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Re: [SabreSailboat] Mid deck hatch

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  • R Coerse
    Lee, Here s the info on Bomar 100 series hatches: BOM 139S *Order #*Sort Direction
    Message 1 of 7 , Oct 6, 2010
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      Lee,
      Here's the info on Bomar 100 series hatches:

      BOM 139S
      <http://www.fisheriessupply.com/productdetail.aspx?iid=BOM%20139S&cid=17251>



      *Order #*Sort Direction














      *Mfg #*Sort Direction














      *Qty*














      *Cut-Out Size*Sort Direction


      *Outside Dimen.*Sort Direction

      02794




      BOM 139S
      <http://www.fisheriessupply.com/productdetail.aspx?iid=BOM%20139S&cid=17251>









      12-1⁄2" x 17-1⁄2" 15-1⁄2" x 20-1⁄2"



      jack horner wrote:
      > I'm thinking of adding a mid deck hatch. Bomar. the info I have says
      > use a( 139-S ) for my 28 Sabre. before I ask Bomar I should know how
      > wide the opening is and how long ! Can any one help . Thank you ! Lee/ fla
      >
      >
    • dleedvm
      Lee, In looking at the original instructions for the hatch addition, it sound like Sabre supplied a fiberglass insert that made that part of the deck level. It
      Message 2 of 7 , Oct 6, 2010
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        Lee,
        In looking at the original instructions for the hatch addition, it sound like Sabre supplied a fiberglass insert that made that part of the deck level. It doesn't sound like that is available anymore. I've created one for scratch in the past, using a hardwood core and epoxy resin. It was not an easy job by any means. I might consider it down the road though. Please let me know what you find out!
        David
      • David Evans
        A friend came up with a clever way to make a level spot that I used for the windlass last spring. Instead of building a dam and pouring the epoxy in, I taped
        Message 3 of 7 , Oct 7, 2010
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          A friend came up with a clever way to make a level spot that I used for
          the windlass last spring. Instead of building a dam and pouring the epoxy
          in, I taped the shape on the deck. Then slathered thickened West inside
          the area and lowered a piece of plywood with wax paper until all was
          level. Once the epoxy had firmed up, I edged the build-up with a plastic
          tool. There were some voids which were easily filled once the board was
          removed. The edges will ultimately need to be painted to protect the expoy
          from UV.
          dge

          > Lee,
          > In looking at the original instructions for the hatch addition, it sound
          > like Sabre supplied a fiberglass insert that made that part of the deck
          > level. It doesn't sound like that is available anymore. I've created one
          > for scratch in the past, using a hardwood core and epoxy resin. It was not
          > an easy job by any means. I might consider it down the road though. Please
          > let me know what you find out!
          > David
          >
          >
          >
        • dleedvm
          dge, If I m picturing this correctly - you basically wait for the mound of epoxy to start hardening and then shape it like clay, with a piece of plywood
          Message 4 of 7 , Oct 8, 2010
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            dge,
            If I'm picturing this correctly - you basically wait for the mound of epoxy to start hardening and then shape it like clay, with a piece of plywood keeping the top flat. I guess I could see that for a small mount but I can't imagine doing it on a large scale or with a shape that is empty in the middle (the hatch). I've always made a wooden core that is shaped accordingly and the use glass mat and epoxy to cover it. Then I epoxy the whole thing into position (after grinding down the gel coat). I do paint it with polyurethane (actually, the best solution I've found is porch and floor paint, which they can color match to my aged gel coat and I spray on with a cheap disposable aerosol sprayer). Any other thoughts out there?
            David

            --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "David Evans" <dave@...> wrote:
            >
            > A friend came up with a clever way to make a level spot that I used for
            > the windlass last spring. Instead of building a dam and pouring the epoxy
            > in, I taped the shape on the deck. Then slathered thickened West inside
            > the area and lowered a piece of plywood with wax paper until all was
            > level. Once the epoxy had firmed up, I edged the build-up with a plastic
            > tool. There were some voids which were easily filled once the board was
            > removed. The edges will ultimately need to be painted to protect the expoy
            > from UV.
            > dge
            >
            > > Lee,
            > > In looking at the original instructions for the hatch addition, it sound
            > > like Sabre supplied a fiberglass insert that made that part of the deck
            > > level. It doesn't sound like that is available anymore. I've created one
            > > for scratch in the past, using a hardwood core and epoxy resin. It was not
            > > an easy job by any means. I might consider it down the road though. Please
            > > let me know what you find out!
            > > David
            > >
            > >
            > >
            >
          • David Evans
            David, No question a hatch is a bigger area to deal with than a windlass. Here s the start: http://images.sailonset.com/IMG_5156x750.jpg I already had the
            Message 5 of 7 , Oct 8, 2010
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              David,
              No question a hatch is a bigger area to deal with than a windlass. Here's
              the start: http://images.sailonset.com/IMG_5156x750.jpg

              I already had the centers of the large-holes-to-come drilled out so had
              the dowels to guide the squisher down:
              http://images.sailonset.com/IMG_5158x750.jpg

              When done I cut the big holes: http://images.sailonset.com/IMG_5160x750.jpg

              A hatch you could cut the hole before or after. Certainly don't need epoxy
              anywhere but the edges where the flange will sit. The small one I
              installed only needed some goop to be flat enough:
              http://images.sailonset.com/IMG_0544x750.jpg

              The interior trim piece was a big help in making it a neat project:
              http://images.sailonset.com/IMG_0550x750.jpg

              dge




              > dge,
              > If I'm picturing this correctly - you basically wait for the mound of
              > epoxy to start hardening and then shape it like clay, with a piece of
              > plywood keeping the top flat. I guess I could see that for a small mount
              > but I can't imagine doing it on a large scale or with a shape that is
              > empty in the middle (the hatch). I've always made a wooden core that is
              > shaped accordingly and the use glass mat and epoxy to cover it. Then I
              > epoxy the whole thing into position (after grinding down the gel coat). I
              > do paint it with polyurethane (actually, the best solution I've found is
              > porch and floor paint, which they can color match to my aged gel coat and
              > I spray on with a cheap disposable aerosol sprayer). Any other thoughts
              > out there?
              > David
              >
              > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, "David Evans" <dave@...> wrote:
              >>
              >> A friend came up with a clever way to make a level spot that I used for
              >> the windlass last spring. Instead of building a dam and pouring the
              >> epoxy
              >> in, I taped the shape on the deck. Then slathered thickened West inside
              >> the area and lowered a piece of plywood with wax paper until all was
              >> level. Once the epoxy had firmed up, I edged the build-up with a plastic
              >> tool. There were some voids which were easily filled once the board was
              >> removed. The edges will ultimately need to be painted to protect the
              >> expoy
              >> from UV.
              >> dge
              >>
              >> > Lee,
              >> > In looking at the original instructions for the hatch addition, it
              >> sound
              >> > like Sabre supplied a fiberglass insert that made that part of the
              >> deck
              >> > level. It doesn't sound like that is available anymore. I've created
              >> one
              >> > for scratch in the past, using a hardwood core and epoxy resin. It was
              >> not
              >> > an easy job by any means. I might consider it down the road though.
              >> Please
              >> > let me know what you find out!
              >> > David
              >> >
              >> >
              >> >
              >>
              >
              >
              >
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