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Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Traveler Replacement

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  • Peter Tollini
    They are 3 low profile from Mariners Hardwre, now defunct, made by Man Ship. The stainless mounting rings were an easy swap for the Martec plastic ones.
    Message 1 of 16 , Aug 1, 2011
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      They are 3" low profile from Mariners Hardwre, now defunct, made by Man Ship. The stainless mounting rings were an easy swap for the Martec plastic ones. Mariners would powder coat the insides in the color of your choice. I think Carter found another source for Man Ship products.
      Pete

      On Sun, Jul 31, 2011 at 11:19 PM, Ken Jenkins <kjenk3@...> wrote:
       

      Peter,

      Not to hijack the thread, but where did you get the dorade vents that are shown in the secont attached picture? They look great. I was looking at PVC vents, but those may be much better answer.

      Ken

       


      From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peter Tollini
      Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 3:36 PM
      To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Traveler Replacement [2 Attachments]

       

       

      Bob -

      Whether you go with Lewmar or Harken, you should go with the high rise sliding bolt track.  I used the Ocean Series 1 and mated the care to Schaefer 5-Series ball bearing mainsheet blocks. The mainsheet is NE Ropes Salsa braid in 3/8".  It's basically regata made of hi-tech fibers and ridiculously strong, but supple.  Traveler control lines are 3/8 Regatta braid.  Easy to handle, no kinks.  I replaced the traveller cleats with Harken cam cleats with fairleads.

      I've attached pictures of my Lewmar replacement, and a Harken mid-range setup on another 30 Mk III.

      Either way, the actual replacement job is the same.  You'll need to find someone with very skinny arms to handle the nuts under the spray hood.

      Pete

       


    • rdemayo
      Thanks Pete - A 3/8 control line will work. So did you use the 60mm or 72mm blocks on the Lewmar Oceans Series I? The way I read the specs., there is an
      Message 2 of 16 , Aug 1, 2011
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        Thanks Pete - A 3/8" control line will work. So did you use the 60mm or 72mm blocks on the Lewmar Oceans Series I? The way I read the specs., there is an option to go to larger 72mm blocks on the ends and the car.

        Bob D.
        Boston
        '93 30MkIII/#243


        --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
        >
        > Bob -
        > Whether you go with Lewmar or Harken, you should go with the high rise
        > sliding bolt track. I used the Ocean Series 1 and mated the care to
        > Schaefer 5-Series ball bearing mainsheet blocks. The mainsheet is NE Ropes
        > Salsa braid in 3/8". It's basically regata made of hi-tech fibers and
        > ridiculously strong, but supple. Traveler control lines are 3/8 Regatta
        > braid. Easy to handle, no kinks. I replaced the traveller cleats with
        > Harken cam cleats with fairleads.
        > I've attached pictures of my Lewmar replacement, and a Harken mid-range
        > setup on another 30 Mk III.
        > Either way, the actual replacement job is the same. You'll need to find
        > someone with very skinny arms to handle the nuts under the spray hood.
        > Pete
        >
        > On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 11:26 AM, rdemayo <rdemayo@...> wrote:
        >
        > > **
        > >
        > >
        > > My '93-30-3 Lewmar Solent (orignal) traveler has become so tight it's
        > > replacement is imminent. I thought I'd get one more season out of it but I'm
        > > motovated to do a mid-season upgrade.
        > >
        > > I've read with interest the details of the Lewmar Ocean Series upgrade
        > > issues you guys documented, and I have some questions:
        > >
        > > If I go with the L-Ocean I, the specs. indicate the largest control line
        > > for the 60mm blocks is 5/16". The 72mm blocks can go to 3/8". The existing
        > > control line is 7/16" and I'm not inclined to go smaller. Can anyone confirm
        > > the largrest line I can use with the 60mm or 72mm blocks? What are you
        > > using? With which Ocean Series, 1 or 2?
        > >
        > > The specs. also do not indicate the the high beam track will accomodate the
        > > sliding bolts, thereby a retrofit to all existing bolt hole locations. I
        > > read the installation notes here indicating the beam track is sliding bolt.
        > > Confirm?
        > >
        > > What bedding compound for the bolts and track? Suggestions?
        > >
        > > Thanks -
        > > Bob D.
        > > Boston
        > > '93 30MkIII/#243
        > >
        > >
        > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > Martin -
        > > > I've done it with a 1988 30 Mk III, a close cousin to the 34 Mk II. If
        > > you
        > > > have two raised platforms on either side of the companionway at each end
        > > of
        > > > the track and the track sits on the companionway cover, with gaps on
        > > either
        > > > side for lines, it's pretty similar. The 34 II photos seem to show that.
        > > > I spoke to Glen before I did the traveler upgrade and he confirmed that 4
        > > > bolts carry the load - the two on the platforms and one on either side of
        > > > the companionway. The bolts through the cover do not carry any of the
        > > > traveler load. If anything, the traveler track braces the companionway
        > > > cover. If you do the Harken or the Lewmar Ocean, you'll need to use the
        > > > high profile track because you are bridging the companionway. They both
        > > > offer a sliding bolt track that allows you to use the existing holes -
        > > > nice. Once you remove the hatch slide, you'll have access (of a sort) to
        > > > the nuts on the screws holding the Lewmar track to the cover. The long
        > > > bolts through the platforms are easier to get to, but they are a bear to
        > > > remove - just be prepared for that. Bring a maul and a drift pin.
        > > > Now for the hard part -
        > > > The nuts under the hood are miserable to get to. Since the old track uses
        > > > screws you just have get a wrench on the nut, then you can turn out the
        > > > screw from above. Not too bad, but no such luck on installing the
        > > > replacement track. You'll end up jury rigging tools to get the nuts
        > > > started, then tightened. If you have a small child with long, thin arms
        > > and
        > > > good dexterity, you could be ahead of the game.
        > > > On choosing the traveler - the Harken stuff is pricey, but elegant.
        > > > Garhauer is reasonably priced and bulletproof, but, well, sort of klunky.
        > > > They'll both work about the same, which is light years better than the
        > > old
        > > > Lewmar. I went with Lewmar's new Ocean Series - even sleeker than the
        > > > Harken, but not quite as efficient (plain bearing blocks on the ends).
        > > > Consider adding Harken cam cleads with multi-angle fairleads, since
        > > you'll
        > > > be using the new traveler all the time. I also upgraded the mainsheet
        > > blocks
        > > > to Schaefer ball bearing blocks at the same time and made up a mainsheet
        > > > from NE Ropes Salsa line. It runs and feels like Regatta braid, but has
        > > > lower stretch. In reality, Regatta would have been just fine. I used
        > > > Regatta for the traveler lines as well.
        > > >
        > > > Helpful tools - extra long handled box wrench to fit the nuts under the
        > > > hood. Duct tape one side of the box to hold the nut in place while you
        > > > start it. A piece of closet pole, cut on a shallow angle, to hold the box
        > > > wrench up to the nut with no hands. Goop to hold the fender washers up
        > > > while you start the nuts. Nylock nuts, rather than wrestling with lock
        > > > washers.
        > > > Drop cloths so whatever caulk you use under the track doesn't end up all
        > > > over the interior (one of the guys in the yard said "that s*** will walk
        > > a
        > > > mile on its own"). You may not be able to find stainless bolts long
        > > enough
        > > > for the platforms. If you can't, use stainless threaded rod and nuts, but
        > > > mushroom the upper end with a hammer.
        > > >
        > > > Lastly,actually firstly, test fit the bolts to make sure they are a) long
        > > > enough and b) not too long so they interfere with the hatch slide.
        > > >
        > > > After doing this, would I still recommend that you tackle the
        > > > upgrade? Absolutely.
        > > > Next you can upgrade the outhaul for when you go to a loose footed main
        > > :)
        > > >
        > > > Pete
        > > >
        > > > On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 6:24 PM, <mnthomas46@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > > Been thinking of replacing the original Lewmar traveller with a new one
        > > > > from Harken or Garhauer. If anyone has done that with their 34 II I'd
        > > like
        > > > > to know what to expect under the companionway slide hood etc.
        > > > >
        > > > > Martin
        > > > > Kokopelli s34II #291
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > > >
        > > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >
      • Peter Tollini
        Bob - I m not sure which control lines you mean. I used Lewmar s 29431412 car w/double sheave fittings,and 29471036 double sheave track ends, with beckets.
        Message 3 of 16 , Aug 1, 2011
        • 0 Attachment
          Bob -
          I'm not sure which control lines you mean. I used Lewmar's 29431412 car w/double sheave fittings,and 29471036 double sheave track ends, with beckets. Those are 40mm sheaves, but handle 3/8 line. Lewmar refers to the correct track as "beam" track.
          Pete

          On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 7:37 AM, rdemayo <rdemayo@...> wrote:
           

          Thanks Pete - A 3/8" control line will work. So did you use the 60mm or 72mm blocks on the Lewmar Oceans Series I? The way I read the specs., there is an option to go to larger 72mm blocks on the ends and the car.



          Bob D.
          Boston
          '93 30MkIII/#243

          --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
          >
          > Bob -
          > Whether you go with Lewmar or Harken, you should go with the high rise
          > sliding bolt track. I used the Ocean Series 1 and mated the care to
          > Schaefer 5-Series ball bearing mainsheet blocks. The mainsheet is NE Ropes
          > Salsa braid in 3/8". It's basically regata made of hi-tech fibers and
          > ridiculously strong, but supple. Traveler control lines are 3/8 Regatta
          > braid. Easy to handle, no kinks. I replaced the traveller cleats with
          > Harken cam cleats with fairleads.
          > I've attached pictures of my Lewmar replacement, and a Harken mid-range
          > setup on another 30 Mk III.
          > Either way, the actual replacement job is the same. You'll need to find
          > someone with very skinny arms to handle the nuts under the spray hood.
          > Pete
          >
          > On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 11:26 AM, rdemayo <rdemayo@...> wrote:
          >
          > > **
          > >
          > >
          > > My '93-30-3 Lewmar Solent (orignal) traveler has become so tight it's
          > > replacement is imminent. I thought I'd get one more season out of it but I'm
          > > motovated to do a mid-season upgrade.
          > >
          > > I've read with interest the details of the Lewmar Ocean Series upgrade
          > > issues you guys documented, and I have some questions:
          > >
          > > If I go with the L-Ocean I, the specs. indicate the largest control line
          > > for the 60mm blocks is 5/16". The 72mm blocks can go to 3/8". The existing
          > > control line is 7/16" and I'm not inclined to go smaller. Can anyone confirm
          > > the largrest line I can use with the 60mm or 72mm blocks? What are you
          > > using? With which Ocean Series, 1 or 2?
          > >
          > > The specs. also do not indicate the the high beam track will accomodate the
          > > sliding bolts, thereby a retrofit to all existing bolt hole locations. I
          > > read the installation notes here indicating the beam track is sliding bolt.
          > > Confirm?
          > >
          > > What bedding compound for the bolts and track? Suggestions?
          > >
          > > Thanks -
          > > Bob D.
          > > Boston
          > > '93 30MkIII/#243
          > >
          > >
          > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > Martin -
          > > > I've done it with a 1988 30 Mk III, a close cousin to the 34 Mk II. If
          > > you
          > > > have two raised platforms on either side of the companionway at each end
          > > of
          > > > the track and the track sits on the companionway cover, with gaps on
          > > either
          > > > side for lines, it's pretty similar. The 34 II photos seem to show that.
          > > > I spoke to Glen before I did the traveler upgrade and he confirmed that 4
          > > > bolts carry the load - the two on the platforms and one on either side of
          > > > the companionway. The bolts through the cover do not carry any of the
          > > > traveler load. If anything, the traveler track braces the companionway
          > > > cover. If you do the Harken or the Lewmar Ocean, you'll need to use the
          > > > high profile track because you are bridging the companionway. They both
          > > > offer a sliding bolt track that allows you to use the existing holes -
          > > > nice. Once you remove the hatch slide, you'll have access (of a sort) to
          > > > the nuts on the screws holding the Lewmar track to the cover. The long
          > > > bolts through the platforms are easier to get to, but they are a bear to
          > > > remove - just be prepared for that. Bring a maul and a drift pin.
          > > > Now for the hard part -
          > > > The nuts under the hood are miserable to get to. Since the old track uses
          > > > screws you just have get a wrench on the nut, then you can turn out the
          > > > screw from above. Not too bad, but no such luck on installing the
          > > > replacement track. You'll end up jury rigging tools to get the nuts
          > > > started, then tightened. If you have a small child with long, thin arms
          > > and
          > > > good dexterity, you could be ahead of the game.
          > > > On choosing the traveler - the Harken stuff is pricey, but elegant.
          > > > Garhauer is reasonably priced and bulletproof, but, well, sort of klunky.
          > > > They'll both work about the same, which is light years better than the
          > > old
          > > > Lewmar. I went with Lewmar's new Ocean Series - even sleeker than the
          > > > Harken, but not quite as efficient (plain bearing blocks on the ends).
          > > > Consider adding Harken cam cleads with multi-angle fairleads, since
          > > you'll
          > > > be using the new traveler all the time. I also upgraded the mainsheet
          > > blocks
          > > > to Schaefer ball bearing blocks at the same time and made up a mainsheet
          > > > from NE Ropes Salsa line. It runs and feels like Regatta braid, but has
          > > > lower stretch. In reality, Regatta would have been just fine. I used
          > > > Regatta for the traveler lines as well.
          > > >
          > > > Helpful tools - extra long handled box wrench to fit the nuts under the
          > > > hood. Duct tape one side of the box to hold the nut in place while you
          > > > start it. A piece of closet pole, cut on a shallow angle, to hold the box
          > > > wrench up to the nut with no hands. Goop to hold the fender washers up
          > > > while you start the nuts. Nylock nuts, rather than wrestling with lock
          > > > washers.
          > > > Drop cloths so whatever caulk you use under the track doesn't end up all
          > > > over the interior (one of the guys in the yard said "that s*** will walk
          > > a
          > > > mile on its own"). You may not be able to find stainless bolts long
          > > enough
          > > > for the platforms. If you can't, use stainless threaded rod and nuts, but
          > > > mushroom the upper end with a hammer.
          > > >
          > > > Lastly,actually firstly, test fit the bolts to make sure they are a) long
          > > > enough and b) not too long so they interfere with the hatch slide.
          > > >
          > > > After doing this, would I still recommend that you tackle the
          > > > upgrade? Absolutely.
          > > > Next you can upgrade the outhaul for when you go to a loose footed main
          > > :)
          > > >
          > > > Pete
          > > >
          > > > On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 6:24 PM, <mnthomas46@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > Been thinking of replacing the original Lewmar traveller with a new one
          > > > > from Harken or Garhauer. If anyone has done that with their 34 II I'd
          > > like
          > > > > to know what to expect under the companionway slide hood etc.
          > > > >
          > > > > Martin
          > > > > Kokopelli s34II #291
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >


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