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Re: Traveler Replacement

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  • mnthomas46@gmail.com
    Pete and George, Much thanks for your invaluable sharing of insights gained the hard way. I will now take a very close look at my traveler set up and identify
    Message 1 of 16 , Apr 30, 2010
    • 0 Attachment
      Pete and George,
      Much thanks for your invaluable sharing of insights gained the hard way. I will now take a very close look at my traveler set up and identify the problem areas you mentionned. I did see that Garhauer has a unibody style traveler which is a lot less clunky than their earlier model. Fellow down the dock from me likes his.I know Garhauer will custom drill holes but that may not be a total solution if the hole angle cannot be duplicated. Much depends on whether the hole is at the bottom of the traveler where angle is not an issue or if the bolt goes through several inches of traveler body where angle would have to be perfet to mate with existing mounting holes.

      Again,Much thanks.

      Martin

      --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
      >
      > George -
      > Do you agree that it was worth the effort?
      > Pete
      >
      > On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 4:23 PM, george schlauch <outlaw34mk2@...>wrote:
      >
      > >
      > >
      > > Martin,
      > > Tackled this project last year on our 34II hull #346. Went with the
      > > Lewmar size 2 for a couple of reasons cost and the asthetics of keeping her
      > > all lewmar (harken is jet black and everything else on her is silver or
      > > gray) If you go to the series 2 which I recommend , the old one was a
      > > series 2 although my supplier said the smaller one would work. My main
      > > problem was the metric bolt head required for the sliding track forces you
      > > to go a much larger diameter bolt and if you notice the two bolts right next
      > > to the companionway don't have a lot of room to drill extra material away.
      > > I bought some 3/8 stainless bolts and a piece of flat stainless bar which I
      > > cut , drilled 3/8 holes in and had the bolt head welded to these squares
      > > which then I slid down the sliding track. Peter is right on finding the
      > > right length bolts offhand I don't remember the length but the two in the
      > > platforms are longer than the two alongside the companionway. Removing the
      > > old bolts are difficult but if have access to a impact driver they will
      > > thread all the way out. The short ones under the cover do require
      > > inventiveness, swear words, and everything else that Peter mentioned.
      > >
      > > George Schlauch
      > > Outlaw 34 MKII
      > >
      > >
      > > --- On *Wed, 4/28/10, Peter Tollini <pete@...>* wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > > From: Peter Tollini <pete@...>
      > > Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Traveler Replacement
      > > To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
      > > Date: Wednesday, April 28, 2010, 11:44 AM
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Martin -
      > > I've done it with a 1988 30 Mk III, a close cousin to the 34 Mk II. If
      > > you have two raised platforms on either side of the companionway at each end
      > > of the track and the track sits on the companionway cover, with gaps on
      > > either side for lines, it's pretty similar. The 34 II photos seem to show
      > > that.
      > > I spoke to Glen before I did the traveler upgrade and he confirmed that 4
      > > bolts carry the load - the two on the platforms and one on either side of
      > > the companionway. The bolts through the cover do not carry any of the
      > > traveler load. If anything, the traveler track braces the companionway
      > > cover. If you do the Harken or the Lewmar Ocean, you'll need to use the
      > > high profile track because you are bridging the companionway. They both
      > > offer a sliding bolt track that allows you to use the existing holes -
      > > nice. Once you remove the hatch slide, you'll have access (of a sort) to
      > > the nuts on the screws holding the Lewmar track to the cover. The long
      > > bolts through the platforms are easier to get to, but they are a bear to
      > > remove - just be prepared for that. Bring a maul and a drift pin.
      > > Now for the hard part -
      > > The nuts under the hood are miserable to get to. Since the old track uses
      > > screws you just have get a wrench on the nut, then you can turn out the
      > > screw from above. Not too bad, but no such luck on installing the
      > > replacement track. You'll end up jury rigging tools to get the nuts
      > > started, then tightened. If you have a small child with long, thin arms and
      > > good dexterity, you could be ahead of the game.
      > > On choosing the traveler - the Harken stuff is pricey, but elegant.
      > > Garhauer is reasonably priced and bulletproof, but, well, sort of klunky.
      > > They'll both work about the same, which is light years better than the old
      > > Lewmar. I went with Lewmar's new Ocean Series - even sleeker than the
      > > Harken, but not quite as efficient (plain bearing blocks on the ends).
      > > Consider adding Harken cam cleads with multi-angle fairleads, since you'll
      > > be using the new traveler all the time. I also upgraded the mainsheet blocks
      > > to Schaefer ball bearing blocks at the same time and made up a mainsheet
      > > from NE Ropes Salsa line. It runs and feels like Regatta braid, but has
      > > lower stretch. In reality, Regatta would have been just fine. I used
      > > Regatta for the traveler lines as well.
      > >
      > > Helpful tools - extra long handled box wrench to fit the nuts under the
      > > hood. Duct tape one side of the box to hold the nut in place while you
      > > start it. A piece of closet pole, cut on a shallow angle, to hold the box
      > > wrench up to the nut with no hands. Goop to hold the fender washers up
      > > while you start the nuts. Nylock nuts, rather than wrestling with lock
      > > washers.
      > > Drop cloths so whatever caulk you use under the track doesn't end up all
      > > over the interior (one of the guys in the yard said "that s*** will walk a
      > > mile on its own"). You may not be able to find stainless bolts long enough
      > > for the platforms. If you can't, use stainless threaded rod and nuts, but
      > > mushroom the upper end with a hammer.
      > >
      > > Lastly,actually firstly, test fit the bolts to make sure they are a) long
      > > enough and b) not too long so they interfere with the hatch slide.
      > >
      > > After doing this, would I still recommend that you tackle the
      > > upgrade? Absolutely.
      > > Next you can upgrade the outhaul for when you go to a loose footed main :)
      > >
      > > Pete
      > >
      > > On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 6:24 PM, <mnthomas46@gmail. com<http://mc/compose?to=mnthomas46@...>
      > > > wrote:
      > >
      > >>
      > >>
      > >> Been thinking of replacing the original Lewmar traveller with a new one
      > >> from Harken or Garhauer. If anyone has done that with their 34 II I'd like
      > >> to know what to expect under the companionway slide hood etc.
      > >>
      > >> Martin
      > >> Kokopelli s34II #291
      > >>
      > >>
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
    • jack horner
      I have the original traveler too and I have looked at all of them. The Garhauer folks are great, But I tend to not like the look of Catalina stuff on my Saber.
      Message 2 of 16 , May 1 6:51 AM
      • 0 Attachment
        I have the original traveler too and I have looked at all of them. The Garhauer folks are great, But I tend to not like the look of Catalina stuff on my Saber.  Its looks clunky and has a modern feel !  My wallet says yes and my brain says no way !
        Just the look of all the new lead blocks hollow centers with SS sides  just gives me a chill !!!
         Guess I'm caught on the 60"s  LEE



        From: "mnthomas46@..." <mnthomas46@...>
        To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Fri, April 30, 2010 8:59:31 PM
        Subject: [SabreSailboat] Re: Traveler Replacement

         


        Pete and George,
        Much thanks for your invaluable sharing of insights gained the hard way. I will now take a very close look at my traveler set up and identify the problem areas you mentionned. I did see that Garhauer has a unibody style traveler which is a lot less clunky than their earlier model. Fellow down the dock from me likes his.I know Garhauer will custom drill holes but that may not be a total solution if the hole angle cannot be duplicated. Much depends on whether the hole is at the bottom of the traveler where angle is not an issue or if the bolt goes through several inches of traveler body where angle would have to be perfet to mate with existing mounting holes.

        Again,Much thanks.

        Martin

        --- In Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
        >
        > George -
        > Do you agree that it was worth the effort?
        > Pete
        >
        > On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 4:23 PM, george schlauch <outlaw34mk2@ ...>wrote:
        >
        > >
        > >
        > > Martin,
        > > Tackled this project last year on our 34II hull #346. Went with the
        > > Lewmar size 2 for a couple of reasons cost and the asthetics of keeping her
        > > all lewmar (harken is jet black and everything else on her is silver or
        > > gray) If you go to the series 2 which I recommend , the old one was a
        > > series 2 although my supplier said the smaller one would work. My main
        > > problem was the metric bolt head required for the sliding track forces you
        > > to go a much larger diameter bolt and if you notice the two bolts right next
        > > to the companionway don't have a lot of room to drill extra material away.
        > > I bought some 3/8 stainless bolts and a piece of flat stainless bar which I
        > > cut , drilled 3/8 holes in and had the bolt head welded to these squares
        > > which then I slid down the sliding track. Peter is right on finding the
        > > right length bolts offhand I don't remember the length but the two in the
        > > platforms are longer than the two alongside the companionway. Removing the
        > > old bolts are difficult but if have access to a impact driver they will
        > > thread all the way out. The short ones under the cover do require
        > > inventiveness, swear words, and everything else that Peter mentioned.
        > >
        > > George Schlauch
        > > Outlaw 34 MKII
        > >
        > >
        > > --- On *Wed, 4/28/10, Peter Tollini <pete@...>* wrote:
        > >
        > >
        > > From: Peter Tollini <pete@...>
        > > Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Traveler Replacement
        > > To: Sabresailboat@ yahoogroups. com
        > > Date: Wednesday, April 28, 2010, 11:44 AM
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Martin -
        > > I've done it with a 1988 30 Mk III, a close cousin to the 34 Mk II. If
        > > you have two raised platforms on either side of the companionway at each end
        > > of the track and the track sits on the companionway cover, with gaps on
        > > either side for lines, it's pretty similar. The 34 II photos seem to show
        > > that.
        > > I spoke to Glen before I did the traveler upgrade and he confirmed that 4
        > > bolts carry the load - the two on the platforms and one on either side of
        > > the companionway. The bolts through the cover do not carry any of the
        > > traveler load. If anything, the traveler track braces the companionway
        > > cover. If you do the Harken or the Lewmar Ocean, you'll need to use the
        > > high profile track because you are bridging the companionway. They both
        > > offer a sliding bolt track that allows you to use the existing holes -
        > > nice. Once you remove the hatch slide, you'll have access (of a sort) to
        > > the nuts on the screws holding the Lewmar track to the cover. The long
        > > bolts through the platforms are easier to get to, but they are a bear to
        > > remove - just be prepared for that. Bring a maul and a drift pin.
        > > Now for the hard part -
        > > The nuts under the hood are miserable to get to. Since the old track uses
        > > screws you just have get a wrench on the nut, then you can turn out the
        > > screw from above. Not too bad, but no such luck on installing the
        > > replacement track. You'll end up jury rigging tools to get the nuts
        > > started, then tightened. If you have a small child with long, thin arms and
        > > good dexterity, you could be ahead of the game.
        > > On choosing the traveler - the Harken stuff is pricey, but elegant.
        > > Garhauer is reasonably priced and bulletproof, but, well, sort of klunky.
        > > They'll both work about the same, which is light years better than the old
        > > Lewmar. I went with Lewmar's new Ocean Series - even sleeker than the
        > > Harken, but not quite as efficient (plain bearing blocks on the ends).
        > > Consider adding Harken cam cleads with multi-angle fairleads, since you'll
        > > be using the new traveler all the time. I also upgraded the mainsheet blocks
        > > to Schaefer ball bearing blocks at the same time and made up a mainsheet
        > > from NE Ropes Salsa line. It runs and feels like Regatta braid, but has
        > > lower stretch. In reality, Regatta would have been just fine. I used
        > > Regatta for the traveler lines as well.
        > >
        > > Helpful tools - extra long handled box wrench to fit the nuts under the
        > > hood. Duct tape one side of the box to hold the nut in place while you
        > > start it. A piece of closet pole, cut on a shallow angle, to hold the box
        > > wrench up to the nut with no hands. Goop to hold the fender washers up
        > > while you start the nuts. Nylock nuts, rather than wrestling with lock
        > > washers.
        > > Drop cloths so whatever caulk you use under the track doesn't end up all
        > > over the interior (one of the guys in the yard said "that s*** will walk a
        > > mile on its own"). You may not be able to find stainless bolts long enough
        > > for the platforms. If you can't, use stainless threaded rod and nuts, but
        > > mushroom the upper end with a hammer.
        > >
        > > Lastly,actually firstly, test fit the bolts to make sure they are a) long
        > > enough and b) not too long so they interfere with the hatch slide.
        > >
        > > After doing this, would I still recommend that you tackle the
        > > upgrade? Absolutely.
        > > Next you can upgrade the outhaul for when you go to a loose footed main :)
        > >
        > > Pete
        > >
        > > On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 6:24 PM, <mnthomas46@ gmail. com<http://mc/compose? to=mnthomas46@ ...>
        > > > wrote:
        > >
        > >>
        > >>
        > >> Been thinking of replacing the original Lewmar traveller with a new one
        > >> from Harken or Garhauer. If anyone has done that with their 34 II I'd like
        > >> to know what to expect under the companionway slide hood etc.
        > >>
        > >> Martin
        > >> Kokopelli s34II #291
        > >>
        > >>
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >


      • rdemayo
        My 93-30-3 Lewmar Solent (orignal) traveler has become so tight it s replacement is imminent. I thought I d get one more season out of it but I m motovated to
        Message 3 of 16 , Jul 25, 2011
        • 0 Attachment
          My '93-30-3 Lewmar Solent (orignal) traveler has become so tight it's replacement is imminent. I thought I'd get one more season out of it but I'm motovated to do a mid-season upgrade.

          I've read with interest the details of the Lewmar Ocean Series upgrade issues you guys documented, and I have some questions:

          If I go with the L-Ocean I, the specs. indicate the largest control line for the 60mm blocks is 5/16". The 72mm blocks can go to 3/8". The existing control line is 7/16" and I'm not inclined to go smaller. Can anyone confirm the largrest line I can use with the 60mm or 72mm blocks? What are you using? With which Ocean Series, 1 or 2?

          The specs. also do not indicate the the high beam track will accomodate the sliding bolts, thereby a retrofit to all existing bolt hole locations. I read the installation notes here indicating the beam track is sliding bolt. Confirm?

          What bedding compound for the bolts and track? Suggestions?

          Thanks -
          Bob D.
          Boston
          '93 30MkIII/#243

          --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
          >
          > Martin -
          > I've done it with a 1988 30 Mk III, a close cousin to the 34 Mk II. If you
          > have two raised platforms on either side of the companionway at each end of
          > the track and the track sits on the companionway cover, with gaps on either
          > side for lines, it's pretty similar. The 34 II photos seem to show that.
          > I spoke to Glen before I did the traveler upgrade and he confirmed that 4
          > bolts carry the load - the two on the platforms and one on either side of
          > the companionway. The bolts through the cover do not carry any of the
          > traveler load. If anything, the traveler track braces the companionway
          > cover. If you do the Harken or the Lewmar Ocean, you'll need to use the
          > high profile track because you are bridging the companionway. They both
          > offer a sliding bolt track that allows you to use the existing holes -
          > nice. Once you remove the hatch slide, you'll have access (of a sort) to
          > the nuts on the screws holding the Lewmar track to the cover. The long
          > bolts through the platforms are easier to get to, but they are a bear to
          > remove - just be prepared for that. Bring a maul and a drift pin.
          > Now for the hard part -
          > The nuts under the hood are miserable to get to. Since the old track uses
          > screws you just have get a wrench on the nut, then you can turn out the
          > screw from above. Not too bad, but no such luck on installing the
          > replacement track. You'll end up jury rigging tools to get the nuts
          > started, then tightened. If you have a small child with long, thin arms and
          > good dexterity, you could be ahead of the game.
          > On choosing the traveler - the Harken stuff is pricey, but elegant.
          > Garhauer is reasonably priced and bulletproof, but, well, sort of klunky.
          > They'll both work about the same, which is light years better than the old
          > Lewmar. I went with Lewmar's new Ocean Series - even sleeker than the
          > Harken, but not quite as efficient (plain bearing blocks on the ends).
          > Consider adding Harken cam cleads with multi-angle fairleads, since you'll
          > be using the new traveler all the time. I also upgraded the mainsheet blocks
          > to Schaefer ball bearing blocks at the same time and made up a mainsheet
          > from NE Ropes Salsa line. It runs and feels like Regatta braid, but has
          > lower stretch. In reality, Regatta would have been just fine. I used
          > Regatta for the traveler lines as well.
          >
          > Helpful tools - extra long handled box wrench to fit the nuts under the
          > hood. Duct tape one side of the box to hold the nut in place while you
          > start it. A piece of closet pole, cut on a shallow angle, to hold the box
          > wrench up to the nut with no hands. Goop to hold the fender washers up
          > while you start the nuts. Nylock nuts, rather than wrestling with lock
          > washers.
          > Drop cloths so whatever caulk you use under the track doesn't end up all
          > over the interior (one of the guys in the yard said "that s*** will walk a
          > mile on its own"). You may not be able to find stainless bolts long enough
          > for the platforms. If you can't, use stainless threaded rod and nuts, but
          > mushroom the upper end with a hammer.
          >
          > Lastly,actually firstly, test fit the bolts to make sure they are a) long
          > enough and b) not too long so they interfere with the hatch slide.
          >
          > After doing this, would I still recommend that you tackle the
          > upgrade? Absolutely.
          > Next you can upgrade the outhaul for when you go to a loose footed main :)
          >
          > Pete
          >
          > On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 6:24 PM, <mnthomas46@...> wrote:
          >
          > >
          > >
          > > Been thinking of replacing the original Lewmar traveller with a new one
          > > from Harken or Garhauer. If anyone has done that with their 34 II I'd like
          > > to know what to expect under the companionway slide hood etc.
          > >
          > > Martin
          > > Kokopelli s34II #291
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >
        • Peter Tollini
          Bob - Whether you go with Lewmar or Harken, you should go with the high rise sliding bolt track. I used the Ocean Series 1 and mated the care to Schaefer
          Message 4 of 16 , Jul 31, 2011
          Bob -
          Whether you go with Lewmar or Harken, you should go with the high rise sliding bolt track.  I used the Ocean Series 1 and mated the care to Schaefer 5-Series ball bearing mainsheet blocks. The mainsheet is NE Ropes Salsa braid in 3/8".  It's basically regata made of hi-tech fibers and ridiculously strong, but supple.  Traveler control lines are 3/8 Regatta braid.  Easy to handle, no kinks.  I replaced the traveller cleats with Harken cam cleats with fairleads.
          I've attached pictures of my Lewmar replacement, and a Harken mid-range setup on another 30 Mk III.
          Either way, the actual replacement job is the same.  You'll need to find someone with very skinny arms to handle the nuts under the spray hood.
          Pete

          On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 11:26 AM, rdemayo <rdemayo@...> wrote:
           

          My '93-30-3 Lewmar Solent (orignal) traveler has become so tight it's replacement is imminent. I thought I'd get one more season out of it but I'm motovated to do a mid-season upgrade.

          I've read with interest the details of the Lewmar Ocean Series upgrade issues you guys documented, and I have some questions:

          If I go with the L-Ocean I, the specs. indicate the largest control line for the 60mm blocks is 5/16". The 72mm blocks can go to 3/8". The existing control line is 7/16" and I'm not inclined to go smaller. Can anyone confirm the largrest line I can use with the 60mm or 72mm blocks? What are you using? With which Ocean Series, 1 or 2?

          The specs. also do not indicate the the high beam track will accomodate the sliding bolts, thereby a retrofit to all existing bolt hole locations. I read the installation notes here indicating the beam track is sliding bolt. Confirm?

          What bedding compound for the bolts and track? Suggestions?

          Thanks -
          Bob D.
          Boston
          '93 30MkIII/#243



          --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
          >
          > Martin -
          > I've done it with a 1988 30 Mk III, a close cousin to the 34 Mk II. If you
          > have two raised platforms on either side of the companionway at each end of
          > the track and the track sits on the companionway cover, with gaps on either
          > side for lines, it's pretty similar. The 34 II photos seem to show that.
          > I spoke to Glen before I did the traveler upgrade and he confirmed that 4
          > bolts carry the load - the two on the platforms and one on either side of
          > the companionway. The bolts through the cover do not carry any of the
          > traveler load. If anything, the traveler track braces the companionway
          > cover. If you do the Harken or the Lewmar Ocean, you'll need to use the
          > high profile track because you are bridging the companionway. They both
          > offer a sliding bolt track that allows you to use the existing holes -
          > nice. Once you remove the hatch slide, you'll have access (of a sort) to
          > the nuts on the screws holding the Lewmar track to the cover. The long
          > bolts through the platforms are easier to get to, but they are a bear to
          > remove - just be prepared for that. Bring a maul and a drift pin.
          > Now for the hard part -
          > The nuts under the hood are miserable to get to. Since the old track uses
          > screws you just have get a wrench on the nut, then you can turn out the
          > screw from above. Not too bad, but no such luck on installing the
          > replacement track. You'll end up jury rigging tools to get the nuts
          > started, then tightened. If you have a small child with long, thin arms and
          > good dexterity, you could be ahead of the game.
          > On choosing the traveler - the Harken stuff is pricey, but elegant.
          > Garhauer is reasonably priced and bulletproof, but, well, sort of klunky.
          > They'll both work about the same, which is light years better than the old
          > Lewmar. I went with Lewmar's new Ocean Series - even sleeker than the
          > Harken, but not quite as efficient (plain bearing blocks on the ends).
          > Consider adding Harken cam cleads with multi-angle fairleads, since you'll
          > be using the new traveler all the time. I also upgraded the mainsheet blocks
          > to Schaefer ball bearing blocks at the same time and made up a mainsheet
          > from NE Ropes Salsa line. It runs and feels like Regatta braid, but has
          > lower stretch. In reality, Regatta would have been just fine. I used
          > Regatta for the traveler lines as well.
          >
          > Helpful tools - extra long handled box wrench to fit the nuts under the
          > hood. Duct tape one side of the box to hold the nut in place while you
          > start it. A piece of closet pole, cut on a shallow angle, to hold the box
          > wrench up to the nut with no hands. Goop to hold the fender washers up
          > while you start the nuts. Nylock nuts, rather than wrestling with lock
          > washers.
          > Drop cloths so whatever caulk you use under the track doesn't end up all
          > over the interior (one of the guys in the yard said "that s*** will walk a
          > mile on its own"). You may not be able to find stainless bolts long enough
          > for the platforms. If you can't, use stainless threaded rod and nuts, but
          > mushroom the upper end with a hammer.
          >
          > Lastly,actually firstly, test fit the bolts to make sure they are a) long
          > enough and b) not too long so they interfere with the hatch slide.
          >
          > After doing this, would I still recommend that you tackle the
          > upgrade? Absolutely.
          > Next you can upgrade the outhaul for when you go to a loose footed main :)
          >
          > Pete
          >
          > On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 6:24 PM, <mnthomas46@...> wrote:
          >
          > >
          > >
          > > Been thinking of replacing the original Lewmar traveller with a new one
          > > from Harken or Garhauer. If anyone has done that with their 34 II I'd like
          > > to know what to expect under the companionway slide hood etc.
          > >
          > > Martin
          > > Kokopelli s34II #291
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >


        • Ken Jenkins
          Peter, Not to hijack the thread, but where did you get the dorade vents that are shown in the secont attached picture? They look great. I was looking at PVC
          Message 5 of 16 , Jul 31, 2011
          • 0 Attachment

            Peter,

            Not to hijack the thread, but where did you get the dorade vents that are shown in the secont attached picture? They look great. I was looking at PVC vents, but those may be much better answer.

            Ken

             


            From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Peter Tollini
            Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 3:36 PM
            To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Traveler Replacement [2 Attachments]

             

             

            Bob -

            Whether you go with Lewmar or Harken, you should go with the high rise sliding bolt track.  I used the Ocean Series 1 and mated the care to Schaefer 5-Series ball bearing mainsheet blocks. The mainsheet is NE Ropes Salsa braid in 3/8".  It's basically regata made of hi-tech fibers and ridiculously strong, but supple.  Traveler control lines are 3/8 Regatta braid.  Easy to handle, no kinks.  I replaced the traveller cleats with Harken cam cleats with fairleads.

            I've attached pictures of my Lewmar replacement, and a Harken mid-range setup on another 30 Mk III.

            Either way, the actual replacement job is the same.  You'll need to find someone with very skinny arms to handle the nuts under the spray hood.

            Pete

             

          • Peter Tollini
            They are 3 low profile from Mariners Hardwre, now defunct, made by Man Ship. The stainless mounting rings were an easy swap for the Martec plastic ones.
            Message 6 of 16 , Aug 1, 2011
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              They are 3" low profile from Mariners Hardwre, now defunct, made by Man Ship. The stainless mounting rings were an easy swap for the Martec plastic ones. Mariners would powder coat the insides in the color of your choice. I think Carter found another source for Man Ship products.
              Pete

              On Sun, Jul 31, 2011 at 11:19 PM, Ken Jenkins <kjenk3@...> wrote:
               

              Peter,

              Not to hijack the thread, but where did you get the dorade vents that are shown in the secont attached picture? They look great. I was looking at PVC vents, but those may be much better answer.

              Ken

               


              From: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peter Tollini
              Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 3:36 PM
              To: Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Re: Traveler Replacement [2 Attachments]

               

               

              Bob -

              Whether you go with Lewmar or Harken, you should go with the high rise sliding bolt track.  I used the Ocean Series 1 and mated the care to Schaefer 5-Series ball bearing mainsheet blocks. The mainsheet is NE Ropes Salsa braid in 3/8".  It's basically regata made of hi-tech fibers and ridiculously strong, but supple.  Traveler control lines are 3/8 Regatta braid.  Easy to handle, no kinks.  I replaced the traveller cleats with Harken cam cleats with fairleads.

              I've attached pictures of my Lewmar replacement, and a Harken mid-range setup on another 30 Mk III.

              Either way, the actual replacement job is the same.  You'll need to find someone with very skinny arms to handle the nuts under the spray hood.

              Pete

               


            • rdemayo
              Thanks Pete - A 3/8 control line will work. So did you use the 60mm or 72mm blocks on the Lewmar Oceans Series I? The way I read the specs., there is an
              Message 7 of 16 , Aug 1, 2011
              • 0 Attachment
                Thanks Pete - A 3/8" control line will work. So did you use the 60mm or 72mm blocks on the Lewmar Oceans Series I? The way I read the specs., there is an option to go to larger 72mm blocks on the ends and the car.

                Bob D.
                Boston
                '93 30MkIII/#243


                --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
                >
                > Bob -
                > Whether you go with Lewmar or Harken, you should go with the high rise
                > sliding bolt track. I used the Ocean Series 1 and mated the care to
                > Schaefer 5-Series ball bearing mainsheet blocks. The mainsheet is NE Ropes
                > Salsa braid in 3/8". It's basically regata made of hi-tech fibers and
                > ridiculously strong, but supple. Traveler control lines are 3/8 Regatta
                > braid. Easy to handle, no kinks. I replaced the traveller cleats with
                > Harken cam cleats with fairleads.
                > I've attached pictures of my Lewmar replacement, and a Harken mid-range
                > setup on another 30 Mk III.
                > Either way, the actual replacement job is the same. You'll need to find
                > someone with very skinny arms to handle the nuts under the spray hood.
                > Pete
                >
                > On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 11:26 AM, rdemayo <rdemayo@...> wrote:
                >
                > > **
                > >
                > >
                > > My '93-30-3 Lewmar Solent (orignal) traveler has become so tight it's
                > > replacement is imminent. I thought I'd get one more season out of it but I'm
                > > motovated to do a mid-season upgrade.
                > >
                > > I've read with interest the details of the Lewmar Ocean Series upgrade
                > > issues you guys documented, and I have some questions:
                > >
                > > If I go with the L-Ocean I, the specs. indicate the largest control line
                > > for the 60mm blocks is 5/16". The 72mm blocks can go to 3/8". The existing
                > > control line is 7/16" and I'm not inclined to go smaller. Can anyone confirm
                > > the largrest line I can use with the 60mm or 72mm blocks? What are you
                > > using? With which Ocean Series, 1 or 2?
                > >
                > > The specs. also do not indicate the the high beam track will accomodate the
                > > sliding bolts, thereby a retrofit to all existing bolt hole locations. I
                > > read the installation notes here indicating the beam track is sliding bolt.
                > > Confirm?
                > >
                > > What bedding compound for the bolts and track? Suggestions?
                > >
                > > Thanks -
                > > Bob D.
                > > Boston
                > > '93 30MkIII/#243
                > >
                > >
                > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > > Martin -
                > > > I've done it with a 1988 30 Mk III, a close cousin to the 34 Mk II. If
                > > you
                > > > have two raised platforms on either side of the companionway at each end
                > > of
                > > > the track and the track sits on the companionway cover, with gaps on
                > > either
                > > > side for lines, it's pretty similar. The 34 II photos seem to show that.
                > > > I spoke to Glen before I did the traveler upgrade and he confirmed that 4
                > > > bolts carry the load - the two on the platforms and one on either side of
                > > > the companionway. The bolts through the cover do not carry any of the
                > > > traveler load. If anything, the traveler track braces the companionway
                > > > cover. If you do the Harken or the Lewmar Ocean, you'll need to use the
                > > > high profile track because you are bridging the companionway. They both
                > > > offer a sliding bolt track that allows you to use the existing holes -
                > > > nice. Once you remove the hatch slide, you'll have access (of a sort) to
                > > > the nuts on the screws holding the Lewmar track to the cover. The long
                > > > bolts through the platforms are easier to get to, but they are a bear to
                > > > remove - just be prepared for that. Bring a maul and a drift pin.
                > > > Now for the hard part -
                > > > The nuts under the hood are miserable to get to. Since the old track uses
                > > > screws you just have get a wrench on the nut, then you can turn out the
                > > > screw from above. Not too bad, but no such luck on installing the
                > > > replacement track. You'll end up jury rigging tools to get the nuts
                > > > started, then tightened. If you have a small child with long, thin arms
                > > and
                > > > good dexterity, you could be ahead of the game.
                > > > On choosing the traveler - the Harken stuff is pricey, but elegant.
                > > > Garhauer is reasonably priced and bulletproof, but, well, sort of klunky.
                > > > They'll both work about the same, which is light years better than the
                > > old
                > > > Lewmar. I went with Lewmar's new Ocean Series - even sleeker than the
                > > > Harken, but not quite as efficient (plain bearing blocks on the ends).
                > > > Consider adding Harken cam cleads with multi-angle fairleads, since
                > > you'll
                > > > be using the new traveler all the time. I also upgraded the mainsheet
                > > blocks
                > > > to Schaefer ball bearing blocks at the same time and made up a mainsheet
                > > > from NE Ropes Salsa line. It runs and feels like Regatta braid, but has
                > > > lower stretch. In reality, Regatta would have been just fine. I used
                > > > Regatta for the traveler lines as well.
                > > >
                > > > Helpful tools - extra long handled box wrench to fit the nuts under the
                > > > hood. Duct tape one side of the box to hold the nut in place while you
                > > > start it. A piece of closet pole, cut on a shallow angle, to hold the box
                > > > wrench up to the nut with no hands. Goop to hold the fender washers up
                > > > while you start the nuts. Nylock nuts, rather than wrestling with lock
                > > > washers.
                > > > Drop cloths so whatever caulk you use under the track doesn't end up all
                > > > over the interior (one of the guys in the yard said "that s*** will walk
                > > a
                > > > mile on its own"). You may not be able to find stainless bolts long
                > > enough
                > > > for the platforms. If you can't, use stainless threaded rod and nuts, but
                > > > mushroom the upper end with a hammer.
                > > >
                > > > Lastly,actually firstly, test fit the bolts to make sure they are a) long
                > > > enough and b) not too long so they interfere with the hatch slide.
                > > >
                > > > After doing this, would I still recommend that you tackle the
                > > > upgrade? Absolutely.
                > > > Next you can upgrade the outhaul for when you go to a loose footed main
                > > :)
                > > >
                > > > Pete
                > > >
                > > > On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 6:24 PM, <mnthomas46@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > > > Been thinking of replacing the original Lewmar traveller with a new one
                > > > > from Harken or Garhauer. If anyone has done that with their 34 II I'd
                > > like
                > > > > to know what to expect under the companionway slide hood etc.
                > > > >
                > > > > Martin
                > > > > Kokopelli s34II #291
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                >
              • Peter Tollini
                Bob - I m not sure which control lines you mean. I used Lewmar s 29431412 car w/double sheave fittings,and 29471036 double sheave track ends, with beckets.
                Message 8 of 16 , Aug 1, 2011
                • 0 Attachment
                  Bob -
                  I'm not sure which control lines you mean. I used Lewmar's 29431412 car w/double sheave fittings,and 29471036 double sheave track ends, with beckets. Those are 40mm sheaves, but handle 3/8 line. Lewmar refers to the correct track as "beam" track.
                  Pete

                  On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 7:37 AM, rdemayo <rdemayo@...> wrote:
                   

                  Thanks Pete - A 3/8" control line will work. So did you use the 60mm or 72mm blocks on the Lewmar Oceans Series I? The way I read the specs., there is an option to go to larger 72mm blocks on the ends and the car.



                  Bob D.
                  Boston
                  '93 30MkIII/#243

                  --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Bob -
                  > Whether you go with Lewmar or Harken, you should go with the high rise
                  > sliding bolt track. I used the Ocean Series 1 and mated the care to
                  > Schaefer 5-Series ball bearing mainsheet blocks. The mainsheet is NE Ropes
                  > Salsa braid in 3/8". It's basically regata made of hi-tech fibers and
                  > ridiculously strong, but supple. Traveler control lines are 3/8 Regatta
                  > braid. Easy to handle, no kinks. I replaced the traveller cleats with
                  > Harken cam cleats with fairleads.
                  > I've attached pictures of my Lewmar replacement, and a Harken mid-range
                  > setup on another 30 Mk III.
                  > Either way, the actual replacement job is the same. You'll need to find
                  > someone with very skinny arms to handle the nuts under the spray hood.
                  > Pete
                  >
                  > On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 11:26 AM, rdemayo <rdemayo@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > > **
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > My '93-30-3 Lewmar Solent (orignal) traveler has become so tight it's
                  > > replacement is imminent. I thought I'd get one more season out of it but I'm
                  > > motovated to do a mid-season upgrade.
                  > >
                  > > I've read with interest the details of the Lewmar Ocean Series upgrade
                  > > issues you guys documented, and I have some questions:
                  > >
                  > > If I go with the L-Ocean I, the specs. indicate the largest control line
                  > > for the 60mm blocks is 5/16". The 72mm blocks can go to 3/8". The existing
                  > > control line is 7/16" and I'm not inclined to go smaller. Can anyone confirm
                  > > the largrest line I can use with the 60mm or 72mm blocks? What are you
                  > > using? With which Ocean Series, 1 or 2?
                  > >
                  > > The specs. also do not indicate the the high beam track will accomodate the
                  > > sliding bolts, thereby a retrofit to all existing bolt hole locations. I
                  > > read the installation notes here indicating the beam track is sliding bolt.
                  > > Confirm?
                  > >
                  > > What bedding compound for the bolts and track? Suggestions?
                  > >
                  > > Thanks -
                  > > Bob D.
                  > > Boston
                  > > '93 30MkIII/#243
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > --- In Sabresailboat@yahoogroups.com, Peter Tollini <pete@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > > Martin -
                  > > > I've done it with a 1988 30 Mk III, a close cousin to the 34 Mk II. If
                  > > you
                  > > > have two raised platforms on either side of the companionway at each end
                  > > of
                  > > > the track and the track sits on the companionway cover, with gaps on
                  > > either
                  > > > side for lines, it's pretty similar. The 34 II photos seem to show that.
                  > > > I spoke to Glen before I did the traveler upgrade and he confirmed that 4
                  > > > bolts carry the load - the two on the platforms and one on either side of
                  > > > the companionway. The bolts through the cover do not carry any of the
                  > > > traveler load. If anything, the traveler track braces the companionway
                  > > > cover. If you do the Harken or the Lewmar Ocean, you'll need to use the
                  > > > high profile track because you are bridging the companionway. They both
                  > > > offer a sliding bolt track that allows you to use the existing holes -
                  > > > nice. Once you remove the hatch slide, you'll have access (of a sort) to
                  > > > the nuts on the screws holding the Lewmar track to the cover. The long
                  > > > bolts through the platforms are easier to get to, but they are a bear to
                  > > > remove - just be prepared for that. Bring a maul and a drift pin.
                  > > > Now for the hard part -
                  > > > The nuts under the hood are miserable to get to. Since the old track uses
                  > > > screws you just have get a wrench on the nut, then you can turn out the
                  > > > screw from above. Not too bad, but no such luck on installing the
                  > > > replacement track. You'll end up jury rigging tools to get the nuts
                  > > > started, then tightened. If you have a small child with long, thin arms
                  > > and
                  > > > good dexterity, you could be ahead of the game.
                  > > > On choosing the traveler - the Harken stuff is pricey, but elegant.
                  > > > Garhauer is reasonably priced and bulletproof, but, well, sort of klunky.
                  > > > They'll both work about the same, which is light years better than the
                  > > old
                  > > > Lewmar. I went with Lewmar's new Ocean Series - even sleeker than the
                  > > > Harken, but not quite as efficient (plain bearing blocks on the ends).
                  > > > Consider adding Harken cam cleads with multi-angle fairleads, since
                  > > you'll
                  > > > be using the new traveler all the time. I also upgraded the mainsheet
                  > > blocks
                  > > > to Schaefer ball bearing blocks at the same time and made up a mainsheet
                  > > > from NE Ropes Salsa line. It runs and feels like Regatta braid, but has
                  > > > lower stretch. In reality, Regatta would have been just fine. I used
                  > > > Regatta for the traveler lines as well.
                  > > >
                  > > > Helpful tools - extra long handled box wrench to fit the nuts under the
                  > > > hood. Duct tape one side of the box to hold the nut in place while you
                  > > > start it. A piece of closet pole, cut on a shallow angle, to hold the box
                  > > > wrench up to the nut with no hands. Goop to hold the fender washers up
                  > > > while you start the nuts. Nylock nuts, rather than wrestling with lock
                  > > > washers.
                  > > > Drop cloths so whatever caulk you use under the track doesn't end up all
                  > > > over the interior (one of the guys in the yard said "that s*** will walk
                  > > a
                  > > > mile on its own"). You may not be able to find stainless bolts long
                  > > enough
                  > > > for the platforms. If you can't, use stainless threaded rod and nuts, but
                  > > > mushroom the upper end with a hammer.
                  > > >
                  > > > Lastly,actually firstly, test fit the bolts to make sure they are a) long
                  > > > enough and b) not too long so they interfere with the hatch slide.
                  > > >
                  > > > After doing this, would I still recommend that you tackle the
                  > > > upgrade? Absolutely.
                  > > > Next you can upgrade the outhaul for when you go to a loose footed main
                  > > :)
                  > > >
                  > > > Pete
                  > > >
                  > > > On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 6:24 PM, <mnthomas46@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Been thinking of replacing the original Lewmar traveller with a new one
                  > > > > from Harken or Garhauer. If anyone has done that with their 34 II I'd
                  > > like
                  > > > > to know what to expect under the companionway slide hood etc.
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Martin
                  > > > > Kokopelli s34II #291
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  >


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