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Re: Shower fauset

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  • Skip Hardy
    I replaced the original shower faucet with one from Jaclo. It looks like this one: http://www.jaclo.com/products/detail?pid=5&cid=150. The hose connects to
    Message 1 of 9 , Apr 21, 2013
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      I replaced the original shower faucet with one from Jaclo.  It looks like this one: http://www.jaclo.com/products/detail?pid=5&cid=150
      The hose connects to the original fixture. It's standard plumbing and doesn't have to be 'marine'. 

      Fair winds ~~~~(\_~~~~Skip
      Sv Moondance, S38 MII
    • g_ingram
      I have posted pictures of the fauset in the Photoes under Paddington album name. I looked at the fauset to see how to remove the stem assembly which is made of
      Message 2 of 9 , Apr 21, 2013
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        I have posted pictures of the fauset in the Photoes under Paddington album name. I looked at the fauset to see how to remove the stem assembly which is made of plastic. I tried to turn the stem with pliers and it did not want to move. I did not force it because I did not want to crack the plastic. My problem is that the center of the stem is leaking. This is were the handle attaches. I have replaced fauset stem assemblies on my home fausets before and it would be nice to just replace this cartidge as well but I just can not get it to move.

        George

        --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "g_ingram" <george-ingram@...> wrote:
        >
        > I need to replace the shower fauset in the head on my Sabre 38 MKII 1989. I can not find anything that will just drop in. I talked to Glen at Sabre and he said they changed vendors several years ago and there is a different mounting. I would like to have the shower hose still come out the back. Does anyone have a recommendation.
        > It I could fine a manual so that I could disassemble the old unit that would also help.
        >
        > Thanks
        > George
        >
      • Skip
        I posted some photos of my faucet upgrade in a folder called Moondance. It s probably more elaborate than you re planning to do but we were cruising for 8
        Message 3 of 9 , Apr 22, 2013
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          I posted some photos of my faucet upgrade in a folder called Moondance. It's probably more elaborate than you're planning to do but we were cruising for 8 months and wanted to have a mixer valve instead of separate handles to control the water temperature. This upgrade involved moving the shower sump switch to the side and having a plastic plate made to cover the hole and mount the new faucet. There's nothing special about the plumbing--you can use any household fixture that has a separate shower handle. This setup works great for us.

          Skip
        • Bennett Kaufman
          Skip wrote on 4/22/13: I posted some photos of my faucet upgrade in a folder called Moondance. It s probably more elaborate than you re planning to do but we
          Message 4 of 9 , Apr 22, 2013
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            Skip wrote on 4/22/13: I posted some photos of my faucet upgrade in a folder called Moondance. It's probably more elaborate than you're planning to do but we were cruising for 8 months and wanted to have a mixer valve instead of separate handles to control the water temperature. This upgrade involved moving the shower sump switch to the side and having a plastic plate made to cover the hole and mount the new faucet. There's nothing special about the plumbing--you can use any household fixture that has a separate shower handle. This setup works great for us.
            Skip,
             
            That's pretty much what I did when the original two-handle fixture on my S36 got corroded and needed replacement. I used a single-handle mixing valve from Scandvik (ordered at the Boat Show). On the S36, the shower faucet is mounted on the panel behind the toilet, so installation was no problem since the hoses were easy to reach and attach to the valve. Rather than use a piece of plastic, like you did, I used a thin piece of teak to cover the old holes, and drilled a new hole in the middle to accomodate the new valve. The shower head (probably the original unit...it still works) is located on the vanity top next to the sink.
             
            ben kaufman, CARACOL (S36 #52)
          • Jim Starkey
            Something else to consider is installing a thermostatic mixing valve. There are two kinds. An anti-scald value, available for around $75, has a single
            Message 5 of 9 , Apr 22, 2013
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              Something else to consider is installing a thermostatic mixing valve.  There are two kinds.  An anti-scald value, available for around $75, has a single temperature setting that gets locked in.  A thermostatic mixing value is much more expensive ($350+) but is "user adjustable".  An anti-scald valve is also much smaller.

              I replaced the cheapo shower controls on my 36 with an anti-scald valve.  The one I got at the local plumbing store fit the center hole perfectly and I capped off the other two.  It didn't take long to zero in on the perfect temperature and I lived happily ever after.

              On 4/22/13 12:11 PM, Bennett Kaufman wrote:
               

              Skip wrote on 4/22/13: I posted some photos of my faucet upgrade in a folder called Moondance. It's probably more elaborate than you're planning to do but we were cruising for 8 months and wanted to have a mixer valve instead of separate handles to control the water temperature. This upgrade involved moving the shower sump switch to the side and having a plastic plate made to cover the hole and mount the new faucet. There's nothing special about the plumbing--you can use any household fixture that has a separate shower handle. This setup works great for us.
              Skip,
               
              That's pretty much what I did when the original two-handle fixture on my S36 got corroded and needed replacement. I used a single-handle mixing valve from Scandvik (ordered at the Boat Show). On the S36, the shower faucet is mounted on the panel behind the toilet, so installation was no problem since the hoses were easy to reach and attach to the valve. Rather than use a piece of plastic, like you did, I used a thin piece of teak to cover the old holes, and drilled a new hole in the middle to accomodate the new valve. The shower head (probably the original unit...it still works) is located on the vanity top next to the sink.
               
              ben kaufman, CARACOL (S36 #52)


            • Peter Tollini
              The price of mixing shower valves has dropped dramatically. A Delta TempAssure shower valve & trim can be found for a little over $200. It automatically
              Message 6 of 9 , Apr 23, 2013
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                The price of mixing shower valves has dropped dramatically.  A Delta TempAssure shower valve & trim can be found for a little over $200.  It automatically mixes cold with hot water to maintain a constant temp. That way it doesn't matter if your water heater is on shore power at 125 degrees, or is at 160 degress (owwww!) after a good motor.
                Unless you put a mixing valve at the water heater, though, you can still scald yourself at the sink.
                Pete



                On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 12:41 PM, Jim Starkey <jim@...> wrote:
                 

                Something else to consider is installing a thermostatic mixing valve.  There are two kinds.  An anti-scald value, available for around $75, has a single temperature setting that gets locked in.  A thermostatic mixing value is much more expensive ($350+) but is "user adjustable".  An anti-scald valve is also much smaller.

                I replaced the cheapo shower controls on my 36 with an anti-scald valve.  The one I got at the local plumbing store fit the center hole perfectly and I capped off the other two.  It didn't take long to zero in on the perfect temperature and I lived happily ever after.


                On 4/22/13 12:11 PM, Bennett Kaufman wrote:
                 

                Skip wrote on 4/22/13: I posted some photos of my faucet upgrade in a folder called Moondance. It's probably more elaborate than you're planning to do but we were cruising for 8 months and wanted to have a mixer valve instead of separate handles to control the water temperature. This upgrade involved moving the shower sump switch to the side and having a plastic plate made to cover the hole and mount the new faucet. There's nothing special about the plumbing--you can use any household fixture that has a separate shower handle. This setup works great for us.
                Skip,
                 
                That's pretty much what I did when the original two-handle fixture on my S36 got corroded and needed replacement. I used a single-handle mixing valve from Scandvik (ordered at the Boat Show). On the S36, the shower faucet is mounted on the panel behind the toilet, so installation was no problem since the hoses were easy to reach and attach to the valve. Rather than use a piece of plastic, like you did, I used a thin piece of teak to cover the old holes, and drilled a new hole in the middle to accomodate the new valve. The shower head (probably the original unit...it still works) is located on the vanity top next to the sink.
                 
                ben kaufman, CARACOL (S36 #52)



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