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Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Pulling the shaft, removing the coupling

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  • john kalinowski
    Rather than take on the shaft, it is far easier to cut the coupling with a grinder. Just use a 3 disk and make multiple light passes down it s lenght until
    Message 1 of 11 , Jan 18, 2013
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      Rather than take on the shaft, it is far easier to cut the coupling with a grinder.
      Just use a 3" disk and make multiple light passes down it's lenght until the groove is just about to the shaft.
      Then use a hammer with a large screw driver/steel chisel to crack open the final bit of coupler..
      Will leave your shaft unharmed.
      If it still will not let go (some are a real pia), rotate the coupling 180 degrees and do it again.
       
      Had one of the flange ears shatter using the socket trick one time.
      This technique got the flange off real quick and is a lot cheaper than a shaft.
      Best to bring the grinder with you "just in case" if you own one.
      Couplers are not that expensive.
       
      john

      --- On Thu, 1/17/13, mhrutstein <mhrutstein@...> wrote:

      From: mhrutstein <mhrutstein@...>
      Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: Pulling the shaft, removing the coupling
      To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Thursday, January 17, 2013, 9:28 PM

       
      Thanks, guys. I think I will try to slip a socket in between the transmission and coupling first. If that doesn't work then I will look around for something we can cut the shaft with, as Pete suggested.

      I've never cut a 1" stainless shaft before, but I did spend a week threading all of the silicon bronze bolts for a 30-ton schooner, and that was not much fun.

      Mike
      STBNL

    • Peter Tollini
      A socket, slightly smaller than the shaft and longer bolts can work. Don t overtighten, PB Blaster or loose juice, heat (heat gun, not a torch and rapping
      Message 2 of 11 , Jan 18, 2013
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        A socket, slightly smaller than the shaft and longer bolts can work.  Don't overtighten, PB Blaster or loose juice, heat (heat gun, not a torch and rapping with a small hammer on the outside of the coupler.


        On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 8:00 PM, Jan <workshoe99@...> wrote:
         

        Trying to recall one of the threads of years back, it seems like someone suggested placing an extra nut slightly smaller than the shaft between the split flanges and then using longer bolts to gradually tighten them equally should push the shaft out of the flange. I would suggest the liberal application of "loose juice" (50% acetone/50% brake fluid discussed here a few months back) would help this situation. Someone suggested heat- also good but be careful not to start a fire.

        Just my $0.02- Jan S38 MkI "Capriccio"


        --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, john kalinowski wrote:
        >
        > search the notes for shaft + remove
        > There are lots of detailed adventures (note: I did not use the word FUN)  from many of us documented.
        >
        > --- On Thu, 1/17/13, mhrutstein wrote:
        >
        >
        > From: mhrutstein
        > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Pulling the shaft, removing the coupling
        > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
        > Date: Thursday, January 17, 2013, 10:15 AM
        >
        >
        >
        >  
        >
        >
        >
        > Moving along with our refit of our Sabre 38 Mk I, we want to pull the shaft so we can shorten it by an inch, install a Drivesaver, replace the stuffing box, and clean up the prop.
        >
        > To do this we need to to remove the coupling from the shaft.
        >
        > One advisor says go with a flange puller (available online for $35) and some heat. Another says put the coupling back on the transmission, shoot some grease in through the set-screw holes, and draw the shaft out with a shaft puller ($10/day rental).
        >
        > Does anyone who has done this recently have an opinion about the proper way to do this?
        >
        > Mike
        > Sabre To Be Named Later
        > (leaning toward TREASURE)
        >


      • walkabout193
        Prepare to meet the profanesaurous, no matter what. Len Bertaux Walkabout S38 mkii
        Message 3 of 11 , Jan 19, 2013
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          Prepare to meet the profanesaurous, no matter what.

          Len Bertaux
          Walkabout S38 mkii

          --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "Jan" wrote:
          >
          > Trying to recall one of the threads of years back, it seems like someone suggested placing an extra nut slightly smaller than the shaft between the split flanges and then using longer bolts to gradually tighten them equally should push the shaft out of the flange. I would suggest the liberal application of "loose juice" (50% acetone/50% brake fluid discussed here a few months back) would help this situation. Someone suggested heat- also good but be careful not to start a fire.
          >
          > Just my $0.02- Jan S38 MkI "Capriccio"
          >
          > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, john kalinowski wrote:
          > >
          > > search the notes for shaft + remove
          > > There are lots of detailed adventures (note: I did not use the word FUN)  from many of us documented.
          > >
          > > --- On Thu, 1/17/13, mhrutstein wrote:
          > >
          > >
          > > From: mhrutstein
          > > Subject: [SabreSailboat] Pulling the shaft, removing the coupling
          > > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
          > > Date: Thursday, January 17, 2013, 10:15 AM
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >  
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > Moving along with our refit of our Sabre 38 Mk I, we want to pull the shaft so we can shorten it by an inch, install a Drivesaver, replace the stuffing box, and clean up the prop.
          > >
          > > To do this we need to to remove the coupling from the shaft.
          > >
          > > One advisor says go with a flange puller (available online for $35) and some heat. Another says put the coupling back on the transmission, shoot some grease in through the set-screw holes, and draw the shaft out with a shaft puller ($10/day rental).
          > >
          > > Does anyone who has done this recently have an opinion about the proper way to do this?
          > >
          > > Mike
          > > Sabre To Be Named Later
          > > (leaning toward TREASURE)
          > >
          >
        • mhrutstein
          Postscript: we placed a socket between the coupling and transmission, tightened up four long bolts, tried some heat, tapping & PBB... no luck. So, leaving the
          Message 4 of 11 , Jan 20, 2013
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            Postscript: we placed a socket between the coupling and transmission, tightened up four long bolts, tried some heat, tapping & PBB... no luck.

            So, leaving the socket and the tension on, we attached a shaft-puller and commenced making timed blows on the shaft and coupling. This, combined with an occasional break for heat, PBB, and bolt tightening, did the trick after about half an hour, and the shaft and coupling came apart with no damage done.

            Huzzah!

            Now, when it all goes back together, do we want to install a split coupling?

            Mike
            STBNL
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