to be sufficient room next to the factory hole for me to drill and tap another.

                                  Regarding the engine bed, is there metal encased inside the glass or is it glass drilled/tapped and then a heli-coil inserted?

                                  I'm wondering if we might get away with drilling/tapping the glass and inserting a heli-coil?

                                  Anyone have any ideas or experience with this?

                                  Thanks

                                  --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > If they are too obstinate, a Craftsman nut cracker might be faster and
                                  > easier. If that fails, a Dremel with a cut off wheel or a Sawzall would be
                                  > appropriate escalation.
                                  > http://www.sears.com/craftsman-nut-cracker/p-00904772000P
                                  >
                                  > Pete
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 3:33 PM, genkinyc <dtushingham@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > > **
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > Talked with PYI this morning and they are recommending the following
                                  > > mounts all around for the W18. I'm probably going to go with them.
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=800041&options=&sn=10
                                  > >
                                  > > Just took a look at the rear mounts on my boat, god only knows how I'm
                                  > > going to get those off, some PB Blaster went on and we will see this
                                  > > weekend.
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                                  > > >
                                  > > > I'm looking at doing the same project. The mounts are Bushings - $45,
                                  > > PYI -
                                  > > > $80, and W - $135. The $140 difference between the bushings and the PYI
                                  > > > isn't really significant, given the labor and it's a one-time purchase,
                                  > > if
                                  > > > there is a clear difference in quality. The Bushings Inc. mounts have
                                  > > > always been considered a better choice than the OEMs, but the PYI throws
                                  > > a
                                  > > > new wrinkle in.
                                  > > > Any thoughts?
                                  > > > Pete
                                  > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > > > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                                  > > >
                                  > > > > **
                                  > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Yes, the Bushings were an exact match. The only close match was the
                                  > > > > height. The lowest setting on the front (or back, can't remember) were
                                  > > > > almost too high.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > If you want to spend the extra money, PYI makes great products.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Sent from my Windows Phone
                                  > > > > ------------------------------
                                  > > > > From: genkinyc <dtushingham@>
                                  > >
                                  > > > > Sent: 5/2/2013 10:42 AM
                                  > > > > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Hi Barend,
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will
                                  > > try
                                  > > > > it.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in
                                  > > match?
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Thanks again
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > > Hi,
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos
                                  > > attached.
                                  > > > > Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked
                                  > > great:
                                  > > > > > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4
                                  > > bolts
                                  > > > > h olding a plate to the gearbox)
                                  > > > > > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking
                                  > > them
                                  > > > > off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the
                                  > > alignment)
                                  > > > > > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down.
                                  > > (I
                                  > > > > had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
                                  > > > > > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up
                                  > > > > and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back
                                  > > and
                                  > > > > forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine
                                  > > mounts
                                  > > > > back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need
                                  > > and
                                  > > > > don't drop the engine off the bed.
                                  > > > > > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do
                                  > > it
                                  > > > > yourself, or let the yard do it.
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or
                                  > > use
                                  > > > > Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a
                                  > > Westerbeke
                                  > > > > mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm
                                  > > that the
                                  > > > > specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
                                  > > > > > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it
                                  > > seems.
                                  > > > > Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To:
                                  > > > > Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                  > > > > > From: dtushingham@
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
                                  > > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look
                                  > > original to
                                  > > > > the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when
                                  > > > > motoring.
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's
                                  > > the
                                  > > > > best way to raise the engine.
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees,
                                  > > there's a
                                  > > > > spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's
                                  > > a new
                                  > > > > shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put
                                  > > the
                                  > > > > new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  >

                                • genkinyc
                                  Thanks for the replies, all of the above options are sounding a little daunting to me as I don t have any experience with fiberglass work.
                                  Message 16 of 18 , Jun 10, 2013
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    Thanks for the replies, all of the above options are sounding a little daunting to me as I don't have any experience with fiberglass work.

                                    --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, <sabre32sailor@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > lift the motor 3-4”.
                                    >
                                    > Cut that part of the stringer containing the screw out with a oscilating saw.
                                    >
                                    > http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68861-8493.html
                                    >
                                    > Then rebuild with wood and glass.
                                    >
                                    > I would go long and use screws to give a mechanical fastening.
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > Sent from Windows Mail
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > From: genkinyc
                                    > Sent: ‎Saturday‎, ‎June‎ ‎8‎, ‎2013 ‎10‎:‎39‎ ‎PM
                                    > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > Following up. Got all four of the old mounts out and the engine raised and blocked. I had to use a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel on the bolts. To lift the engine an Audi A4 factory scissor jack worked well. There's not much clearance under there.
                                    >
                                    > Problem is that the rear bolt head for the front port side engine mount sheared off leaving the bolt in the engine mount bed.
                                    >
                                    > All attempts to drill this out, back it out with ez-outs and reverse drill bits have failed and I'm looking for advice here.
                                    >
                                    > There appears to be sufficient room next to the factory hole for me to drill and tap another.
                                    >
                                    > Regarding the engine bed, is there metal encased inside the glass or is it glass drilled/tapped and then a heli-coil inserted?
                                    >
                                    > I'm wondering if we might get away with drilling/tapping the glass and inserting a heli-coil?
                                    >
                                    > Anyone have any ideas or experience with this?
                                    >
                                    > Thanks
                                    >
                                    > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > > If they are too obstinate, a Craftsman nut cracker might be faster and
                                    > > easier. If that fails, a Dremel with a cut off wheel or a Sawzall would be
                                    > > appropriate escalation.
                                    > > http://www.sears.com/craftsman-nut-cracker/p-00904772000P
                                    > >
                                    > > Pete
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 3:33 PM, genkinyc <dtushingham@> wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > > > **
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Talked with PYI this morning and they are recommending the following
                                    > > > mounts all around for the W18. I'm probably going to go with them.
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > > http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=browse&action=product-detail&sku=800041&options=&sn=10
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Just took a look at the rear mounts on my boat, god only knows how I'm
                                    > > > going to get those off, some PB Blaster went on and we will see this
                                    > > > weekend.
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > I'm looking at doing the same project. The mounts are Bushings - $45,
                                    > > > PYI -
                                    > > > > $80, and W - $135. The $140 difference between the bushings and the PYI
                                    > > > > isn't really significant, given the labor and it's a one-time purchase,
                                    > > > if
                                    > > > > there is a clear difference in quality. The Bushings Inc. mounts have
                                    > > > > always been considered a better choice than the OEMs, but the PYI throws
                                    > > > a
                                    > > > > new wrinkle in.
                                    > > > > Any thoughts?
                                    > > > > Pete
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > > **
                                    > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Yes, the Bushings were an exact match. The only close match was the
                                    > > > > > height. The lowest setting on the front (or back, can't remember) were
                                    > > > > > almost too high.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > If you want to spend the extra money, PYI makes great products.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Sent from my Windows Phone
                                    > > > > > ------------------------------
                                    > > > > > From: genkinyc <dtushingham@>
                                    > > >
                                    > > > > > Sent: 5/2/2013 10:42 AM
                                    > > > > > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Hi Barend,
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Thanks for the help, that's a great idea to use a basketball. I will
                                    > > > try
                                    > > > > > it.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > The Westerbeke mounts are listing for $167 each, ouch.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > I looked up the Bushings Inc DF2205-2 and they are $48 each.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Looks like I'm going with the Bushings, are they an exact drop in
                                    > > > match?
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Thanks again
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Barend Brink <barendb@> wrote:
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > Hi,
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > I did the same job on my W27A 3 years back. Here are 2 photos
                                    > > > attached.
                                    > > > > > Somebody on the group suggested the following method and it worked
                                    > > > great:
                                    > > > > > > 1. Disconnect the drive shaft from the gearbox (there should be 4
                                    > > > bolts
                                    > > > > > h olding a plate to the gearbox)
                                    > > > > > > 2. Put marks on the height of the old engine mounts before taking
                                    > > > them
                                    > > > > > off. (Makes it easier to get a basic setting before doing the
                                    > > > alignment)
                                    > > > > > > 3. Loosen the nuts on the old engine mounts holding the engine down.
                                    > > > (I
                                    > > > > > had to use a sawsall to cut 2 bolts. They would not budge)
                                    > > > > > > 4. Take a deflated basketball and put it under the engine. Pump it up
                                    > > > > > and the engine will lift. Keep control while swiveling the engine back
                                    > > > and
                                    > > > > > forth to remove one engine mount at a time and put the new engine
                                    > > > mounts
                                    > > > > > back in. Be careful not to inflate the basketball more than you need
                                    > > > and
                                    > > > > > don't drop the engine off the bed.
                                    > > > > > > 5. Re-attach the shaft to the gearbox and set alignment. You can do
                                    > > > it
                                    > > > > > yourself, or let the yard do it.
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > Which engine mounts? You can buy Westerbeke for $120 or more each or
                                    > > > use
                                    > > > > > Bushings Inc DF2205-2 the ones in the photo below. I spoke to a
                                    > > > Westerbeke
                                    > > > > > mechanic and he uses the Bushings ones as well. You should confirm
                                    > > > that the
                                    > > > > > specs on the mounts for your specific engine before purchasing them.
                                    > > > > > > Here are 2 photos. Good luck on the project. It is easier than it
                                    > > > seems.
                                    > > > > > Regards//Barend (Yen Shon, 1989 S34II #376)
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > OLD Motor Mounts New Motor Mounts INstalled To:
                                    > > > > > Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                                    > > > > > > From: dtushingham@
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 13:24:40 +0000
                                    > > > > > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] S30 MKIII - W18 Engine Mount replacement
                                    > > > > > >
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                                    > > > > > > I'm fairly certain that my engine mounts are shot, they look
                                    > > > original to
                                    > > > > > the boat and are very rusty, also there's considerable vibration when
                                    > > > > > motoring.
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > You guys have any hints or tips on how to get this done on an 86 W30?
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > I'm not sure what other hardware will need to be removed or what's
                                    > > > the
                                    > > > > > best way to raise the engine.
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > The shaft does not currently move freely through 360 degrees,
                                    > > > there's a
                                    > > > > > spot where is is harder to turn. I'm assuming this is alignment (it's
                                    > > > a new
                                    > > > > > shaft with a new PSS dripless shaft seal)
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > So would it be correct to just uncouple this, raise engine and put
                                    > > > the
                                    > > > > > new mounts in then let the yard do a re-alignment?
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
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                                    >
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