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Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves

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  • THOMAS JOHNSON
    Scott - I have seen water shoot up 18 from a thru-hull taken out.  I ll wait until I haul so I can really see and feel the process.  The pressure was ever
    Message 1 of 12 , Feb 21, 2013
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      Scott - I have seen water shoot up 18" from a thru-hull taken out.  I'll wait until I haul so I can really see and feel the process.  The pressure was ever so gentle - I now have a wood mallet on board and thin wrench.

      --- On Wed, 2/20/13, Scott <targa387@...> wrote:

      From: Scott <targa387@...>
      Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves
      To: "Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com" <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
      Date: Wednesday, February 20, 2013, 10:03 PM

       

      Tom,
      Lee is correct that this can be done. But, if you've never opened a 1/2" to 1" hole in the bottom of a sizable floating boat before, just be ready with the proper sized plug! He is correct that it can be done with only a couple cups of water coming in. Just know that those cups of water will come very fast. Expect your heart rate to jump. And when installing the plug, it may spray all around your location. Move anything you don't want wet, out of the way. If you were considering hauling only for this reason, then it makes sense to try it. But, if you're hauling for other reasons as well, then you might want to wait and do it dry the first time. That way you can confirm your plug is a good fit, and you'd have a good feel for how the whole procedure goes. (although it is very easy)
      Also, I saw your comment about using some pvc to add "gentle leverage" to the handle. I cringed, hoping that that leverage was indeed gentle. The handle and the tab it connects to are weak points. Anytime the barrel gets stuck, it's best to loosen the nut side a little and tap with a wood or rubber mallet to release the frozen barrel. By taping the barrel on the nut side, it pushes it out in a natural direction due to the taper.  

      Scott


      From: Thomas Johnson <tomsppath@...>
      To: "Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com" <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 6:27 PM
      Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves

       
      Good advice.  Thought I needed to haul her.   Ill do it!

      Sent from my iPad

      On Feb 20, 2013, at 2:56 PM, jack horner <captbluwater@...> wrote:

       
      Tom do not be afraid of thru hull valves.. you can take them apart in the water. Just use wood plugs to fill the hole there will not be more than 2 cups of water..
       Remove the nut from the end and tap them out and put a wood plug back in  now use lapping compound  found at auto parts stores to smooth piston cylinders.compound on a rag and twist for some stroked.than  remove the plug and quickly insert the plug full of compound  work it back and forth . than remove it re plug  water proof grease and insert. will work good for years !



      From: Thomas Johnson <tomsppath@...>
      To: "Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com" <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 11:02 PM
      Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves

       
      I cut a 10" piece of PVC pipe for added gentle leverage and got them moving!  The holding tank thru-hull is now rightly closed for sf bay.  Next haul out I can't wait to Lapp them all. Much thanks.  

      Sent from my iPhone

      On Feb 19, 2013, at 5:56 PM, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@...> wrote:

       
      If well maintained, those valves will outlast the boat. If your boat is in the water, the instructions you were sent to will get you a lot of water inside! But if you can break it loose by backing off the nut a turn or two, you can probably limp along until the next haul out.

      Lapping all of them, at least a few turns, is part of my haul out list.

      Harry

      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, THOMAS JOHNSON wrote:
      >
      > On my "new" 1986 S34 - which surveyed to be in excellent condition - the surveyor indicated that the through hull valves for water intake and holding tank discharge did not move when the lever was attempted.  The previous owner had the valves worked on and reported that they work - I still can't get them to budge - is there a repair kit for those valves?  (each has a bronze lever on a pin with a large nut on the other side) .
      >
      > Thanks - and also thanks for the info on autopilots!
      >





    • john kalinowski
      some have had good luck with a traditional toilet plunger on the outside.  I imagine a 1.5 circle of plastic sheet (eg cole slaw container) with a wire
      Message 2 of 12 , Feb 21, 2013
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        some have had good luck with a traditional toilet plunger on the outside.  I imagine a 1.5" circle of plastic sheet (eg cole slaw container) with a wire coming through it could be slid into the opening from the outside, followed by some waterproof electical putty (about $2 at any hardware store).  Once done, close the seacock, and then pull the plastic/putty plug out from the outside.

        --- On Thu, 2/21/13, THOMAS JOHNSON <tomsppath@...> wrote:

        From: THOMAS JOHNSON <tomsppath@...>
        Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves
        To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Thursday, February 21, 2013, 10:40 AM

         

        Scott - I have seen water shoot up 18" from a thru-hull taken out.  I'll wait until I haul so I can really see and feel the process.  The pressure was ever so gentle - I now have a wood mallet on board and thin wrench.

        --- On Wed, 2/20/13, Scott <targa387@...> wrote:

        From: Scott <targa387@...>
        Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves
        To: "Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com" <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
        Date: Wednesday, February 20, 2013, 10:03 PM

         

        Tom,
        Lee is correct that this can be done. But, if you've never opened a 1/2" to 1" hole in the bottom of a sizable floating boat before, just be ready with the proper sized plug! He is correct that it can be done with only a couple cups of water coming in. Just know that those cups of water will come very fast. Expect your heart rate to jump. And when installing the plug, it may spray all around your location. Move anything you don't want wet, out of the way. If you were considering hauling only for this reason, then it makes sense to try it. But, if you're hauling for other reasons as well, then you might want to wait and do it dry the first time. That way you can confirm your plug is a good fit, and you'd have a good feel for how the whole procedure goes. (although it is very easy)
        Also, I saw your comment about using some pvc to add "gentle leverage" to the handle. I cringed, hoping that that leverage was indeed gentle. The handle and the tab it connects to are weak points. Anytime the barrel gets stuck, it's best to loosen the nut side a little and tap with a wood or rubber mallet to release the frozen barrel. By taping the barrel on the nut side, it pushes it out in a natural direction due to the taper.  

        Scott


        From: Thomas Johnson <tomsppath@...>
        To: "Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com" <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 6:27 PM
        Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves

         
        Good advice.  Thought I needed to haul her.   Ill do it!

        Sent from my iPad

        On Feb 20, 2013, at 2:56 PM, jack horner <captbluwater@...> wrote:

         
        Tom do not be afraid of thru hull valves.. you can take them apart in the water. Just use wood plugs to fill the hole there will not be more than 2 cups of water..
         Remove the nut from the end and tap them out and put a wood plug back in  now use lapping compound  found at auto parts stores to smooth piston cylinders.compound on a rag and twist for some stroked.than  remove the plug and quickly insert the plug full of compound  work it back and forth . than remove it re plug  water proof grease and insert. will work good for years !



        From: Thomas Johnson <tomsppath@...>
        To: "Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com" <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 11:02 PM
        Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves

         
        I cut a 10" piece of PVC pipe for added gentle leverage and got them moving!  The holding tank thru-hull is now rightly closed for sf bay.  Next haul out I can't wait to Lapp them all. Much thanks.  

        Sent from my iPhone

        On Feb 19, 2013, at 5:56 PM, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@...> wrote:

         
        If well maintained, those valves will outlast the boat. If your boat is in the water, the instructions you were sent to will get you a lot of water inside! But if you can break it loose by backing off the nut a turn or two, you can probably limp along until the next haul out.

        Lapping all of them, at least a few turns, is part of my haul out list.

        Harry

        --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, THOMAS JOHNSON wrote:
        >
        > On my "new" 1986 S34 - which surveyed to be in excellent condition - the surveyor indicated that the through hull valves for water intake and holding tank discharge did not move when the lever was attempted.  The previous owner had the valves worked on and reported that they work - I still can't get them to budge - is there a repair kit for those valves?  (each has a bronze lever on a pin with a large nut on the other side) .
        >
        > Thanks - and also thanks for the info on autopilots!
        >





      • Stephen
        Take seacocks apart carefully, as other have noted. You might want to check out the seacock grease from spartanmarine.com It is like the old water pump
        Message 3 of 12 , Feb 22, 2013
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          Take seacocks apart carefully, as other have noted. You might want to check out the seacock grease from spartanmarine.com It is like the old water pump grease-very durable, and they also sell lapping compound, wrenches, etc... Properly maintained, the bronze seacocks should outlast you and the boat. Replacement is an option, if absolutely necessary, but they are sealed with 5200. One friend got a broken one out easily, but it can be an involved process, so don't just put use a a large pipe to free up a stuck seacock and and risk breaking something. If one really won't turn, or the nut is stuck, apply a good penetrating oil, and/or remove the top hose, seal the thru hull outside of the hull (I am assuming you are hauled out) and then fill the entire seacock with Marvel Mystery Oil and let it sit. You can even apply moderat heat to get the taper to unseat if a tap with a hammer doesn't do it.
        • jack horner
          You can do a wood hull plug from the outside , but ya have to get wet ! I have done this all ducks in a row, wood plug, mallet  wrenches and terry towel and
          Message 4 of 12 , Feb 27, 2013
          • 0 Attachment
            You can do a wood hull plug from the outside , but ya have to get wet !
            I have done this all ducks in a row, wood plug, mallet  wrenches and terry towel and removed the  barrel and replaced it with a plug and only 1/2 cup water per thru hull.  I did every barrel in my S 28 this way.  lapped and greased too !
            Yes  ya get nervous am i going to sink her ! Until ya relize the pump is really large enough to bail ya out !Honest
             S-28  Sandpiper  Fla  Lee



            From: john kalinowski <sabre32sailor@...>
            To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2013 11:24 AM
            Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves

             
            some have had good luck with a traditional toilet plunger on the outside.  I imagine a 1.5" circle of plastic sheet (eg cole slaw container) with a wire coming through it could be slid into the opening from the outside, followed by some waterproof electical putty (about $2 at any hardware store).  Once done, close the seacock, and then pull the plastic/putty plug out from the outside.

            --- On Thu, 2/21/13, THOMAS JOHNSON <tomsppath@...> wrote:

            From: THOMAS JOHNSON <tomsppath@...>
            Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves
            To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
            Date: Thursday, February 21, 2013, 10:40 AM

             
            Scott - I have seen water shoot up 18" from a thru-hull taken out.  I'll wait until I haul so I can really see and feel the process.  The pressure was ever so gentle - I now have a wood mallet on board and thin wrench.

            --- On Wed, 2/20/13, Scott <targa387@...> wrote:

            From: Scott <targa387@...>
            Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves
            To: "Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com" <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
            Date: Wednesday, February 20, 2013, 10:03 PM

             
            Tom,
            Lee is correct that this can be done. But, if you've never opened a 1/2" to 1" hole in the bottom of a sizable floating boat before, just be ready with the proper sized plug! He is correct that it can be done with only a couple cups of water coming in. Just know that those cups of water will come very fast. Expect your heart rate to jump. And when installing the plug, it may spray all around your location. Move anything you don't want wet, out of the way. If you were considering hauling only for this reason, then it makes sense to try it. But, if you're hauling for other reasons as well, then you might want to wait and do it dry the first time. That way you can confirm your plug is a good fit, and you'd have a good feel for how the whole procedure goes. (although it is very easy)
            Also, I saw your comment about using some pvc to add "gentle leverage" to the handle. I cringed, hoping that that leverage was indeed gentle. The handle and the tab it connects to are weak points. Anytime the barrel gets stuck, it's best to loosen the nut side a little and tap with a wood or rubber mallet to release the frozen barrel. By taping the barrel on the nut side, it pushes it out in a natural direction due to the taper.  

            Scott


            From: Thomas Johnson <tomsppath@...>
            To: "Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com" <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 6:27 PM
            Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves

             
            Good advice.  Thought I needed to haul her.   Ill do it!

            Sent from my iPad

            On Feb 20, 2013, at 2:56 PM, jack horner <captbluwater@...> wrote:

             
            Tom do not be afraid of thru hull valves.. you can take them apart in the water. Just use wood plugs to fill the hole there will not be more than 2 cups of water..
             Remove the nut from the end and tap them out and put a wood plug back in  now use lapping compound  found at auto parts stores to smooth piston cylinders.compound on a rag and twist for some stroked.than  remove the plug and quickly insert the plug full of compound  work it back and forth . than remove it re plug  water proof grease and insert. will work good for years !



            From: Thomas Johnson <tomsppath@...>
            To: "Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com" <Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 11:02 PM
            Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Through Hull Bronze Valves

             
            I cut a 10" piece of PVC pipe for added gentle leverage and got them moving!  The holding tank thru-hull is now rightly closed for sf bay.  Next haul out I can't wait to Lapp them all. Much thanks.  

            Sent from my iPhone

            On Feb 19, 2013, at 5:56 PM, "sailor11767" <sailor11767@...> wrote:

             
            If well maintained, those valves will outlast the boat. If your boat is in the water, the instructions you were sent to will get you a lot of water inside! But if you can break it loose by backing off the nut a turn or two, you can probably limp along until the next haul out.

            Lapping all of them, at least a few turns, is part of my haul out list.

            Harry

            --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, THOMAS JOHNSON wrote:
            >
            > On my "new" 1986 S34 - which surveyed to be in excellent condition - the surveyor indicated that the through hull valves for water intake and holding tank discharge did not move when the lever was attempted.  The previous owner had the valves worked on and reported that they work - I still can't get them to budge - is there a repair kit for those valves?  (each has a bronze lever on a pin with a large nut on the other side) .
            >
            > Thanks - and also thanks for the info on autopilots!
            >







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