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Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: install windlass

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  • Dave Lochner
    Here s links to the article Len mentions: http://www.cruisingworld.com/gear/smooth-sailing-while-installing-a-windlass
    Message 1 of 14 , Jan 14, 2013
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      Here's links to the article Len mentions:



      Dave


      On Jan 14, 2013, at 1:09 PM, walkabout193 wrote:

       

      Here are two additional choices.
      Rather than split the anchor locker lid I have seen 38 mkII's where the windlass is installed behind the anchor locker. A chain pipe was installed to lead forward into the anchor locker. The motor and the chain pipe were concealed with a new 1x6 teak/cherry going port to starboard. Disadvantage here is that nylon rode won't feed well through the pipe.
      A few years back Cruising World ran a story on a S34 that installed a horizontal windlass in the anchor locker on a custom alum. bracket that was in turn secured to the aft bulkhead of the locker. The advantage here was the entire windlass was concealed once the locker hatch was shut. Same approach would work on all our boats. I think I might be able to locate and scan the article if you're interested.

      Len Bertaux
      Walkabout S38 MKII

      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "ssfein" wrote:
      >
      > I want to install a windlass on my 38 mk 1 and am wondering what others have done. It would seem hard to get a vertical type to fit there being issues of motor in the v birth and rope fall. One option I saw on a saber 34 was to put a horizontal lewmar 1000 in the anchor locker on a custom bracket. My back says it is time
      > thanks
      >


    • Steven Fein
      Thanks, I got a look at that article and that is the way I am going. Looks neat and keeps everything off the deck.
      Message 2 of 14 , Jan 15, 2013
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        Thanks, I got a look at that article and that is the way I am going.
        Looks neat and keeps everything off the deck.
      • rcarter2234
        I did a similar, in locker, horizontal install on my S38. Included a stainless strike plate at the forward end of the locker, which includes a snubber.
        Message 3 of 14 , Jan 15, 2013
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          I did a similar, in locker, horizontal install on my S38. Included a stainless strike plate at the forward end of the locker, which includes a snubber. Included toe switches forward, rocker switch in cockpit. Had to learn about the clutch on a windlass, but has worked quite well with a combo of rope/chain.

          Now, just wish I had a pressure pump for a saltwater hose in the locker to hose off the gunk. Might think about that at the same time.

          --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Dave Lochner wrote:
          >
          > Here's links to the article Len mentions:
          >
          > http://www.cruisingworld.com/gear/smooth-sailing-while-installing-a-windlass
          >
          > http://www.cruisingworld.com/gallery/photos/windlass-installation
          >
          > Dave
          >
          >
          > On Jan 14, 2013, at 1:09 PM, walkabout193 wrote:
          >
          > > Here are two additional choices.
          > > Rather than split the anchor locker lid I have seen 38 mkII's where the windlass is installed behind the anchor locker. A chain pipe was installed to lead forward into the anchor locker. The motor and the chain pipe were concealed with a new 1x6 teak/cherry going port to starboard. Disadvantage here is that nylon rode won't feed well through the pipe.
          > > A few years back Cruising World ran a story on a S34 that installed a horizontal windlass in the anchor locker on a custom alum. bracket that was in turn secured to the aft bulkhead of the locker. The advantage here was the entire windlass was concealed once the locker hatch was shut. Same approach would work on all our boats. I think I might be able to locate and scan the article if you're interested.
          > >
          > > Len Bertaux
          > > Walkabout S38 MKII
          > >
          > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "ssfein" wrote:
          > > >
          > > > I want to install a windlass on my 38 mk 1 and am wondering what others have done. It would seem hard to get a vertical type to fit there being issues of motor in the v birth and rope fall. One option I saw on a saber 34 was to put a horizontal lewmar 1000 in the anchor locker on a custom bracket. My back says it is time
          > > > thanks
          > > >
          > >
          > >
          >
        • Jim Kevern
          A previous owner installed ours in our Sabre 38 MkII. It s a Maxwell vertical shaft with a horizontal motor (model 1200 if memory serves). The motor drives
          Message 4 of 14 , Jan 15, 2013
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            A previous owner installed ours in our Sabre 38 MkII. It's a Maxwell
            vertical shaft with a horizontal motor (model 1200 if memory serves).
            The motor drives the vertical shaft through a worm gear so it doesn't
            take up much space in the top corner of the V-berth. The unit mounts
            just aft of the anchor locker bulkhead, but the way the windlass is
            designed the chain feeds around the windlass and forward to drop through
            a hole in the deck forward of said bulkhead. This setup works quite
            well as the locker is deepest aft so there's plenty of room for 160 ft
            5/16 chain to pile up. I've thought about putting in a divider but
            haven't in 5 yrs gotten a round to it. The nylon secondary rode lives
            in a 5 gallon bucket that sits in the forward part of the locker. You'd
            figure it out - but you need holes in the bottom of the bucket for the
            inevitable water that makes it's way in to drain out.

            The motor and solenoids, etc. are hidden by a 1/4 inch cherry plywood
            box across the top forward corner of the b-verth which also serves as
            the mount for a fan. Note, the fan has an added on/off switch within
            reach of the aft end in the real hanging locker bulkhead.

            The only issue we've had was wet deck coring around the anchor locker
            found during the pre-purchase survey. It turns out the original
            installation of the motor itself was pretty good - the hole in the deck
            thoroughly sealed with epoxy. The hole for the chain was not as well
            done - just drilled and coated, so chain banging on it eventually
            compromised the epoxy. After drying out the coring I used a router to
            relieve a half inch of the core and filled the gap with thickened epoxy
            and it appears to be holding just fine. Survey a year ago found no
            moisture.

            Hope this helps.
            Jim
            S/V Ubiquitous
            S-38 MkII #206
          • Steven Fein
            A wash-down pump was one project from last year. Given how tight things are forward of the anchor locker hatch were you able to use a stock strike plate
            Message 5 of 14 , Jan 15, 2013
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              A wash-down pump was one project from last year. Given how tight
              things are forward of the anchor locker hatch were you able to use a
              stock strike plate snubber or did you have to customize something
            • Richard Peirce
              That s pretty much the way mine is installed. Works great and is nice and neat. The shelf on mine is made of a couple of layers of marine ply glassed in. If
              Message 6 of 14 , Jan 20, 2013
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                That's pretty much the way mine is installed. Works great and is nice and neat. 

                The shelf on mine is made of a couple of layers of marine ply glassed in. If you'd like pics, let me know. 

                r

                From the iPhone of:

                Richard Peirce
                S/V Hacienda II
                TH&SC   Toronto
                Sabre 34 mkII Targa

                On Jan 15, 2013, at 11:13 AM, Steven Fein <ssfein@...> wrote:

                 

                Thanks, I got a look at that article and that is the way I am going.
                Looks neat and keeps everything off the deck.

              • Richard Peirce
                Hey Steve. Here are a few shots of my windlass. The original owner had a manual windlass installed when I bought the boat. It wasn t working so I replaced it.
                Message 7 of 14 , Jan 22, 2013
                Hey Steve.

                Here are a few shots of my windlass. The original owner had a manual windlass installed when I bought the boat. It wasn't working so I replaced it. I doubled up the thickness of the shelf by adding 3/4" marine ply and glassed it in. I put the controller in the v-berth intending to put a teak box around it (which I've yet to do). Ran wiring to the batteries, etc, installed foot switches on the shelf (you can see them in the photos) as I just didn't want to cut holes in the deck. I also put in a toggle switch at the helm (in a navpod on the pedestal). The toggle is rarely used - sometimes if I'm single handing. I wouldn't bother with that if I were doing it again.

                It works quite well! Certainly enough power if you don't try to pull the boat to the anchor with the windlass. Let me know of you have any questions!

                r
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