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Re: Sabre 28 Mk-1 Portlight Replacement

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  • jak0570
    Thanks Dave. The Sabre Diagram calls for Butyl and the Silpruf, so that sounds all good. However the Diagram calls it Precast Silpruf...? No idea what how a
    Message 1 of 25 , Apr 11, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      Thanks Dave.

      The Sabre Diagram calls for Butyl and the Silpruf, so that sounds all
      good. However the Diagram calls it "Precast" Silpruf...? No idea what how a precast silicone would look, but I've an idea now how to do tackle the re-bedding.

      I got the Silicone remover from Jamestown Dist., let's see how that works.

      The main issue (work) will really be to get the frames squeaky clean before re-installing.

      I am also still wondering how the inner trim develops enough pull to pull the outer flange tightly against the cabin side?

      Those screws that go into the inside of the outer flange don't look overly powerful.

      The boat is still where I bought it on the hard, and I am eager to get her up to my place (90 miles), so I am wondering if I should go for the job now or once she'll be closer to home but on a mooring.
      Will figure it out this weekend.


      Much appreciated to have this group as a resource!


      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@...> wrote:
      >
      > 3M makes a caulk remover that works pretty well, see it here. It doesn't dissolve the caulk, rather it loosens the bond. There are other products on the market, however, this is the one that worked best for me. Ace Hardware stores carry, HD and Lowe's don't.
      >
      > When I rebuilt my ports, I used Window Weld by 3m Silpruf. It is used to bed auto windshields. At the time I was unable to find the butyl tape that RC sells. The Window Weld was wrapped around the flange that went into the hole with a bead of silpruf around the outer edge.
      >
      > There is a piece of vinyl glazing that hold the glass in the frame, it is made by CR Laurence and may be available through Amazon. The outer edge of the glazing was removed and silicone caulk sealed the joint.
      >
      > This is not a technically difficult job, just tedious removing the caulk.
      >
      > Dave
      >
      >
      > On Apr 10, 2013, at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@...> wrote:
      >
      > >
      > >
      > > Harry,
      > >
      > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
      > >
      > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand" how that port is supposed to work...
      > >
      > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so what I am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
      > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
      > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required equipment for plastic work.
      > >
      > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
      > >
      > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
      > >
      > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
      > > >
      > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
      > > >
      > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones, including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as it bends easily.
      > > >
      > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts, just a remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is here on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from him here:
      > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
      > > >
      > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
      > > > at this link:
      > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
      > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I ever get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even make them tinted.
      > > >
      > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
      > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96\7&ParentCat=380
      > > >
      > > > <http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9\67&ParentCat=380>
      > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat best.
      > > >
      > > > Good luck!
      > > >
      > > > Harry
      > > > Analysis
      > > > '79 S-34 #063
      > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
      > > >
      > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull #116.
      > > > >
      > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the outer frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws from the inner frame?
      > > > >
      > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as far as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water gets in. PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of that will be fun.
      > > > >
      > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the Mk-1?
      > > > >
      > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
      > > > >
      > > > > Thanks.
      > > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      >
    • DAVID LOCHNER
      Precast White is the name of the color. A slightly off white color that blends with the original hull color. There are about 8 or 10 screws as I recall, it is
      Message 2 of 25 , Apr 11, 2013
      • 0 Attachment

        Precast White is the name of the color. A slightly off white color that blends with the original hull color.

        There are about 8 or 10 screws as I recall, it is the number of screws that apply the pressure and the Silpruf is a structural glazing compound that has adhesive as well as sealing properties. Its intended use to glaze windows in commercial buildings. It is also pretty easy stuff to work with, it has some body to it so it doesn't run all over the place like Lifecaulk does, it only crawls. When you reinstall the screws start in the center and work out to the ends of the port.

        Even with the caulk remover, the ports will take some time to clean. I'd suggest that you wait until you get to your home port, take one port out at a time and work on them in the evening. You could make a temporary port out of plywood to keep the boat dry.

        Dave


        On Apr 11, 2013, at 10:48 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@...> wrote:

         



        Thanks Dave.

        The Sabre Diagram calls for Butyl and the Silpruf, so that sounds all
        good. However the Diagram calls it "Precast" Silpruf...? No idea what how a precast silicone would look, but I've an idea now how to do tackle the re-bedding.

        I got the Silicone remover from Jamestown Dist., let's see how that works.

        The main issue (work) will really be to get the frames squeaky clean before re-installing.

        I am also still wondering how the inner trim develops enough pull to pull the outer flange tightly against the cabin side?

        Those screws that go into the inside of the outer flange don't look overly powerful.

        The boat is still where I bought it on the hard, and I am eager to get her up to my place (90 miles), so I am wondering if I should go for the job now or once she'll be closer to home but on a mooring.
        Will figure it out this weekend.

        Much appreciated to have this group as a resource!

        --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@...> wrote:
        >
        > 3M makes a caulk remover that works pretty well, see it here. It doesn't dissolve the caulk, rather it loosens the bond. There are other products on the market, however, this is the one that worked best for me. Ace Hardware stores carry, HD and Lowe's don't.
        >
        > When I rebuilt my ports, I used Window Weld by 3m Silpruf. It is used to bed auto windshields. At the time I was unable to find the butyl tape that RC sells. The Window Weld was wrapped around the flange that went into the hole with a bead of silpruf around the outer edge.
        >
        > There is a piece of vinyl glazing that hold the glass in the frame, it is made by CR Laurence and may be available through Amazon. The outer edge of the glazing was removed and silicone caulk sealed the joint.
        >
        > This is not a technically difficult job, just tedious removing the caulk.
        >
        > Dave
        >
        >
        > On Apr 10, 2013, at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@...> wrote:
        >
        > >
        > >
        > > Harry,
        > >
        > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
        > >
        > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand" how that port is supposed to work...
        > >
        > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so what I am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
        > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
        > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required equipment for plastic work.
        > >
        > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
        > >
        > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
        > >
        > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
        > > >
        > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
        > > >
        > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones, including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as it bends easily.
        > > >
        > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts, just a remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is here on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from him here:
        > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
        > > >
        > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
        > > > at this link:
        > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
        > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I ever get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even make them tinted.
        > > >
        > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
        > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96\7&ParentCat=380
        > > >
        > > > <http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9\67&ParentCat=380>
        > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat best.
        > > >
        > > > Good luck!
        > > >
        > > > Harry
        > > > Analysis
        > > > '79 S-34 #063
        > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
        > > >
        > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
        > > > >
        > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull #116.
        > > > >
        > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the outer frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws from the inner frame?
        > > > >
        > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as far as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water gets in. PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of that will be fun.
        > > > >
        > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the Mk-1?
        > > > >
        > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
        > > > >
        > > > > Thanks.
        > > > >
        > > >
        > >
        > >
        >


      • jak0570
        Thanks for the clarification, that Pre-Cast is actually a color... And yes, I think I ll tackle it if I have her closer to home. Thought about the plywood
        Message 3 of 25 , Apr 11, 2013
        • 0 Attachment
          Thanks for the clarification, that "Pre-Cast" is actually a color...

          And yes, I think I'll tackle it if I have her closer to home.

          Thought about the plywood temporaries, wondering how I should seal them up, with work and regular life duties there is always the possibility that they have to stay in there longer than one would like.

          Thanks for your input.

          Going down to the boat this weekend, starting to get her ready.

          --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          > Precast White is the name of the color. A slightly off white color that blends with the original hull color.
          >
          > There are about 8 or 10 screws as I recall, it is the number of screws that apply the pressure and the Silpruf is a structural glazing compound that has adhesive as well as sealing properties. Its intended use to glaze windows in commercial buildings. It is also pretty easy stuff to work with, it has some body to it so it doesn't run all over the place like Lifecaulk does, it only crawls. When you reinstall the screws start in the center and work out to the ends of the port.
          >
          > Even with the caulk remover, the ports will take some time to clean. I'd suggest that you wait until you get to your home port, take one port out at a time and work on them in the evening. You could make a temporary port out of plywood to keep the boat dry.
          >
          > Dave
          >
          >
          > On Apr 11, 2013, at 10:48 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@...> wrote:
          >
          > >
          > >
          > > Thanks Dave.
          > >
          > > The Sabre Diagram calls for Butyl and the Silpruf, so that sounds all
          > > good. However the Diagram calls it "Precast" Silpruf...? No idea what how a precast silicone would look, but I've an idea now how to do tackle the re-bedding.
          > >
          > > I got the Silicone remover from Jamestown Dist., let's see how that works.
          > >
          > > The main issue (work) will really be to get the frames squeaky clean before re-installing.
          > >
          > > I am also still wondering how the inner trim develops enough pull to pull the outer flange tightly against the cabin side?
          > >
          > > Those screws that go into the inside of the outer flange don't look overly powerful.
          > >
          > > The boat is still where I bought it on the hard, and I am eager to get her up to my place (90 miles), so I am wondering if I should go for the job now or once she'll be closer to home but on a mooring.
          > > Will figure it out this weekend.
          > >
          > > Much appreciated to have this group as a resource!
          > >
          > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > 3M makes a caulk remover that works pretty well, see it here. It doesn't dissolve the caulk, rather it loosens the bond. There are other products on the market, however, this is the one that worked best for me. Ace Hardware stores carry, HD and Lowe's don't.
          > > >
          > > > When I rebuilt my ports, I used Window Weld by 3m Silpruf. It is used to bed auto windshields. At the time I was unable to find the butyl tape that RC sells. The Window Weld was wrapped around the flange that went into the hole with a bead of silpruf around the outer edge.
          > > >
          > > > There is a piece of vinyl glazing that hold the glass in the frame, it is made by CR Laurence and may be available through Amazon. The outer edge of the glazing was removed and silicone caulk sealed the joint.
          > > >
          > > > This is not a technically difficult job, just tedious removing the caulk.
          > > >
          > > > Dave
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > On Apr 10, 2013, at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > Harry,
          > > > >
          > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
          > > > >
          > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand" how that port is supposed to work...
          > > > >
          > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so what I am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
          > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
          > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required equipment for plastic work.
          > > > >
          > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
          > > > >
          > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
          > > > >
          > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@> wrote:
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones, including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as it bends easily.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts, just a remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is here on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from him here:
          > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
          > > > > >
          > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
          > > > > > at this link:
          > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
          > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I ever get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even make them tinted.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
          > > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96\7&ParentCat=380
          > > > > >
          > > > > > <http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9\67&ParentCat=380>
          > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat best.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Good luck!
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Harry
          > > > > > Analysis
          > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
          > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
          > > > > >
          > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull #116.
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the outer frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws from the inner frame?
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as far as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water gets in. PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of that will be fun.
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the Mk-1?
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
          > > > > > >
          > > > > > > Thanks.
          > > > > > >
          > > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > >
          > >
          > >
          >
        • sailor11767
          I had a port that leaked badly, but wasn t my top project. I went a year with some heavy clear plastic. Held it in place with white duct tape, the duct tape
          Message 4 of 25 , Apr 12, 2013
          • 0 Attachment
            I had a port that leaked badly, but wasn't my top project. I went a year with some heavy clear plastic. Held it in place with white duct tape, the duct tape equivalent of blue painter's tape -- sun tolerant, easy release, minimal adhesive left behind. From 100 feet, you barely saw it, and it kept the water out very well.

            Harry

            --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Thanks for the clarification, that "Pre-Cast" is actually a color...
            >
            > And yes, I think I'll tackle it if I have her closer to home.
            >
            > Thought about the plywood temporaries, wondering how I should seal them up, with work and regular life duties there is always the possibility that they have to stay in there longer than one would like.
            >
            > Thanks for your input.
            >
            > Going down to the boat this weekend, starting to get her ready.
            >
            > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@> wrote:
            > >
            > >
            > > Precast White is the name of the color. A slightly off white color that blends with the original hull color.
            > >
            > > There are about 8 or 10 screws as I recall, it is the number of screws that apply the pressure and the Silpruf is a structural glazing compound that has adhesive as well as sealing properties. Its intended use to glaze windows in commercial buildings. It is also pretty easy stuff to work with, it has some body to it so it doesn't run all over the place like Lifecaulk does, it only crawls. When you reinstall the screws start in the center and work out to the ends of the port.
            > >
            > > Even with the caulk remover, the ports will take some time to clean. I'd suggest that you wait until you get to your home port, take one port out at a time and work on them in the evening. You could make a temporary port out of plywood to keep the boat dry.
            > >
            > > Dave
            > >
            > >
            > > On Apr 11, 2013, at 10:48 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
            > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > Thanks Dave.
            > > >
            > > > The Sabre Diagram calls for Butyl and the Silpruf, so that sounds all
            > > > good. However the Diagram calls it "Precast" Silpruf...? No idea what how a precast silicone would look, but I've an idea now how to do tackle the re-bedding.
            > > >
            > > > I got the Silicone remover from Jamestown Dist., let's see how that works.
            > > >
            > > > The main issue (work) will really be to get the frames squeaky clean before re-installing.
            > > >
            > > > I am also still wondering how the inner trim develops enough pull to pull the outer flange tightly against the cabin side?
            > > >
            > > > Those screws that go into the inside of the outer flange don't look overly powerful.
            > > >
            > > > The boat is still where I bought it on the hard, and I am eager to get her up to my place (90 miles), so I am wondering if I should go for the job now or once she'll be closer to home but on a mooring.
            > > > Will figure it out this weekend.
            > > >
            > > > Much appreciated to have this group as a resource!
            > > >
            > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@> wrote:
            > > > >
            > > > > 3M makes a caulk remover that works pretty well, see it here. It doesn't dissolve the caulk, rather it loosens the bond. There are other products on the market, however, this is the one that worked best for me. Ace Hardware stores carry, HD and Lowe's don't.
            > > > >
            > > > > When I rebuilt my ports, I used Window Weld by 3m Silpruf. It is used to bed auto windshields. At the time I was unable to find the butyl tape that RC sells. The Window Weld was wrapped around the flange that went into the hole with a bead of silpruf around the outer edge.
            > > > >
            > > > > There is a piece of vinyl glazing that hold the glass in the frame, it is made by CR Laurence and may be available through Amazon. The outer edge of the glazing was removed and silicone caulk sealed the joint.
            > > > >
            > > > > This is not a technically difficult job, just tedious removing the caulk.
            > > > >
            > > > > Dave
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > > On Apr 10, 2013, at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
            > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > > Harry,
            > > > > >
            > > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
            > > > > >
            > > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand" how that port is supposed to work...
            > > > > >
            > > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so what I am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
            > > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
            > > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required equipment for plastic work.
            > > > > >
            > > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
            > > > > >
            > > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
            > > > > >
            > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@> wrote:
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones, including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as it bends easily.
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts, just a remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is here on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from him here:
            > > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
            > > > > > > at this link:
            > > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
            > > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I ever get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even make them tinted.
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
            > > > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96\7&ParentCat=380
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > <http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9\67&ParentCat=380>
            > > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat best.
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > Good luck!
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > Harry
            > > > > > > Analysis
            > > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
            > > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
            > > > > > >
            > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull #116.
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the outer frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws from the inner frame?
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as far as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water gets in. PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of that will be fun.
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the Mk-1?
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > > > Thanks.
            > > > > > > >
            > > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > > >
            > > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > >
            >
          • THOMAS JOHNSON
            Butyl  - the word evokes strong emotion in me! Considering I spent two weeks cleaning out the darn stuff while replacing sealed portlights in a Gulfstar
            Message 5 of 25 , Apr 12, 2013
            • 0 Attachment
              Butyl  - the word evokes strong emotion in me! Considering I spent two weeks cleaning out the darn stuff while replacing sealed portlights in a Gulfstar 45.   Butyl  likes to adhere to itself so taking the stuff out is a matter of a lot of elbow grease pulling and rubbing until you get a ball and then rolling that ball to collect more.  It is really messy.  WD-40 helps to take it off the window - be careful if you use accetone as that will drive the butyl into you!

              For replacement read up on alternatives - there are some good products now.  Butyl tends to sag in hot weather, etc.   Look into Sitkaflex 295 UV.  Terrific stuff.  In using the 295 it calls for a special primer and an activator.  Works perfect and is easy to use - it is a sealant and it adheres.

              My thoughts.

            • Peter Tollini
              If the plywood covers may be more than temporary, you could seal them with unthickened WEST, then mount with butyl sealant and secure with screws from the
              Message 6 of 25 , Apr 12, 2013
              • 0 Attachment
                If the plywood covers may be more than temporary, you could seal them with unthickened WEST, then mount with butyl sealant and secure with screws from the inside out through the original holes. Should be secure and easy to remove and clean up, but not pretty.
                Pete


                On Fri, Apr 12, 2013 at 1:15 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@...> wrote:
                 



                Thanks for the clarification, that "Pre-Cast" is actually a color...

                And yes, I think I'll tackle it if I have her closer to home.

                Thought about the plywood temporaries, wondering how I should seal them up, with work and regular life duties there is always the possibility that they have to stay in there longer than one would like.

                Thanks for your input.

                Going down to the boat this weekend, starting to get her ready.


                --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@...> wrote:
                >
                >
                > Precast White is the name of the color. A slightly off white color that blends with the original hull color.
                >
                > There are about 8 or 10 screws as I recall, it is the number of screws that apply the pressure and the Silpruf is a structural glazing compound that has adhesive as well as sealing properties. Its intended use to glaze windows in commercial buildings. It is also pretty easy stuff to work with, it has some body to it so it doesn't run all over the place like Lifecaulk does, it only crawls. When you reinstall the screws start in the center and work out to the ends of the port.
                >
                > Even with the caulk remover, the ports will take some time to clean. I'd suggest that you wait until you get to your home port, take one port out at a time and work on them in the evening. You could make a temporary port out of plywood to keep the boat dry.
                >
                > Dave
                >
                >
                > On Apr 11, 2013, at 10:48 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@...> wrote:
                >
                > >
                > >
                > > Thanks Dave.
                > >
                > > The Sabre Diagram calls for Butyl and the Silpruf, so that sounds all
                > > good. However the Diagram calls it "Precast" Silpruf...? No idea what how a precast silicone would look, but I've an idea now how to do tackle the re-bedding.
                > >
                > > I got the Silicone remover from Jamestown Dist., let's see how that works.
                > >
                > > The main issue (work) will really be to get the frames squeaky clean before re-installing.
                > >
                > > I am also still wondering how the inner trim develops enough pull to pull the outer flange tightly against the cabin side?
                > >
                > > Those screws that go into the inside of the outer flange don't look overly powerful.
                > >
                > > The boat is still where I bought it on the hard, and I am eager to get her up to my place (90 miles), so I am wondering if I should go for the job now or once she'll be closer to home but on a mooring.
                > > Will figure it out this weekend.
                > >
                > > Much appreciated to have this group as a resource!
                > >
                > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > > 3M makes a caulk remover that works pretty well, see it here. It doesn't dissolve the caulk, rather it loosens the bond. There are other products on the market, however, this is the one that worked best for me. Ace Hardware stores carry, HD and Lowe's don't.
                > > >
                > > > When I rebuilt my ports, I used Window Weld by 3m Silpruf. It is used to bed auto windshields. At the time I was unable to find the butyl tape that RC sells. The Window Weld was wrapped around the flange that went into the hole with a bead of silpruf around the outer edge.
                > > >
                > > > There is a piece of vinyl glazing that hold the glass in the frame, it is made by CR Laurence and may be available through Amazon. The outer edge of the glazing was removed and silicone caulk sealed the joint.
                > > >
                > > > This is not a technically difficult job, just tedious removing the caulk.
                > > >
                > > > Dave
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > On Apr 10, 2013, at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > > > Harry,
                > > > >
                > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
                > > > >
                > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand" how that port is supposed to work...
                > > > >
                > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so what I am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
                > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
                > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required equipment for plastic work.
                > > > >
                > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
                > > > >
                > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
                > > > >
                > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@> wrote:
                > > > > >
                > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
                > > > > >
                > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
                > > > > >
                > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones, including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as it bends easily.
                > > > > >
                > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts, just a remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is here on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from him here:
                > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
                > > > > >
                > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
                > > > > > at this link:
                > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
                > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I ever get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even make them tinted.
                > > > > >
                > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
                > > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96\7&ParentCat=380
                > > > > >
                > > > > > <http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9\67&ParentCat=380>
                > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat best.
                > > > > >
                > > > > > Good luck!
                > > > > >
                > > > > > Harry
                > > > > > Analysis
                > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
                > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
                > > > > >
                > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull #116.
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the outer frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws from the inner frame?
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as far as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water gets in. PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of that will be fun.
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the Mk-1?
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > Thanks.
                > > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > >
                > >
                > >
                >


              • Richard Coerse
                Butyl cleans up very easily with mineral spirits as well as Meguiar s No. 50 One Step Boat Cleaner Wax
                Message 7 of 25 , Apr 12, 2013
                • 0 Attachment
                  Butyl cleans up very easily with mineral spirits as well as Meguiar's No. 50 One Step Boat Cleaner Wax


                  THOMAS JOHNSON wrote:
                   

                  Butyl  - the word evokes strong emotion in me! Considering I spent two weeks cleaning out the darn stuff while replacing sealed portlights in a Gulfstar 45.   Butyl  likes to adhere to itself so taking the stuff out is a matter of a lot of elbow grease pulling and rubbing until you get a ball and then rolling that ball to collect more.  It is really messy.  WD-40 helps to take it off the window - be careful if you use accetone as that will drive the butyl into you!

                  For replacement read up on alternatives - there are some good products now.  Butyl tends to sag in hot weather, etc.   Look into Sitkaflex 295 UV.  Terrific stuff.  In using the 295 it calls for a special primer and an activator.  Works perfect and is easy to use - it is a sealant and it adheres.

                  My thoughts.


                • Thomas Johnson
                  Correct - mineral spirits work about as we ll as wd40. - have a large supply of rags handy Sent from my iPhone
                  Message 8 of 25 , Apr 12, 2013
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Correct - mineral spirits work about as we'll as wd40. - have a large supply of rags handy

                    Sent from my iPhone

                    On Apr 12, 2013, at 7:37 AM, Richard Coerse <rcoerse@...> wrote:

                     

                    Butyl cleans up very easily with mineral spirits as well as Meguiar's No. 50 One Step Boat Cleaner Wax


                    THOMAS JOHNSON wrote:

                     

                    Butyl  - the word evokes strong emotion in me! Considering I spent two weeks cleaning out the darn stuff while replacing sealed portlights in a Gulfstar 45.   Butyl  likes to adhere to itself so taking the stuff out is a matter of a lot of elbow grease pulling and rubbing until you get a ball and then rolling that ball to collect more.  It is really messy.  WD-40 helps to take it off the window - be careful if you use accetone as that will drive the butyl into you!

                    For replacement read up on alternatives - there are some good products now.  Butyl tends to sag in hot weather, etc.   Look into Sitkaflex 295 UV.  Terrific stuff.  In using the 295 it calls for a special primer and an activator.  Works perfect and is easy to use - it is a sealant and it adheres.

                    My thoughts.


                  • jak0570
                    Thanks Harry, spend all weekend and Monday on the boat, crawling backwards into the cockpit locker installing a new bilge blower and got the hull bottom
                    Message 9 of 25 , Apr 16, 2013
                    • 0 Attachment
                      Thanks Harry,

                      spend all weekend and Monday on the boat, crawling backwards into the cockpit locker installing a new bilge blower and got the hull bottom painted. Will have to focus on systems before I can get to the ports.

                      But am still wondering, rather than cleaning the frames from years of silicone abuse, does anybody know who made the frames? Might there be replacements available? I'd like to go with what's in there in terms of size and shape, to avoid having to modify the cabin cut-outs.

                      Are they old Lewmars?

                      Glen from Sabre has unfortunately not answered yet...

                      Thanks

                      J.

                      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > I had a port that leaked badly, but wasn't my top project. I went a year with some heavy clear plastic. Held it in place with white duct tape, the duct tape equivalent of blue painter's tape -- sun tolerant, easy release, minimal adhesive left behind. From 100 feet, you barely saw it, and it kept the water out very well.
                      >
                      > Harry
                      >
                      > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > Thanks for the clarification, that "Pre-Cast" is actually a color...
                      > >
                      > > And yes, I think I'll tackle it if I have her closer to home.
                      > >
                      > > Thought about the plywood temporaries, wondering how I should seal them up, with work and regular life duties there is always the possibility that they have to stay in there longer than one would like.
                      > >
                      > > Thanks for your input.
                      > >
                      > > Going down to the boat this weekend, starting to get her ready.
                      > >
                      > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@> wrote:
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > > Precast White is the name of the color. A slightly off white color that blends with the original hull color.
                      > > >
                      > > > There are about 8 or 10 screws as I recall, it is the number of screws that apply the pressure and the Silpruf is a structural glazing compound that has adhesive as well as sealing properties. Its intended use to glaze windows in commercial buildings. It is also pretty easy stuff to work with, it has some body to it so it doesn't run all over the place like Lifecaulk does, it only crawls. When you reinstall the screws start in the center and work out to the ends of the port.
                      > > >
                      > > > Even with the caulk remover, the ports will take some time to clean. I'd suggest that you wait until you get to your home port, take one port out at a time and work on them in the evening. You could make a temporary port out of plywood to keep the boat dry.
                      > > >
                      > > > Dave
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > > On Apr 11, 2013, at 10:48 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                      > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Thanks Dave.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > The Sabre Diagram calls for Butyl and the Silpruf, so that sounds all
                      > > > > good. However the Diagram calls it "Precast" Silpruf...? No idea what how a precast silicone would look, but I've an idea now how to do tackle the re-bedding.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > I got the Silicone remover from Jamestown Dist., let's see how that works.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > The main issue (work) will really be to get the frames squeaky clean before re-installing.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > I am also still wondering how the inner trim develops enough pull to pull the outer flange tightly against the cabin side?
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Those screws that go into the inside of the outer flange don't look overly powerful.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > The boat is still where I bought it on the hard, and I am eager to get her up to my place (90 miles), so I am wondering if I should go for the job now or once she'll be closer to home but on a mooring.
                      > > > > Will figure it out this weekend.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Much appreciated to have this group as a resource!
                      > > > >
                      > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@> wrote:
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > 3M makes a caulk remover that works pretty well, see it here. It doesn't dissolve the caulk, rather it loosens the bond. There are other products on the market, however, this is the one that worked best for me. Ace Hardware stores carry, HD and Lowe's don't.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > When I rebuilt my ports, I used Window Weld by 3m Silpruf. It is used to bed auto windshields. At the time I was unable to find the butyl tape that RC sells. The Window Weld was wrapped around the flange that went into the hole with a bead of silpruf around the outer edge.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > There is a piece of vinyl glazing that hold the glass in the frame, it is made by CR Laurence and may be available through Amazon. The outer edge of the glazing was removed and silicone caulk sealed the joint.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > This is not a technically difficult job, just tedious removing the caulk.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > Dave
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > On Apr 10, 2013, at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > Harry,
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand" how that port is supposed to work...
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so what I am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
                      > > > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
                      > > > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required equipment for plastic work.
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@> wrote:
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones, including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as it bends easily.
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts, just a remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is here on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from him here:
                      > > > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
                      > > > > > > > at this link:
                      > > > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
                      > > > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I ever get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even make them tinted.
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
                      > > > > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96\7&ParentCat=380
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > <http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9\67&ParentCat=380>
                      > > > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat best.
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > Good luck!
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > Harry
                      > > > > > > > Analysis
                      > > > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
                      > > > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                      > > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull #116.
                      > > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the outer frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws from the inner frame?
                      > > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as far as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water gets in. PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of that will be fun.
                      > > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the Mk-1?
                      > > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
                      > > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > > Thanks.
                      > > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > >
                      > >
                      >
                    • Bruce Heyman
                      . When I redid the ports on my S30 I carefully took them all out and cleaned them up removing all foreign material. I then took them to a shop that was able
                      Message 10 of 25 , Apr 16, 2013
                      • 0 Attachment
                        .
                        When I redid the ports on my S30 I carefully took them all out and cleaned them up removing all foreign material.  I then took them to a shop that was able to anodized them.  When done they looked brand new!
                        Bruce

                        Bruce Heyman
                        (949) 289-8400


                        jak0570 <jak0570@...> wrote:

                         

                        Thanks Harry,

                        spend all weekend and Monday on the boat, crawling backwards into the cockpit locker installing a new bilge blower and got the hull bottom painted. Will have to focus on systems before I can get to the ports.

                        But am still wondering, rather than cleaning the frames from years of silicone abuse, does anybody know who made the frames? Might there be replacements available? I'd like to go with what's in there in terms of size and shape, to avoid having to modify the cabin cut-outs.

                        Are they old Lewmars?

                        Glen from Sabre has unfortunately not answered yet...

                        Thanks

                        J.

                        --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > I had a port that leaked badly, but wasn't my top project. I went a year with some heavy clear plastic. Held it in place with white duct tape, the duct tape equivalent of blue painter's tape -- sun tolerant, easy release, minimal adhesive left behind. From 100 feet, you barely saw it, and it kept the water out very well.
                        >
                        > Harry
                        >
                        > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > Thanks for the clarification, that "Pre-Cast" is actually a color...
                        > >
                        > > And yes, I think I'll tackle it if I have her closer to home.
                        > >
                        > > Thought about the plywood temporaries, wondering how I should seal them up, with work and regular life duties there is always the possibility that they have to stay in there longer than one would like.
                        > >
                        > > Thanks for your input.
                        > >
                        > > Going down to the boat this weekend, starting to get her ready.
                        > >
                        > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@> wrote:
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > > Precast White is the name of the color. A slightly off white color that blends with the original hull color.
                        > > >
                        > > > There are about 8 or 10 screws as I recall, it is the number of screws that apply the pressure and the Silpruf is a structural glazing compound that has adhesive as well as sealing properties. Its intended use to glaze windows in commercial buildings. It is also pretty easy stuff to work with, it has some body to it so it doesn't run all over the place like Lifecaulk does, it only crawls. When you reinstall the screws start in the center and work out to the ends of the port.
                        > > >
                        > > > Even with the caulk remover, the ports will take some time to clean. I'd suggest that you wait until you get to your home port, take one port out at a time and work on them in the evening. You could make a temporary port out of plywood to keep the boat dry.
                        > > >
                        > > > Dave
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > > On Apr 11, 2013, at 10:48 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                        > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Thanks Dave.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > The Sabre Diagram calls for Butyl and the Silpruf, so that sounds all
                        > > > > good. However the Diagram calls it "Precast" Silpruf...? No idea what how a precast silicone would look, but I've an idea now how to do tackle the re-bedding.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > I got the Silicone remover from Jamestown Dist., let's see how that works.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > The main issue (work) will really be to get the frames squeaky clean before re-installing.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > I am also still wondering how the inner trim develops enough pull to pull the outer flange tightly against the cabin side?
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Those screws that go into the inside of the outer flange don't look overly powerful.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > The boat is still where I bought it on the hard, and I am eager to get her up to my place (90 miles), so I am wondering if I should go for the job now or once she'll be closer to home but on a mooring.
                        > > > > Will figure it out this weekend.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Much appreciated to have this group as a resource!
                        > > > >
                        > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@> wrote:
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > 3M makes a caulk remover that works pretty well, see it here. It doesn't dissolve the caulk, rather it loosens the bond. There are other products on the market, however, this is the one that worked best for me. Ace Hardware stores carry, HD and Lowe's don't.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > When I rebuilt my ports, I used Window Weld by 3m Silpruf. It is used to bed auto windshields. At the time I was unable to find the butyl tape that RC sells. The Window Weld was wrapped around the flange that went into the hole with a bead of silpruf around the outer edge.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > There is a piece of vinyl glazing that hold the glass in the frame, it is made by CR Laurence and may be available through Amazon. The outer edge of the glazing was removed and silicone caulk sealed the joint.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > This is not a technically difficult job, just tedious removing the caulk.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > Dave
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > On Apr 10, 2013, at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > Harry,
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand" how that port is supposed to work...
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so what I am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
                        > > > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
                        > > > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required equipment for plastic work.
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@> wrote:
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones, including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as it bends easily.
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts, just a remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is here on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from him here:
                        > > > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
                        > > > > > > > at this link:
                        > > > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
                        > > > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I ever get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even make them tinted.
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
                        > > > > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96\7&ParentCat=380
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > <http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9\67&ParentCat=380>
                        > > > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat best.
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > Good luck!
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > Harry
                        > > > > > > > Analysis
                        > > > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
                        > > > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull #116.
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the outer frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws from the inner frame?
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as far as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water gets in. PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of that will be fun.
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the Mk-1?
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > Thanks.
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > >
                        > >
                        >

                      • DAVID LOCHNER
                        You might try looking at CR Laurence s website. The supply all Kinds of window glazing products. Sent from my iPad
                        Message 11 of 25 , Apr 17, 2013
                        • 0 Attachment
                          You might try looking at CR Laurence's website. The supply all
                           Kinds of window glazing products. 

                          Sent from my iPad

                          On Apr 17, 2013, at 12:26 AM, Bruce Heyman <bruceheyman@...> wrote:

                           

                          .
                          When I redid the ports on my S30 I carefully took them all out and cleaned them up removing all foreign material.  I then took them to a shop that was able to anodized them.  When done they looked brand new!
                          Bruce

                          Bruce Heyman
                          (949) 289-8400


                          jak0570 <jak0570@...> wrote:

                           

                          Thanks Harry,

                          spend all weekend and Monday on the boat, crawling backwards into the cockpit locker installing a new bilge blower and got the hull bottom painted. Will have to focus on systems before I can get to the ports.

                          But am still wondering, rather than cleaning the frames from years of silicone abuse, does anybody know who made the frames? Might there be replacements available? I'd like to go with what's in there in terms of size and shape, to avoid having to modify the cabin cut-outs.

                          Are they old Lewmars?

                          Glen from Sabre has unfortunately not answered yet...

                          Thanks

                          J.

                          --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > I had a port that leaked badly, but wasn't my top project. I went a year with some heavy clear plastic. Held it in place with white duct tape, the duct tape equivalent of blue painter's tape -- sun tolerant, easy release, minimal adhesive left behind. From 100 feet, you barely saw it, and it kept the water out very well.
                          >
                          > Harry
                          >
                          > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > Thanks for the clarification, that "Pre-Cast" is actually a color...
                          > >
                          > > And yes, I think I'll tackle it if I have her closer to home.
                          > >
                          > > Thought about the plywood temporaries, wondering how I should seal them up, with work and regular life duties there is always the possibility that they have to stay in there longer than one would like.
                          > >
                          > > Thanks for your input.
                          > >
                          > > Going down to the boat this weekend, starting to get her ready.
                          > >
                          > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > >
                          > > > Precast White is the name of the color. A slightly off white color that blends with the original hull color.
                          > > >
                          > > > There are about 8 or 10 screws as I recall, it is the number of screws that apply the pressure and the Silpruf is a structural glazing compound that has adhesive as well as sealing properties. Its intended use to glaze windows in commercial buildings. It is also pretty easy stuff to work with, it has some body to it so it doesn't run all over the place like Lifecaulk does, it only crawls. When you reinstall the screws start in the center and work out to the ends of the port.
                          > > >
                          > > > Even with the caulk remover, the ports will take some time to clean. I'd suggest that you wait until you get to your home port, take one port out at a time and work on them in the evening. You could make a temporary port out of plywood to keep the boat dry.
                          > > >
                          > > > Dave
                          > > >
                          > > >
                          > > > On Apr 11, 2013, at 10:48 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Thanks Dave.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > The Sabre Diagram calls for Butyl and the Silpruf, so that sounds all
                          > > > > good. However the Diagram calls it "Precast" Silpruf...? No idea what how a precast silicone would look, but I've an idea now how to do tackle the re-bedding.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > I got the Silicone remover from Jamestown Dist., let's see how that works.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > The main issue (work) will really be to get the frames squeaky clean before re-installing.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > I am also still wondering how the inner trim develops enough pull to pull the outer flange tightly against the cabin side?
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Those screws that go into the inside of the outer flange don't look overly powerful.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > The boat is still where I bought it on the hard, and I am eager to get her up to my place (90 miles), so I am wondering if I should go for the job now or once she'll be closer to home but on a mooring.
                          > > > > Will figure it out this weekend.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Much appreciated to have this group as a resource!
                          > > > >
                          > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@> wrote:
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > 3M makes a caulk remover that works pretty well, see it here. It doesn't dissolve the caulk, rather it loosens the bond. There are other products on the market, however, this is the one that worked best for me. Ace Hardware stores carry, HD and Lowe's don't.
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > When I rebuilt my ports, I used Window Weld by 3m Silpruf. It is used to bed auto windshields. At the time I was unable to find the butyl tape that RC sells. The Window Weld was wrapped around the flange that went into the hole with a bead of silpruf around the outer edge.
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > There is a piece of vinyl glazing that hold the glass in the frame, it is made by CR Laurence and may be available through Amazon. The outer edge of the glazing was removed and silicone caulk sealed the joint.
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > This is not a technically difficult job, just tedious removing the caulk.
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > Dave
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > On Apr 10, 2013, at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > Harry,
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand" how that port is supposed to work...
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so what I am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
                          > > > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
                          > > > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required equipment for plastic work.
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@> wrote:
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones, including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as it bends easily.
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts, just a remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is here on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from him here:
                          > > > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
                          > > > > > > > at this link:
                          > > > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
                          > > > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I ever get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even make them tinted.
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
                          > > > > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96\7&ParentCat=380
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > <http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9\67&ParentCat=380>
                          > > > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat best.
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > Good luck!
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > Harry
                          > > > > > > > Analysis
                          > > > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
                          > > > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull #116.
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the outer frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws from the inner frame?
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as far as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water gets in. PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of that will be fun.
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the Mk-1?
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > Thanks.
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > >
                          > >
                          >

                        • Peter Tollini
                          My guess is that Bomar was OEM. http://www.pompanette.com/pomp.nsf/0/028A682AB784A5178525778300572DFA?Open I have no idea as to cost. They may be standard
                          Message 12 of 25 , Apr 17, 2013
                          • 0 Attachment
                            My guess is that Bomar was OEM.   


                            I have no idea as to cost. They may be standard shapes.
                            Pete


                            On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 11:02 PM, jak0570 <jak0570@...> wrote:
                             

                            Thanks Harry,

                            spend all weekend and Monday on the boat, crawling backwards into the cockpit locker installing a new bilge blower and got the hull bottom painted. Will have to focus on systems before I can get to the ports.

                            But am still wondering, rather than cleaning the frames from years of silicone abuse, does anybody know who made the frames? Might there be replacements available? I'd like to go with what's in there in terms of size and shape, to avoid having to modify the cabin cut-outs.

                            Are they old Lewmars?

                            Glen from Sabre has unfortunately not answered yet...

                            Thanks

                            J.



                            --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > I had a port that leaked badly, but wasn't my top project. I went a year with some heavy clear plastic. Held it in place with white duct tape, the duct tape equivalent of blue painter's tape -- sun tolerant, easy release, minimal adhesive left behind. From 100 feet, you barely saw it, and it kept the water out very well.
                            >
                            > Harry
                            >
                            > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > Thanks for the clarification, that "Pre-Cast" is actually a color...
                            > >
                            > > And yes, I think I'll tackle it if I have her closer to home.
                            > >
                            > > Thought about the plywood temporaries, wondering how I should seal them up, with work and regular life duties there is always the possibility that they have to stay in there longer than one would like.
                            > >
                            > > Thanks for your input.
                            > >
                            > > Going down to the boat this weekend, starting to get her ready.
                            > >
                            > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@> wrote:
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > > Precast White is the name of the color. A slightly off white color that blends with the original hull color.
                            > > >
                            > > > There are about 8 or 10 screws as I recall, it is the number of screws that apply the pressure and the Silpruf is a structural glazing compound that has adhesive as well as sealing properties. Its intended use to glaze windows in commercial buildings. It is also pretty easy stuff to work with, it has some body to it so it doesn't run all over the place like Lifecaulk does, it only crawls. When you reinstall the screws start in the center and work out to the ends of the port.
                            > > >
                            > > > Even with the caulk remover, the ports will take some time to clean. I'd suggest that you wait until you get to your home port, take one port out at a time and work on them in the evening. You could make a temporary port out of plywood to keep the boat dry.
                            > > >
                            > > > Dave
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > > On Apr 11, 2013, at 10:48 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                            > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Thanks Dave.
                            > > > >
                            > > > > The Sabre Diagram calls for Butyl and the Silpruf, so that sounds all
                            > > > > good. However the Diagram calls it "Precast" Silpruf...? No idea what how a precast silicone would look, but I've an idea now how to do tackle the re-bedding.
                            > > > >
                            > > > > I got the Silicone remover from Jamestown Dist., let's see how that works.
                            > > > >
                            > > > > The main issue (work) will really be to get the frames squeaky clean before re-installing.
                            > > > >
                            > > > > I am also still wondering how the inner trim develops enough pull to pull the outer flange tightly against the cabin side?
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Those screws that go into the inside of the outer flange don't look overly powerful.
                            > > > >
                            > > > > The boat is still where I bought it on the hard, and I am eager to get her up to my place (90 miles), so I am wondering if I should go for the job now or once she'll be closer to home but on a mooring.
                            > > > > Will figure it out this weekend.
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Much appreciated to have this group as a resource!
                            > > > >
                            > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, DAVID LOCHNER <davelochner@> wrote:
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > 3M makes a caulk remover that works pretty well, see it here. It doesn't dissolve the caulk, rather it loosens the bond. There are other products on the market, however, this is the one that worked best for me. Ace Hardware stores carry, HD and Lowe's don't.
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > When I rebuilt my ports, I used Window Weld by 3m Silpruf. It is used to bed auto windshields. At the time I was unable to find the butyl tape that RC sells. The Window Weld was wrapped around the flange that went into the hole with a bead of silpruf around the outer edge.
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > There is a piece of vinyl glazing that hold the glass in the frame, it is made by CR Laurence and may be available through Amazon. The outer edge of the glazing was removed and silicone caulk sealed the joint.
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > This is not a technically difficult job, just tedious removing the caulk.
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > Dave
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > On Apr 10, 2013, at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > Harry,
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand" how that port is supposed to work...
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so what I am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
                            > > > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
                            > > > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required equipment for plastic work.
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@> wrote:
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones, including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as it bends easily.
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts, just a remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is here on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from him here:
                            > > > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
                            > > > > > > > at this link:
                            > > > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
                            > > > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I ever get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even make them tinted.
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
                            > > > > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96\7&ParentCat=380
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > <http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9\67&ParentCat=380>
                            > > > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat best.
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > Good luck!
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > Harry
                            > > > > > > > Analysis
                            > > > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
                            > > > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull #116.
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the outer frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws from the inner frame?
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as far as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water gets in. PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of that will be fun.
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the Mk-1?
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > Thanks.
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > >
                            > >
                            >


                          • mattcragon
                            I currently have all of my portholes out. The glass shop is making new tempered glass as I write this. Just wondering about your bedding process. Did you use
                            Message 13 of 25 , Jul 3 5:28 PM
                            • 0 Attachment
                              I currently have all of my portholes out. The glass shop is making new tempered glass as I write this.

                              Just wondering about your bedding process. Did you use silicon both inside and outside of the grey chanel glazing that goes around the window, like the Catalina instructions indicate?

                              I am guessing you used butyl tape for the frame to gelcoat junction.

                              I see you went with polishing the frames. I think mine are too pitted for that, so I am priming and painting them on the visible surfaces.

                              Lastly were you successful in stopping the leaks?

                              Matt



                              --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > I'm going through rebedding portlights on my S30 and I have used Harry's
                              > advice and used butil tape. You just buld up the thikness you need with
                              > layers of tape. Last weekend I have re-bedded the first portlight. I don't
                              > have detailed pictires except the ones below.
                              > I have also sealed balsa core with west system while I was at it.
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > > **
                              > >
                              > >
                              > >
                              > >
                              > > Harry,
                              > >
                              > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
                              > >
                              > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand" how
                              > > that port is supposed to work...
                              > >
                              > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so what I
                              > > am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
                              > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
                              > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required
                              > > equipment for plastic work.
                              > >
                              > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and
                              > > thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
                              > >
                              > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
                              > >
                              > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@>
                              > > wrote:
                              > > >
                              > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
                              > > >
                              > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
                              > > >
                              > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones,
                              > > including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be
                              > > very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as it
                              > > bends easily.
                              > > >
                              > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts, just a
                              > > remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for
                              > > bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is here
                              > > on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from him
                              > > here:
                              > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
                              > > >
                              > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
                              > > > at this link:
                              > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
                              > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I ever
                              > > get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with
                              > > "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even
                              > > make them tinted.
                              > > >
                              > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
                              > > >
                              > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96
                              > > \7&ParentCat=380
                              > > >
                              > > > <
                              > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9
                              > > \67&ParentCat=380>
                              > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat
                              > > best.
                              > > >
                              > > > Good luck!
                              > > >
                              > > > Harry
                              > > > Analysis
                              > > > '79 S-34 #063
                              > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
                              > > >
                              > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                              > > > >
                              > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull
                              > > #116.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main
                              > > cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for
                              > > example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the outer
                              > > frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws from
                              > > the inner frame?
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as far
                              > > as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water gets in.
                              > > PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of that
                              > > will be fun.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the
                              > > Mk-1?
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Thanks.
                              > > > >
                              > > >
                              > >
                              > >
                              > >
                              >
                            • Yuriy Matsegora
                              Hi Matt, I didn t use any sealant on the gray glazing. 3/16 glass lens I installed are fit tight in the channel with the glazing. Yes, I used butyl tape to
                              Message 14 of 25 , Jul 3 7:22 PM
                              • 0 Attachment

                                Hi Matt,
                                I didn't use any sealant on the gray glazing. 3/16" glass lens I installed are fit tight in the channel with the glazing. Yes, I used butyl tape to seal the port to the frame opening.
                                My problem with the ports was that the PO had some one to replace the lenses and he installed 1/8" glass with 3/16" glazing (I guess the one was there before) and sealed the gap with silicone. It was leaking between lens and the glazing.
                                 
                                 I have not finished all the ports yet, but the ones I did do not leak so far.
                                On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 8:28 PM, mattcragon <mattcragon@...> wrote:
                                 


                                I currently have all of my portholes out. The glass shop is making new tempered glass as I write this.

                                Just wondering about your bedding process. Did you use silicon both inside and outside of the grey chanel glazing that goes around the window, like the Catalina instructions indicate?

                                I am guessing you used butyl tape for the frame to gelcoat junction.

                                I see you went with polishing the frames. I think mine are too pitted for that, so I am priming and painting them on the visible surfaces.

                                Lastly were you successful in stopping the leaks?

                                Matt

                                --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > I'm going through rebedding portlights on my S30 and I have used Harry's
                                > advice and used butil tape. You just buld up the thikness you need with
                                > layers of tape. Last weekend I have re-bedded the first portlight. I don't
                                > have detailed pictires except the ones below.
                                > I have also sealed balsa core with west system while I was at it.
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                > On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > > **
                                > >
                                > >
                                > >
                                > >
                                > > Harry,
                                > >
                                > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
                                > >
                                > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand" how
                                > > that port is supposed to work...
                                > >
                                > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so what I
                                > > am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
                                > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
                                > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required
                                > > equipment for plastic work.
                                > >
                                > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and
                                > > thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
                                > >
                                > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
                                > >
                                > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@>
                                > > wrote:
                                > > >
                                > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
                                > > >
                                > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
                                > > >
                                > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones,
                                > > including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be
                                > > very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as it
                                > > bends easily.
                                > > >
                                > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts, just a
                                > > remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for
                                > > bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is here
                                > > on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from him
                                > > here:
                                > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
                                > > >
                                > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
                                > > > at this link:
                                > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
                                > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I ever
                                > > get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with
                                > > "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even
                                > > make them tinted.
                                > > >
                                > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
                                > > >
                                > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96
                                > > \7&ParentCat=380
                                > > >
                                > > > <
                                > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9
                                > > \67&ParentCat=380>
                                > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat
                                > > best.
                                > > >
                                > > > Good luck!
                                > > >
                                > > > Harry
                                > > > Analysis
                                > > > '79 S-34 #063
                                > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
                                > > >
                                > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                                > > > >
                                > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull
                                > > #116.
                                > > > >
                                > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main
                                > > cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for
                                > > example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the outer
                                > > frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws from
                                > > the inner frame?
                                > > > >
                                > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as far
                                > > as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water gets in.
                                > > PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of that
                                > > will be fun.
                                > > > >
                                > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the
                                > > Mk-1?
                                > > > >
                                > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
                                > > > >
                                > > > > Thanks.
                                > > > >
                                > > >
                                > >
                                > >
                                > >
                                >


                              • mattcragon
                                Thanks for replying so quickly, Yuriy, The old glass was 1/8 inch, so that is what I asked the glass shop to make. It does seem when doing a dry fit, with the
                                Message 15 of 25 , Jul 4 8:04 AM
                                • 0 Attachment
                                  Thanks for replying so quickly, Yuriy,

                                  The old glass was 1/8 inch, so that is what I asked the glass shop to make. It does seem when doing a dry fit, with the old glass, there is way more slop than is needed. I didn't think I could get away without the silicone, looking at it. So to your point I probably have the wrong glazing for the glass I ordered.

                                  This could have been pretty bad. I have relied on the Catalina kit to obtain the glazing. Do know where I could get the proper glazing for the job with 1/8th inch windows? Conversely I could bite the bullet and have the glass shop make me 3/16 glass. $200 down the toilet and more lost time with the change in the glass, but it might be beefier, and that would be better.

                                  Thanks again,

                                  Matt



                                  --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > Hi Matt,
                                  > I didn't use any sealant on the gray glazing. 3/16" glass lens I installed
                                  > are fit tight in the channel with the glazing. Yes, I used butyl tape to
                                  > seal the port to the frame opening.
                                  > My problem with the ports was that the PO had some one to replace the
                                  > lenses and he installed 1/8" glass with 3/16" glazing (I guess the one was
                                  > there before) and sealed the gap with silicone. It was leaking between lens
                                  > and the glazing.
                                  >
                                  > I have not finished all the ports yet, but the ones I did do not leak so
                                  > far.
                                  > On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 8:28 PM, mattcragon <mattcragon@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > > **
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > I currently have all of my portholes out. The glass shop is making new
                                  > > tempered glass as I write this.
                                  > >
                                  > > Just wondering about your bedding process. Did you use silicon both inside
                                  > > and outside of the grey chanel glazing that goes around the window, like
                                  > > the Catalina instructions indicate?
                                  > >
                                  > > I am guessing you used butyl tape for the frame to gelcoat junction.
                                  > >
                                  > > I see you went with polishing the frames. I think mine are too pitted for
                                  > > that, so I am priming and painting them on the visible surfaces.
                                  > >
                                  > > Lastly were you successful in stopping the leaks?
                                  > >
                                  > > Matt
                                  > >
                                  > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@>
                                  > > wrote:
                                  > > >
                                  > > > I'm going through rebedding portlights on my S30 and I have used Harry's
                                  > > > advice and used butil tape. You just buld up the thikness you need with
                                  > > > layers of tape. Last weekend I have re-bedded the first portlight. I
                                  > > don't
                                  > > > have detailed pictires except the ones below.
                                  > > > I have also sealed balsa core with west system while I was at it.
                                  > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > > > On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                                  > > >
                                  > > > > **
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Harry,
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand"
                                  > > how
                                  > > > > that port is supposed to work...
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so
                                  > > what I
                                  > > > > am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
                                  > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
                                  > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required
                                  > > > > equipment for plastic work.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and
                                  > > > > thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@>
                                  > > > > wrote:
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones,
                                  > > > > including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be
                                  > > > > very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as
                                  > > it
                                  > > > > bends easily.
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts,
                                  > > just a
                                  > > > > remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for
                                  > > > > bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is
                                  > > here
                                  > > > > on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from
                                  > > him
                                  > > > > here:
                                  > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
                                  > > > > > at this link:
                                  > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
                                  > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I
                                  > > ever
                                  > > > > get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with
                                  > > > > "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even
                                  > > > > make them tinted.
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96
                                  > > > > \7&ParentCat=380
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > <
                                  > > > >
                                  > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9
                                  > > > > \67&ParentCat=380>
                                  > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat
                                  > > > > best.
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > Good luck!
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > Harry
                                  > > > > > Analysis
                                  > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
                                  > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull
                                  > > > > #116.
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main
                                  > > > > cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for
                                  > > > > example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the
                                  > > outer
                                  > > > > frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws
                                  > > from
                                  > > > > the inner frame?
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as
                                  > > far
                                  > > > > as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water
                                  > > gets in.
                                  > > > > PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of
                                  > > that
                                  > > > > will be fun.
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the
                                  > > > > Mk-1?
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > Thanks.
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  >
                                • Dave Lochner
                                  Matt, CR Laurence sells the glazing. The Model number is D753C and it is available available on Amazon. After the glass is in and the frame assembled, Sabre
                                  Message 16 of 25 , Jul 4 8:15 AM
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    Matt,

                                    CR Laurence sells the glazing.  The Model number is D753C and it is available available on Amazon.

                                    After the glass is in and the frame assembled, Sabre trimmed the external flange from the glazing and used a silicone caulk to seal the opening.


                                    Dave




                                    On Jul 4, 2013, at 11:04 AM, mattcragon wrote:

                                     



                                    Thanks for replying so quickly, Yuriy,

                                    The old glass was 1/8 inch, so that is what I asked the glass shop to make. It does seem when doing a dry fit, with the old glass, there is way more slop than is needed. I didn't think I could get away without the silicone, looking at it. So to your point I probably have the wrong glazing for the glass I ordered.

                                    This could have been pretty bad. I have relied on the Catalina kit to obtain the glazing. Do know where I could get the proper glazing for the job with 1/8th inch windows? Conversely I could bite the bullet and have the glass shop make me 3/16 glass. $200 down the toilet and more lost time with the change in the glass, but it might be beefier, and that would be better.

                                    Thanks again,

                                    Matt

                                    --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > Hi Matt,
                                    > I didn't use any sealant on the gray glazing. 3/16" glass lens I installed
                                    > are fit tight in the channel with the glazing. Yes, I used butyl tape to
                                    > seal the port to the frame opening.
                                    > My problem with the ports was that the PO had some one to replace the
                                    > lenses and he installed 1/8" glass with 3/16" glazing (I guess the one was
                                    > there before) and sealed the gap with silicone. It was leaking between lens
                                    > and the glazing.
                                    >
                                    > I have not finished all the ports yet, but the ones I did do not leak so
                                    > far.
                                    > On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 8:28 PM, mattcragon <mattcragon@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > > **
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > I currently have all of my portholes out. The glass shop is making new
                                    > > tempered glass as I write this.
                                    > >
                                    > > Just wondering about your bedding process. Did you use silicon both inside
                                    > > and outside of the grey chanel glazing that goes around the window, like
                                    > > the Catalina instructions indicate?
                                    > >
                                    > > I am guessing you used butyl tape for the frame to gelcoat junction.
                                    > >
                                    > > I see you went with polishing the frames. I think mine are too pitted for
                                    > > that, so I am priming and painting them on the visible surfaces.
                                    > >
                                    > > Lastly were you successful in stopping the leaks?
                                    > >
                                    > > Matt
                                    > >
                                    > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@>
                                    > > wrote:
                                    > > >
                                    > > > I'm going through rebedding portlights on my S30 and I have used Harry's
                                    > > > advice and used butil tape. You just buld up the thikness you need with
                                    > > > layers of tape. Last weekend I have re-bedded the first portlight. I
                                    > > don't
                                    > > > have detailed pictires except the ones below.
                                    > > > I have also sealed balsa core with west system while I was at it.
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > > On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                                    > > >
                                    > > > > **
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > Harry,
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand"
                                    > > how
                                    > > > > that port is supposed to work...
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so
                                    > > what I
                                    > > > > am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
                                    > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
                                    > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required
                                    > > > > equipment for plastic work.
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and
                                    > > > > thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@>
                                    > > > > wrote:
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones,
                                    > > > > including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be
                                    > > > > very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as
                                    > > it
                                    > > > > bends easily.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts,
                                    > > just a
                                    > > > > remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for
                                    > > > > bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is
                                    > > here
                                    > > > > on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from
                                    > > him
                                    > > > > here:
                                    > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
                                    > > > > > at this link:
                                    > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
                                    > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I
                                    > > ever
                                    > > > > get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with
                                    > > > > "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even
                                    > > > > make them tinted.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96
                                    > > > > \7&ParentCat=380
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > <
                                    > > > >
                                    > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9
                                    > > > > \67&ParentCat=380>
                                    > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat
                                    > > > > best.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Good luck!
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Harry
                                    > > > > > Analysis
                                    > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
                                    > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull
                                    > > > > #116.
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main
                                    > > > > cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for
                                    > > > > example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the
                                    > > outer
                                    > > > > frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws
                                    > > from
                                    > > > > the inner frame?
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as
                                    > > far
                                    > > > > as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water
                                    > > gets in.
                                    > > > > PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of
                                    > > that
                                    > > > > will be fun.
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the
                                    > > > > Mk-1?
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > > > Thanks.
                                    > > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    >


                                  • mattcragon
                                    Thanks, Dave, Good info. I am sure this will fit the glass much better, but now I am wondering about the metal opening. From CR Laurence specs: it requires a
                                    Message 17 of 25 , Jul 4 9:54 AM
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      Thanks, Dave,

                                      Good info. I am sure this will fit the glass much better, but now I am wondering about the metal opening.

                                      From CR Laurence specs: "it requires a metal opening of 9/32" (7.1 mm)".

                                      I am measuring 8.5 mm for my opening. Perhaps there is enough accommodation with the ribs and the silicon to make up that difference. My boat is a Sabre 34 and it might have a bit different frame.

                                      Great info on Sabre's technique. I will replicate it when I do my windows.

                                      Thanks again,

                                      Matt




                                      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Dave Lochner <davelochner@...> wrote:
                                      >
                                      > Matt,
                                      >
                                      > CR Laurence sells the glazing. The Model number is D753C and it is available available on Amazon.
                                      >
                                      > After the glass is in and the frame assembled, Sabre trimmed the external flange from the glazing and used a silicone caulk to seal the opening.
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > Dave
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > On Jul 4, 2013, at 11:04 AM, mattcragon wrote:
                                      >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > Thanks for replying so quickly, Yuriy,
                                      > >
                                      > > The old glass was 1/8 inch, so that is what I asked the glass shop to make. It does seem when doing a dry fit, with the old glass, there is way more slop than is needed. I didn't think I could get away without the silicone, looking at it. So to your point I probably have the wrong glazing for the glass I ordered.
                                      > >
                                      > > This could have been pretty bad. I have relied on the Catalina kit to obtain the glazing. Do know where I could get the proper glazing for the job with 1/8th inch windows? Conversely I could bite the bullet and have the glass shop make me 3/16 glass. $200 down the toilet and more lost time with the change in the glass, but it might be beefier, and that would be better.
                                      > >
                                      > > Thanks again,
                                      > >
                                      > > Matt
                                      > >
                                      > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@> wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      > > > Hi Matt,
                                      > > > I didn't use any sealant on the gray glazing. 3/16" glass lens I installed
                                      > > > are fit tight in the channel with the glazing. Yes, I used butyl tape to
                                      > > > seal the port to the frame opening.
                                      > > > My problem with the ports was that the PO had some one to replace the
                                      > > > lenses and he installed 1/8" glass with 3/16" glazing (I guess the one was
                                      > > > there before) and sealed the gap with silicone. It was leaking between lens
                                      > > > and the glazing.
                                      > > >
                                      > > > I have not finished all the ports yet, but the ones I did do not leak so
                                      > > > far.
                                      > > > On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 8:28 PM, mattcragon <mattcragon@> wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      > > > > **
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > I currently have all of my portholes out. The glass shop is making new
                                      > > > > tempered glass as I write this.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > Just wondering about your bedding process. Did you use silicon both inside
                                      > > > > and outside of the grey chanel glazing that goes around the window, like
                                      > > > > the Catalina instructions indicate?
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > I am guessing you used butyl tape for the frame to gelcoat junction.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > I see you went with polishing the frames. I think mine are too pitted for
                                      > > > > that, so I am priming and painting them on the visible surfaces.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > Lastly were you successful in stopping the leaks?
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > Matt
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@>
                                      > > > > wrote:
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > I'm going through rebedding portlights on my S30 and I have used Harry's
                                      > > > > > advice and used butil tape. You just buld up the thikness you need with
                                      > > > > > layers of tape. Last weekend I have re-bedded the first portlight. I
                                      > > > > don't
                                      > > > > > have detailed pictires except the ones below.
                                      > > > > > I have also sealed balsa core with west system while I was at it.
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > **
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > Harry,
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand"
                                      > > > > how
                                      > > > > > > that port is supposed to work...
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so
                                      > > > > what I
                                      > > > > > > am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
                                      > > > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
                                      > > > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required
                                      > > > > > > equipment for plastic work.
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and
                                      > > > > > > thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@>
                                      > > > > > > wrote:
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones,
                                      > > > > > > including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be
                                      > > > > > > very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as
                                      > > > > it
                                      > > > > > > bends easily.
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts,
                                      > > > > just a
                                      > > > > > > remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for
                                      > > > > > > bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is
                                      > > > > here
                                      > > > > > > on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from
                                      > > > > him
                                      > > > > > > here:
                                      > > > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
                                      > > > > > > > at this link:
                                      > > > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
                                      > > > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I
                                      > > > > ever
                                      > > > > > > get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with
                                      > > > > > > "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even
                                      > > > > > > make them tinted.
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96
                                      > > > > > > \7&ParentCat=380
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > <
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9
                                      > > > > > > \67&ParentCat=380>
                                      > > > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat
                                      > > > > > > best.
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > Good luck!
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > Harry
                                      > > > > > > > Analysis
                                      > > > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
                                      > > > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                                      > > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull
                                      > > > > > > #116.
                                      > > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main
                                      > > > > > > cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for
                                      > > > > > > example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the
                                      > > > > outer
                                      > > > > > > frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws
                                      > > > > from
                                      > > > > > > the inner frame?
                                      > > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as
                                      > > > > far
                                      > > > > > > as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water
                                      > > > > gets in.
                                      > > > > > > PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of
                                      > > > > that
                                      > > > > > > will be fun.
                                      > > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the
                                      > > > > > > Mk-1?
                                      > > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
                                      > > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > > Thanks.
                                      > > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      >
                                    • Yuriy Matsegora
                                      This is the glazing I used with 3/16 glass and it fit snug in the frame. I didn t cut external flange as it sealed the edge well.
                                      Message 18 of 25 , Jul 4 8:59 PM
                                      • 0 Attachment
                                        This is the glazing I used with 3/16 glass and it fit snug in the frame. I didn't cut external flange as it sealed the edge well.
                                         
                                        On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 12:54 PM, mattcragon <mattcragon@...> wrote:
                                         



                                        Thanks, Dave,

                                        Good info. I am sure this will fit the glass much better, but now I am wondering about the metal opening.

                                        From CR Laurence specs: "it requires a metal opening of 9/32" (7.1 mm)".

                                        I am measuring 8.5 mm for my opening. Perhaps there is enough accommodation with the ribs and the silicon to make up that difference. My boat is a Sabre 34 and it might have a bit different frame.

                                        Great info on Sabre's technique. I will replicate it when I do my windows.

                                        Thanks again,

                                        Matt

                                        --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Dave Lochner <davelochner@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        > Matt,
                                        >
                                        > CR Laurence sells the glazing. The Model number is D753C and it is available available on Amazon.
                                        >
                                        > After the glass is in and the frame assembled, Sabre trimmed the external flange from the glazing and used a silicone caulk to seal the opening.
                                        >
                                        >
                                        > Dave
                                        >
                                        >
                                        >
                                        >
                                        > On Jul 4, 2013, at 11:04 AM, mattcragon wrote:
                                        >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > Thanks for replying so quickly, Yuriy,
                                        > >
                                        > > The old glass was 1/8 inch, so that is what I asked the glass shop to make. It does seem when doing a dry fit, with the old glass, there is way more slop than is needed. I didn't think I could get away without the silicone, looking at it. So to your point I probably have the wrong glazing for the glass I ordered.
                                        > >
                                        > > This could have been pretty bad. I have relied on the Catalina kit to obtain the glazing. Do know where I could get the proper glazing for the job with 1/8th inch windows? Conversely I could bite the bullet and have the glass shop make me 3/16 glass. $200 down the toilet and more lost time with the change in the glass, but it might be beefier, and that would be better.
                                        > >
                                        > > Thanks again,
                                        > >
                                        > > Matt
                                        > >
                                        > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@> wrote:
                                        > > >
                                        > > > Hi Matt,
                                        > > > I didn't use any sealant on the gray glazing. 3/16" glass lens I installed
                                        > > > are fit tight in the channel with the glazing. Yes, I used butyl tape to
                                        > > > seal the port to the frame opening.
                                        > > > My problem with the ports was that the PO had some one to replace the
                                        > > > lenses and he installed 1/8" glass with 3/16" glazing (I guess the one was
                                        > > > there before) and sealed the gap with silicone. It was leaking between lens
                                        > > > and the glazing.
                                        > > >
                                        > > > I have not finished all the ports yet, but the ones I did do not leak so
                                        > > > far.
                                        > > > On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 8:28 PM, mattcragon <mattcragon@> wrote:
                                        > > >
                                        > > > > **
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > I currently have all of my portholes out. The glass shop is making new
                                        > > > > tempered glass as I write this.
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > Just wondering about your bedding process. Did you use silicon both inside
                                        > > > > and outside of the grey chanel glazing that goes around the window, like
                                        > > > > the Catalina instructions indicate?
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > I am guessing you used butyl tape for the frame to gelcoat junction.
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > I see you went with polishing the frames. I think mine are too pitted for
                                        > > > > that, so I am priming and painting them on the visible surfaces.
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > Lastly were you successful in stopping the leaks?
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > Matt
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@>
                                        > > > > wrote:
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > I'm going through rebedding portlights on my S30 and I have used Harry's
                                        > > > > > advice and used butil tape. You just buld up the thikness you need with
                                        > > > > > layers of tape. Last weekend I have re-bedded the first portlight. I
                                        > > > > don't
                                        > > > > > have detailed pictires except the ones below.
                                        > > > > > I have also sealed balsa core with west system while I was at it.
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > **
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > Harry,
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now "understand"
                                        > > > > how
                                        > > > > > > that port is supposed to work...
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of silicone, so
                                        > > > > what I
                                        > > > > > > am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top reinstall.
                                        > > > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/- $200.
                                        > > > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the required
                                        > > > > > > equipment for plastic work.
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different widths and
                                        > > > > > > thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@>
                                        > > > > > > wrote:
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the same ones,
                                        > > > > > > including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some tips. Be
                                        > > > > > > very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim ring, as
                                        > > > > it
                                        > > > > > > bends easily.
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new parts,
                                        > > > > just a
                                        > > > > > > remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used butyl for
                                        > > > > > > bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail (he is
                                        > > > > here
                                        > > > > > > on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order it from
                                        > > > > him
                                        > > > > > > here:
                                        > > > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a while back
                                        > > > > > > > at this link:
                                        > > > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
                                        > > > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150 delivered. If I
                                        > > > > ever
                                        > > > > > > get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go back with
                                        > > > > > > "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They can even
                                        > > > > > > make them tinted.
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96
                                        > > > > > > \7&ParentCat=380
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > <
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9
                                        > > > > > > \67&ParentCat=380>
                                        > > > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits your boat
                                        > > > > > > best.
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > Good luck!
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > Harry
                                        > > > > > > > Analysis
                                        > > > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
                                        > > > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@> wrote:
                                        > > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28 Mk-1, Hull
                                        > > > > > > #116.
                                        > > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the leaking main
                                        > > > > > > cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames like for
                                        > > > > > > example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand how the
                                        > > > > outer
                                        > > > > > > frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little screws
                                        > > > > from
                                        > > > > > > the inner frame?
                                        > > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle but is as
                                        > > > > far
                                        > > > > > > as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the water
                                        > > > > gets in.
                                        > > > > > > PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames from all of
                                        > > > > that
                                        > > > > > > will be fun.
                                        > > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available for the
                                        > > > > > > Mk-1?
                                        > > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
                                        > > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > > Thanks.
                                        > > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        >


                                      • mattcragon
                                        Thanks, Yuriy, The glass I ordered is 1/8, so a bit thinner. What you have here is currently what I have from the Catalina kit. It is unfortunately not a
                                        Message 19 of 25 , Jul 4 10:49 PM
                                        • 0 Attachment
                                          Thanks, Yuriy,

                                          The glass I ordered is 1/8, so a bit thinner. What you have here is currently what I have from the Catalina kit. It is unfortunately not a good fit. What Dave suggests is glazing made for 1/8, but which has the same gap span of 9/32.

                                          I went ahead and ordered what Dave suggested. I will let you know how that works out, but I am hopeful because yours was snug at 9/32. So unless my frame is completely different, which I don't think is, I should be good.

                                          Thanks again for everyone's help. You guys are great!

                                          Matt




                                          --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@...> wrote:
                                          >
                                          > This is the glazing I used with 3/16 glass and it fit snug in the frame. I
                                          > didn't cut external flange as it sealed the edge well.
                                          >
                                          > http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JFMWZQ
                                          >
                                          > On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 12:54 PM, mattcragon <mattcragon@...> wrote:
                                          >
                                          > > **
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > > Thanks, Dave,
                                          > >
                                          > > Good info. I am sure this will fit the glass much better, but now I am
                                          > > wondering about the metal opening.
                                          > >
                                          > > From CR Laurence specs: "it requires a metal opening of 9/32" (7.1 mm)".
                                          > >
                                          > > I am measuring 8.5 mm for my opening. Perhaps there is enough
                                          > > accommodation with the ribs and the silicon to make up that difference. My
                                          > > boat is a Sabre 34 and it might have a bit different frame.
                                          > >
                                          > > Great info on Sabre's technique. I will replicate it when I do my windows.
                                          > >
                                          > > Thanks again,
                                          > >
                                          > > Matt
                                          > >
                                          > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Dave Lochner <davelochner@>
                                          > > wrote:
                                          > > >
                                          > > > Matt,
                                          > > >
                                          > > > CR Laurence sells the glazing. The Model number is D753C and it is
                                          > > available available on Amazon.
                                          > > >
                                          > > > After the glass is in and the frame assembled, Sabre trimmed the
                                          > > external flange from the glazing and used a silicone caulk to seal the
                                          > > opening.
                                          > > >
                                          > > >
                                          > > > Dave
                                          > > >
                                          > > >
                                          > > >
                                          > > >
                                          > > > On Jul 4, 2013, at 11:04 AM, mattcragon wrote:
                                          > > >
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > > Thanks for replying so quickly, Yuriy,
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > > The old glass was 1/8 inch, so that is what I asked the glass shop to
                                          > > make. It does seem when doing a dry fit, with the old glass, there is way
                                          > > more slop than is needed. I didn't think I could get away without the
                                          > > silicone, looking at it. So to your point I probably have the wrong glazing
                                          > > for the glass I ordered.
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > > This could have been pretty bad. I have relied on the Catalina kit to
                                          > > obtain the glazing. Do know where I could get the proper glazing for the
                                          > > job with 1/8th inch windows? Conversely I could bite the bullet and have
                                          > > the glass shop make me 3/16 glass. $200 down the toilet and more lost time
                                          > > with the change in the glass, but it might be beefier, and that would be
                                          > > better.
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > > Thanks again,
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > > Matt
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@>
                                          > > wrote:
                                          > > > > >
                                          > > > > > Hi Matt,
                                          > > > > > I didn't use any sealant on the gray glazing. 3/16" glass lens I
                                          > > installed
                                          > > > > > are fit tight in the channel with the glazing. Yes, I used butyl
                                          > > tape to
                                          > > > > > seal the port to the frame opening.
                                          > > > > > My problem with the ports was that the PO had some one to replace the
                                          > > > > > lenses and he installed 1/8" glass with 3/16" glazing (I guess the
                                          > > one was
                                          > > > > > there before) and sealed the gap with silicone. It was leaking
                                          > > between lens
                                          > > > > > and the glazing.
                                          > > > > >
                                          > > > > > I have not finished all the ports yet, but the ones I did do not
                                          > > leak so
                                          > > > > > far.
                                          > > > > > On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 8:28 PM, mattcragon <mattcragon@> wrote:
                                          > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > **
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > I currently have all of my portholes out. The glass shop is making
                                          > > new
                                          > > > > > > tempered glass as I write this.
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > Just wondering about your bedding process. Did you use silicon
                                          > > both inside
                                          > > > > > > and outside of the grey chanel glazing that goes around the
                                          > > window, like
                                          > > > > > > the Catalina instructions indicate?
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > I am guessing you used butyl tape for the frame to gelcoat
                                          > > junction.
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > I see you went with polishing the frames. I think mine are too
                                          > > pitted for
                                          > > > > > > that, so I am priming and painting them on the visible surfaces.
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > Lastly were you successful in stopping the leaks?
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > Matt
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Yuriy Matsegora <ymatsegora@
                                          > > >
                                          > > > > > > wrote:
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > I'm going through rebedding portlights on my S30 and I have used
                                          > > Harry's
                                          > > > > > > > advice and used butil tape. You just buld up the thikness you
                                          > > need with
                                          > > > > > > > layers of tape. Last weekend I have re-bedded the first
                                          > > portlight. I
                                          > > > > > > don't
                                          > > > > > > > have detailed pictires except the ones below.
                                          > > > > > > > I have also sealed balsa core with west system while I was at it.
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 10:42 AM, jak0570 <jak0570@> wrote:
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > **
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > Harry,
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > thank you very much for your detailed reply!
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > I found a diagram on the Sabre website, so at least I now
                                          > > "understand"
                                          > > > > > > how
                                          > > > > > > > > that port is supposed to work...
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > The ports are currently covered in enormous amounts of
                                          > > silicone, so
                                          > > > > > > what I
                                          > > > > > > > > am most concerned with is cleaning them up nicely top
                                          > > reinstall.
                                          > > > > > > > > That would be a reason to buy new frames if they go around +/-
                                          > > $200.
                                          > > > > > > > > The plexiglass / lexan I can do myself easily as I have the
                                          > > required
                                          > > > > > > > > equipment for plastic work.
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > The re-bedding diagram calls for buytl tape in different
                                          > > widths and
                                          > > > > > > > > thicknesses? I thought it only comes in one thickness?
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > Anyway, I'll see how I'll address this issue, and thanks again!
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "sailor11767"
                                          > > <sailor11767@>
                                          > > > > > > > > wrote:
                                          > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > Welcome to the group! You'll love your boat.
                                          > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > A couple comments on fixed ports.
                                          > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > Those ports are nearly generic -- a LOT of boats have the
                                          > > same ones,
                                          > > > > > > > > including Catalina and Pearson. Some googling may get you some
                                          > > tips. Be
                                          > > > > > > > > very careful trying to remove them, especially the outer trim
                                          > > ring, as
                                          > > > > > > it
                                          > > > > > > > > bends easily.
                                          > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > I removed and reinstalled one small one on my boat. No new
                                          > > parts,
                                          > > > > > > just a
                                          > > > > > > > > remove, inspect, reinstall to solve a leak. It worked. I used
                                          > > butyl for
                                          > > > > > > > > bedding, and it is great stuff. Get some from RC, AKA MainSail
                                          > > (he is
                                          > > > > > > here
                                          > > > > > > > > on this board, but usually the "silent type."). Or just order
                                          > > it from
                                          > > > > > > him
                                          > > > > > > > > here:
                                          > > > > > > > > > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
                                          > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > I posted some info on custom made tempered glass lenses a
                                          > > while back
                                          > > > > > > > > > at this link:
                                          > > > > > > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sabresailboat/message/24495
                                          > > > > > > > > > Bottom line, 4 lenses for a '34 would be under $150
                                          > > delivered. If I
                                          > > > > > > ever
                                          > > > > > > > > get my lights out of the boat, I'll be really tempted to go
                                          > > back with
                                          > > > > > > > > "never scratch, never cloud, never craze" tempered glass. They
                                          > > can even
                                          > > > > > > > > make them tinted.
                                          > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > Also, Catalina Direct sells the rubber for our portlights:
                                          > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=96
                                          > > > > > > > > \7&ParentCat=380
                                          > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > <
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=9
                                          > > > > > > > > \67&ParentCat=380>
                                          > > > > > > > > > You can look around at other size boats for a kit that fits
                                          > > your boat
                                          > > > > > > > > best.
                                          > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > Good luck!
                                          > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > Harry
                                          > > > > > > > > > Analysis
                                          > > > > > > > > > '79 S-34 #063
                                          > > > > > > > > > Mill Creek, Annapolis
                                          > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "jak0570" <jak0570@>
                                          > > wrote:
                                          > > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > > After a rather long search, I purchased a 1974 Sabre 28
                                          > > Mk-1, Hull
                                          > > > > > > > > #116.
                                          > > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > > One of the things I'd like to fix rather soon are the
                                          > > leaking main
                                          > > > > > > > > cabin port-lights. I am familiar with through bolted frames
                                          > > like for
                                          > > > > > > > > example on Tartans, and I currently don't really understand
                                          > > how the
                                          > > > > > > outer
                                          > > > > > > > > frame is pulled flush to the cabinsides with just those little
                                          > > screws
                                          > > > > > > from
                                          > > > > > > > > the inner frame?
                                          > > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > > Outer frame sits flush with the cabinside in the middle
                                          > > but is as
                                          > > > > > > far
                                          > > > > > > > > as 1/4" off at front and back, would assume that's where the
                                          > > water
                                          > > > > > > gets in.
                                          > > > > > > > > PO filled those gaps with silicone. So cleaning the frames
                                          > > from all of
                                          > > > > > > that
                                          > > > > > > > > will be fun.
                                          > > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > > Does anybody know if replacement port-lights are available
                                          > > for the
                                          > > > > > > > > Mk-1?
                                          > > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > > Any idea would be much appreciated.
                                          > > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > > > Thanks.
                                          > > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > >
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > >
                                          > > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          >
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