Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [SabreSailboat] W33 Starter repair/replacement

Expand Messages
  • Allison Lehman
    One of the things it seems Westerbeke does differently is when they OEM a part they try to get the company who built it not to to sell the exact same part.
    Message 1 of 13 , Mar 10, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      One of the things it seems Westerbeke does differently is when they OEM a part they try to get the company who built it not to to sell the exact same part.  Example would be Johnson water pump.  Johns sells water pumps but not the one for the W35B.  It is built by Johnson but you can only buy from Westerbeke.  When we looked for the same pump w/a different part # no luck.

      Allison





      On Mar 10, 2013, at 6:40 AM, sailor11767 wrote:

       

      No help on a W33, but I had the same problem on my Volvo. New OEM starter had a comma in the price tag, new OEM solenoid was several hundred. At that price, I was seriously considering repowering!

      I scraped off the paint on the solenoid, and there was a Bosch part number. Used that part number to order it for $36 from an online automotive vendor. Looks and acts like the original.

      See if you can get the part # off the solenoid. I bet W. didn't engineer and build it from scratch.

      Good luck,

      Hary

      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "stebenb9567" <stebenb9567@...> wrote:
      >
      > Any experiences with/ recommendations for /comments on after market starters for the W33?
      >
      > I've got a bad solenoid. Given the price of a complete OEM starter, I'm considering either 1) a new OEM solenoid or 2) a complete after market starter.
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Steve
      > Wind Rush II
      > S38-I
      >


    • mainecruising
      Find yourself a good old mom & pop auto electric shop who re-builds starters and alternators. They will fix it for you for next to nothing. I ve yet to have
      Message 2 of 13 , Mar 10, 2013
      • 0 Attachment
        Find yourself a good old "mom & pop" auto electric shop who re-builds starters and alternators. They will fix it for you for next to nothing.

        I've yet to have my shop not be able to find me parts or repair a starter or alternator even many of the older "discontinued" Yanmar pieces.... I've done a number of Westerbeke starters (really Mitsubishi on many later Westerbeke engines) and I walk out of there pretty darn cheaply compared to new or re-built...

        -RC

        --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "stebenb9567" <stebenb9567@...> wrote:
        >
        > Any experiences with/ recommendations for /comments on after market starters for the W33?
        >
        > I've got a bad solenoid. Given the price of a complete OEM starter, I'm considering either 1) a new OEM solenoid or 2) a complete after market starter.
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Steve
        > Wind Rush II
        > S38-I
        >
      • Peter Tollini
        RC is right on the money (again). Just look for auto electric to find a local shop. Pete
        Message 3 of 13 , Mar 10, 2013
        • 0 Attachment
          RC is right on the money (again). Just look for "auto electric" to find a local shop.
          Pete


          On Sun, Mar 10, 2013 at 4:16 PM, mainecruising <mainecruising@...> wrote:
           

          Find yourself a good old "mom & pop" auto electric shop who re-builds starters and alternators. They will fix it for you for next to nothing.

          I've yet to have my shop not be able to find me parts or repair a starter or alternator even many of the older "discontinued" Yanmar pieces.... I've done a number of Westerbeke starters (really Mitsubishi on many later Westerbeke engines) and I walk out of there pretty darn cheaply compared to new or re-built...

          -RC



          --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "stebenb9567" <stebenb9567@...> wrote:
          >
          > Any experiences with/ recommendations for /comments on after market starters for the W33?
          >
          > I've got a bad solenoid. Given the price of a complete OEM starter, I'm considering either 1) a new OEM solenoid or 2) a complete after market starter.
          >
          > Thanks,
          > Steve
          > Wind Rush II
          > S38-I
          >


        • Janice Kowalke
          I had the fun of removing one genoa track this past weekend due to a leak.  I have butyl tape I ordered from Maincruising and would like recommendations as to
          Message 4 of 13 , Mar 11, 2013
          • 0 Attachment
            I had the fun of removing one genoa track this past weekend due to a leak.  I have butyl tape I ordered from Maincruising and would like recommendations as to the best practice for rebedding the track.  Obviously I will be putting the butly on the bolts as recommended, but should I put one long peice the entire length of the track or just a few inches on either side of each hole in the track? 
             
            Thanks,
            Jan
            Lighten Up
            S38 MKII

            From: mainecruising <mainecruising@...>
            To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 4:16 PM
            Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: W33 Starter repair/replacement
             
            Find yourself a good old "mom & pop" auto electric shop who re-builds starters and alternators. They will fix it for you for next to nothing.

            I've yet to have my shop not be able to find me parts or repair a starter or alternator even many of the older "discontinued" Yanmar pieces.... I've done a number of Westerbeke starters (really Mitsubishi on many later Westerbeke engines) and I walk out of there pretty darn cheaply compared to new or re-built...

            -RC

            --- In mailto:Sabresailboat%40yahoogroups.com, "stebenb9567" <stebenb9567@...> wrote:
            >
            > Any experiences with/ recommendations for /comments on after market starters for the W33?
            >
            > I've got a bad solenoid. Given the price of a complete OEM starter, I'm considering either 1) a new OEM solenoid or 2) a complete after market starter.
            >
            > Thanks,
            > Steve
            > Wind Rush II
            > S38-I
            >

          • Janice Kowalke
            I should have started a new thread.  Sorry. ... From: Janice Kowalke To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
            Message 5 of 13 , Mar 11, 2013
            • 0 Attachment
              I should have started a new thread.  Sorry.

              ----- Forwarded Message -----
              From: Janice Kowalke <JKowalke@...>
              To: "Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com" <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 8:44 AM
              Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: W33 Starter repair/replacement
               
              I had the fun of removing one genoa track this past weekend due to a leak.  I have butyl tape I ordered from Maincruising and would like recommendations as to the best practice for rebedding the track.  Obviously I will be putting the butly on the bolts as recommended, but should I put one long peice the entire length of the track or just a few inches on either side of each hole in the track? 
               
              Thanks,
              Jan
              Lighten Up
              S38 MKII

              From: mainecruising <mainecruising@...>
              To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 4:16 PM
              Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: W33 Starter repair/replacement
               
              Find yourself a good old "mom & pop" auto electric shop who re-builds starters and alternators. They will fix it for you for next to nothing. I've yet to have my shop not be able to find me parts or repair a starter or alternator even many of the older "discontinued" Yanmar pieces.... I've done a number of Westerbeke starters (really Mitsubishi on many later Westerbeke engines) and I walk out of there pretty darn cheaply compared to new or re-built... -RC
              --- In mailto:Sabresailboat%40yahoogroups.com, "stebenb9567" <stebenb9567@...> wrote: > > Any experiences with/ recommendations for /comments on after market starters for the W33? > > I've got a bad solenoid. Given the price of a complete OEM starter, I'm considering either 1) a new OEM solenoid or 2) a complete after market starter. > > Thanks, > Steve > Wind Rush II > S38-I >
            • Peter Tollini
              Jan - Illustrated and all, courtesy of RC... http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware I would countersink the holes, wrap the screws as shown and
              Message 6 of 13 , Mar 11, 2013
              • 0 Attachment
                Jan -

                Illustrated and all, courtesy of RC...

                I would countersink the holes, wrap the screws as shown and do a strip the length of the track.

                Pete


                On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 8:44 AM, Janice Kowalke <JKowalke@...> wrote:
                 

                I had the fun of removing one genoa track this past weekend due to a leak.  I have butyl tape I ordered from Maincruising and would like recommendations as to the best practice for rebedding the track.  Obviously I will be putting the butly on the bolts as recommended, but should I put one long peice the entire length of the track or just a few inches on either side of each hole in the track? 
                 
                Thanks,
                Jan
                Lighten Up
                S38 MKII

                From: mainecruising <mainecruising@...>
                To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 4:16 PM
                Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: W33 Starter repair/replacement
                 
                Find yourself a good old "mom & pop" auto electric shop who re-builds starters and alternators. They will fix it for you for next to nothing.

                I've yet to have my shop not be able to find me parts or repair a starter or alternator even many of the older "discontinued" Yanmar pieces.... I've done a number of Westerbeke starters (really Mitsubishi on many later Westerbeke engines) and I walk out of there pretty darn cheaply compared to new or re-built...

                -RC

                --- In mailto:Sabresailboat%40yahoogroups.com, "stebenb9567" <stebenb9567@...> wrote:
                >
                > Any experiences with/ recommendations for /comments on after market starters for the W33?
                >
                > I've got a bad solenoid. Given the price of a complete OEM starter, I'm considering either 1) a new OEM solenoid or 2) a complete after market starter.
                >
                > Thanks,
                > Steve
                > Wind Rush II
                > S38-I
                >


              • mainecruising
                Jan, *Bevel / countersink the deck holes slightly. *Wrap the bolt heads then press each one into the cleaned track. *Next wrap each bolt under the track. *Now
                Message 7 of 13 , Mar 11, 2013
                • 0 Attachment
                  Jan,

                  *Bevel / countersink the deck holes slightly.

                  *Wrap the bolt heads then press each one into the cleaned track.

                  *Next wrap each bolt under the track.

                  *Now place butyl on the underside of the track between butyl coned each bolt

                  *Drop the track with bolts into place and so the bolts are in each hole (cleaned & prepped of course)

                  *Place a 3' long board over the track and walk back and forth, then move it up the track and repeat. This compresses the butyl and also keeps the bolts from popping up.

                  *Get a partner to hold the screws with a screw driver and you go below and slowly tighten the nuts.

                  *Don't over tighten and do allow the butyl to "oooze out" it may take four or five small tightening events . Be patient...

                  -RC

                  --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Janice Kowalke <JKowalke@...> wrote:
                  >
                  >
                  > I should have started a new thread.  Sorry.
                  >
                  > ----- Forwarded Message -----
                  > From: Janice Kowalke <JKowalke@...>
                  > To: "Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com" <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
                  > Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 8:44 AM
                  > Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: W33 Starter repair/replacement
                  >
                  >
                  >  
                  >
                  > I had the fun of removing one genoa track this past weekend due to a leak.  I have butyl tape I ordered from Maincruising and would like recommendations as to the best practice for rebedding the track.  Obviously I will be putting the butly on the bolts as recommended, but should I put one long peice the entire length of the track or just a few inches on either side of each hole in the track? 
                  >  
                  > Thanks,
                  > Jan
                  > Lighten Up
                  > S38 MKII
                  >
                  >
                  > ________________________________
                  > From: mainecruising <mainecruising@...>
                  > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                  > Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 4:16 PM
                  > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: W33 Starter repair/replacement
                  >
                  >  
                  > Find yourself a good old "mom & pop" auto electric shop who re-builds starters and alternators. They will fix it for you for next to nothing. I've yet to have my shop not be able to find me parts or repair a starter or alternator even many of the older "discontinued" Yanmar pieces.... I've done a number of Westerbeke starters (really Mitsubishi on many later Westerbeke engines) and I walk out of there pretty darn cheaply compared to new or re-built... -RC --- In mailto:Sabresailboat%40yahoogroups.com, "stebenb9567" <stebenb9567@> wrote: > > Any experiences with/ recommendations for /comments on after market starters for the W33? > > I've got a bad solenoid. Given the price of a complete OEM starter, I'm considering either 1) a new OEM solenoid or 2) a complete after market starter. > > Thanks, > Steve > Wind Rush II > S38-I >
                  >
                • r.cucchiara@att.net
                  At survey today the centerboard wouldn t drop. Marine growth removed and finally it came down. Worked up and down, made a side to side clunk. When it was
                  Message 8 of 13 , Mar 11, 2013
                  • 0 Attachment
                    At survey today the centerboard wouldn't drop. Marine growth removed and finally it came down. Worked up and down, made a side to side clunk.
                    When it was pulled up it went easy at first, then hard for a few turns, then easy again a few turns then hard again. After it was put in the water again, it wouldn't drop even in the slip. It just didn't seem like ALL the problem was marine growth. Do these symptoms fit anything you centerboard people have encountered?


                    From: Peter Tollini <pete@...>
                    To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Mon, March 11, 2013 12:40:34 PM
                    Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: W33 Starter repair/replacement

                     

                    Jan -

                    Illustrated and all, courtesy of RC...

                    I would countersink the holes, wrap the screws as shown and do a strip the length of the track.

                    Pete


                    On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 8:44 AM, Janice Kowalke <JKowalke@...> wrote:
                     

                    I had the fun of removing one genoa track this past weekend due to a leak.  I have butyl tape I ordered from Maincruising and would like recommendations as to the best practice for rebedding the track.  Obviously I will be putting the butly on the bolts as recommended, but should I put one long peice the entire length of the track or just a few inches on either side of each hole in the track? 
                     
                    Thanks,
                    Jan
                    Lighten Up
                    S38 MKII

                    From: mainecruising <mainecruising@...>
                    To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 4:16 PM
                    Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: W33 Starter repair/replacement
                     
                    Find yourself a good old "mom & pop" auto electric shop who re-builds starters and alternators. They will fix it for you for next to nothing.

                    I've yet to have my shop not be able to find me parts or repair a starter or alternator even many of the older "discontinued" Yanmar pieces.... I've done a number of Westerbeke starters (really Mitsubishi on many later Westerbeke engines) and I walk out of there pretty darn cheaply compared to new or re-built...

                    -RC

                    --- In mailto:Sabresailboat%40yahoogroups.com, "stebenb9567" <stebenb9567@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > Any experiences with/ recommendations for /comments on after market starters for the W33?
                    >
                    > I've got a bad solenoid. Given the price of a complete OEM starter, I'm considering either 1) a new OEM solenoid or 2) a complete after market starter.
                    >
                    > Thanks,
                    > Steve
                    > Wind Rush II
                    > S38-I
                    >


                  • john kalinowski
                    though you should have started a different thread than bedding compounds... Sounds like you did not get all the crud out.The centerboard came down the first
                    Message 9 of 13 , Mar 11, 2013
                    • 0 Attachment
                      though you should have started a different thread than bedding compounds...

                      Sounds like you did not get all the crud out.
                      The centerboard came down the first time, but on the way up, some crud (eg mussels or clump of barricles) still in there jammed. Likely above the board. On the way down, the taper let it fall.  Your cranking may have helped grind it in deeper.

                      Best would be a quick haul and use the centerboard rod and a SMALL hammer to tap it down. Have some check if anything comes out.   Else do the same while in the water.

                      Muscles and barricles love that slot.  If you find one group, always power wash and inspect with a flashlight for more.  You will find more if you look hard enough.   At haul out, power wash that slot was much as you can.  It not only keeps the growth down, but also washes the slit out of the trunk at the sheave which can keep the dirt from cutting into the cable.


                      john

                      --- On Mon, 3/11/13, r.cucchiara@... <r.cucchiara@...> wrote:

                      From: r.cucchiara@... <r.cucchiara@...>
                      Subject: [SabreSailboat] 38MKII centerboard won't drop
                      To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                      Date: Monday, March 11, 2013, 10:42 PM

                       

                      At survey today the centerboard wouldn't drop. Marine growth removed and finally it came down. Worked up and down, made a side to side clunk.
                      When it was pulled up it went easy at first, then hard for a few turns, then easy again a few turns then hard again. After it was put in the water again, it wouldn't drop even in the slip. It just didn't seem like ALL the problem was marine growth. Do these symptoms fit anything you centerboard people have encountered?


                      From: Peter Tollini <pete@...>
                      To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Mon, March 11, 2013 12:40:34 PM
                      Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: W33 Starter repair/replacement

                       

                      Jan -

                      Illustrated and all, courtesy of RC...

                      I would countersink the holes, wrap the screws as shown and do a strip the length of the track.

                      Pete


                      On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 8:44 AM, Janice Kowalke <JKowalke@...> wrote:
                       

                      I had the fun of removing one genoa track this past weekend due to a leak.  I have butyl tape I ordered from Maincruising and would like recommendations as to the best practice for rebedding the track.  Obviously I will be putting the butly on the bolts as recommended, but should I put one long peice the entire length of the track or just a few inches on either side of each hole in the track? 
                       
                      Thanks,
                      Jan
                      Lighten Up
                      S38 MKII

                      From: mainecruising <mainecruising@...>
                      To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 4:16 PM
                      Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: W33 Starter repair/replacement
                       
                      Find yourself a good old "mom & pop" auto electric shop who re-builds starters and alternators. They will fix it for you for next to nothing.

                      I've yet to have my shop not be able to find me parts or repair a starter or alternator even many of the older "discontinued" Yanmar pieces.... I've done a number of Westerbeke starters (really Mitsubishi on many later Westerbeke engines) and I walk out of there pretty darn cheaply compared to new or re-built...

                      -RC

                      --- In mailto:Sabresailboat%40yahoogroups.com, "stebenb9567" <stebenb9567@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > Any experiences with/ recommendations for /comments on after market starters for the W33?
                      >
                      > I've got a bad solenoid. Given the price of a complete OEM starter, I'm considering either 1) a new OEM solenoid or 2) a complete after market starter.
                      >
                      > Thanks,
                      > Steve
                      > Wind Rush II
                      > S38-I
                      >


                    Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.