Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: Mid deck hatch

Expand Messages
  • dleedvm
    Lee, In looking at the original instructions for the hatch addition, it sound like Sabre supplied a fiberglass insert that made that part of the deck level. It
    Message 1 of 7 , Oct 6, 2010
    • 0 Attachment
      Lee,
      In looking at the original instructions for the hatch addition, it sound like Sabre supplied a fiberglass insert that made that part of the deck level. It doesn't sound like that is available anymore. I've created one for scratch in the past, using a hardwood core and epoxy resin. It was not an easy job by any means. I might consider it down the road though. Please let me know what you find out!
      David
    • David Evans
      A friend came up with a clever way to make a level spot that I used for the windlass last spring. Instead of building a dam and pouring the epoxy in, I taped
      Message 2 of 7 , Oct 7, 2010
      • 0 Attachment
        A friend came up with a clever way to make a level spot that I used for
        the windlass last spring. Instead of building a dam and pouring the epoxy
        in, I taped the shape on the deck. Then slathered thickened West inside
        the area and lowered a piece of plywood with wax paper until all was
        level. Once the epoxy had firmed up, I edged the build-up with a plastic
        tool. There were some voids which were easily filled once the board was
        removed. The edges will ultimately need to be painted to protect the expoy
        from UV.
        dge

        > Lee,
        > In looking at the original instructions for the hatch addition, it sound
        > like Sabre supplied a fiberglass insert that made that part of the deck
        > level. It doesn't sound like that is available anymore. I've created one
        > for scratch in the past, using a hardwood core and epoxy resin. It was not
        > an easy job by any means. I might consider it down the road though. Please
        > let me know what you find out!
        > David
        >
        >
        >
      • dleedvm
        dge, If I m picturing this correctly - you basically wait for the mound of epoxy to start hardening and then shape it like clay, with a piece of plywood
        Message 3 of 7 , Oct 8, 2010
        • 0 Attachment
          dge,
          If I'm picturing this correctly - you basically wait for the mound of epoxy to start hardening and then shape it like clay, with a piece of plywood keeping the top flat. I guess I could see that for a small mount but I can't imagine doing it on a large scale or with a shape that is empty in the middle (the hatch). I've always made a wooden core that is shaped accordingly and the use glass mat and epoxy to cover it. Then I epoxy the whole thing into position (after grinding down the gel coat). I do paint it with polyurethane (actually, the best solution I've found is porch and floor paint, which they can color match to my aged gel coat and I spray on with a cheap disposable aerosol sprayer). Any other thoughts out there?
          David

          --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "David Evans" <dave@...> wrote:
          >
          > A friend came up with a clever way to make a level spot that I used for
          > the windlass last spring. Instead of building a dam and pouring the epoxy
          > in, I taped the shape on the deck. Then slathered thickened West inside
          > the area and lowered a piece of plywood with wax paper until all was
          > level. Once the epoxy had firmed up, I edged the build-up with a plastic
          > tool. There were some voids which were easily filled once the board was
          > removed. The edges will ultimately need to be painted to protect the expoy
          > from UV.
          > dge
          >
          > > Lee,
          > > In looking at the original instructions for the hatch addition, it sound
          > > like Sabre supplied a fiberglass insert that made that part of the deck
          > > level. It doesn't sound like that is available anymore. I've created one
          > > for scratch in the past, using a hardwood core and epoxy resin. It was not
          > > an easy job by any means. I might consider it down the road though. Please
          > > let me know what you find out!
          > > David
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >
        • David Evans
          David, No question a hatch is a bigger area to deal with than a windlass. Here s the start: http://images.sailonset.com/IMG_5156x750.jpg I already had the
          Message 4 of 7 , Oct 8, 2010
          • 0 Attachment
            David,
            No question a hatch is a bigger area to deal with than a windlass. Here's
            the start: http://images.sailonset.com/IMG_5156x750.jpg

            I already had the centers of the large-holes-to-come drilled out so had
            the dowels to guide the squisher down:
            http://images.sailonset.com/IMG_5158x750.jpg

            When done I cut the big holes: http://images.sailonset.com/IMG_5160x750.jpg

            A hatch you could cut the hole before or after. Certainly don't need epoxy
            anywhere but the edges where the flange will sit. The small one I
            installed only needed some goop to be flat enough:
            http://images.sailonset.com/IMG_0544x750.jpg

            The interior trim piece was a big help in making it a neat project:
            http://images.sailonset.com/IMG_0550x750.jpg

            dge




            > dge,
            > If I'm picturing this correctly - you basically wait for the mound of
            > epoxy to start hardening and then shape it like clay, with a piece of
            > plywood keeping the top flat. I guess I could see that for a small mount
            > but I can't imagine doing it on a large scale or with a shape that is
            > empty in the middle (the hatch). I've always made a wooden core that is
            > shaped accordingly and the use glass mat and epoxy to cover it. Then I
            > epoxy the whole thing into position (after grinding down the gel coat). I
            > do paint it with polyurethane (actually, the best solution I've found is
            > porch and floor paint, which they can color match to my aged gel coat and
            > I spray on with a cheap disposable aerosol sprayer). Any other thoughts
            > out there?
            > David
            >
            > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "David Evans" <dave@...> wrote:
            >>
            >> A friend came up with a clever way to make a level spot that I used for
            >> the windlass last spring. Instead of building a dam and pouring the
            >> epoxy
            >> in, I taped the shape on the deck. Then slathered thickened West inside
            >> the area and lowered a piece of plywood with wax paper until all was
            >> level. Once the epoxy had firmed up, I edged the build-up with a plastic
            >> tool. There were some voids which were easily filled once the board was
            >> removed. The edges will ultimately need to be painted to protect the
            >> expoy
            >> from UV.
            >> dge
            >>
            >> > Lee,
            >> > In looking at the original instructions for the hatch addition, it
            >> sound
            >> > like Sabre supplied a fiberglass insert that made that part of the
            >> deck
            >> > level. It doesn't sound like that is available anymore. I've created
            >> one
            >> > for scratch in the past, using a hardwood core and epoxy resin. It was
            >> not
            >> > an easy job by any means. I might consider it down the road though.
            >> Please
            >> > let me know what you find out!
            >> > David
            >> >
            >> >
            >> >
            >>
            >
            >
            >
          Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.